junteschan

We all know that our oem front brake rotors are the least desirable due to their constant warpage.
Most of us already replaced them with aftermarket ones.
In a scale of 1 to 5, 5 being happiest, how happy are you?
Kindly describe the rotors...slotted & drilled ; dimpled & slotted;
slotted only; dimpled only & drilled only. This should help out as a quick reference. Many thanks.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

EBC Black dash Slotted rotors

Score: 1

Mine warped after approx. 6000 miles. My Yellow stuff pads also are at about 33% life. Doesnt make sense to me. Normal city driving. Professional install. Proper bed-in procedure. Still issues. Hope its not too late to contact EBC...

Switching to Brembo blanks as soon as I can.

kidduce

iTrader: (1)

Bought some brakemotive drilled and slotted rotors. Lasted about 1.5 years, fronts are now warped.
Rating of about 2.

01tl4tl

RacingBrake slotted 1 piece front rotors, ET300 pads for mom drives in town or ET500 for you get to have some backroads braking fun with it too
25kmiles on the 300 pads with extreme testing and abuse, took them down to 1mm!!
and no prob with rotor contact or wear- cleaned rotors with 120 grit and throw on new pads- go another 35-40kmiles expected from these
and the rotors will still be fine, clean and rebed

bonknhead

EBC dimpled and slotted rotors with EBC redstuff pads. Also installed SS brakelines at the same time, so it was a big change from the stock rotors/pads/brakelines. Love the setup. It works incredibly well for me in the soggy PNW. Definite 5 on the scale.

TheMegalodon

EBC 3GD dimpled and slotted rotors with Hawk HPS pads.
Self install, professional check, proper bed-in procedure. Had them for about 15k miles and they've been fantastic so far. Really strong, smooth braking, and in the mountains they held up really well with heavy braking.

4.5/5 only because the rotors make a noticeable but not annoying whooshing sound because of the design.

fsttyms1

EBC Green Stuff pads. 5
Rotora Slotted rotors. 5 (have had the rotors on for over 100k now and zero warping, quiet) Many lapping days.

junteschan

As I have earlier mentioned in another thread, I just installed my front one piece drilled only, rotors a few weeks back. Though it may still be premature to pass judgement on it, I would say that brake response is really great wet & dry with no amount of noise at all. I would rate it a partial 4 for now and maybe would reconsider an update review after this summer where long drives under CA heat should prove to be a challenge.

Rejckt

iTrader: (2)

I have the rotora 13inch front slotted/2pc (bbk) and rotora oem rears.
The fronts wear down way too fast and cost way too much.
I got maybe 1-2 years on the Rotors with 1 resurface.
Now it's time to replace the rotors since the slots are pretty much gone and it's $500 a pair.

fsttyms1

Gotta pay to play. BBK comes with that price Most BBKs come with fairly aggressive pads which will eat rotors faster.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Powerslot/STOPTECH slotted rotors and STOPTECH Performance Pads = Better performance, better quality, better brakes!!!

The slotted front rotor is also now a curved vane application. The rotor has a power alloy compound. And the hubs and vanes are coated black.

Edward'TLS

Rotora slotted rotors : 5

The first set warped in 30K km. I did the "multiple braking from high speed" breading procedures on this set.

The current set is at 60K km now, and is still good. For this set of rotors, I didn't do the above breading steps; but simply braked easy for the first 5K, just like regular new brakes.

fsttyms1

As far as im concerned and what was taught at a lapping day once you should never bed in new rotors. You should let them cycle at least 500 miles before bedding in the rotors. After switching to this procedure i have never warped a set of rotors.

bonknhead

EBC says for "Street Use Situations", bed in should start at ~200 miles for their Redstuff pads. It's a little different procedure for "Track/Race use".

01tl4tl

the purpose of the gentle use time is to temper/heat cycle the metal so it becomes harder and stronger

some companies (racingbrake for one) do a double tempering at the factory
So they want you to bed them aggressive right away, several times!!
warning: you need to use their brand pads with their rotor -the super hardness of the rotors eat hawks and others--personal experience and many reports

my rating on 1 to 5 for RB = 8-- for the cents it gives back after stopping on a dime

junteschan

Hello again 01tl4tl,
Did you mean to say that since you installed (when) your racingbrake slotted rotors, they have never warped or cracked ? Many thanks to your usual help again.

fsttyms1

Most of my mileage is HWY where i dont use the brakes as much and why i do 500 (just like every thing else new like clutch, trans motor i would break in) If you do lots of stop and go 200 city miles will probably be more than enough. One thing to remember is EBC uses a break in material on the pads thats coarser than normal pad material to season the rotor up a little.

