DIY: Seafoam 2nd GEN TL (sorta) work in progress
07-07-2008, 06:26 AM
#282
Make Nice, Not Rice
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I was getting an opinion from a friend of mine, makes sense. Just wanted to see what you guys have to say about it:
"Oh god, seafoam is some bad stuff. I had like five bottles of the stuff and never used it, I gave away 3 already. You can take the two left...if you really really wanna go through with it. But seriously...before I use the stuff...I'd put 2 bullets in my motor then I'd be willing to even consider having a ounce of the stuff in the crankcase or wherever else you are planning to use it."
In my response, I replied:
how is it bad stuff? it's all over acurazine, bmw, and lexus.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...3&page=1&pp=40
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=seafoam
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
but correct me if i'm wrong, I asked if their were ANY cons, and a trusted member of azine with over 10,000 post said no.
He responds back:
Haha of course it's eveywhere. Gas prices lookin' like this everybody will give anything on the shelves a thought. High post counts don't mean they're professionals. There are tons of threads on a forum, those posts could've came from anywhere...for all you know he hangs out in "Off Topic" thread section more often.
You should read up on the stuff with solid data instead of reading a bunch of opinions, it's your car...not theirs.
Make sure you use the right amount or you fry ignition coils...and if you do plan on using the whole bottle then get someone to check your spark plugs after you do it (cause depending on how much gunk and how much you use...you might foul up the plugs). Gotta change the oil and filter too right after (if you're doing crankcase too).
It's just a really strong solvent. Plastics get eaten up like nothing if the solvent is strong enough, fuel injectors' most important part (the tip where the fuel sprays out of course) are made out of plastic.
hmm, now i'm having seconds thoughts, help guys!
"Oh god, seafoam is some bad stuff. I had like five bottles of the stuff and never used it, I gave away 3 already. You can take the two left...if you really really wanna go through with it. But seriously...before I use the stuff...I'd put 2 bullets in my motor then I'd be willing to even consider having a ounce of the stuff in the crankcase or wherever else you are planning to use it."
In my response, I replied:
how is it bad stuff? it's all over acurazine, bmw, and lexus.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...3&page=1&pp=40
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=seafoam
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
but correct me if i'm wrong, I asked if their were ANY cons, and a trusted member of azine with over 10,000 post said no.
He responds back:
Haha of course it's eveywhere. Gas prices lookin' like this everybody will give anything on the shelves a thought. High post counts don't mean they're professionals. There are tons of threads on a forum, those posts could've came from anywhere...for all you know he hangs out in "Off Topic" thread section more often.
You should read up on the stuff with solid data instead of reading a bunch of opinions, it's your car...not theirs.
Make sure you use the right amount or you fry ignition coils...and if you do plan on using the whole bottle then get someone to check your spark plugs after you do it (cause depending on how much gunk and how much you use...you might foul up the plugs). Gotta change the oil and filter too right after (if you're doing crankcase too).
It's just a really strong solvent. Plastics get eaten up like nothing if the solvent is strong enough, fuel injectors' most important part (the tip where the fuel sprays out of course) are made out of plastic.
hmm, now i'm having seconds thoughts, help guys!
07-07-2008, 09:11 AM
#283
Your friend is severly under or misinformed on the subject AS it relates to acura TL
I was a pro tech for decades- ran a shop- been around speed vehicles all my life.
Most of my time here is spent in gen2 or 3, but I do have 3 green boxes in Off Topic, reputation points - for whatever that means
At the shop we had a machine for doing this cleaning procedure back in the 80s- originally marketed to BMW owners by bmw owner magazines- then evertyone caught on to the benefits of clean valves and pistons- what a concept~
Turns out whats in the special cleaning machine---its seafoam-
they put in the 1 gallon of gas! Read the can!!
It is NOT a SOLVENT- thats what sets it apart, and makes it a favorite among ziners and millions of others-
It IS `hi-detergent oils`- thats not going to hurt anything- and because we do a hot foot drive afterwards, there is no crud left on the spark plugs~~
If you have over 60-70k miles already - its time to replace the plugs for max performance based on that age, yes,,, they will last to 105, but not at peak performance anymore-
Less efficient spark = more unburned fuel for the cat to handle- Less torque generated by weak firing impules causes you to push harder on pedal to make car go - makes even more gas go to engine.... mileage suffers
You change the spark plugs a few days or a week after seafoam- let it do its thing and be cleared out- then replace plugs if you want
It does not eat the TL plugs as if they were some dollar specials. We have trick hi-energy ignitions and special type plugs that cost 7 bucks each! NGK Iridium suggested by many
The one thing your buddy got right- gas cost more every day!!!!!!!!!!!
Seafoam's been on the market for 50+ years- thats a pretty solid reputation- and a money-back guarantee, that my parts stores all say, no one has ever asked for!
The aerosol can makes it very easy to clean the all important TB butterfly plate- forget that and 1/2 the job is left undone
Plus for the noobs- trying to figure out how to hold a can or bottle of liquid while raising it to a hose- a funky sized hose you may have to buy a foot of unless you keep a stock of extra parts in the garage--
So, for the vac port method, I am really liking the Deep Creep aerosol can with straw.
Its fun to spray small squirts and dribbles from the straw towards the vac port- you can be an inch away and it turns it into a tornado and sucks into the manifold~
The liquid Seafoam is for the gas tank- use qty:1, 16 ounce can in 1/2 a tank of gas.
Thats a super cleaning dose of 2 oz per gal of fuel- repeat in 5000 miles. Wont hurt the injectors or any other parts. Use can in full tank for maitenance dose for trips 1 oz per 1 gallon for general cleanup.
Use Tier 1 name brand gasoline as well- makes a differance to the TL
Repeat vac port method once a year or 15k miles whichever is first.
