Timing Belt Melted - Time for a new engine!
#41
I was gonna say it- but soda beat me,,, once again~
stp are not highly rated in test, and physical internal inspection of materials
see www.bobtheoilguy.com for info on filters, or search oil filter test
stp are not highly rated in test, and physical internal inspection of materials
see www.bobtheoilguy.com for info on filters, or search oil filter test
#42
So I borrowed a friend's Ford Ranger (my only option) and drove to LKQ down in Portland today. I bought an engine and had the forklift load it way in the front. Then I went and bought an engine hoist from some guy off craigslist for $75 and he helped me load the beast in the back. I drove home and unloaded the hoist myself using a little leverage and excellent lifting technique. Then I unloaded the engine with the hoist I had just recently almost dropped. So here she is...this will (hopefully) soon be the pulse of our 2000 TL!
I will be uploading pics as I go to: http://photobucket.com/JRAcura
I will be uploading pics as I go to: http://photobucket.com/JRAcura
#43
yes Kris - and fram used to be better than now--what hasnt gone down in quality..
Cant deny they have seen use on some of my cars over the years- now I have a reason to use an expensive filter--its the same one for my bike! and the bike oil gets changed (ugh) every 2-3000miles...
OP plans to reuse the brand new belt- pump and tensioners off the busted TL motor
for the replacement motor (engine)
any contra-indications there kris?
Cant deny they have seen use on some of my cars over the years- now I have a reason to use an expensive filter--its the same one for my bike! and the bike oil gets changed (ugh) every 2-3000miles...
OP plans to reuse the brand new belt- pump and tensioners off the busted TL motor
for the replacement motor (engine)
any contra-indications there kris?
#45
Soooo...the engine comes out from underneath? That's what the Helm's manual says, but CAN it come out above? I don't really have the equipment to take it out underneath and most everything is already apart. I should have read the manual BEFORE taking it all apart...
Let the laughter commence, I'm having another beer.
Let the laughter commence, I'm having another beer.
#48
Soooo...the engine comes out from underneath? That's what the Helm's manual says, but CAN it come out above? I don't really have the equipment to take it out underneath and most everything is already apart. I should have read the manual BEFORE taking it all apart...
Let the laughter commence, I'm having another beer.
Let the laughter commence, I'm having another beer.
Pull the trans out with the motor all one unit, it will be easier to mate the 2 together outside the car (but not necessary)
#49
Pull it out the top. Its much much easier and less involved. Just undo the hood struts take the left hood strut mounting ball and thread it down just above the hood hinge (there is a threaded hole for it) and hook the left(drivers side) strut to it to hold the hood vertical.
Pull the trans out with the motor all one unit, it will be easier to mate the 2 together outside the car (but not necessary)
Pull the trans out with the motor all one unit, it will be easier to mate the 2 together outside the car (but not necessary)
#50
Whew! I was worried about getting it out of the bottom. I thought it looked like there was enough room, but when I read the manual (after) I started second guessing myself.
So let's say that for some reason a person pulls of an a/c hose and refrigerant spews all over your garage...can you recharge yourself or do you have to pay someone way too much to do it? Anybody got any instructions. I guess I COULD read the dang manual.
So let's say that for some reason a person pulls of an a/c hose and refrigerant spews all over your garage...can you recharge yourself or do you have to pay someone way too much to do it? Anybody got any instructions. I guess I COULD read the dang manual.
