knice

My tls is making a metal chattering noise in reverse which I first thought was the tranny but then realized the noise goes away when I take my foot of the pedal whilst still in reverse. I know this is my pads or rotors being warped.

Car has 100k and the rear rotors are original. I just wonder if I should spend extra money and get performance / greater stopping power rotors for the rear like the ebc drilled/slotted ones that are in the front. I know rear rotors don't carry the majority of the braking load so I wonder your opinion.

Thinking about just buying average daily commuter rear rotors unless someone thinks I should go for the performance ones to match the front.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

basically; slotted rotors are for aesthetics only.
"they" say slotted rotors perform better, but on the street daily driving, you will never feel the perceived difference

if money is tight, I would get a blank rotor and call it a day.


Now, if money is no object and you want the rear rotors to look cool through your wheels, then purchase some slotted rotors!

comet24

Have you pulled the tires and checked the brakes. Take a look at the parking brake.

I like the EDC slotted rotors for the front. They do make a huge difference in prevented rotors from warping on these cars. Not sure I would put them on the back unless I was having warping issues there. Check everything out before you start buying parts.

Warped rotors will make the steering wheel vibrate when stopping.

TacoBello

it's not worth putting slotted or drilled rotors on your car. I assure you, you will never drive your car hard enough to see any benefit from them. They actually even worsen your braking. Why? because those slots and holes result in less pad surface to touch.


Cars like BMWs, Porsches, MBs, Ferraris, Lambos, etc, can get away with drilled rotors from the factory, because they have HUGE rotors to begin with and the engineers carefully calculated that lost surface area into their equations.


Those grooves and dimples or whatever you want to call them do potentially help with reducing brake temperatures, but for you to get any use out of them, you have to be braking HARD, consistently, time and time again, like you would at a race track. Around the city, they'll never make a difference, besides potentially giving you a bit of vibration feedback through the steering wheel and pedal as you brake.


The only thing you can easily do to improve braking is put harder biting brake pads on. But be warned- they WILL create more brake dust. There's no two ways about it.


It's all for looks. Nothing else.

the-G-ride

As everyone else says, It's basically a preference thing. I bought EBC slotted and dimpled rotors for the front and back. To me it seemed like night and day difference over the blanks but I never conducted any test to find out how much better the stopping power was. So maybe it was all in my mind.

What I do know is that I push my car really really hard and there have been numerous times where my brakes have saved my ass and I would thank myself for purchasing them.

When I need new rotors I'll go the same route with the slotted and dimpled. It's over kill for a car that never sees the track but it eases my mind knowing that I have the stopping power when I need it. Plus it looks really cool.

TacoBello

There is literally no way your car braked better with simply adding slotted/dimpled rotors. Did you replace the pads? It was likely a more aggressive pad that helped with stopping. That, or it's the "butt dyno" effect.

"I put money into the car. It HAS to be better now!"

the-G-ride

When I first purchased the rotors I went with EBC yellows and my second set I now have are EBC red pads. Those things stop on a dime....I did say it could have been all in my mind though.

Skirmich

Stock Sized Rotors themselves do not help to stop the car faster but the Brake Pads do...
Specially the EBC Yellows which is a TRACK PAD, Lots of dust and eats through the rotor like it was candy, pad-life is ridiculous low but it does outperform and ultimately shorts the stopping distances by the shit load, They are also virtually brake fade resistant.

Rotors unless they are being oversized cannot help with stopping distances, Dimpled or Slotted & Drilled only help when you are pushing the car (Lots of downhill driving, Touge, Track days) they help a lot with brake fade but that's it. Only when you are really pushing the car. If you are expecting them to be any good at Daily Driving don't even bother with rotors, get better brake pads! Specially EBC Red Stuff! They are less aggressive than yellows so they are kinder with the rotors but they do not dust like maniacs like yellows and have a decent pad-life, they do suffer from brake fade when pushed hard but there has to be a middle point.. They are more comfortable as daily drivers.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Lot of generalized information in this thread...

There is no way for slotted/drilled brakes to reduce stopping distance. If you feel a difference, it's probably because your old brake setup was worn (which is why you replaced them I'm guessing).

Also, stopping distance in our cars is largely limited by our tires. You can slam the brakes with the stock setup and the discs will lock, so having better brakes won't stop you faster.

Skirmich

Do they lock on the TL-p? not on the TL-S.. Perhaps on badly maintained roads but surely not in good well kept roads.
Skip to 2:28 here

SuperGreg

Obviously with ABS they won't "lock" but mine will definitely chirp if I slam the brakes on, which I just did the other day because a dog ran out in front of my car. Still tagged him right on the corner of my bumper

Skirmich

Oh yes a little lock is not beyond question I myself have chirped the tires under sudden emergency braking but FULL LOCKING as in beyond 5 feet lock is not normal... When I had the Yellow Stuff and Track my car they would certainly mini-Lock more than usual but the car never felt uncontrolled or dangerous because of it.. VSA was doing an Excellent Job keeping the car straight even when the wheels were mini-Locking.