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I've been looking for a project for years and I'm finally in a position to build one. That being said, I've read up on the J Series motors for a few weeks now. There are few things I couldn't find solid answers to. That being said:
Looking to do j32 with j35 internals or j35 with j32 heads, intake, and TB for better flow and larger capacity to force air. I'll use aftermarket forged pistons to get the CR down to around 9.0 and a MDX crank for weight and strength.
j32 has iron/steel sleeves and j35 has the fibrous metal. Seems the majority of forged pistons don't work well with fibrous. Something about a metallurgic incompatability.
So, I'd like some more solid information about this. If the Iron will work with wiseco/JE pistons best, I'll go that route. If they'll work best with fibrous then I'll go that route.
Next, if the j32 already has iron/steel sleeves, wouldn't that be the best for higher levels of boost (15lbs+)? I've heard Fibrous are very strong, but the Darton's are cast iron. So, curious if there's any correlation.
Let me chime in here..
Most of us don't even think about boosting the J the price for the Custom Headers and Piping far exceeds the needs for most..
So there aren't any debates about being "Iron/Steel" vs "Fibrous Metal" here
The J32 and J35 Block are exactly the same in dimensions so you could by piece of mind just use the J32 Block/Heads and interchange the J35 Crank and Rods to make it a 3.XL.. If your using Aftermarket pistons its fairly easy then to clear the bigger J32 Valves which could become a problem with the stock MDX Pistons.
Thanks for the reply. I've read a lot about the combos... I just want the strongest and most compatible sleeve for the forged pistons.
I want the Type S head for better flow and I found a guy that builds a collector tube that fits on the stock headers into a single t3/t4 flange for $500. That's the same price for a turbo manifold for my 5.3 in my Avalanche. Figure it's a decent deal. The rest is just generic piping.
Found some info on a forging website about metallurgic compatability. Seems Aluminum on Aluminum is bad, but it mates well with Steel/iron. Fibrous pretty much borks up everything. So, if I use the aluminum pistons with the steel sleeves and OEM piston rings, I shouldn't run in to any pitting issues.
Awesome. Of all the reading I've done, no one mentions it. Maybe because it never comes up. I'll have to look it up, but I'm pretty sure the A3 is the MDX version with the forged crank. If so, that saves me a lot of work and time. Thank you.
Awesome. Of all the reading I've done, no one mentions it. Maybe because it never comes up. I'll have to look it up, but I'm pretty sure the A3 is the MDX version with the forged crank. If so, that saves me a lot of work and time. Thank you.
Yes, its the MDX block. All the J series cranks are built like tanks with 4 bolt mains
Let me chime in here..
Most of us don't even think about boosting the J the price for the Custom Headers and Piping far exceeds the needs for most..
So there aren't any debates about being "Iron/Steel" vs "Fibrous Metal" here
The J32 and J35 Block are exactly the same in dimensions so you could by piece of mind just use the J32 Block/Heads and interchange the J35 Crank and Rods to make it a 3.XL.. If your using Aftermarket pistons its fairly easy then to clear the bigger J32 Valves which could become a problem with the stock MDX Pistons.
While I might be wrong somewhere I believe its basically "it".. If anything Fatty should chime in too about it since he has build the 3.7L.
With any of these 3 builds are there any clearance issues or can you just throw these rotating assemblies in without modification? And also would I need to upgrade any stock components (oil pump, injectors, timing components, ect)?
what are your power end goals? There's a turbo J on another site (swapped car) that made over 700whp on a stock engine. If you keep the engine fairly simple than it's easy to swap in a new one if you have to.
what are your power end goals? There's a turbo J on another site (swapped car) that made over 700whp on a stock engine. If you keep the engine fairly simple than it's easy to swap in a new one if you have to.
Honestly just want a streetable car with 300-400 whp (basically)
I have a stock j32a2 already in a 2002 tl-s and all I want to know is can I change the stroke with 3.5 or 3.7 componentso without clearance problems (rods, or crank to the block)
the j35a3 rods pistons and crank? I feel like you're ignoring my original question ?
sorry I thought you were the original poster talking about a turbo build.
You can throw an entire J35A3 in there to get a 3.5L without having to tear anything apart. going 3.7 requires boring out the block and a lot more $ and work.
For a 3.7 conversion its posted earlier that a 3.7 crank works with 05-08 RL (J35A8) pistons/rods. You'll also need a spacer for the 3.7 crank.
IMO, for the money it costs to build a 3.7 motor, you might as well swap in a J35A3 & use the money saved for long tube headers
thanks! For the reply and opinion, so is a j32a2(block and heads)+j35a3( crank, rods, and pistons) the same as a just a j35a3 (stock) or would it be worth it to buy a j35a3 and throw my type s heads on there?
thanks! For the reply and opinion, so is a j32a2(block and heads)+j35a3( crank, rods, and pistons) the same as a just a j35a3 (stock) or would it be worth it to buy a j35a3 and throw my type s heads on there?
I explained the differences between the J32A2 and J35A3 in this thread on the CL forum.
I picked up my J35A3 for $250, way cheaper than you can swap a crank. You can swap heads or just swap the J32A2 cams and springs over(good time to up grade springs), this save some $$ because you will not need head gaskets and bolts. The J35A3 has 10:1 static compression which is better for FI, honestly for FI the J35A3 cams are adequate.
