wheel hop = frustration
#1
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
wheel hop = frustration
I need to figure out a cost efficient way to eliminate my wheel hop. I raced a car last night and I lost mainly due to wheel hop and the fact that air keeps getting in my clutch lines, and its not releasing properly.
anyhow, I had an nrg engine damper and I already broke that.
I am lowered on eibach pro kit and that all as far as suspension goess. I think I night have blown my motor mounts but I haven't confirmed that yet.
any ideas. thanks guys.
anyhow, I had an nrg engine damper and I already broke that.
I am lowered on eibach pro kit and that all as far as suspension goess. I think I night have blown my motor mounts but I haven't confirmed that yet.
any ideas. thanks guys.
#3
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
of course it wasn't. other wise that would have been a main selling point.
are cars weren't made for a lot of things that we do to them. either way I have wheel hop and its annoying.
plus I don't drag race on the steet I compete with other street cars to see who can get to th speed limit before the other. even if the speed limit is 35 mph.
but back to topic. would you happen to know how to eliminate it. if not then don't bother taking up space.
are cars weren't made for a lot of things that we do to them. either way I have wheel hop and its annoying.
plus I don't drag race on the steet I compete with other street cars to see who can get to th speed limit before the other. even if the speed limit is 35 mph.
but back to topic. would you happen to know how to eliminate it. if not then don't bother taking up space.
#4
Senior Moderator
welcome to the club.. Mine has gotten far better since lowering it. I still need to get better new mounts. My front has been shot since about 20k miles after the swap. Im waiting for the new batch of Innovative mounts
What shocks do you have?
Motor mounts are a big one. Do you have the engine dampeners?
What shocks do you have?
Motor mounts are a big one. Do you have the engine dampeners?
#5
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
I have one stock one that I replaced with the nrg one. but tha shit broke probably because of the torque.
I have stock shocks. and I know I need new mounts but those innovative mounts are expensive. but probably more then worth it.
its so annoying though.
any idea on the clutch lines?
I have stock shocks. and I know I need new mounts but those innovative mounts are expensive. but probably more then worth it.
its so annoying though.
any idea on the clutch lines?
#6
Low and Slow
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Like fsttyms1 said, those innovative motor mounts will probably help a ton. They are expensive, but from the people that have purchased and installed I've heard mostly only good things.
That sucks about the NRG damper though. I was looking forward to one of those.
Also if you are on stock shocks I would definitely think about replacing those in the near future. Tokiko, Bilstein etc...
That sucks about the NRG damper though. I was looking forward to one of those.
Also if you are on stock shocks I would definitely think about replacing those in the near future. Tokiko, Bilstein etc...
#7
Senior Moderator
the stock shocks are probably part of the cause. While you think they are fine the dampening ability and rebound ability are probably greatly diminished. Better shocks will help.
And yes the mounts are expensive but they serve a purpose. The motor is moving around too much which is whats helping to cause the hop.
What do you want to know about the clutch lines??
And yes the mounts are expensive but they serve a purpose. The motor is moving around too much which is whats helping to cause the hop.
What do you want to know about the clutch lines??
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#8
Drifting
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I agree with what others have said, as bad as Innovative has done with their first batch of mounts, once they come around with a new one that would be the way to go. I noticed yesterday when I took off from a light I got this horrible thumping like the engine fell out or something, the car still took off, but it was worrysome.
#9
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
for some reason air keeps getting in the line. I have bled it many times and it keeps doing it. I checked all lines and they are tght. I think it may be the slave cylinder.
#10
Drifting
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I've replaced the slave cylinder at least once on every Honda/Acura I've owned. Seems to be a consistent weak link. Luckily it's a quick and easy job and the part isn't too expensive. I just wish they'd put a teflon cap on the end of the piston where it engages the throw out fork. They all start creaking after a while and greasing it is only a temporary fix.
#11
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
id hate to hav to replace it just cause I thought I was done with all that shit, but I better have it done right then kepp having problems. I just want to ensure that's what it is.
#12
Senior Moderator
If all the lines are tight its probably the slave like mentioned above.
#16
Senior Moderator
Im every bit as fast starting out in 2nd as opposed to 1st (in my opinion) with a good launch and get no wheel hop.
#17
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
it seems slower in second as far as starting goes, but your probably right as far as the time length due to wheel hop and shifting. I never thought about that. it just seems better to start in first, and its fun to peel out in second...... not just chirp.
#18
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
If all the lines are tight its probably the slave like mentioned above.
do you think?
#19
Senior Moderator
You may have extended it too far and damaged teh seal?
