Unorthodox Racing pulleys installed...
03-31-2005, 04:44 PM
#1
Unorthodox Racing pulleys installed...
Yesterday, I finally got around to installing my UR pulley set with Gates belts.
It was pretty uneventful, except for the crank pulley bolt. It's torqued at 181 ft-lbs, and the air compressor and the gun we had couldn't do it. So we drove my car over to Tuffy's, where my buddy Chris knows the manager really well.
They loosened the nut so we could take it off at home. They didn't charge me anything, but I slipped the guy some money for the trouble.
So back to the house we went. First, we installed the power steering pulley. We cut the belt, and loosened the nut to take off the stock one and replaced with the new one. Very simple. Then for the alternator, we took out the entire unit. The alternator is held in by two bolts, 14mm on the bottom, and 12mm on top. You also need to take off the wire clip (held in by a 10mm or a 12mm nut.. can't remember), and the metal bracket connected to the alternator. Once you peel back the rubber boots, it's obvious.
So with that done, I disconnected the brake reservoir hose from the engine (you only have to do it on one side, the hose that hooks up to a nipple on the engine), and moved the reservoir out of the way. The metal bracket that the reservoir sits on was also taken out (two bolts, easy). The alternator then came out after a bit of wiggling.
Loosen the nut on the alternator, and replace the pulley with the new one. Reverse the procedures above to reinstall the alternator.
For the crank pulley, it's easy to access from the wheelwell. We replaced that with the new one (21mm), and slipped the power steering belt on first. If you install the AC/Alternator belt first, then you can't put the PS belt on, so do that one first.
For the PS belt, you have to unhook the engine mount. It's held in by two bolts. You will need a hydraulic jack to lift up the engine, so you can slip the belt through the engine mount and onto the PS pulley.
The AC/Alternator belt was tricky at first, because we thought the tensioner was fixed in one spot.
We slipped a crescent wrench over the nut on the tensioner pulley, and pulled it back. It's spring loaded, so it moves back and forth. If we had known that from the beginning, we wouldn't have wasted 15 minutes trying to put the belt on. 
So keep that in mind, as it will make the belt installation a lot easier.
FYI, the crank pulley is torqued at 181, and the alternator pulley is torqued at 82. If you have a torque wrench, make sure to use the proper torque specification. The power steering pulley isn't torqued that hard, so just make sure it's tight and it'll be fine.
Once the belts are on, remember to tighten down the engine mount, and reinstall the metal bracket, and the brake fluid reservoir. You don't have to bleed the system, so just reconnect it to the nipple and you're done.
That's it. Installation itself took me and my buddy Chris about an hour. But we wasted another hour going to the shop, getting food, and just goofing around.
Now the question is... was it worth the money and blood (I cut up my hand pretty bad on the radiator when I put the alternator back in
)??
The answer is yes. UR says that it will take 5-7 days for the computer to fully recalibrate itself, but I could feel a significant improvement throughout the day.
Also, I didn't anticipate this at all, but the engine somehow sounds really bad ass now. There's like an aggressive husky tone when I apply the gas medium to full, and it's sexy as hell.
I would definitely recommend this modification for anyone who has some bolt-on's, and looking for that next mod. Next up, Outlaw Engineering Thermoblok spacer kit -- it came in yesterday, and I'll be installing it tomorrow after my exam.
It was pretty uneventful, except for the crank pulley bolt. It's torqued at 181 ft-lbs, and the air compressor and the gun we had couldn't do it. So we drove my car over to Tuffy's, where my buddy Chris knows the manager really well.
They loosened the nut so we could take it off at home. They didn't charge me anything, but I slipped the guy some money for the trouble.
So back to the house we went. First, we installed the power steering pulley. We cut the belt, and loosened the nut to take off the stock one and replaced with the new one. Very simple. Then for the alternator, we took out the entire unit. The alternator is held in by two bolts, 14mm on the bottom, and 12mm on top. You also need to take off the wire clip (held in by a 10mm or a 12mm nut.. can't remember), and the metal bracket connected to the alternator. Once you peel back the rubber boots, it's obvious.
