Drilled/ slotted rotors?
10-21-2007, 07:00 AM
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Drilled/ slotted rotors?
just wanna get some opinions from you guys
2002 acura tl.
what are the best rotors for the car....
i'd love to get drileed + slotted, but no one has them, so i guess its a good idea to get slotted for the front and drilled for the back? or all slotted?
any performance issues? since im gonna be driving in nyc/manhattan too, i think slotted is not the best idea, but drilled would help.... i definitely need the extra stopping power from the slotted brakes....
thanks
2002 acura tl.
what are the best rotors for the car....
i'd love to get drileed + slotted, but no one has them, so i guess its a good idea to get slotted for the front and drilled for the back? or all slotted?
any performance issues? since im gonna be driving in nyc/manhattan too, i think slotted is not the best idea, but drilled would help.... i definitely need the extra stopping power from the slotted brakes....
thanks
10-21-2007, 07:11 AM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...spagenameZWDVW
any ideas which ones are the best?
i've already got the Ultimate cross on my 2000 civic ex (stops in a heart beat).
thinkin i should get the track edition Absolute cross...so the brakes don't heat up since i will be driving the car on long hauls (1-2 hrs of stop n go)
any ideas which ones are the best?
i've already got the Ultimate cross on my 2000 civic ex (stops in a heart beat).
thinkin i should get the track edition Absolute cross...so the brakes don't heat up since i will be driving the car on long hauls (1-2 hrs of stop n go)
10-21-2007, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by datzdaboi
Check the blackmarket under sponser sales and group buys. Both excelerate and meheeltoe have drilled and slotted rotors for sale
i just want extreme stopping power and medium maintance...
10-21-2007, 09:54 AM
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first things first.
by removing brake surface (ie making slots and drilling holes) you are removing surface for the pads to grab onto to stop. Thus making you stop slower.
This is especially noticeable when traveling at slower speeds.
There are advantages to drilled/slotted rotors. You'll see these differences on the track. Or in the rare case you need to slam on your brakes on the highway.
the slots and holes are there to disperse the gases formed by your pads and to cool the brakes down quickly. Which in turn takes longer for your brake fluid to heat up, in turn taking longer for your brake lines from heating up and "sponging" (when they heat up, expand and the pedal goes further down but doesnt apply more brake pressure. Hence why they invented Stainless Steel lines.
Driving in the city its very hard to get your brakes to heat up to the point where the slots and holes will actually benefit you. I've had drilled and slotted rottors. They were a waste of money. plus they rust out very quickly. I changed them for Brembo blank rotors and the difference was night and day. The brembos stopped on a dime.
by removing brake surface (ie making slots and drilling holes) you are removing surface for the pads to grab onto to stop. Thus making you stop slower.
This is especially noticeable when traveling at slower speeds.
There are advantages to drilled/slotted rotors. You'll see these differences on the track. Or in the rare case you need to slam on your brakes on the highway.
the slots and holes are there to disperse the gases formed by your pads and to cool the brakes down quickly. Which in turn takes longer for your brake fluid to heat up, in turn taking longer for your brake lines from heating up and "sponging" (when they heat up, expand and the pedal goes further down but doesnt apply more brake pressure. Hence why they invented Stainless Steel lines.
Driving in the city its very hard to get your brakes to heat up to the point where the slots and holes will actually benefit you. I've had drilled and slotted rottors. They were a waste of money. plus they rust out very quickly. I changed them for Brembo blank rotors and the difference was night and day. The brembos stopped on a dime.
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10-21-2007, 11:59 AM
#9
Littlest Pirate
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i installed a nice set of sport brakes on my friends TL. ebay had them for 192$ before shipping and it was from a seller named "*rotorworks*"
http://cgi.ebay.com/99-03-ACURA-TL-F...QQcmdZViewItem
prices have gone up, but the parts are worth it. great braking for the price, but i dont think id do any serious racing with them
http://cgi.ebay.com/99-03-ACURA-TL-F...QQcmdZViewItem
prices have gone up, but the parts are worth it. great braking for the price, but i dont think id do any serious racing with them
10-21-2007, 02:15 PM
#11
I love my setup-
slotted rotors and the dual piston calipers in the front made a huge differance in the stopping power.
Less cost than BBK, and all the stopping power I personally can use in the TL.