The longest term user of foam here that I know of--- is fsttyms1--
(thats==fast times WON!)
he put over 200,000 miles on his 00 engine and pulled it apart for inspection- perfect like new inside!! Still ran great!- then he dropped in a CLS motor and 6 speed for fun.
No ill effects have been reported that I am aware of- the ONLYy problem is when you put it in way too much way too fast- and the engine stalls with a backwash of pressure-covers you in seafoam, thats bad. Have to ignore all the directions so far to make that happen.
Go slow slow slow- squirt squit- let engine stabilize etc
Take those 2 free cans and put 1 in the gas when at 1/2 tank level
Use the hose method with sip sip for vac port- use clear hose or clear container so you can get a feel for how this is supposed to work
IN about 2000 miles repeat, for 1st timers-- to get all the residual crud out.
If you use half the spray can now and the other half in a month- thats fine too.
When you add it to the engine oil- about 1-2 ounce PER qt of oil- 1/3-1/2 of a liquid can- and run it at idle for 5-10 minutes in the driveway, or drive around block then change oil and filter.
Ok to drive 100 miles but not 500- can overload an old dirty filter that way really fast.
Use a new filter for cleaning if really dirty engine, or plan to drive more than around the block - disclaimers- this is all just my opinion- you do what you feel is right
Still dont trust seafoam?- thats ok- check out WYNNS or BG44 fuel cleaner, of have speedilube do a fuel induction service, or buy the kit from honda for 50 bucks.
Anything is better than nothing
Seen the Castrol oil commercial with the tar-like engine sludge?- thats not even as bad as it really is in there!
Engines are crud factories- you need to keep them clean for best performance everyday
I was a pro tech for decades- ran a shop- been around speed vehicles all my life.
Most of my time here is spent in gen2 or 3, but I do have 3 green boxes in Off Topic, reputation points - for whatever that means
At the shop we had a machine for doing this cleaning procedure back in the 80s- originally marketed to BMW owners by bmw owner magazines- then evertyone caught on to the benefits of clean valves and pistons- what a concept~
Turns out whats in the special cleaning machine---its seafoam-
they put in the 1 gallon of gas! Read the can!!
It is NOT a SOLVENT- thats what sets it apart, and makes it a favorite among ziners and millions of others-
It IS `hi-detergent oils`- thats not going to hurt anything- and because we do a hot foot drive afterwards, there is no crud left on the spark plugs~~
If you have over 60-70k miles already - its time to replace the plugs for max performance based on that age, yes,,, they will last to 105, but not at peak performance anymore-
Less efficient spark = more unburned fuel for the cat to handle- Less torque generated by weak firing impules causes you to push harder on pedal to make car go - makes even more gas go to engine.... mileage suffers
You change the spark plugs a few days or a week after seafoam- let it do its thing and be cleared out- then replace plugs if you want
It does not eat the TL plugs as if they were some dollar specials. We have trick hi-energy ignitions and special type plugs that cost 7 bucks each! NGK Iridium suggested by many
The one thing your buddy got right- gas cost more every day!!!!!!!!!!!
Seafoam's been on the market for 50+ years- thats a pretty solid reputation- and a money-back guarantee, that my parts stores all say, no one has ever asked for!
The aerosol can makes it very easy to clean the all important TB butterfly plate- forget that and 1/2 the job is left undone
Plus for the noobs- trying to figure out how to hold a can or bottle of liquid while raising it to a hose- a funky sized hose you may have to buy a foot of unless you keep a stock of extra parts in the garage--
So, for the vac port method, I am really liking the Deep Creep aerosol can with straw.
Its fun to spray small squirts and dribbles from the straw towards the vac port- you can be an inch away and it turns it into a tornado and sucks into the manifold~
The liquid Seafoam is for the gas tank- use qty:1, 16 ounce can in 1/2 a tank of gas.
Thats a super cleaning dose of 2 oz per gal of fuel- repeat in 5000 miles. Wont hurt the injectors or any other parts. Use can in full tank for maitenance dose for trips 1 oz per 1 gallon for general cleanup.
Use Tier 1 name brand gasoline as well- makes a differance to the TL
Repeat vac port method once a year or 15k miles whichever is first.
The longest term user of foam here that I know of--- is fsttyms1--
(thats==fast times WON!)
he put over 200,000 miles on his 00 engine and pulled it apart for inspection- perfect like new inside!! Still ran great!- then he dropped in a CLS motor and 6 speed for fun.
No ill effects have been reported that I am aware of- the ONLYy problem is when you put it in way too much way too fast- and the engine stalls with a backwash of pressure-covers you in seafoam, thats bad. Have to ignore all the directions so far to make that happen.
Go slow slow slow- squirt squit- let engine stabilize etc
Take those 2 free cans and put 1 in the gas when at 1/2 tank level
Use the hose method with sip sip for vac port- use clear hose or clear container so you can get a feel for how this is supposed to work
IN about 2000 miles repeat, for 1st timers-- to get all the residual crud out.
If you use half the spray can now and the other half in a month- thats fine too.
When you add it to the engine oil- about 1-2 ounce PER qt of oil- 1/3-1/2 of a liquid can- and run it at idle for 5-10 minutes in the driveway, or drive around block then change oil and filter.
Ok to drive 100 miles but not 500- can overload an old dirty filter that way really fast.
Use a new filter for cleaning if really dirty engine, or plan to drive more than around the block - disclaimers- this is all just my opinion- you do what you feel is right
Still dont trust seafoam?- thats ok- check out WYNNS or BG44 fuel cleaner, of have speedilube do a fuel induction service, or buy the kit from honda for 50 bucks.
Anything is better than nothing
Seen the Castrol oil commercial with the tar-like engine sludge?- thats not even as bad as it really is in there!
Engines are crud factories- you need to keep them clean for best performance everyday
07-07-2008, 11:32 AM
#284
Make Nice, Not Rice
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks 01TL4TL for the fantastic write up. To mention a few things to be sure:
When seafoaming, you should change the spark plugs about a week after? What if you don't, is it harmful at all (only 19k miles on the car)?