So with that done, I disconnected the brake reservoir hose from the engine (you only have to do it on one side, the hose that hooks up to a nipple on the engine), and moved the reservoir out of the way. The metal bracket that the reservoir sits on was also taken out (two bolts, easy). The alternator then came out after a bit of wiggling.
Loosen the nut on the alternator, and replace the pulley with the new one. Reverse the procedures above to reinstall the alternator.
For the crank pulley, it's easy to access from the wheelwell. We replaced that with the new one (21mm), and slipped the power steering belt on first. If you install the AC/Alternator belt first, then you can't put the PS belt on, so do that one first.
For the PS belt, you have to unhook the engine mount. It's held in by two bolts. You will need a hydraulic jack to lift up the engine, so you can slip the belt through the engine mount and onto the PS pulley.
The AC/Alternator belt was tricky at first, because we thought the tensioner was fixed in one spot.
We slipped a crescent wrench over the nut on the tensioner pulley, and pulled it back. It's spring loaded, so it moves back and forth. If we had known that from the beginning, we wouldn't have wasted 15 minutes trying to put the belt on. So keep that in mind, as it will make the belt installation a lot easier.FYI, the crank pulley is torqued at 181, and the alternator pulley is torqued at 82. If you have a torque wrench, make sure to use the proper torque specification. The power steering pulley isn't torqued that hard, so just make sure it's tight and it'll be fine.
Once the belts are on, remember to tighten down the engine mount, and reinstall the metal bracket, and the brake fluid reservoir. You don't have to bleed the system, so just reconnect it to the nipple and you're done.
That's it. Installation itself took me and my buddy Chris about an hour. But we wasted another hour going to the shop, getting food, and just goofing around.
Now the question is... was it worth the money and blood (I cut up my hand pretty bad on the radiator when I put the alternator back in
)??The answer is yes. UR says that it will take 5-7 days for the computer to fully recalibrate itself, but I could feel a significant improvement throughout the day.
Also, I didn't anticipate this at all, but the engine somehow sounds really bad ass now. There's like an aggressive husky tone when I apply the gas medium to full, and it's sexy as hell.
I would definitely recommend this modification for anyone who has some bolt-on's, and looking for that next mod. Next up, Outlaw Engineering Thermoblok spacer kit -- it came in yesterday, and I'll be installing it tomorrow after my exam.
03-31-2005, 04:48 PM
#3
Thanks for the info. The UR pulley is next on my list. Why'd you replace the alternator pulley? I thought you just had the crank pulley?
BTW, where'd you get a torque wrench that went up to 181 lb ft?
BTW, where'd you get a torque wrench that went up to 181 lb ft?
03-31-2005, 04:54 PM
#4
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Cool.....sounds like a fun DIY project. 
How does the pulley swap make the car sound different? That's strange. Do you "feel" a difference in power?
What ac and ps belts did you need? I'm planning on putting my crank pulley on when I do me 60k tune-up.
How does the pulley swap make the car sound different? That's strange. Do you "feel" a difference in power?What ac and ps belts did you need? I'm planning on putting my crank pulley on when I do me 60k tune-up.
03-31-2005, 05:14 PM
#6
xpothosx --
I don't know how much it would cost to get them installed. Places like California are generally much cheaper than, say, Michigan. I would call up a few shops in your area and ask around. But they shouldn't charge more than 2 hours of labor.
MikePA --
Nope, I had the whole 3-piece set. I used an impact gun. I was just providing the torque specs in case someone was planning on using a torque wrench.
fiveoh --
I have no idea how it affected the sound. But honestly, it did change the sound of the engine, and it's sick. I love it. I do feel a slight increase in power, and I'm sure it'll get better as the days go by, because UR said that it will take 5-7 days to achieve maximum gains. As for the belts, I don't have the part numbers anymore. But run a search and you should be able to find it. I got the part numbers here on the board.