Others may want more G-force, but the abilty to empty the seats of loose contents is plenty for me.
My car sees the road to Yosemite and track days too.
Its very easy to get the brakes hot in normal freeway traffic with its sudden slow downs from speed,
over and over with no cooling drive at cruise speed between uses
Just like dragging the brakes going downhill will overheat them- they like a little cool off air between uses
check our vendors for the quality stuff
good tech info here
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?board=tech_brakes
slotted rotors and the dual piston calipers in the front made a huge differance in the stopping power.
Less cost than BBK, and all the stopping power I personally can use in the TL.
Others may want more G-force, but the abilty to empty the seats of loose contents is plenty for me.
My car sees the road to Yosemite and track days too.
Its very easy to get the brakes hot in normal freeway traffic with its sudden slow downs from speed,
over and over with no cooling drive at cruise speed between uses
Just like dragging the brakes going downhill will overheat them- they like a little cool off air between uses
check our vendors for the quality stuff
good tech info here
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?board=tech_brakes
10-21-2007, 06:25 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by BIGTUFFGUY
first things first.
by removing brake surface (ie making slots and drilling holes) you are removing surface for the pads to grab onto to stop. Thus making you stop slower.
This is especially noticeable when traveling at slower speeds.
There are advantages to drilled/slotted rotors. You'll see these differences on the track. Or in the rare case you need to slam on your brakes on the highway.
the slots and holes are there to disperse the gases formed by your pads and to cool the brakes down quickly. Which in turn takes longer for your brake fluid to heat up, in turn taking longer for your brake lines from heating up and "sponging" (when they heat up, expand and the pedal goes further down but doesnt apply more brake pressure. Hence why they invented Stainless Steel lines.
Driving in the city its very hard to get your brakes to heat up to the point where the slots and holes will actually benefit you. I've had drilled and slotted rottors. They were a waste of money. plus they rust out very quickly. I changed them for Brembo blank rotors and the difference was night and day. The brembos stopped on a dime.
by removing brake surface (ie making slots and drilling holes) you are removing surface for the pads to grab onto to stop. Thus making you stop slower.
This is especially noticeable when traveling at slower speeds.
There are advantages to drilled/slotted rotors. You'll see these differences on the track. Or in the rare case you need to slam on your brakes on the highway.
the slots and holes are there to disperse the gases formed by your pads and to cool the brakes down quickly. Which in turn takes longer for your brake fluid to heat up, in turn taking longer for your brake lines from heating up and "sponging" (when they heat up, expand and the pedal goes further down but doesnt apply more brake pressure. Hence why they invented Stainless Steel lines.
Driving in the city its very hard to get your brakes to heat up to the point where the slots and holes will actually benefit you. I've had drilled and slotted rottors. They were a waste of money. plus they rust out very quickly. I changed them for Brembo blank rotors and the difference was night and day. The brembos stopped on a dime.
10-23-2007, 01:17 PM
#13
Originally Posted by BIGTUFFGUY
first things first.
by removing brake surface (ie making slots and drilling holes) you are removing surface for the pads to grab onto to stop. Thus making you stop slower.
This is especially noticeable when traveling at slower speeds.
There are advantages to drilled/slotted rotors. You'll see these differences on the track. Or in the rare case you need to slam on your brakes on the highway.
the slots and holes are there to disperse the gases formed by your pads and to cool the brakes down quickly. Which in turn takes longer for your brake fluid to heat up, in turn taking longer for your brake lines from heating up and "sponging" (when they heat up, expand and the pedal goes further down but doesnt apply more brake pressure. Hence why they invented Stainless Steel lines.
Driving in the city its very hard to get your brakes to heat up to the point where the slots and holes will actually benefit you. I've had drilled and slotted rottors. They were a waste of money. plus they rust out very quickly. I changed them for Brembo blank rotors and the difference was night and day. The brembos stopped on a dime.
by removing brake surface (ie making slots and drilling holes) you are removing surface for the pads to grab onto to stop. Thus making you stop slower.
This is especially noticeable when traveling at slower speeds.
