When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Another quick update... Was able to successfully install the timing belt and also put new sparkplugs and coils in. I did a test drive and the car ran fine. I also did not notice any leaks where there was one previously (top of the water pump assembly). I only tested it with water for now as I did not want to waste coolant in case it was still leaking. Tomorrow I will flush the radiator and put the coolant in. I also noticed that now I have the check engine on light again so I will scan the car and see what codes are showing... I also see that the cabin fan is on all the time. Even when I shut the system off the fan continues to blow what appears to be max speed. I'm guessing it's a relay but I'm not sure...
I also see that the cabin fan is on all the time. Even when I shut the system off the fan continues to blow what appears to be max speed. I'm guessing it's a relay but I'm not sure...
You were right Zeta. It was the resistor. I was able to get one for $5 from a a car someone was junking and parting out. Now the fan works as expected! Thank you for a great advice and a cheap way to fixing it!
I thought that I would update this thread to kind of close it off. So it turned out that the head gasket was blown and the coolant was bubbling and boiling over. I ended up replacing the head gasket myself. I tried to resurface the heads myself because they were warped beyond the installation limit but ended up sanding way too much and it was not possible to reuse them again! Lesson learned, just take it to a machine shop and have them do it for you. Well worth the time and money and endless frustration. Anyway, I ended up getting used heads which I was able to pull from another vehicle that someone else was parting out. Here comes another sub story with that. My car is 2003 with J32A1 engine and I pulled the heads from 99 Acura but also with J32A1 engine. They are not the same. The intake manifold is slightly different and the valves (both intake and exhaust are smaller in diameter). Otherwise the heads fit exactly the same and all other pieces that go around the heads fit exactly the same. Anyway, I swapped the heads and after installing everything and putting it back together, the car runs great. At this point I basically rebuilt most of the engine from upper half up giving it a new water pump, timing belt, new gaskets and seals on all the pieces that I touched during removal. I also put in new sparkplugs, coils and cleaned the injectors. I installed the water pump better than it was before (it was slightly loose) and added more steering fluid. With all this work, I think the car is ready for another 60k miles without any major maintenance required other than the usual of brakes, oil, etc.
Overall it was fun and I learned a ton on how to do this kind of work. Also, it goes without saying that I saved several thousand dollars worth of labor that it would have cost to do this.
After fixing my car recently I now realized that the car has a weird starting issue. I'm attaching a video for those of you who might figure this out by listening to what is happening.
Here are the symptoms. I turn the key over and the car clicks but no start. I do that random amount of times and eventually the car starts right up. I took care of the usual suspect such as I put in a new battery and I also tried a different (brand new) power relay. I really don't know what it might be because after a few tries the car always starts. Also, there are times that it just starts on the first try, actually that happens quite often. I know it is not a fuel pump or the starter themselves as like I said, the car always ends up starting. One more thing that I noticed is when I turn the key when the car does not start you can kind of hear like a whining noise but I'm guessing that is a fuel pump running.
Anyway, I'm really dumbfounded here, I don't know where to look to see where the culprit might be... Hope someone can shed some light on this...
Well, I thought I was attaching the video but it did not work It looks like I'm unable to do that for whatever reason as the upload button is greyed out...
Thanks for linking my two threads @thoiboi I guess I did not realize that this would create confusion. My fixing the car and this are two different issues but I guess if it makes it easier to show them as related then it's cool!
Anyway, as advised, I've created a YouTube video to my issue. There are two starting attempts. In the first one the car starts on the third try and in the second attempt the car starts on the second try. Please check it out....
Well, it's still hard to tell from your video but the "clunk" does sounds fairly loud so that might be the solenoid clicking on.
Make sure the connections at the starter are solid. You can easily get to the solenoid. You'll see the big cable from the battery (under the cap and a small wire that comes from the ignition switch. If you use a jumper from the battery + to the small wire, the starter should crank over. If you get the same behavior, that points to the starter/solenoid being bad. If you have a voltmeter (DC) or a 12v test light, you can connect it to the small wire (not the big wire) and ground. When you turn the key to START you should consistently read 12v (or light).
The ignition wire is the one in red. The battery cable is in yellow.
Quick update... So I did do the jump wire between the ignition switch and the battery positive terminal. I got the same behavior. It would crank sometimes and sometimes it would not at all. When it wouldn't crank, you would hear the fairly noticeable clunk like noise. That sounds like it is the started so I'm gonna have to replace it. One note of caution. Make sure to remove the 15amp breaker for the fuel pump. Otherwise when you do the starting test, you start the engine. With the breaker removed, you will only get the cranking but the engine will not actually start. Anyway, I will report back once I get the started replaced...