If somehow I was putting way too much way too fast, does the engine stabilize by itself after a drive or so?
*That's all for now, thanks again!
When seafoaming, you should change the spark plugs about a week after? What if you don't, is it harmful at all (only 19k miles on the car)?
If somehow I was putting way too much way too fast, does the engine stabilize by itself after a drive or so?
*That's all for now, thanks again!
07-07-2008, 07:33 PM
#285
if you use to much to fast, the engine stalls - thats all-
some funny running for a day is normal as the system clears out- especially if a can in the gas tank
do more 4000 rpm runs, held in 2nd gear on sideroad or 3rd on freeway for 10 minutes- that makes heat!!!- we like heat to remove foam residue
Only 19k on the car? the spark plugs are fine as long as you did the 4000 rpm drive after- that cleaned them right off!!!
If you had 70k miles- I would replace them based on age- performance loss with age- but leave yours alone at 19!
some funny running for a day is normal as the system clears out- especially if a can in the gas tank
do more 4000 rpm runs, held in 2nd gear on sideroad or 3rd on freeway for 10 minutes- that makes heat!!!- we like heat to remove foam residue
Only 19k on the car? the spark plugs are fine as long as you did the 4000 rpm drive after- that cleaned them right off!!!
If you had 70k miles- I would replace them based on age- performance loss with age- but leave yours alone at 19!
07-08-2008, 01:38 AM
#286
Instructor
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Age: 48
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just in case someone else has the same experience, here's what happened when I used seafoam.
I did everything according to instruction, and slowly put one can through the vac port. After letting the car sit for 10 minutes, I started it up to go on my drive. The CEL and TCS lights came on, my idle was so low i had to give a little gas to keep from stalling, and my limiter would kick in at 3000rpm. So much for racing through the gears. Things didn't look too good, but the fix was simple. I was able to reset everything by unhooking the battery. Now everything is running perfectly
.
I did everything according to instruction, and slowly put one can through the vac port. After letting the car sit for 10 minutes, I started it up to go on my drive. The CEL and TCS lights came on, my idle was so low i had to give a little gas to keep from stalling, and my limiter would kick in at 3000rpm. So much for racing through the gears. Things didn't look too good, but the fix was simple. I was able to reset everything by unhooking the battery. Now everything is running perfectly
.
07-08-2008, 04:56 AM
#287
hates the winter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Age: 43
Posts: 2,620
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You may have sucked too much in at one time, and usually half a can is more than enough for the VAC port line (8oz), then save the rest for the crankcase when it's time for an oil change.
A full can in half a tank of gas the first time around, then a full can in a full tank of gas for maintence.
A full can in half a tank of gas the first time around, then a full can in a full tank of gas for maintence.
07-08-2008, 06:53 AM
#288
Intermediate
Join Date: Jun 2008
Age: 42
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Quick Question,
I have already used Seafoam in the Vac Lines, and in the Gas Tank Already. I used a whole can for Vac and a whole can for Gas Tank @ 1/4 mark. Now im going to use it in my CrankCase right before my Oil Change in a few hours.
How much should i use in the CrankCase? 1 Whole Can as well?
When you say 1 Can, do u mean 8oz Cans or 16oz Cans?
I have the 16oz Cans, and those are what I already had used for the VAC and the Gas.
2002 TL-S @73,000miles with new plugs (NGK IX) a few days ago after my first Seafoam.
Thanks for your input.
I have already used Seafoam in the Vac Lines, and in the Gas Tank Already. I used a whole can for Vac and a whole can for Gas Tank @ 1/4 mark. Now im going to use it in my CrankCase right before my Oil Change in a few hours.
How much should i use in the CrankCase? 1 Whole Can as well?
When you say 1 Can, do u mean 8oz Cans or 16oz Cans?
I have the 16oz Cans, and those are what I already had used for the VAC and the Gas.
2002 TL-S @73,000miles with new plugs (NGK IX) a few days ago after my first Seafoam.
Thanks for your input.
07-08-2008, 07:05 AM
#289
hates the winter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Age: 43
Posts: 2,620
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was referring to the 16oz can. Personally I suggest using half the can in the vac port, and crankcase unless the engine/fuel system is REALLY dirty.
It won't harm anything if you use the full 16oz. In a 1/4 tank 16oz is a bit strong though. Since you already used two full cans, you might as well dump it all in the crankcase this time around as well.
It won't harm anything if you use the full 16oz. In a 1/4 tank 16oz is a bit strong though. Since you already used two full cans, you might as well dump it all in the crankcase this time around as well.
07-08-2008, 07:35 AM
#290
I would be careful with heavy doseage on the engine oil- seafoam suggest 1 to 1.5 ounces per qt of oil or about 1/3 of a 16 oz can for our engine.
To my knowledge the cans only come in 16 oz size (or gallons)---
I mistyped and said 8 a few times and that got picked up--- I meant-- use 8 oz of the product.....
Anything more than 8oz in the vac port is extra good but not required- use the rest of it at the 2nd cleaning in 2,000 miles
The gas tank can get super dosed without major concerns
16 in 4 gallons is pretty heavy- I would add 5 gallons to the tank
As a note- the directions for the machine use with 1 gallon gas can, calls for 16 oz seafoam!
- may take a few extra days driving and extra gunk getting clean-
thats when you get cel light- drive a day to clear it, or reset the ecu by pulling the CLOCK fuse in passenger foot area
STILL needs a good set of hot drives when you have dosed it hard!!!
Clearing a CEL will not fix whatever triggered it- thats why I say to drive it off instead- make the system do the work and tell you its done!
What often happens is gooey crud gets on the O2 sensor in the exhaust- thats why we do the hot foot drive- to burn crud off
To my knowledge the cans only come in 16 oz size (or gallons)---
I mistyped and said 8 a few times and that got picked up--- I meant-- use 8 oz of the product.....