I don't know how much it would cost to get them installed. Places like California are generally much cheaper than, say, Michigan. I would call up a few shops in your area and ask around. But they shouldn't charge more than 2 hours of labor.
MikePA --
Nope, I had the whole 3-piece set. I used an impact gun. I was just providing the torque specs in case someone was planning on using a torque wrench.
fiveoh --
I have no idea how it affected the sound. But honestly, it did change the sound of the engine, and it's sick. I love it.
I do feel a slight increase in power, and I'm sure it'll get better as the days go by, because UR said that it will take 5-7 days to achieve maximum gains. As for the belts, I don't have the part numbers anymore. But run a search and you should be able to find it. I got the part numbers here on the board.
03-31-2005, 05:18 PM
#7
I just spotted a small mistake.
When installing the PS belt, you can try it without jacking up the engine first. I remember jacking it up half-assed, then I had to go the bathroom (Mexican food), and when I came out, Chris had already slipped it through. So yeah, try it without jacking it up first, and if it won't go through, then try it with the engine lifted up.
Sorry about that.
When installing the PS belt, you can try it without jacking up the engine first. I remember jacking it up half-assed, then I had to go the bathroom (Mexican food
), and when I came out, Chris had already slipped it through. So yeah, try it without jacking it up first, and if it won't go through, then try it with the engine lifted up.Sorry about that.
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03-31-2005, 05:31 PM
#9
Originally Posted by patrick
Good to hear Rob! Can't wait to hear your results after the ECU adapts.
Can't wait to hear your results after the ECU adapts.
03-31-2005, 07:48 PM
#10
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When I got my crank pulley installed we went through the same steps as you but we heated up the stock pulley bolt to get it off. We used an impact gun to put the bolt back on but its pretty hard to make sure that you have it in at exactly 181 lb ft since its hard to keep the pulley still.
Its a great mod and you will really feel the difference in a few days.
Its a great mod and you will really feel the difference in a few days.
03-31-2005, 08:04 PM
#11
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I have the Unorthodox SS pulley set installed on my car too. I love them. Although, there is one flaw with installing the whole set. By moving to a smaller power steering pulley, you will notice that the steering will feel a lot looser. I kinda liked the tight feel to the steering wheel when going into the corners. Now it's a little too loose for my liking. All in all, a great mod nonetheless. Welcome to the club.
03-31-2005, 08:12 PM
#12
Originally Posted by JimmyTLS
I have the Unorthodox SS pulley set installed on my car too. I love them. Although, there is one flaw with installing the whole set. By moving to a smaller power steering pulley, you will notice that the steering will feel a lot looser. I kinda liked the tight feel to the steering wheel when going into the corners. Now it's a little too loose for my liking. All in all, a great mod nonetheless. Welcome to the club.
I also loved the tighter feel with the stock pulley, but I like this, too. Now I can really toss the car around.
03-31-2005, 11:06 PM
#13
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hey PA...you said you went to a shop and got the stock pulley bolt loose some then drove home? I guess it would be ok if you just drove a short distance...but if that was the case I could do the same thing and put it on myself also and save quite a bit of money. That will help with me deciding on my next mod - either a UR 12v crank pulley or the Thermoblock spacers. I know the spacers would be fun and easy to install... and for only $100, not too bad even for a college student!
but congrats on the mod, and I wish I could bolt on 35HP stock to start out like you!
but congrats on the mod, and I wish I could bolt on 35HP stock to start out like you!
03-31-2005, 11:14 PM
#14
Drifting
wow.. i cant wait til i get mine in.. too bad my TL is sitting at the dealers with a busted tranny. but as soon as i get it back i need to get it installed! your write-up is making me miss my TL even more. i know that the headers did make the sound different too, and the power increase was amazing. so will the pulleys let me experience that awesome feeling again???