For track use where you are basically going to get one day out of the pads bedding them in right away is fine. For street cars where you are going to have them on for 1+ years bedding them in should only be done After the rotors cycle a few hundred miles.

fsttyms1

I have had rotors that claimed that that were warped within 30 min of bedding in like that. I ALWAYS cycle them. It gives the pad and rotor to break in and mate, and also time to go thru some heat cycles.

fsttyms1

A quality rotor shouldnt crack, especially slotted. I havent warped a quality rotor yet. RB is a great rotor.

01tl4tl

my RB rotors are fine after doing some pretty aggressive bedding and braking test (smoke-smell-sparks!!! maybe a little pad fire?)
with both hps for 5kmiles, then ET300s ~25kmiles and back on the old hps till I get around to ordering new fronts- ET500 this time--
it seems the wife uses the brakes much harder than I thought,,a bit too familiar with vtec rpm~ other drivers should expect longer pad life

MrHeelToe has personal experience of 3+ sets of pads on RB rotors and still perfect,
clean off the old pad material, throw on new pads and rebed!
thats one of the reasons they pay for themself over time

sbuswell

I 2nd Racing Brakes rotors and pads. I have about 50k on the rotors and ET300 pads. The pads are just under half life. The rotors are in excellent condition still. I'm thinking about getting another set of rotors and pads just so I don't have to worry about stock issues or RB not offering brakes for 2G TL's. I give them a solid 5 out of 5. I could not be happier and feel more confident when braking.

VIP typ-S

I've had Stoptech drilled and slotted front and rear rotors with Centric ceramic pads front and rear on my TL-S for close to 70K miles. NO warpage , no noise and no brake dust. I have inspected the rotors for any cracks and found none. I would give both the rotors and pads a 5.

doneACCORDingly

iTrader: (4)

^^^ same here! 5!
On my Accord I have Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads all around with Goodridge lines, 4 for those.

hp1kw

Racingbrake one piece slotted rotor - Et300 pads, just switched to ET500 for the fronts. I would give it a 5. Just replaced my ET300s and the rotors are still fine. And I'm not very gentle with them.

I'd be a little wary of listening to a "vendor" on the site. Hopefully he has an Acura in addition to his Porsche.

01tl4tl

dont smack talk our awesome vendors = Josh- Excelerate- he runs a sports car repair/modding shop and the parts biz online in addition to it
MrHeelToe also races and test parts for shock makers and others

They are able to test anything they sell before it goes to market
Josh also worked closely with UR to keep making the stock size lightweight pulley- otherwise it would not exist!

MrHeelToe got RB to make the gen2 stuff!! and its a good seller for them
no wear issue on rotors- stock up on a few sets of pads for different conditions

get a set of `track day only` pads and take it to a high performance driving school/track day for real fun and learning

01tl4tl

note when changing pads- you should use 120 grit sandpaper to remove the old pad material from the rotor,,down to shiny bare metal
that allows for full transfer of new pad material to rotor for best grip and pad life

01tl4tl

for EBC users- did you see the `cut and paste` I did off the ebc main site -that describes the bedding process?

it calls for `average use` which they call `using brakes once every km or mile`
for 500 miles.. with medium effort braking-
and when possible, mix in a harder slow down during those miles
then go be ruthless on them

So its not just the miles but how many times you heat cycle the brakes with normal and agressive use

The key is to avoid ABS unless `emergency braking` causes it to activate during bed in.
that will hot spot the rotors so you have to start all over with cleaning and bedding them

gold2003tl (90)

^ i agree

For EBC brakes they require a much longer bed in period and multiple medium bed ins before the final bed in. especially for red stuff pads. they are very picky about bed in process.