Another update, I changed the starter and no more starting issues. It starts every time! Also, it was easy to change, maybe one hour total of work...
However, I have another issue. The pesky SRS lights keeps coming on! I reset it but it came back. I cleaned the contacts in the seatbelt buckle after taking it apart, reset the light and it came back again!
Anyone has any idea on how to troubleshoot what the source of the SRS light is? I don't wanna keep on resetting the light and it makes no difference and it just keeps on coming back. Any suggestions would be appreciated...
Another update, I changed the starter and no more starting issues. It starts every time! Also, it was easy to change, maybe one hour total of work...
However, I have another issue. The pesky SRS lights keeps coming on! I reset it but it came back. I cleaned the contacts in the seatbelt buckle after taking it apart, reset the light and it came back again!
Anyone has any idea on how to troubleshoot what the source of the SRS light is? I don't wanna keep on resetting the light and it makes no difference and it just keeps on coming back. Any suggestions would be appreciated...
It is more than likely the seat belt buckle causing issues. I looked into why this happens, and had planned on making a thread on it, but never did.
The issue is that the switch goes bad. What happens is when the switch is pressed down, it'll sometimes activate, sometimes won't, and often turns on/off rapidly. I tested all this when I did my 6 speed swap, including using a multi meter. I think I measured the resistance, or something, I don't remember. But I remember the power constantly going up and down when pushing the switch in, and compared it with a switch I knew was good, where it was a steady constant power flow.
Essentially, the switch is bad in the buckle itself. What I did find, was that they actually replaced the switch with a newer and better design in the 6 speeds. Another finding was that one of those switches (I think the ones that go bad) are cherry switches. The same 'Cherry' company who makes keyboard switches for mechanical keyboards. I tried contacting them to see if I could get the same part, but talking to some one, that part number doesn't even exist.
So you have two options here, really. Pull another seatbelt buckle, or switch. from a junk car and swap it in and hope it's not bad, or take it to an Acura dealer and have them service it for free.
Thanks for the reply @Thefireball. I have opened my buckle clip and I have a different design. The button assembly is horizontal and not vertical like in this example. However, that in itself should not make that much of a difference. One thing that makes me think though is that when I previously put it back together incorrectly, the seatbelt light would stay on, indicating that the switch was not depressed when buckled in. Once I fixed it, the light goes off after I buckle in. That would indicate to me that the switch is working correctly. However, maybe it is possible that the switch is pressed and it will turn off the seatbelt light off but the SRS light will stay on? Is that a possibility here?
Thanks for the reply @Thefireball. I have opened my buckle clip and I have a different design. The button assembly is horizontal and not vertical like in this example. However, that in itself should not make that much of a difference. One thing that makes me think though is that when I previously put it back together incorrectly, the seatbelt light would stay on, indicating that the switch was not depressed when buckled in. Once I fixed it, the light goes off after I buckle in. That would indicate to me that the switch is working correctly. However, maybe it is possible that the switch is pressed and it will turn off the seatbelt light off but the SRS light will stay on? Is that a possibility here?
If you listen in when I press the driver's side switch in, it sometimes activated, sometimes doesn't, and double clicks. I'd imagine it acting up like that triggers something in the SRS system that it registers it as a fault and triggers the SRS light. I did manage to get the SRS light eventually doing this.
But as the reply above said, I took recommend getting a scanner that can read SRS codes. I need one myself for this CL I converted to an automatic lol.
Yeah, I believe that there is a switch or a sensor on the seat belt tensioner. When I was playing with it and pressed the buckle button, I would hear it click right on the bottom where the seatbelt meets the floor. I don't have a scanner but I can do the SRS light blinking test to see what code I will get. I believe if you short pin 4 and 9 on the ODB port, you will put that light in the blinking mode. I'm planning on doing that tonight and see if I can get the codes that way...
Yeah, I believe that there is a switch or a sensor on the seat belt tensioner. When I was playing with it and pressed the buckle button, I would hear it click right on the bottom where the seatbelt meets the floor. I don't have a scanner but I can do the SRS light blinking test to see what code I will get. I believe if you short pin 4 and 9 on the ODB port, you will put that light in the blinking mode. I'm planning on doing that tonight and see if I can get the codes that way...
I've been trying to search up how to check SRS codes by shorting some pins, but have come up short finding a thread on it. Let me know if that works, because the VSA light on this converted CL won't go off, and it's making it a tough sale. Getting rid of that VSA light will definitely help with selling it.