03-31-2005, 11:19 PM
#15
Originally Posted by aaronnn
wow.. i cant wait til i get mine in.. too bad my TL is sitting at the dealers with a busted tranny. but as soon as i get it back i need to get it installed! your write-up is making me miss my TL even more. i know that the headers did make the sound different too, and the power increase was amazing. so will the pulleys let me experience that awesome feeling again???
You know how the headers helped the engine rev up faster, like you could see the tachometer rising faster? Pulleys do that, too. My revs climb quicker now, meaning faster. First to second shifts feel really firm now with a little bit of a jolt, meaning it's got that much more power now. It's great. You won't be disappointed.
03-31-2005, 11:22 PM
#16
Originally Posted by ou sig
hey PA...you said you went to a shop and got the stock pulley bolt loose some then drove home? I guess it would be ok if you just drove a short distance...but if that was the case I could do the same thing and put it on myself also and save quite a bit of money. That will help with me deciding on my next mod - either a UR 12v crank pulley or the Thermoblock spacers. I know the spacers would be fun and easy to install... and for only $100, not too bad even for a college student!
but congrats on the mod, and I wish I could bolt on 35HP stock to start out like you!
but congrats on the mod, and I wish I could bolt on 35HP stock to start out like you!
Yeah, the shop loosened it and put it on there snug so I could take it off later. If you know a shop that will do that for free (it takes like 2 minutes; turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, and you can access the pulley), you could save money. The other pulleys really aren't that hard. Maybe the alternator, but once it's out, you can take a ride to the shop again and have them take the nut off, and put it on again with the new pulley.
It was a fun project. Nothing too ridiculously hard to it.
03-31-2005, 11:30 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
Yeah, the shop loosened it and put it on there snug so I could take it off later. If you know a shop that will do that for free (it takes like 2 minutes; turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, and you can access the pulley), you could save money. The other pulleys really aren't that hard. Maybe the alternator, but once it's out, you can take a ride to the shop again and have them take the nut off, and put it on again with the new pulley.
It was a fun project. Nothing too ridiculously hard to it.
It was a fun project. Nothing too ridiculously hard to it.
03-31-2005, 11:53 PM
#19
O.G.
Maybe you can clear this up for me...how many belts are needed for the ur crank pulley? I already have the Gates belt # K060441. Now do I need the Gates belt # K040425?
04-01-2005, 12:18 AM
#21
Originally Posted by samkws
man i can't let you load up ur car better than me!!!!
you will bow me when i get the BBK!!!
you will bow me when i get the BBK!!!
Well, I got news for ya. I'm also getting a BBK -- Rotora. It's coming in next week. I might even be able to put it on before the meet.
04-01-2005, 12:21 AM
#22
Originally Posted by BlackShadow
Maybe you can clear this up for me...how many belts are needed for the ur crank pulley? I already have the Gates belt # K060441. Now do I need the Gates belt # K040425?
One from the crank pulley to the power steering pulley. Then another one from the crank pulley, to the air conditiong and alternator.
It's gonna be a tight fit at first, but they will be broken in after a while.
04-01-2005, 02:10 AM
#24
Originally Posted by darkfox12
Wait so which gator belts do we need and where can i buy them? Im getting my UR crank pulley installed soon so i need to get those belts.
Where I live, Gates belts are sold under the NAPA brand and I can buy them at NAPA stores.
The part numbers are listed above in one of the posts. That's what you need.
04-01-2005, 08:11 AM
#26
Drifting
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
You won't be able to "feel" it as much as the headers. Then again, mine isn't fully adjusted yet, so I'm gonna watch it for the next several days.
You know how the headers helped the engine rev up faster, like you could see the tachometer rising faster? Pulleys do that, too. My revs climb quicker now, meaning faster. First to second shifts feel really firm now with a little bit of a jolt, meaning it's got that much more power now. It's great. You won't be disappointed.