#20
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
i really should be working but im in class, and there is a comp so im making the best of it. Computer based training is awesome.
Damn FedEx classes.
Damn FedEx classes.
#21
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
if extending it to far will do that then consider what i did raping the seal. the whole plunger came out. lol...... im retarded.
#22
Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
or c32 something like that. it was a supercharged v6 with 349 hp
#23
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
oh i know.... I lost anyway, but honestly it was only by maybe a car length. Frank was with me and we both couldnt believe it. And he was trying, i could here is engine whining.
Even without wheelhop I would have lost, but I could have taken him off the line.... guaranteed.
im sure frank can chime in on this
Even without wheelhop I would have lost, but I could have taken him off the line.... guaranteed.
im sure frank can chime in on this
#25
Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
youre a tl owner but not a tl-s 6 speed owner.... no offense
#27
OMGWTFVTEC
Hell, I was really surprised when we kept up as good as we did. Still, the C32 was an auto (i checked online, only auto). I didnt think Mike would race him, after i told him it was a supercharged V6. but he did... wheelhop, misshift and all! their quick, but we got no more than a carlength away from him at most.
Mike you idiot! good job on the whole plunger/breaking seal thing. lol
I wonder how my car would of done against it now...
Mike you idiot! good job on the whole plunger/breaking seal thing. lol
I wonder how my car would of done against it now...
#29
Drifting
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The slave cylinder is only like $50 bucks (I didn't look it up so don't quote me, but it's not real expensive) and it takes about 10 minutes to swap plus maybe 10 minutes of bleeding. It'll be absolutely worth it in the end.
If you popped the piston out and weren't real careful when you put it back in there's a good chance you nicked the o-ring. It's a real tight fit and you have to be very gentle in getting them back in. It's often impossible to get a used o-ring back in without damaging it due the fact that it's stretched out and has lost some elasticity. You might be able to just replace the o-ring but it'd be easier and more likely successful to replace the whole thing.
If you popped the piston out and weren't real careful when you put it back in there's a good chance you nicked the o-ring. It's a real tight fit and you have to be very gentle in getting them back in. It's often impossible to get a used o-ring back in without damaging it due the fact that it's stretched out and has lost some elasticity. You might be able to just replace the o-ring but it'd be easier and more likely successful to replace the whole thing.
#30
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
yeah then thats what ill do. Hope it fixes the problem...... but the wheel hop is going to cost me.
Im gonna hvae to get those innovative mounts, glad i didnt do the group buy after hearing the fitment issue.
Hopefully they get done with the new batch soon. breaking dampers isnt cool.
Im gonna hvae to get those innovative mounts, glad i didnt do the group buy after hearing the fitment issue.
Hopefully they get done with the new batch soon. breaking dampers isnt cool.
#31
Senior Moderator
do you see any fluid leaking? there is one other spot that could be causing it, the clutch master cyl. Look to see where the plunger comes thru the firewall for any fluid spots there as well before replacing any thing.
#32
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
ok ill check that. I have looked previously and have not found fluid leaking. I hope its the clutch master cylinder...... I have a spare.
#33
OMGWTFVTEC
Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
idiot huh...lol....
your car would have been weighed measured and found wanting.
but then again my car was too...lol.
your car would have been weighed measured and found wanting.
but then again my car was too...lol.
#35
Originally Posted by deevel79
I dont think the Tl was designed with street drag racing in mind.
#37
maybe you're not launching correctly? whats your launching technique, or do you just take off?
other tips esp if you're an auto.. dont use 1 foot... put one on the brake and the other one on the accelerator. every second matter even switching feet
other tips esp if you're an auto.. dont use 1 foot... put one on the brake and the other one on the accelerator. every second matter even switching feet
#38
COTM Coordinator
Thread Starter
Im a manual. my technique is go. I dont rev up then drop clutch, ill just spin and hop like a bunny. when green, clutch out, gas in. and i still hop and spin.
#39
OMGWTFVTEC
Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
yeah yeah yeah,...... i still beat you with out vtec... lol
haha
i say you add like 50lb weights on both sides in the front of your car. that might help keep the wheel hop to a minimum
#40
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i kno this a late entry in the post but from past experience the best way to get rid of most of that wheel hop is adjustable struts. i had a gs-r before and everytime i pull second i fall back a car from all that wheel hop and chatter. got a set of adjustable struts set them stiff in the back medium in the front and believe it or not couldnt even cherp second gear anymore. just wouldnt recommend riding around all day like that unless u have a big chest gurl next you