At last after 5 years of Problem Free TL Ride the HORROR...
My High Pressure Power Steering Line (Outlet Pump) decided to leak, And Leak Fast.. Not from the Gasket but the Line Itself.


Now Dealer wants almost 400$ Bucks (Part + Labor) To Replace which I think its way High.
I think this is an easy cake Job and decided to do it myself Bought the Line Already but I ran into a little Problem.

The Flare Nut that goes into the Rack (The One that Comes from the Pump Itself; High Pressure) its incredibly Tight and it wont Turn.
I tried to Soak it in WD40 and Bought some Nut Blaster to Try to loosen it to no Avail.

The Manual calls for 27ft-tq but this Nut is way beyond 50s overtighten So im Starting to strip the nut, This Worries Me.



Any Suggestions? A pal Say that I need an Special Tool Called "Flare Nut Wrench" which I dont have but ill try to Get it ASAP.

 

Flare nut wrench is like a box wrench but w an opening to slide the line through. You will get contact on 5 of 6 sides. Much better than open end wrench.

 

are the threads brass? making them reverse threads from normal direction?
ck fitting on new hose

flare nut wrench should be used on brake line fitting and these type fittings
anything you want a solid grip on all side possible - so they cant round
(back to that softer metal theory)

 

If you have a spare box wrench, you can always cut an opening into said wrench to allow it to slip over the line. Proper tool is best but when you need it now you can always modify things.

 

Yeah I looked over the Internet but thanks for Explaining!! Im getting it over Sears Today in a Craftsman Kit.




The Flare Nut is made of Steel, And the Rotation is Normal (Counter-Clockwise to Remove, Clock-Wise to Lock).
I almost rounded the Nut when I tried to do it with a Normal 2 side Wrench, I think I need a Better Grip hence: Flare Nut Wrench.






Yeah I actually tried to do that but It seems normal Rounded Wrenches arent strong enough in the Edges to withstand being cut, Mine actually opened when given torque so I need something a Little Stronger

 

FIRE!!!!

No, seriously, use some heat, but not too much, you'll damage the rack.

The right tools really help too, if the line wrench doesn't cut it alone, use some heat with it, move the nut back and forth a little so it starts to move, don't just try to wring it off, you really don't want to buy a new rack.....

 

Since your not trying to save the line, you could cut it and put a 6 point end wrench on the flare nut, preferably a flank contact type, and hit it with a hammer. It probably only needs
a little more torque.

 

X2. or if you cut the line close enough, just hammer a deep well 12 point socket slighty smaller than the nut onto it and should come off.