There are advantages to drilled/slotted rotors. You'll see these differences on the track. Or in the rare case you need to slam on your brakes on the highway.
the slots and holes are there to disperse the gases formed by your pads and to cool the brakes down quickly. Which in turn takes longer for your brake fluid to heat up, in turn taking longer for your brake lines from heating up and "sponging" (when they heat up, expand and the pedal goes further down but doesnt apply more brake pressure. Hence why they invented Stainless Steel lines.
Driving in the city its very hard to get your brakes to heat up to the point where the slots and holes will actually benefit you. I've had drilled and slotted rottors. They were a waste of money. plus they rust out very quickly. I changed them for Brembo blank rotors and the difference was night and day. The brembos stopped on a dime.
10-23-2007, 02:16 PM
#14
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Excelerate
Brake surface primarily has to do with the diameter of the disc and how much of the pad makes contact with it. Drilling the disc or slotting it does not cause it to have less surface area and stop slower. The pad is still making contact on the entire area. Now it is allowed to dissipate heat better to help prevent warping and also prevent glazing of the pads through the use of slots. It will not cause you to stop slower.
Slots will allow better stopping due to the degassing
10-23-2007, 04:26 PM
#15
Lead Footed
Drilled & slotted are reported to be weaker because you are removing structual strength by drilling holes through the rotor.
Sloted are a good upgrade from plain rotors, as some have noted above.
My personal choice is the diamond slotted rotor. Not sure if Excelerate can get these for us, but here is a link with more info.
http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml
Ruf
10-23-2007, 05:59 PM
#16
Some rotors are designed at the factory CAD level to be drilled
so the structure is not affected
Rotors found online that say- hand drawn and transferred- uuuuum no thanks dude with rented CNC machine
Supercars use drilled to reduce weight of a 17 inch rotor, and it doesnt break.
Rotora does that type design work and so does RacingBrake
Support our vendors- they offer excellent products that LAST
Buy cheap-you get what you pay for
so the structure is not affected
Rotors found online that say- hand drawn and transferred- uuuuum no thanks dude with rented CNC machine
Supercars use drilled to reduce weight of a 17 inch rotor, and it doesnt break.
Rotora does that type design work and so does RacingBrake
Support our vendors- they offer excellent products that LAST
Buy cheap-you get what you pay for
10-23-2007, 08:30 PM
#17
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I use to belong to this site, and they are 100% car info, nothing but the facts and they have some great articles. I suggest reading most if not all of them.
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=921
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=921
10-29-2007, 09:22 PM
#18
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I got Drilled and Slotted in the front, Slotted in the back... I strongly recommend NOT purchasing brakes from eBay. I am happy with the brakes I recieved from Excelerate.
10-30-2007, 06:08 PM
#20
2003 TL-S A-SPEC
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Originally Posted by Excelerate
Brake surface primarily has to do with the diameter of the disc and how much of the pad makes contact with it. Drilling the disc or slotting it does not cause it to have less surface area and stop slower. The pad is still making contact on the entire area. Now it is allowed to dissipate heat better to help prevent warping and also prevent glazing of the pads through the use of slots. It will not cause you to stop slower.
Under normal driving, stop sign to stop sign you are not superheating your brakes.
For that simple reason, by removing surface you are going to stop slower.
I am in no way saying slotted/ drilled rotors are bad. We see them on the fastest cars that have the most engineering money thrown at them. Those cars also have much bigger rotors with more pistons that will be able to in turn bite into a larger area and stop the car quicker even at slower speeds. They will also benefit the car in extreme braking situations.
For our cars that come equipped with small rotors we do not benefit from decreasing surface in everyday situations. If you are going to track the car, by all means upgrade the brakes with slotted/drilled rotors. Otherwise blank rotors with good pads will stop better.
i've had both, i'm talking from experience. believe or not it doesn't matter to me.
11-02-2007, 10:47 AM
#21
I have a 2002 TL-S and found drilled and slotted rotors from Stoptech. I installed them with ceramic pads and there working great. No fade from several freeway stops....
I paid $250.00 a pair for frts $200.00 a pair for rears.
The BEST thing I did was flush the brake fluid. I'm running RBF600 Motul brake fluid.
Legend frt calipers are next....
I paid $250.00 a pair for frts $200.00 a pair for rears.
The BEST thing I did was flush the brake fluid. I'm running RBF600 Motul brake fluid.
Legend frt calipers are next....