Anything more than 8oz in the vac port is extra good but not required- use the rest of it at the 2nd cleaning in 2,000 miles
The gas tank can get super dosed without major concerns
16 in 4 gallons is pretty heavy- I would add 5 gallons to the tank
As a note- the directions for the machine use with 1 gallon gas can, calls for 16 oz seafoam!
- may take a few extra days driving and extra gunk getting clean-
thats when you get cel light- drive a day to clear it, or reset the ecu by pulling the CLOCK fuse in passenger foot area
STILL needs a good set of hot drives when you have dosed it hard!!!
Clearing a CEL will not fix whatever triggered it- thats why I say to drive it off instead- make the system do the work and tell you its done!
What often happens is gooey crud gets on the O2 sensor in the exhaust- thats why we do the hot foot drive- to burn crud off
07-08-2008, 07:42 AM
#291
parvo-
did you do a warm up drive before seafoam? thats the only reason I have seen for it presenting itself different than the DIY results.
When the engine is still loaded up with seafoam it runs bad- thats why I say to idle about 2 minutes- then drive at 2000 rpm for a few minutes until it stabilizes and can be revved to 4000 without stumbling - then warm it at 4000 rpm and then hot drive on the freeway- and do a bunch of low speed start- full throttle to 5000 rpm- then lift off and repeat repeat repeat as necessary
That is going to move a lot of cleaner and residue from the entire system.
The fuel injectors benefit from this with cleaner in the gas tank-- they get a lot of fuel at high pressure pushed thru their screens and tiny spray ports- end result is fine misting instead of dribble of fuel===better combustion- engine runs as designed!!!
did you do a warm up drive before seafoam? thats the only reason I have seen for it presenting itself different than the DIY results.
When the engine is still loaded up with seafoam it runs bad- thats why I say to idle about 2 minutes- then drive at 2000 rpm for a few minutes until it stabilizes and can be revved to 4000 without stumbling - then warm it at 4000 rpm and then hot drive on the freeway- and do a bunch of low speed start- full throttle to 5000 rpm- then lift off and repeat repeat repeat as necessary
That is going to move a lot of cleaner and residue from the entire system.
The fuel injectors benefit from this with cleaner in the gas tank-- they get a lot of fuel at high pressure pushed thru their screens and tiny spray ports- end result is fine misting instead of dribble of fuel===better combustion- engine runs as designed!!!
07-08-2008, 11:23 AM
#292
Intermediate
Join Date: Jun 2008
Age: 42
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
I would be careful with heavy doseage on the engine oil- seafoam suggest 1 to 1.5 ounces per qt of oil or about 1/3 of a 16 oz can for our engine.
To my knowledge the cans only come in 16 oz size (or gallons)---
I mistyped and said 8 a few times and that got picked up--- I meant-- use 8 oz of the product.....
Anything more than 8oz in the vac port is extra good but not required- use the rest of it at the 2nd cleaning in 2,000 miles
The gas tank can get super dosed without major concerns
16 in 4 gallons is pretty heavy- I would add 5 gallons to the tank
As a note- the directions for the machine use with 1 gallon gas can, calls for 16 oz seafoam!
- may take a few extra days driving and extra gunk getting clean-
thats when you get cel light- drive a day to clear it, or reset the ecu by pulling the CLOCK fuse in passenger foot area
STILL needs a good set of hot drives when you have dosed it hard!!!
Clearing a CEL will not fix whatever triggered it- thats why I say to drive it off instead- make the system do the work and tell you its done!
What often happens is gooey crud gets on the O2 sensor in the exhaust- thats why we do the hot foot drive- to burn crud off
To my knowledge the cans only come in 16 oz size (or gallons)---
I mistyped and said 8 a few times and that got picked up--- I meant-- use 8 oz of the product.....
Anything more than 8oz in the vac port is extra good but not required- use the rest of it at the 2nd cleaning in 2,000 miles
The gas tank can get super dosed without major concerns
16 in 4 gallons is pretty heavy- I would add 5 gallons to the tank
As a note- the directions for the machine use with 1 gallon gas can, calls for 16 oz seafoam!
- may take a few extra days driving and extra gunk getting clean-
thats when you get cel light- drive a day to clear it, or reset the ecu by pulling the CLOCK fuse in passenger foot area
STILL needs a good set of hot drives when you have dosed it hard!!!
Clearing a CEL will not fix whatever triggered it- thats why I say to drive it off instead- make the system do the work and tell you its done!
What often happens is gooey crud gets on the O2 sensor in the exhaust- thats why we do the hot foot drive- to burn crud off
07-13-2008, 04:07 PM
#294
'12 & '13 AL West Champs!
Originally Posted by Munda
Could someone give me either his experience or know if Seaform could be used like for Acura TL?
Thanks
Thanks
07-13-2008, 04:12 PM
#295
Instructor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I recently did the sea foam - good stuff! My sharing is in an alteration to the feeding of the foam to the engine.
It seems that the slower and more controlled you can add the SF to your intake VAC the better. Many seem to have stories of engine stalls and too much at once. I have found a very simple fix to this!
The .5 inch extra VAC line that we've been using is good, in addition, buy a 3 inch piece of the .25 inch line as well! Take this line, and wrap a good 5-7 inch length of tape (I used masking tape) around one end to fatten the line a little, Keep it a good centimeter from the actual tip of the end you wrap (you dont want the SF to collect any tape residue)
Take the fat end of the short tube and stuff it into one end of the .5 VAC line. Attach your VAC line to the TB VAC intake when your ready to juice - work SLOWLY!
This smaller end of the hose will create a much higher pitch of suction that is much easier to hear over your engine and the cooling fans. You want the highest pitch you can get at a continuous constant rate, dont dunk the tip into the SF, if you stop hearing the sucking whine your giving it too much. It should take a good 15 minutes to get it all in, done right. And your engine SHOULDN'T STALL! There is no need to rush or push it to cause the engine to stop.