I picked up my J35A3 for $250, way cheaper than you can swap a crank. You can swap heads or just swap the J32A2 cams and springs over(good time to up grade springs), this save some $$ because you will not need head gaskets and bolts. The J35A3 has 10:1 static compression which is better for FI, honestly for FI the J35A3 cams are adequate.
Not really on the market for forced induction, I guess I'm just trying to fund the best way of reaching 300 whp with either an all motor build (if possible) or just going straight to forced induction if that makes sense? Whatever gonna be easier on my wallet, to include labor. I'm still pretty new to the game when it comes to mods of this caliber
Sorry to ask again I am a new member I have been reading these forms since i was 16 though. I am getting ready to build my j32 and I want to be 100% sure what I have in mind will work. J32a2 block and heads with J35a8 internals. would it be better to use the j35a3 crank and rods and the j35a8 pistons?
No, the J35A3 crank drops in with no modifications. If you already have a J32A2, you can swap in J35A3 crank and rods. If not, you can just buy an entire J35A3 and swap in the cams from the J32A2 (much much easier than taking the engine apart to swap the crank and rods).
Let me chime in here..
Most of us don't even think about boosting the J the price for the Custom Headers and Piping far exceeds the needs for most..
So there aren't any debates about being "Iron/Steel" vs "Fibrous Metal" here
The J32 and J35 Block are exactly the same in dimensions so you could by piece of mind just use the J32 Block/Heads and interchange the J35 Crank and Rods to make it a 3.XL.. If your using Aftermarket pistons its fairly easy then to clear the bigger J32 Valves which could become a problem with the stock MDX Pistons.
No, only a first-generation J-series crankshaft. The crankshaft you want is the J35A3, but as has been suggested numerous times in this thread, it is best to just get an entire J35A3.with good compression and swap the J32A2 camshafts into it.
To correct some information given elsewhere in this thread, no, J35A8 rods will not fit on a J37A1 crankshaft. The rod journal diameter is larger on the J37 crankshaft than the J32/J35.
I have been reading up on the J35 swap for my 2003 Tl Type-S. This is the first time I have seen anything like Skirmich's reply and would like to ask a question about it. Which one of these V J32 Block + J35 Crank/Rod = 3.5L with Higher Redline. J32 Block + J35 Crank/Rod + Milled down J32 Heads = 3.5L Type-S J32 Block/Head + J35 Crank/Rod + 3G TL Pistons = 3.6L Type-S J32/J35 Block + J32 Heads + J37 Crank + RL Pistons and Rods = 3.7L Type-S Ultimate Extravaganza..
is the best for a fledgling car enthusiast as myself? I personally like the idea of the 3.5L Type-S or 3.6L Type-S but do these add any noticeable gains and performance. Also which one would be cheaper in terms of labor, or could either one of them mostly be done at home before tuning and milling?
Your best bet would be to simply get a J35A3 and put it in; if you're going to crack the motor open, then you might as well get a J37 crank and rods and build a 3.6.
J32a handles up to 20 lbs safe.. that’s what the supercharged TL S boosted stock so I went off that and hasn’t blew up yet first j32a2 went to 42lbs and blew second J32a went to 30 lbs and blew and 20 has been safe at 600hp 540lbs of torque burns out the entire 1/4 mile and still hits135 mph
Just to be sure any j35 crank and rods will work right? J53A3, J35A8, J35Z2 etc.
Originally Posted by JarrettLauderdale
No, only a first-generation J-series crankshaft..
Bumping an old post, sorry... But what exactly is the difference in the 1st gen j35 and 2nd gen crankshafts that makes the j35a3 be the only one to use for 1st gen 3.5 strokers? journal size tolerances?
Kind of a loaded question, since I'm looking at a 2nd gen j35 crankshaft right now and it drops into a 1st gen block.
well since either no one knows or cares, I'll answer my own question. The crank from a newer j35, drops in and bolts down, but the snout is shorter. Even tho I had a 3G TLS before, I had forgotten about the ps differences, the timing gear difference is also pretty significant. Anyways presumably a j37 snout spacer can make up for those differences, I'll figure it out.
meanwhile, heres a pretty new block that i just built.
I'm using a P2R crank spacer for my J37 crank. I think I had to use one on the flywheel side too.
Hmmm... I did some keywords searches on the 2g side for j37, j36 and also skimmed through your build thread. Didn't see any specific mention on the flywheel side. But, had wondered about that too. Was it just like a small shim?
Sweet build! Did you put any sleeve retainer glue on so your retainers dont move? Do you plan to get the block decked because the sleeves move a little during the sleeve retainer install.
Sweet build! Did you put any sleeve retainer glue on so your retainers dont move? Do you plan to get the block decked because the sleeves move a little during the sleeve retainer install.
Thanks. No glue or decking planned. The block is brand new, block guards are Halferland's v2. They claim adhesive is not necessary. Pistons are their's too. Although, if I hadn't got them a while back I would've rather put Traum's. The build is mostly RL parts with a few updates/upgrades.
05-12-2015, 11:52 AM
Was it just like a small shim?
