whats needed to change the oil pan?
 

i have a 2001 with a busted oil pan im looking to swap myself.

anyone ever do this that can tell me what i should encounter. and also what i need.

im guessing i need the oil pan and just the gasket/ sealant? did you guys lower ur subframe for this?

im not crazy car saavy but i can do some easy things like an air suspension setup, headers, paint a car..etcetc..so im guessing it wont be too hard. let me know otherwise.

I was told to use copper RTV as a sealant for the oil pan. It's pretty easy, but I've never actually done it with the engine in the car, but it shouldn't be too hard. I know the J-pipe will be in the way, you might want to unbolt at the headers. I'm sure someone will chime in.

I had to pull my oil pan to get my turbo return line drilled and fitting installed.

thanks for the input assclown.
when you removed your oil pan, did you use the same gasket and did you add anything else? also, did you torque your pan (how much rq if so)

anything else tricky with pulling it down or was it straight simple?

no, you have to make your own gasket with the RTV. Here is what the service manual says:

Attachment 53153


you are going to have to remove your torque converter inspection plate and the two bottom bell housing bolts (they are secured to the oil pan)

Where are the bell housing bolts located?

I removed all oil pan bolts including the two under the plate. Working in the snow right now please call 714-260-7694 if anyone can help.

just did this and it sucked, good luck

that should be it. Two bell housing bolts that connect the oil pan to the transmission, your torque converter inspection plate, and then all of the oil pan bolts. then take a pry bar and pry that shit off, the old gasket will have it stuck on there.

first time ever i tried to fix a car and could not complete the job...so sad.

turns out the subframe bent up (from when i fucked around with having air suspension) and it held the pan in. i have to take it to a shop to drop the frame and do it.

UNLESS...could i drop part of the frame (where the lower part of the pan is)

anyone have advice for that or should i take it to a shop?

btw, this is what im working with.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5896086_n.jpg

I dunno what to tell ya man. Like I said, I changed oil pans while the engine was out of the car. I hope you had luck last night!

I havent dropped the subframe on this car, but I have dropped it on other cars before, its not that hard...Just take your time...
Try talking to Rajca, I believe he has dropped the subframe on these cars before...

I personally wouldn;t take it to a shop...With the cost of Tow and repair bill, thats enough motivation for me to do it myself.

I have dropped the subframe a few times, but that was at the dealership my brother works at so it was easier. Can't tell you what i'd do without lifts though.

When I dropped it, the car was on jackstands, I can only imagine how much easier everything would be with a lift.

towed it to a shop $360 for labor. subframe was bent and twisted..and cracked from previous accident (not me)

also, found the front motor mount to be split in two. didnt replace the subframe or mount tho. hope itll be aroudn with the broken mount.

Hello yall!!!

Thanks so much for the advice and diagram from above....

... God blessed me with a cooler than usual day (93 was the high) in which to work! The guy at Honda also helped me out on the ATV stuff so I was out of the door for about $163...I was quoted $533 by the dealer for the parts and labor... I just needed to save a buck really bad so I gave up my saturday, some sweat and tears...

... Yes, my son ran over something in the road.... his car sat for about 3 weeks before I had time to work on it... LOL

...did this repair by myself... so now I have a stiff neck and it took about 5 hours..... did not have to drop the cross member/ sub frame... did have to drop the J pipe way down ( this is the key) these are 11mm (as are the ones for the exhaust support that you need to drop...cannot remember what size opened ended wrench I needed for the o2 sensor (sorry) .... don't waste an hour messing with the manifold top side like I did ....:tongue:

:2cents: ... just one word of advice... DO get a torque wrench... my strong butt was almost done when I broke one of the last screws off... these are 10mm

Oil plug/ crush ring is 17mm

:what::yuck::tomato:

Is this something that can be done while on ramps versus on jack stands? I need to do this and I don't have stands. Also, where is the best place to get the oversize oil pan plug? Thanks in advance.

I hate to be such a pain but is this something that could possibly be done and use the same oil that came out? I just had an oil change done and Meineke also screwed up drain bolt and now I have leak there too but they are refusing to fix the bolt leak.

^I would replace the oil pan on jack stands and put fresh new oil

:agree:


If you support the car on jack stands you can support the trans with a jack and remove the front subframe very easily. That would also be the time to replace the front motor mount

Get your oil pan and all OEM parts for that matter from Del Rey Acura in Florida, they are much much cheaper.

What is the primary reason for the jack stands? Clearance? I don't know if I have access to jack stands and a jack good enough to lift the car high enough. Gotta get done though.

Oil pan's drain bolt leaking.......
 

:whyme: Hey Jtrothrock, if the drain bolt wasn't leaking prior to the Meineke oil change......go back to them and ask them how much it would cost to repair the drain plug. I'm sure that they run into this kinda stuff frequently and can offer a solution to fix it.

There are special replacement drain bolts designed for this purpose. As an option, the bolt's receiving threaded hole in the oil pan can be drilled and then install a helicoil insert into it. Meineke or another auto repair shop should be able to help ya out for a nominal charge, if ya don't have the time or resources to DIY. :2cents:

Thanks 3.2TLc but Meineke is out of the question. They messed up my battery and couldn't even get the maintenance light reset. When I said something to them they flipped out and turned it on me. I have a guy I will ask but was trying to save some money. I replaced the ps feed hose with it on ramps so didn't know if there was a particular reason they wouldn't suffice in this instance. Thanks for the advice.

Here's something of a last sort, Might just help a few.
I'm about to attempt this on my next oil change since mine is stripped.

Yeah, I saw that. Don't guess it would hurt doing that first before doing the oversize bolt. Anyone done this method before?