2000 tl Rear Rotors...HELP!!!
#1
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2000 tl Rear Rotors...HELP!!!
Hello everybody, dont really know if I am suppose to start a new thread on this or if their is one already, but I am lookin all over her for a post on pictures on step by step how to change rear breaks and rotors, if anyone can please post the link for it or post it I would greatly appricate it, Thank You
#2
its the same as the fronts except leave parking brake OFF
the park brake is a small set of drum brakes that live inside the center hub of the rotor= thats why its so wide!
Use an impact screwdriver to remove the 2 rotor retaining screws
expect to use excessive force if corrossion present on hub to rotor contact
See the brake DIY for tips on getting the rotors off, look in main listing for gen2 TL and its the first thing listed, DIYs
On install- put the rotor ONLY,on and rotate- you should hear a drag of the park brake shoes
Tighten them with the star wheel thru the hole in rotor
Should drag just a bit, or tighten till you cant turn wheel and back off 6-8 clicks
Now put the bracket and pads on
Lube all contact points
I always say to flush the brake fluid BEFORE the brake work- so all old crud is pushed OUT of the lines, instead of backwashing the fluid when you compress the caliper piston!
Note- the piston does NOT need to go all the way in- just enough to clear the new parts
USe DOT 3 or DOT4 brake fluid- flushing is bleeding the brakes without the worry of air bubbles, you just add new fluid and push old fluid out
Should be done EVERY year starting at year 3 of cars life
the park brake is a small set of drum brakes that live inside the center hub of the rotor= thats why its so wide!
Use an impact screwdriver to remove the 2 rotor retaining screws
expect to use excessive force if corrossion present on hub to rotor contact
See the brake DIY for tips on getting the rotors off, look in main listing for gen2 TL and its the first thing listed, DIYs
On install- put the rotor ONLY,on and rotate- you should hear a drag of the park brake shoes
Tighten them with the star wheel thru the hole in rotor
Should drag just a bit, or tighten till you cant turn wheel and back off 6-8 clicks
Now put the bracket and pads on
Lube all contact points
I always say to flush the brake fluid BEFORE the brake work- so all old crud is pushed OUT of the lines, instead of backwashing the fluid when you compress the caliper piston!
Note- the piston does NOT need to go all the way in- just enough to clear the new parts
USe DOT 3 or DOT4 brake fluid- flushing is bleeding the brakes without the worry of air bubbles, you just add new fluid and push old fluid out
Should be done EVERY year starting at year 3 of cars life
#4
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Thread Starter
Just another question, As long as I have the park break off, then the rear rotors will come off? Because I did this a couple of years ago and had a problem with it, so I just wanna be sure
#5
they should~ but many people find they are stuck pretty good- use the method with the other 2 holes and 2 bolts- there is info on DIY and pull the rotor free, or be prepared to hit it on the face and center near the hub with a deadblow hammer if possible- set up vibrations is the idea, and shoot some liquid wrench-wd40 type stuff at the center- look at the new rotors and see where they will contact the axle hub- that gets stuck
Some will say the park brakes get adjusted out too far and hang up- thats not a reality I have encountered- but if so, the star wheel can be adjusted to loosen the shoes too
Some will say the park brakes get adjusted out too far and hang up- thats not a reality I have encountered- but if so, the star wheel can be adjusted to loosen the shoes too
#6
just when you are ready to give up----- they will come loose
Or it will be a breeze from the start!
Impact screwdriver will make fast work of the 2 retainer screws- if they get damaged its ok- not required
Or it will be a breeze from the start!
Impact screwdriver will make fast work of the 2 retainer screws- if they get damaged its ok- not required
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#8
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Be ready for the possibility of drilling out those retaining screws. In a lot of cases, they are seized in there. I had to drill ALL of them out when replacing my rotors. Not fun.
#9
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You may need to pull the rubber plug off the rotor and swing the rotor to the bottom. Then look inside and look for a spur looking thing (the brake shoe adjuster) and turn it to loosen the tension on the rear parking brake.
#10
iirc- you have to move the adjuster wheel in a `downward motion` to retract into itself- and release tension on the park brake shoes
Its rare for that to be the cause BUT its a possiblity.
Rotate the rotor and listen for shoe drag inside- thats a tell
Its rare for that to be the cause BUT its a possiblity.
Rotate the rotor and listen for shoe drag inside- thats a tell
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