#51
regardless of ones choice of filter branding,
the fact that this one is relativly clean on its case shows it was changed within recent memory = thats better than finding an old filter,,
the car did get the oil changed,,and thats the big part of keeping a TL running
the fact that this one is relativly clean on its case shows it was changed within recent memory = thats better than finding an old filter,,
the car did get the oil changed,,and thats the big part of keeping a TL running
#52
PM me when you can for AC instructions
Yes it happens when you remove a hose- BUT it was an accidental discharge so we wont fine you any carbon credits for the atmospheric damage
Shops have to recycle the freon- and charge 60 bucks a lb for it to install!!!- we use 2. some lbs- it says on the compressor
at parts stores- 1 lb can $10
Yes it happens when you remove a hose- BUT it was an accidental discharge so we wont fine you any carbon credits for the atmospheric damage
Shops have to recycle the freon- and charge 60 bucks a lb for it to install!!!- we use 2. some lbs- it says on the compressor
at parts stores- 1 lb can $10
#53
PM me when you can for AC instructions
Yes it happens when you remove a hose- BUT it was an accidental discharge so we wont fine you any carbon credits for the atmospheric damage
Shops have to recycle the freon- and charge 60 bucks a lb for it to install!!!- we use 2. some lbs- it says on the compressor
at parts stores- 1 lb can $10
Yes it happens when you remove a hose- BUT it was an accidental discharge so we wont fine you any carbon credits for the atmospheric damage
Shops have to recycle the freon- and charge 60 bucks a lb for it to install!!!- we use 2. some lbs- it says on the compressor
at parts stores- 1 lb can $10
#54
You should have left them attached to the AC compressor and just unbolted the compressor from the motor.
Yes it can be done by yourself BUT you really should go to a AC service shop, let them Vac the system and reoil and recharge it.
Yes it can be done by yourself BUT you really should go to a AC service shop, let them Vac the system and reoil and recharge it.
#55
Engine out...what a mess. That was a little harder than anticipated. So is there a trick to getting the crank pulley off? We put a 300 ft/lb impact on there and nothing budged. We're trying to put a new timing belt, tensioner, and water pump on.
#56
you'll need the pulley tool to bust the bolt or you can jam a screw driver in the teeth for leverage. a breaker bar, couple of heavy friends, and an extension pipe may be necessary.
when i had my lightweight pulley installed, the shop had to rent a bigger impact wrench to bust it loose.
when i had my lightweight pulley installed, the shop had to rent a bigger impact wrench to bust it loose.
#58
please dont use IMPACT guns on the crank bolt!!!
not good for the crankshaft in general
The bolt is on with 181 foot pounds torque plus age/corrosion bond
Try tightening first- then loosen- that often breaks the bond
that trick works on the brake rotor screws too
get a big breaker bar and 2 buddies for this job
not good for the crankshaft in general
The bolt is on with 181 foot pounds torque plus age/corrosion bond
Try tightening first- then loosen- that often breaks the bond
that trick works on the brake rotor screws too
get a big breaker bar and 2 buddies for this job
#59
Just an update: we're almost done! My uncle is coming over today to help with the finishing touches.
1. Go to NAPA and get new radiator and heater hoses
2. Crack a beer
3. Install radiator and heater hoses
4. Install radiator fans
5. Hook up alternator
6. Install air intake
7. Guess where a few misc wires should go
8. Install battery
9. Cross our fingers and hope for the best
10. Have a beer to celebrate, or have a beer to drown my sorrows.
1. Go to NAPA and get new radiator and heater hoses
2. Crack a beer
3. Install radiator and heater hoses
4. Install radiator fans
5. Hook up alternator
6. Install air intake
7. Guess where a few misc wires should go
8. Install battery
9. Cross our fingers and hope for the best
10. Have a beer to celebrate, or have a beer to drown my sorrows.
#62
So we got everything back together and the very last thing we did before we fired her up was to fill the radiator. Guess what....coolant everywhere running out from behind the lower timing belt cover. That's what we get for being in a hurry. We couldn't get the crank pulley off with the engine sitting on the floor of the garage so we figured that we would just leave all the old stuff (tb, tensioner, idler, h2o pump) until we got it installed and then use the starter method to get that pulley off and change everything out.
The good news is that the engine runs. Just to see if it ran we fired her up with a dry radiator. We only let it run for 3 seconds at the most, but it sounded great! No smoke, no fires, no knocking.