I've been trying to search up how to check SRS codes by shorting some pins, but have come up short finding a thread on it. Let me know if that works, because the VSA light on this converted CL won't go off, and it's making it a tough sale. Getting rid of that VSA light will definitely help with selling it.
That was my issue when searching for this topic. I kept getting threads for the 3Gs, and not 2Gs. Good to know the same method works on the 2G though. Will give this a try.
That was my issue when searching for this topic. I kept getting threads for the 3Gs, and not 2Gs. Good to know the same method works on the 2G though. Will give this a try.
heck the thread i found was on TSXclub but it worked on the Honda Pilot .. so Honda cross-compatibility for the win
I just did it and it worked. I was able to pull the code by shorting pin 4 and 9 on the ODB port. The code I pulled was 15-3 faulty OPDS sensor. I did the reset the light and did the reinitialization procedure by turning the engine on for 1 minute, off for 1 minute and doing a total of 3 cycles of these. For now, the light has not come back on. However, I have not driven the car yet since right now is sitting on jack stands waiting for new front rotors to arrive which I will replace this week. Once I do, I will do a test drive and see if the light comes back on. I guess I should do a test drive with and without a passenger seat occupied to see how the sensor behaves and if the light comes back on...
I just did it and it worked. I was able to pull the code by shorting pin 4 and 9 on the ODB port. The code I pulled was 15-3 faulty OPDS sensor. I did the reset the light and did the reinitialization procedure by turning the engine on for 1 minute, off for 1 minute and doing a total of 3 cycles of these. For now, the light has not come back on. However, I have not driven the car yet since right now is sitting on jack stands waiting for new front rotors to arrive which I will replace this week. Once I do, I will do a test drive and see if the light comes back on. I guess I should do a test drive with and without a passenger seat occupied to see how the sensor behaves and if the light comes back on...
Back in the day, there was a warranty extension announcement regarding the OPDS.
Originally Posted by Acura's_Crown
DATE: April 5, 2006
TO: All Acura Sales, Service & Parts Managers
FROM: American Honda Service Division
RE: Warranty Extension Announcement
On March 2, 2006, we announced an OPDS (occupant position detection system) warranty extension for certain 2001–03 3.2CLs, 2001–02 MDXs, 1999–03 3.5RLs, selected 2004 RLs, 2002–04 RSXs, and 2000–03 3.2TLs.
Some affected vehicles may have a problem with the OPDS that causes the SRS indicator to stay on with one or more SRS DTCs. To ensure continued reliability with the OPDS, affected vehicles have an extended warranty on the OPDS unit and the OPDS sensor. These parts are now covered for 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
Customer Notification
Approximately 480,000 vehicles are affected by this warranty extension. Notifications will start mailing on April 7, 2006, at a rate of 5,000 letters per day, and will span a 60-day period.
Even though the daily mail rate is quite large, it will have little or no impact on your service department because the only vehicles needing inspection and/or possible repair are those returned by clients with the specific complaint of an SRS indicator that won’t go off. For detailed repair, VIN, and warranty information, see S/B 06-008, Warranty Extension: OPDS Unit or OPDS Sensor Triggers SRSDTC(s) 15-1, 15-2, 15-3.
I am out of extended warranty period since the car has over 210000 miles on it. I'm hoping that the reset will work. If not, I will have to do something about it myself...
Another update... so I reset the SRS light and at this point it has not come back for a few days. However, I have not driven yet with a passenger in the car, just me alone so I'm not sure. I will have to try that and see if that makes any difference.
Another issue I'm working on is steering wheel shaking when I brake at higher speeds. I tried the usual suspects so I checked the pads and they are all good on each wheel with 80% left on them easily and they all ware very evenly. I changed the front rotors but that made no difference, I changed the rear rotors and that made no difference either. I also switched the rear tires to the front thinking that maybe there would be a difference due to weird misbalanced wheels. So far no difference. The next thing to check would be to see if there is anything loose anywhere. However, the car drives nicely, the wheels are aligned, the car does not pull to either side while braking and the wheel does not shake at all when driving. My next thing to try would be to rebuild the piston in the caliper because maybe it's sticking... I'm not 100% sure though as it went in easily when I was checking the brakes... One more thing to do would be to go to a tire place and have the rebalance the wheels anyway. Not sure if this would help but it would eliminate one more possibility.
Anyway, if anyone has any other ideas, I'm all ears.
You checked and changed all the usual suspects. One item I can think of is air in one of the brake lines causing the shuddering. Also, if the brake fluid is old and contaminated it can cause strange braking issues.