12-29-2007, 04:19 PM
#22
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by ChrisQ1980
I use to belong to this site, and they are 100% car info, nothing but the facts and they have some great articles. I suggest reading most if not all of them.
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=921
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=921
Wow, good read, lots of good info in there. Thanks for the link
12-31-2007, 12:14 PM
#23
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I just got PowerSlot (non-cryo) front and rear with Hawk pads. I'm waiting for my Stainless Steel brakelines to be shipped before I tackle the project. I will also be replacing all brake fluid with new. I'll let you know how they turn out.
Any tips on bleeding (other than that on the forum) that I need to be aware of?
Any help is appreciated, to make my project go as smooth as possible.
Any tips on bleeding (other than that on the forum) that I need to be aware of?
Any help is appreciated, to make my project go as smooth as possible.
12-31-2007, 12:49 PM
#24
The center clip where the line connects is also its bracket and connection- look closely before breaking anything- get the line connection loose while still mounted- then wiggle/ pull the slide in clip out. Watch out for draining brake fluid- have catch pan and be ready to add to master cylinder constantly if needed. Dont let the master run dry
I let fluid run thru the line to clean it before attaching to the caliper.
LF=left front driver front
LF RF RR LR
bleed them twice after replacing lines to be sure- then drive- if possible do 2 abs stops from 45 mph- if pedal gets firmer on 2nd stop- bleed brakes again'
Do not do abs stops on brand new brake and rotors though
Catch-22 !!!!
I let fluid run thru the line to clean it before attaching to the caliper.
LF=left front driver front
LF RF RR LR
bleed them twice after replacing lines to be sure- then drive- if possible do 2 abs stops from 45 mph- if pedal gets firmer on 2nd stop- bleed brakes again'
Do not do abs stops on brand new brake and rotors though
Catch-22 !!!!
12-31-2007, 07:38 PM
#26
depends on the rotors- If the maker has an in-house pad like RacingBrake or Rotora does, use their design
I like my RacingBrake ET300 pads and believe they will work well on any rotor
I like my RacingBrake ET300 pads and believe they will work well on any rotor
01-15-2008, 09:22 PM
#28
Brake Fluid
I just bought new slotted rotors and pads but my boy who owns an Evo MR told me to buy racing brake fluid from the Z1 performance website , I think it is 15 dollars a bottle. The color is blue but i was thinking go with the regular brakew fluid. So I need some opinions since you guys got aftermerket brakes what should I go with?
Calipers
01-16-2008, 02:21 AM
#30
Many of us use Valvoline Synthetic DOT4 fluid 6 bucks
Racer types use the Motul Blue
Are you wanting to swap in brembos onto a standard caliper TL?
Racer types use the Motul Blue
Are you wanting to swap in brembos onto a standard caliper TL?
01-16-2008, 08:57 PM
#31
And I could get this brake fluid any auto discount stores ?. Yeh I just want to know if its possible to swap the calipers from 04 to 03 (if its possibel ) just curious.
01-16-2008, 09:45 PM
#32
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by TL260PLS
And I could get this brake fluid any auto discount stores ?. Yeh I just want to know if its possible to swap the calipers from 04 to 03 (if its possibel ) just curious.
01-17-2008, 11:43 AM
#33
I will have 2 pr of front NSX calipers on the blackmarket soon. They bolt right up and you can use your pads with them.
RBF 600 Motul brake fluid is the BEST !
Flush whole system once every 2 years.
RBF 600 Motul brake fluid is the BEST !
Flush whole system once every 2 years.
01-17-2008, 11:51 AM
#34
VIP
Measure the piston diameters when you remove the calipers
Becasue we run them on opposite side of the car than designed- to put the bleeder at the top,
Each year and model had different piston sizes between the 2 pistons
For use on a TL- we need as close together in size as possible
Measure the piston diameters when you remove the calipers
Becasue we run them on opposite side of the car than designed- to put the bleeder at the top,
Each year and model had different piston sizes between the 2 pistons
For use on a TL- we need as close together in size as possible
01-18-2008, 08:07 AM
#35
The ones that are going on my 2002 TL-S right now are 40mm and 38mm. The 2 other pair I have are 40mm and 36mm , I think. I'll try to measure this weekend. When they go on the blackmarket I'll have the numbers listed with them with photos.
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