Smoking should start roughly 1/3 to 1/2 of the can and continue to the end.
Finish it up, let it idle for a minute, turn it off!
I left mine sitting for 25 minutes and then came out to do my hot run! Boy that'll smoke!
Follow all the other steps before and after the SF Dosing as directed in this thread and you should be all set!
Heres a couple pics of the perfect sipper!
Hope this helps some of you!
It seems that the slower and more controlled you can add the SF to your intake VAC the better. Many seem to have stories of engine stalls and too much at once. I have found a very simple fix to this!
The .5 inch extra VAC line that we've been using is good, in addition, buy a 3 inch piece of the .25 inch line as well! Take this line, and wrap a good 5-7 inch length of tape (I used masking tape) around one end to fatten the line a little, Keep it a good centimeter from the actual tip of the end you wrap (you dont want the SF to collect any tape residue)
Take the fat end of the short tube and stuff it into one end of the .5 VAC line. Attach your VAC line to the TB VAC intake when your ready to juice - work SLOWLY!
This smaller end of the hose will create a much higher pitch of suction that is much easier to hear over your engine and the cooling fans. You want the highest pitch you can get at a continuous constant rate, dont dunk the tip into the SF, if you stop hearing the sucking whine your giving it too much. It should take a good 15 minutes to get it all in, done right. And your engine SHOULDN'T STALL! There is no need to rush or push it to cause the engine to stop.
Smoking should start roughly 1/3 to 1/2 of the can and continue to the end.
Finish it up, let it idle for a minute, turn it off!
I left mine sitting for 25 minutes and then came out to do my hot run! Boy that'll smoke!
Follow all the other steps before and after the SF Dosing as directed in this thread and you should be all set!
Heres a couple pics of the perfect sipper!
Hope this helps some of you!
07-13-2008, 04:54 PM
#297
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Charlotte(home) /Raleigh (school), NC
Age: 35
Posts: 11,395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Munda
Mine is 2002 Audi A4 3.0L
07-13-2008, 06:41 PM
#298
Originally Posted by Trackruner228
I couldnt find a 3.0 but I did find a 1.8T. I am not sure how close your cars are but here it is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3s0nJ3pFHY
07-13-2008, 08:45 PM
#299
forget the funky homemade hose and buy seafoam in its spray can version- DEEP CREEP- does the same job and more than the liquid- Very easy to get small amounts at a time into the vac port. Make sure the clean the TB butterfly throttle plate inside the TB assembly. Most important to keep that clean!!!
07-18-2008, 02:50 AM
#300
Intermediate
Join Date: Jul 2008
Age: 36
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm looking to seafoam my gastank and vac line for my 03 TL. How much would i need for teh gastank and how much for the Vac line? and do i just dump the seafoam into the gastank where i refill my gas? and should i put the seafoam in like a cup or something to make it easier to control the amount of seafoam it sucks? If someone can give me some picture on how to do this on a 03 TL or even nice with vid would be really nice =D.
08-01-2008, 01:26 PM
#301
Intermediate
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vernon
Age: 46
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i just seafoamed yesterday using the deep creep can... it was so easy to do and the engine never stalled, though it did pulse (kinda like it was drinking!) there was no smoke at the time so i was a little disappointed. i got into the car for my 'spirited drive' on the highway and the smoke came.... there was so much it covered the entire intersection it was sooooo awesome, i was laughing histerically... blasting out to the highway people behind me must have been cursing me and my piece of shit car.... lol
i don't know if the car is actually responding better or i just think it is, but i am real happy with the changes i think i feel... now for a can in the gas tank!
i don't know if the car is actually responding better or i just think it is, but i am real happy with the changes i think i feel... now for a can in the gas tank!
08-01-2008, 02:50 PM
#302
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Ice-Tray
i just seafoamed yesterday using the deep creep can... it was so easy to do and the engine never stalled, though it did pulse (kinda like it was drinking!) there was no smoke at the time so i was a little disappointed. i got into the car for my 'spirited drive' on the highway and the smoke came.... there was so much it covered the entire intersection it was sooooo awesome, i was laughing histerically... blasting out to the highway people behind me must have been cursing me and my piece of shit car.... lol
i don't know if the car is actually responding better or i just think it is, but i am real happy with the changes i think i feel... now for a can in the gas tank!
i don't know if the car is actually responding better or i just think it is, but i am real happy with the changes i think i feel... now for a can in the gas tank!
08-01-2008, 04:54 PM
#303
just go watch a youtube of combustion or induction cleaning in action- it uses a boroscope camera inside a running engine- you see the crud- then the stuff hits it and bang its cleaning cleaning clean
For best combustion you need clean pistons and valves and of course- fuel injectors!
rob of all people- after the sludge that filled your oil filter- would appreciate that seafoam really works.
Though just when you were able to give us post valve adjustment numbers and- well you know ....
for the rest of us- seafoam or wynns or honda stuff is a good investment in the preserving of one's dollars in the wallet-
expect futher rise in gas prices!
For best combustion you need clean pistons and valves and of course- fuel injectors!
rob of all people- after the sludge that filled your oil filter- would appreciate that seafoam really works.
Though just when you were able to give us post valve adjustment numbers and- well you know ....
for the rest of us- seafoam or wynns or honda stuff is a good investment in the preserving of one's dollars in the wallet-
expect futher rise in gas prices!
08-03-2008, 06:29 PM
#304
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I've been tracking this thread for awhile and want to apply the Seafoam 'sip sip' procedure to my S/C'd 03 CLS-6. I have found the appropriate vacuum port on my TB for the undertaking; however, as you know, when a S/C unit is installed on a J-series, the TB is relocated from its original postion on the stock manifold to its new home on the blower inlet of the supercharger.
