Wasted so much time working on the car...
08-18-2005, 12:21 AM
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Wasted so much time working on the car...
Today i had a day off so i decided to install the amplifier and the subwoofers into the car. I noticed it only takes longer when you can't find the right tools or the stupidest things like the chuck key for the drill machine.
Anyway, i installed the power and ground wires, need to connect the remote wire. Remote wire wasn't long enough, and i don't now which fuse it installs into in the fuse box, so i need help with that. Anyone, please help.
I also installed the pac converter(line-output converter for the bose factory) made by crutchfield. Is there anyway to know whether this unit is working and sending out a good signal? I have another one also.
I would also be happy with my factory sub except it crackles at low volume, any ideas what that could be? If the factory amp is blown would it be tough to replace? I already tried to replace the factory sub, didn't work.
Someone please help.
Anyway, i installed the power and ground wires, need to connect the remote wire. Remote wire wasn't long enough, and i don't now which fuse it installs into in the fuse box, so i need help with that. Anyone, please help.
I also installed the pac converter(line-output converter for the bose factory) made by crutchfield. Is there anyway to know whether this unit is working and sending out a good signal? I have another one also.
I would also be happy with my factory sub except it crackles at low volume, any ideas what that could be? If the factory amp is blown would it be tough to replace? I already tried to replace the factory sub, didn't work.
Someone please help.
08-18-2005, 01:40 AM
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2Poor 2Furious
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Yeah running wires are a pain especially if you try to make it look nice and clean.
Remote wire should be wired at the back of the stereo not at the fuse box. Someone else should be able to chime in with the exact wire, but usually the remote turn on wire is blue. It sends +12V when the stereo is on if you have a voltmeter to test it with.
It might worthwhile to take the signal for the amp at the wires before the factory amp. That signal should be good and not require the PAC converter altogether.
Remote wire should be wired at the back of the stereo not at the fuse box. Someone else should be able to chime in with the exact wire, but usually the remote turn on wire is blue. It sends +12V when the stereo is on if you have a voltmeter to test it with.
It might worthwhile to take the signal for the amp at the wires before the factory amp. That signal should be good and not require the PAC converter altogether.
08-18-2005, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by t0ast
Yeah running wires are a pain especially if you try to make it look nice and clean.
Remote wire should be wired at the back of the stereo not at the fuse box. Someone else should be able to chime in with the exact wire, but usually the remote turn on wire is blue. It sends +12V when the stereo is on if you have a voltmeter to test it with.
It might worthwhile to take the signal for the amp at the wires before the factory amp. That signal should be good and not require the PAC converter altogether.
Remote wire should be wired at the back of the stereo not at the fuse box. Someone else should be able to chime in with the exact wire, but usually the remote turn on wire is blue. It sends +12V when the stereo is on if you have a voltmeter to test it with.
It might worthwhile to take the signal for the amp at the wires before the factory amp. That signal should be good and not require the PAC converter altogether.
I don't understand why i wouldn't need the pac converter, if i don't have a pac converter then i won't have the rca outputs. Circuit city had previosly wired the remote wire to the ignition switch and not behind the stereo. I think i will make an appointment with someone that always does this crap and get a profesional install.
08-18-2005, 02:03 AM
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Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Concept_Avenue
I don't understand why i wouldn't need the pac converter, if i don't have a pac converter then i won't have the rca outputs. Circuit city had previosly wired the remote wire to the ignition switch and not behind the stereo. I think i will make an appointment with someone that always does this crap and get a profesional install.
BTW I would simply check the connections on the sub and see if they are loose at all that is the most likely cause of your crackling...
And its 3 am so if I said anything messed up I will not be held liable..
08-18-2005, 09:44 AM
#5
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For 1 if your using aftermarket subs UNHook your oem sub. You wont gain more sound from it running along with the others. There is a remote turn on behind teh rear seat for teh oem amp for teh sub. its orange (and where you should hook up your line converter). Other wise
the back side of the drivers side panel has 5 blank openings where all you need is a female spade conectorr, #3 is powered by the light swithch (when on) 2 are accessory turn on, 2 are constant. cant remember which ones are which though
the back side of the drivers side panel has 5 blank openings where all you need is a female spade conectorr, #3 is powered by the light swithch (when on) 2 are accessory turn on, 2 are constant. cant remember which ones are which though
08-18-2005, 11:49 AM
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2Poor 2Furious
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The PAC is only needed to convert high level (eg: amplified or post-amp) signal. It has circuitry to convert the high level signal to a low level (eg: unamplified or pre-amp) signal.
If you can find an unamplied pre-amp signal, then you don't need a PAC. You can take the RCA cable and cut the heads off. The inside wire is the "+" signal and the outer wire shell (eg: looks like a "sweater" around the inner wire) is the "-". Strip the outer insulation about an inch and a half to expose the outer wire. Twist those strands together, and you should see the second inner insulation around the inner wire. Strip that about an inch to expose the inner wire. Make sure you leave enough inner insulation to keep the inner and outer wires separate. Now you can solder each wire - inner wire +, outer wire -.
Usually if you don't have a RCA outputs, car stereo places will sell you the PAC. If they tap the signal to pre-amp signals, they'll just turn down all the gains so the PAC will act like bare wires with the electronics doing nothing to the signal. I've heard stories of people gettinig PACs installed onto preamp signals and then adjusting the settings, which doesn't help the signal. Oh other than them taking 20-30 bucks from you.
If you can find an unamplied pre-amp signal, then you don't need a PAC. You can take the RCA cable and cut the heads off. The inside wire is the "+" signal and the outer wire shell (eg: looks like a "sweater" around the inner wire) is the "-". Strip the outer insulation about an inch and a half to expose the outer wire. Twist those strands together, and you should see the second inner insulation around the inner wire. Strip that about an inch to expose the inner wire. Make sure you leave enough inner insulation to keep the inner and outer wires separate. Now you can solder each wire - inner wire +, outer wire -.
Usually if you don't have a RCA outputs, car stereo places will sell you the PAC. If they tap the signal to pre-amp signals, they'll just turn down all the gains so the PAC will act like bare wires with the electronics doing nothing to the signal. I've heard stories of people gettinig PACs installed onto preamp signals and then adjusting the settings, which doesn't help the signal. Oh other than them taking 20-30 bucks from you.
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