You know how the headers helped the engine rev up faster, like you could see the tachometer rising faster? Pulleys do that, too. My revs climb quicker now, meaning faster. First to second shifts feel really firm now with a little bit of a jolt, meaning it's got that much more power now. It's great. You won't be disappointed.
04-01-2005, 10:28 AM
#27
OK, enough happy news. Here's a bad one -- my gas mileage is SHOT TO HELL. I've gone through 1/3 of a tank since the pulleys, and I've only logged 60 miles. Usually at this point, I would've logged about 100-120 miles.
I wonder if it's just the process of the engine getting adjusted to it. I'll keep you guys updated for the next several days.
I wonder if it's just the process of the engine getting adjusted to it. I'll keep you guys updated for the next several days.
04-01-2005, 12:26 PM
#28
Not Asian
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
OK, enough happy news. Here's a bad one -- my gas mileage is SHOT TO HELL. I've gone through 1/3 of a tank since the pulleys, and I've only logged 60 miles. Usually at this point, I would've logged about 100-120 miles.
I wonder if it's just the process of the engine getting adjusted to it. I'll keep you guys updated for the next several days.
I wonder if it's just the process of the engine getting adjusted to it. I'll keep you guys updated for the next several days.
04-01-2005, 02:09 PM
#29
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
So with that done, I disconnected the brake reservoir hose from the engine (you only have to do it on one side, the hose that hooks up to a nipple on the engine), and moved the reservoir out of the way.
Once the belts are on, remember to tighten down the engine mount, and reinstall the metal bracket, and the brake fluid reservoir. You don't have to bleed the system, so just reconnect it to the nipple and you're done.
the only question i have is why remove teh brake res? thats on the master cylider. are you talking about the power steering res front passenger side behing the headlight????
also to your mileage, its probably due to the comp being reset and you driving like a mad amn to feel the differences of the UR pullies!
04-01-2005, 02:26 PM
#30
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
the only question i have is why remove teh brake res? thats on the master cylider. are you talking about the power steering res front passenger side behing the headlight????
also to your mileage, its probably due to the comp being reset and you driving like a mad amn to feel the differences of the UR pullies!
also to your mileage, its probably due to the comp being reset and you driving like a mad amn to feel the differences of the UR pullies!
04-05-2005, 12:19 AM
#32
Installed the Thermoblok spacer kit today -- disconnected the battery for about an hour, and reset the PCM. Fuel economy seems to be back to average, but I'll have to wait 'til the next tank to get a solid figure.
For now, everything looks fine now.
For now, everything looks fine now.
04-05-2005, 02:33 PM
#35
Not Asian
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
Well, shit, is it power steering fluid reservoir or brake fluid reservoir? I'm losing my mind here.
04-05-2005, 08:56 PM
#36
Smitty's Moral Police
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
Oh, God. I'm trying to come up with every excuse possible to keep myself from doing it... must... resist.... 
04-05-2005, 09:12 PM
#37
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by unlemming
One word: Tranny.
OH and PA its the powersteering
04-05-2005, 09:34 PM
#38
Yeah, I realized it's power steering. Haha.
Tranny + Supercharger... yeah... That's why I'm so hesitant about doing the supercharger/hbp/intercooler, because at the same time, I'll get the tranny done, too, and that'll cost like 7 grand overall. :insertcrazinesscommentshere:
Tranny + Supercharger... yeah... That's why I'm so hesitant about doing the supercharger/hbp/intercooler, because at the same time, I'll get the tranny done, too, and that'll cost like 7 grand overall. :insertcrazinesscommentshere:
04-05-2005, 09:36 PM
#39
Senior Moderator
yea id get the tranny upgrade at the same time
04-07-2005, 02:00 PM
#40
Lead Footed
Originally Posted by phipark
When the ECU is reset or adjusting, it usually comsumes more gas.
Nope, he's just having a hard time keeping his foot out of it.
Ruf