My question is: Will the Seafoam 'detergent oils' that get pulled through the (usually dry)S/C'er unit and the resulting residue that's left behind (non burned oils) harm the internal components of the superchager itself? I'm thinking yes.
The S/C components I am referring to are displayed as the fifth and sixth picture in the first post of this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...+reseal+change
I'm thinking that it would be wiser to by-pass the S/C'er unit entirely and use the vacuum hose from the blower by-pass valve to the inlet fitting located on the blower intake elbow after the S/C unit. This way the S/C paddles and related lubricated fittings in the link above would remain dry or uncontaminated with the SF content.
Any input would be welcome, thanks!
My question is: Will the Seafoam 'detergent oils' that get pulled through the (usually dry)S/C'er unit and the resulting residue that's left behind (non burned oils) harm the internal components of the superchager itself? I'm thinking yes.
The S/C components I am referring to are displayed as the fifth and sixth picture in the first post of this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...+reseal+change
I'm thinking that it would be wiser to by-pass the S/C'er unit entirely and use the vacuum hose from the blower by-pass valve to the inlet fitting located on the blower intake elbow after the S/C unit. This way the S/C paddles and related lubricated fittings in the link above would remain dry or uncontaminated with the SF content.
Any input would be welcome, thanks!
08-03-2008, 06:47 PM
#305
You can use the brake booster Vac hose- it still gets a direct manifold feed right?
You want the seafoam to go direct into the intake manifold- at full vac port- so thats the brakes.
Try Deep Creep- seafoam in a spray can- works way easier than dip and sip---its squirt squirt- dribble dribble
Everyone who has tried it says its easier to do than the hose method.
check seafoamsales.com for any tech stuff you need
You want the seafoam to go direct into the intake manifold- at full vac port- so thats the brakes.
Try Deep Creep- seafoam in a spray can- works way easier than dip and sip---its squirt squirt- dribble dribble
Everyone who has tried it says its easier to do than the hose method.
check seafoamsales.com for any tech stuff you need
08-03-2008, 06:49 PM
#306
If you can get direct to the TB butterfly-throttle plate inside the TB- shoot some carb clean or deep crep on it to remove the crud thats built up on the sides and face
I would not get anything near a sc or turbo- just to be safe
like not run seafoam in the engine oil!
I would not get anything near a sc or turbo- just to be safe
like not run seafoam in the engine oil!
08-03-2008, 07:40 PM
#307
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
You can use the brake booster Vac hose- it still gets a direct manifold feed right?
You want the seafoam to go direct into the intake manifold- at full vac port- so thats the brakes.
You want the seafoam to go direct into the intake manifold- at full vac port- so thats the brakes.
The easiest test (for my case) will involve starting the engine to check the strength of the vacuum at the blower intake elbow fitting (attached to the intake, after the S/C'er) to see if this will provide sufficent negative pressure to perform the aerosol precedure. This way the deep creep enters at the center line of the intake and reasonably distributes to all cylinders.
In addition, I don't think it will be a problem to use the Seafoam in the oil as recommended. There is no 'engine oil to S/C link' that would otherwise prohibit this. That's if I'm understanding your statement about 'not using it in the engine oil'.
I'm just trying to 'think this thing through' before attempting because I want to experience the results that all you all mentioned without compromising blower functionality.
Thanks for the response.
08-03-2008, 08:49 PM
#308
the brake booster is full vac 20+ inches and will allow the stuff to get sucked into all the ports no sweat--as each valve opens it pulls air into the runner and cylinder.
The tiny vac line at the rear/firewall side of the stock manifold- that does NOT work as it only feeds 3 cyls- it has very small vac suction so easy to tell its no good
As for flow and what end- with the aerosol, I dont even spray it fully- just dribble and hold an inch away from the vac nipple- it grabs the fluid and swirls it into the port in a tornado like action! Science at work!
If your inlet has 20 inches go for it- otherwise use the booster- I am not the one who came up with the idea- its on the can directions
Had to use it an a friends car the other day- easiest hose to reach!
I was not specific- if Turbo - do NOT use seafoam in the oil as the oil does feed the turbo bearings- not a good idea~
S/C it would not matter
The tiny vac line at the rear/firewall side of the stock manifold- that does NOT work as it only feeds 3 cyls- it has very small vac suction so easy to tell its no good
As for flow and what end- with the aerosol, I dont even spray it fully- just dribble and hold an inch away from the vac nipple- it grabs the fluid and swirls it into the port in a tornado like action! Science at work!
If your inlet has 20 inches go for it- otherwise use the booster- I am not the one who came up with the idea- its on the can directions
Had to use it an a friends car the other day- easiest hose to reach!
I was not specific- if Turbo - do NOT use seafoam in the oil as the oil does feed the turbo bearings- not a good idea~
S/C it would not matter
08-03-2008, 08:52 PM
#309
If your are still concerned -just throw seafoam in the gas tank at 2 ounces per gallon of gas
Thats cleaning dose- do a few- 1/2 tanks to 1 can, and it will get good results without dealing with the manifold and hoses and fittings
You are using higher octane gas too right? with the sc?
Thats cleaning dose- do a few- 1/2 tanks to 1 can, and it will get good results without dealing with the manifold and hoses and fittings
You are using higher octane gas too right? with the sc?
08-19-2008, 12:49 PM
#310
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
You are using higher octane gas too right? with the sc?
Update:
Drove the car for 10-15 minutes to bring it up to operating temp. as mentinoned by 01tl4tl. I used the vacuum at the blower intake elbow fitting, thus bypassing the S/C unit. When I disconnected the hose, at idle, it sounded like a 'jet' pulling air through the line. That indicated immediatly that the vacuum was going to be sufficent. (I considered disconnecting the proximate end of the brake booster line at the master cylinder for this application; however, it was not as easy to access, so it was not used.)