I think the next thing I will try is to do wheel balancing. It is possible that this is causing the issue. However, I do not feel anything while driving in a straight line or even at high speeds. The car behaves normally. Also, the steering vibrations are a lot more pronounced when I gently touch the brake pedal at high speeds. If I got harder on the brakes, you can still certainly feel it but it's not as dramatic. Also, I do not feel the brake pedal pulsating when I press it at any time and at any speed, it is just the steering wheel that vibrates.
When you had the brakes apart, did you change the pads? If pads are glazed over it can cause vibration when using light brake pressure. Also, when you had them apart did you pull out the guide pins and clean all the old grease and then re-grease them? It only takes a little grease but if the old grease starts to dry out, or is contaminated the pins might not move freely enough causing the uneven braking and steering vibration. I also assume you inspected the control arms and shocks and didn't see any shock fluid leaks or control arm bends or loose bolts.
I did not change the pads as they are almost new and very evenly worn. However, I'm not sure how to tell if they are glazed. I did clean them using isopropyl alcohol. I pulled all the guide pins from all four calipers, cleaned them and greased them very well and checked that they move easily. I checked the wheels by tugging on them from all sides and did not feel anything loose. I also checked the control arms and they looked normal, there was no fluid leaks anywhere and the rubber boots look almost new like someone changed them fairly recently. Anyway, I know that the car was hit from the side causing a deep dent in the driver side rear door. However, I did not see anything bent or out of normal on the studs or on the surface where the wheel meets the wheel axle. Anyway, I'm starting to run out of ideas other than going to do the wheel balancing and if that does not work, I think I would do the brake fluid flush and also clean the caliper cylinders as I got a repair kit for those to try it out...
Running out of ideas. Glazed pads can happen on even if they are almost new. Usually you have to get rid of them as this occurs when they overheat and actually change the bonding in the material making them smooth and glass like. In this case take them out and sand them with some rough sandpaper (say 80 -120 grit) then put them back and see if the problem is better or no change. Cheap test to eliminate one potential part. Push up and down on each side and see if the shock behave the same. I would look under the shock boot (near the bottom of the boots) to see if there is a hint of liquid. Tire can be out of round. Other than those I got nothing else at the moment.
My guess is the wheels and/or tires. Either bent or unbalanced wheels, or tires need to be replaced. What speeds do the shaking occur at? I'm in the same boat currently. I get shaking in my steering wheel starting at around 80mph. Gets better at around 100mph. I know at least one of my wheels are bent, as I saw it for myself moving left and right on the machine. But I also know I need new tires, because they're almost bald on both edges.
However, my original shaking was far worse and take me forever to figure out. You wouldn't happen to have wheel spacers on, would you? I doubt it. I did, so my wheels cleared my calipers. Problem was, they were the crappy universal AutoZone ones, so they never say properly on the hub, throwing the balance off. Got some hub centric spacers, and now that shaking has been fixed.
The steering wheel does not shake during driving. It only shakes while braking at high speeds. Anyway, I took the pads out and they were pretty badly glazed. I sanded them down and they looked much better but when I put them back the car behaved exactly the same so no change at all. So does that mean that it is the pads and I have to change them?
Was worth a shot. Since there was no improvement in the vibration I would just put them back on if there are no signs of overheating. If the car wasn't raced or doing donuts, etc. they are probably fine. I really think you need to get the tires checked out. High speed balancing would be best. The old bubble balancing we used to do (I don't know if anyone even does this anymore) won't cut it for this problem.
Yup, I got my appointment already set on line for this week. When they do the balancing, I will ask them to inspect the tires and see what they say. BTW, would air in the brake lines have the ability to cause this as well? I'm thinking if the lines were not bled properly or air got into the system somehow... I think I would have more problems at all kinds of speeds but I'm not sure...
I can see that happening if you had a small amount of air in one of the lines causing a lighter pressure in one caliper. Can't recall if the TL has some kind of proportioning valve or not, this would give a kind of separate line that wouldn't effect the rest of the system.
So I went to balance my wheels and that did not make any difference. I was told that one of the rims was a little bent but they were still able to balance it. I also swapped that slightly bent rim to the back so I know that my front rims are straight. I also noticed that the pads got glazed again after being used so I'm thinking that it has to be the rotor (I put the old one back one) that makes the pads glazed. I will change the rotors again, put the new pads back on and see what happens. I also checked the fluid level and it was at full. However, from the color (a little hard to tell for sure) it appears like it might be a little old. I have a new bottle of fluid so maybe I will flush that too just to give it a fresh start. However, if all this does not help then I will be a little baffled since I've tried pretty much everything I can think of.
03-02-2024, 08:09 PM
It looks like I'm unable to do that for whatever reason as the upload button is greyed out...