i have EBC dimpled and slotted rotors and red stuff pads, these brakes have never let me down and continue to perform way past my expectations. Wet, dry, hot, cold, these brakes just keep on giving. They make a little noise, but thats a tiny price to pay. minimal dusting as well, almost non.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

UPDATE:

after posting in this thread i received a PM from tomf containing a massive amount of info on brake bed-in procedure, mostly originating from posts by 01tl4tl.

he recommended that i try to bed in the pads again even though i have already put 6000 miles on the setup. i figured id give it a shot. i followed the procedure given by 01tl4tl.

it actually made a difference! the squealing almost completely stopped and the pads feel like they bite a bit harder. the steering wheel still wobbles under light braking so im not sure if the rotors are actually warped. but overall, braking has improved.

my reassessed score: 3

Edward'TLS

If the steering wheel wobbles under light braking, your rotor(s) is/are warped. No amount of bed-in is gonna fix the warped rotor(s), other than having them turned (or machined).

brune55

I went with the Power Slot Cryo slotted rotors in the front and regular PS's in the rear with Axxis Ultimate kevlar/graphite pads out of Austrailia all around. i also found it a good idea to use high heat brake fluid if you brake hard or use car at the track. I had my stock calipers dismantled, cleaned and lubed with Permatex electrostatic grease to waterproof and so that the calipers will operate freely and evenly when applying brakes. She brakes nice and straight, evenly with no stuttering or uneven braking and/or wearing. I noticed very little or no braking dust at all on the wheels.

Edward'TLS

Axxis Ultimate pads are well known to emit lots of dark brake dust, even worse than OEM pads.

Some years back, 2G members had posted numerous pictures of how dirty their wheels could get, just 10 days after they washed their cars and cleaned their wheels.

In comparison, EBC green pads are a lot cleaner in comparison.

junteschan

Simply said those EBC rotors are warped after 6000 miles of normal use. I believe you should have them replaced under their product warranty. Lets give EBC a chance to back up their word and stay true to their warranty.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I'd be a little wary of listening to a "member" on the site who has a lack of experience. However, this is a thread about experiences. Our opinion was given based on years of ownership of numerous vehicles, including a 01 CL-S, 99 Accord 2.3 Turbo, 07 Civic Si Supercharger, 07 Porsche Cayman S, 09 GTi with GT28 Turbo, 03 GTi VR6 24V with a GJ Turbo and built motor, 11 Tundra 5.7, 97 A4 1.8T, etc etc

We know what works. You get what you pay for.

OP, if you have any questions I'd be happy to answer them.

Skirmich

EBC 3GDC Dimpled & Slotted + Yellow Stuff + Goodridge SS Lines +
(Recently Switched to DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid) on all 4 Wheels...

I Would Rate 4.9 out of 5 only cuz the wind noise they have I did now it at first glance and said "Meehhh not a problem" but then I realized it was Annoying so Not a Fault of them it was just Stupid me so, In Performance a Big big 5!!! I would never switch back to OEM Never..
I cannot justify doing a BBK since I dont do any track days so for DD and some fun now and then this just do it good to me. What i Will try is switching over 2 Piston Legend Calipers or if I can NSX 4 Piston.

brune55

I don't know what to say. I've had them on for a year now and have yet to experiance any of the problems to the degree that you and others had mentioned. I read the threads here before I make any decisions and/or purchases for my TL S. I guess I also care mostly about the safety, performance and longevity of the pad and rotor combo.
If I were getting a little dust on my wheels, I'd be more than willing to clean them for the peace of mind that the brakes give me knowing they will stop my car when I need them to.
Peace, no offence taken. Maybe I am one of the lucky ones.

fsttyms1

That was me. I tried 2 sets just to make sure and both were the worst pads i have ever driven. 2 aggressive stops and the fade was unbearable. They were garbage and you couldnt pay me to drive with them on a track again. EBC all the way. Less dust, much better bite and after initial fade from heat they just keep braking lap after lap. Last lapping day my front rotors were glowing red, the EBCs kept braking like nothing was wrong.

fsttyms1

NSX uses 2 piston

Morrissey25

iTrader: (4)

Subscribed for future reference

fsttyms1

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...xxis+ultimates

And this was 1 day after washing the wheels with the Axxis Ultimates (and i even had the rotors on reversed for slightly better pad life)