Slowy over the next 10-15 minutes the agent was introduced slooowly at idle with no stalling problems. I applied a whole 12 oz. can of deep creep. After waiting 15 minutes, the engine was started up with a little difficulty; however, it stabilized quickly. Went out for the 'hot shoe' drive and smoked heavy for the first 5-7 minutes. Performance improvements are subtle, but noticeable. Idle is smoother, and acceleration is definitely quicker/smoother. Will repeat in another 2K miles as recommended. Overall, I am satisfied with the results, and it (deep creep) has now been used on an S/C'ed car with no problems at all.
At the my next oil change interval seafoam will be used as well.
I put seafoam in my lawn tractor gas and now it's like
Good stuff!
08-20-2008, 07:58 PM
#312
octane rating has little to do with engine cleanliness- actually higher octane contain MORE additives- to prevent detonation/pre-ignition ~ and increase the octane number.
That can result in higher deposit ratios into the oil of vapors from ring blow-by,,, with the pressure from the sc application---just a guess there
I thought you may be running 98 or 100 with a SC
Gas at the refinery is 87, then they add to it right before it goes in the truck- whatever secret sauce each brand name is using to run as cleaners and delayers/octane raiser
That can result in higher deposit ratios into the oil of vapors from ring blow-by,,, with the pressure from the sc application---just a guess there
I thought you may be running 98 or 100 with a SC
Gas at the refinery is 87, then they add to it right before it goes in the truck- whatever secret sauce each brand name is using to run as cleaners and delayers/octane raiser
08-21-2008, 04:05 PM
#313
'06 Acura TL
Summary of process
I'm going to be seafoaming my 1999 TL engine tomorrow....not going to put any in gas tank or crankcase (just put a bottle of chevron fuel cleaner in and I just did an oil change). Just want to make sure I have these steps right as there is alot of information scattered on this thread...
1)Warm up car with a 15 minute drive
2)Turn car off and connect my black tube to the nipple
3)Turn car back on
3)Put tube in bottle of seafoam, I'm going to pinch the end of the tube to only allow a little to flow threw at a time, trying to use the whole bottle in 10 minutes.
4)Turn car off and let sit for 20 minutes
5)Start car up and let idle for 2 minutes
6)Go for a drive, accelerating and so on...
7)Change my spark plugs because I have 76K and havent changed them yet
Quick question for step 3, should I hit the gold throttle a bit if it starts to stall as I put the seafoam in?
Also can I change the spark plugs in step 7 or should this be done before I do anything?
1)Warm up car with a 15 minute drive
2)Turn car off and connect my black tube to the nipple
3)Turn car back on
3)Put tube in bottle of seafoam, I'm going to pinch the end of the tube to only allow a little to flow threw at a time, trying to use the whole bottle in 10 minutes.
4)Turn car off and let sit for 20 minutes
5)Start car up and let idle for 2 minutes
6)Go for a drive, accelerating and so on...
7)Change my spark plugs because I have 76K and havent changed them yet
Quick question for step 3, should I hit the gold throttle a bit if it starts to stall as I put the seafoam in?
Also can I change the spark plugs in step 7 or should this be done before I do anything?
08-21-2008, 07:29 PM
#314
change the plugs a week or a few days after seafoam to allow the crud inside to get blown out, and the plugs have a nice clean home
Forget the bottle and hose trick- there is NO way you can squeeze the hose to limit flow- thats why all the talk of sip sip sip- raising the bottle up to the hose- or dipping hose in bottle- using clear hose and sports dring clear bottle to see whats happening for real
It will literally pick up the liquid from 1 inch away from the hose end!!!
The can may be emptied in seconds if a seal were made over the can opening and hose!
The BEST way and the easiest way to seafoam is with its aerosol spray can version called DEEP CREEP, ask your parts store for it. some have it- some dont
Its 100 percent seafoam- same amont -same price, in a convenient paint spray type can with a plastic straw to dipense with precision
Slowly add spray dribbles and watch it make tornados from an inch from the vac port- small amount at a time and you wont stall the engine-
avoid the reflex grab for the throttle-! we want idle the whole time or you blow cleaner out before it gets to work, Restart engine if needed rather than rev it
10-15 minutes to get it in- then sit engine off for 15 NOT 20, 15 minutes!!- so the cat and engine and goo inside doesnt cool off too much- harder to get blown off in the drive
after 2 minute idle to let engine stabilize- start driving at 2000 rpm using SS mode of trans, then 4000 rpm for 10 minutes with zips up to 5000, not to redline!!!! then some 2nd gear low rpm to high fun runs
Since you have gas cleaner in there now thats fine- as long as there is cleaner it doesnt matter if tecroline, redline, or seafoam in the gas- it will get the injectores clean and thats very important to the process
Another thing using Deep Creep- easy to spray clean the TB Throttle Body Butterfly Plate - spray some on it- start engine- spray more- its clean- done
You can use carb cleaner or TB cleaner there too
Forget the bottle and hose trick- there is NO way you can squeeze the hose to limit flow- thats why all the talk of sip sip sip- raising the bottle up to the hose- or dipping hose in bottle- using clear hose and sports dring clear bottle to see whats happening for real
It will literally pick up the liquid from 1 inch away from the hose end!!!
The can may be emptied in seconds if a seal were made over the can opening and hose!
The BEST way and the easiest way to seafoam is with its aerosol spray can version called DEEP CREEP, ask your parts store for it. some have it- some dont
Its 100 percent seafoam- same amont -same price, in a convenient paint spray type can with a plastic straw to dipense with precision
Slowly add spray dribbles and watch it make tornados from an inch from the vac port- small amount at a time and you wont stall the engine-
avoid the reflex grab for the throttle-! we want idle the whole time or you blow cleaner out before it gets to work, Restart engine if needed rather than rev it
10-15 minutes to get it in- then sit engine off for 15 NOT 20, 15 minutes!!- so the cat and engine and goo inside doesnt cool off too much- harder to get blown off in the drive
after 2 minute idle to let engine stabilize- start driving at 2000 rpm using SS mode of trans, then 4000 rpm for 10 minutes with zips up to 5000, not to redline!!!! then some 2nd gear low rpm to high fun runs
Since you have gas cleaner in there now thats fine- as long as there is cleaner it doesnt matter if tecroline, redline, or seafoam in the gas- it will get the injectores clean and thats very important to the process
Another thing using Deep Creep- easy to spray clean the TB Throttle Body Butterfly Plate - spray some on it- start engine- spray more- its clean- done
You can use carb cleaner or TB cleaner there too
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 08-21-2008 at 07:31 PM.
08-21-2008, 10:37 PM
#315
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
(Liquid) Seafoam Motor Treatment = 16 oz; $5.64 Wally world.
(Aerosol) Deep Creep-Multiuse Petro. Spray = 12 oz; $7.98 Autozone.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/products.htm
08-21-2008, 10:47 PM
#316
Drifting
...10-15 minutes to get it in- then sit engine off for 15 NOT 20, 15 minutes!!- so the cat and engine and goo inside doesnt cool off too much- harder to get blown off in the drive
after 2 minute idle to let engine stabilize- start driving at 2000 rpm using SS mode of trans, then 4000 rpm for 10 minutes with zips up to 5000, not to redline!!!! then some 2nd gear low rpm to high fun runs....
after 2 minute idle to let engine stabilize- start driving at 2000 rpm using SS mode of trans, then 4000 rpm for 10 minutes with zips up to 5000, not to redline!!!! then some 2nd gear low rpm to high fun runs....
08-22-2008, 07:21 AM
#317
Time numbers are from the experience of numerous ziners who have tried every combo of times and rpms, plus a working knowledge of the $150 machine cleaning method- which happens to use seafoam in 1/2 gallon of gas~
The can says wait 5 minutes with engine off- then go for drive
Our logic is let the stuff have more working time, put it in slow, at idle, and allow it to attach and do its thing to the crud and grunge.
The machine method takes 20-30 minutes---depending if the customer is there, and how much other work has to be done on other cars while this one sits and does its thing.
Waiting 20 and 30 minutes seem to allow too much cooling of the cat convertor and engine-
Heat in the cat is what makes most of the initial smoke as the cleaning oils react to heat....you need heat to make the proper cleaning happen- goo gets blown out with hi exhaust pressures from 4000 rpm sustained
Why do I have all this info; because the mods asked me to make fresh diy's with good pics- and we can get rid of the 8 pages of wrong vac hose instructions and proceed direct to intake manifold vac- and cleaning the TB etc.
Our Sacramento meet had a live DIY on a gen3, same process, video was taken and on the tube now.
Its not illegal to use- its smart to use a side road where 45 mph is legal, thats 4000rpm in 2nd gear- One ziner did get pulled over- Do you know your car is smoking? Yes Officer I just seafoamed and have to run it out.
Oh Seafoam- have a nice day---and walked away!
It will NOT hurt the cat, again- its oils! which are normal for some to get to the cat- which when its HOT as directed, burns them right up
Says SAFE for cat right on the can.
wallyworld is known to have the seafoam liquid for a few dollars less than parts stores, but I use Deep Creep- spray seafoam, AND the regular liquid so the local zone is where I go-
1st timers- remember to repeat gas tank and vac port methods in 2000 miles, a month or so- that will do a finishing touch up now that you have experience, and then you're set for a year / 15k miles
The can says wait 5 minutes with engine off- then go for drive
Our logic is let the stuff have more working time, put it in slow, at idle, and allow it to attach and do its thing to the crud and grunge.
The machine method takes 20-30 minutes---depending if the customer is there, and how much other work has to be done on other cars while this one sits and does its thing.
Waiting 20 and 30 minutes seem to allow too much cooling of the cat convertor and engine-
Heat in the cat is what makes most of the initial smoke as the cleaning oils react to heat....you need heat to make the proper cleaning happen- goo gets blown out with hi exhaust pressures from 4000 rpm sustained
Why do I have all this info; because the mods asked me to make fresh diy's with good pics- and we can get rid of the 8 pages of wrong vac hose instructions and proceed direct to intake manifold vac- and cleaning the TB etc.
Our Sacramento meet had a live DIY on a gen3, same process, video was taken and on the tube now.
Its not illegal to use- its smart to use a side road where 45 mph is legal, thats 4000rpm in 2nd gear- One ziner did get pulled over- Do you know your car is smoking? Yes Officer I just seafoamed and have to run it out.
Oh Seafoam- have a nice day---and walked away!
It will NOT hurt the cat, again- its oils! which are normal for some to get to the cat- which when its HOT as directed, burns them right up
Says SAFE for cat right on the can.
wallyworld is known to have the seafoam liquid for a few dollars less than parts stores, but I use Deep Creep- spray seafoam, AND the regular liquid so the local zone is where I go-
1st timers- remember to repeat gas tank and vac port methods in 2000 miles, a month or so- that will do a finishing touch up now that you have experience, and then you're set for a year / 15k miles
08-22-2008, 11:49 AM
#318
'06 Acura TL
@01tl4tl: I saw somewhere you said the pics in the earlier part of this thread were showing the wrong Vac Port in inject the Deep Creep in....is the location in post #149 correct cause that port with the little metal clip holding it tight on the nipple was the port i was going to use...i see no reason to remove the engine cover if this is the correct port.
08-22-2008, 01:53 PM
#320
'06 Acura TL
alright just finished seafoaming...everything went as planned, although I didn't have very much smoke out the back. When I was putting the bottle in there was absolutely no smoke and then when I first got down my block I saw ALOT of smoke but after that hardly anything. Check engine light was on, just took out fuse 13 and reset it, hopefully it doesnt come back on. Do I need to keep driving it around? I drove it probably 10 miles down to the gas station and to pep boys to get spark plugs...