So tomorrow my uncle will be taking the tensioner to his shop and compressing it with a vise so that we can put it in the car tomorrow evening. While he's at work I will be cracking that pulley off to get at the lower tb cover and pouring distilled water in the radiator to determine where the leak is coming from. Hopefully it will be coming from behind the water pump pulley and not from the head gasket area.
Anyone out there have any suggestions about where the leak could be coming from? I know that sounds like a bit of a silly question since you can't see the car or where it is leaking from, but hell I can't even see where it is leaking from. I can only see that it is dripping from the lower tb cover. I just didn't know if there is a common failure point that I don't know about.
Thanks for all of your input thus far. It has been very helpful and greatly appreciated!
The good news is that the engine runs. Just to see if it ran we fired her up with a dry radiator. We only let it run for 3 seconds at the most, but it sounded great! No smoke, no fires, no knocking.
So tomorrow my uncle will be taking the tensioner to his shop and compressing it with a vise so that we can put it in the car tomorrow evening. While he's at work I will be cracking that pulley off to get at the lower tb cover and pouring distilled water in the radiator to determine where the leak is coming from. Hopefully it will be coming from behind the water pump pulley and not from the head gasket area.
Anyone out there have any suggestions about where the leak could be coming from? I know that sounds like a bit of a silly question since you can't see the car or where it is leaking from, but hell I can't even see where it is leaking from. I can only see that it is dripping from the lower tb cover. I just didn't know if there is a common failure point that I don't know about.
Thanks for all of your input thus far. It has been very helpful and greatly appreciated!
#63
should be a port on the bottem of water pump - lets fluid out if WP shaft seal goes bad
Use mechanics mirror to check-
If it sat for a while the seals dry up and would leak on startup
But it would be easier to tell more if you could move the modem closer to the car please~
Use mechanics mirror to check-
If it sat for a while the seals dry up and would leak on startup
But it would be easier to tell more if you could move the modem closer to the car please~
#64
should be a port on the bottem of water pump - lets fluid out if WP shaft seal goes bad
Use mechanics mirror to check-
If it sat for a while the seals dry up and would leak on startup
But it would be easier to tell more if you could move the modem closer to the car please~
Use mechanics mirror to check-
If it sat for a while the seals dry up and would leak on startup
But it would be easier to tell more if you could move the modem closer to the car please~
#65
#66
The jury is still out on whether the water pump caused the tensioner and idler pulleys to go out or if the pulleys caused the water pump to go out. Either way, it cost me a pretty penny and I'm not taking any chances this time.
JR
#68
most likely a tensioner bearing failed- causing the belt to slip and burn, HEAT is generated in the engien from water pump not turnign normal speed
putting excess force on the wp seal,,,
I cant belive shops and Acura dont make those mandatory replacement--they know its not going to last another 100k on those bearings
Everyone is now warned of the results--replace everything on the 105, do it early if you are in severe service realm,,yes there is margin built in
Based on reports- those bearings last 20K~ past whenever you do the timing belt
removing belt tension then applying new belt may have some effect on the unit (guess)
Not replacing them is like replacing the timing belt and not the water pump while you are right there!
putting excess force on the wp seal,,,
I cant belive shops and Acura dont make those mandatory replacement--they know its not going to last another 100k on those bearings
Everyone is now warned of the results--replace everything on the 105, do it early if you are in severe service realm,,yes there is margin built in
Based on reports- those bearings last 20K~ past whenever you do the timing belt
removing belt tension then applying new belt may have some effect on the unit (guess)
Not replacing them is like replacing the timing belt and not the water pump while you are right there!
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 08-04-2009 at 12:53 PM.
#69
jrd- based on the new information from your laptop sitting on the motor:
I suggest you check the camfibrillator and carbshaft bushings carefully
This requires 2 beers
It may also need the center muffler bearing, which was easier to replace with the engine out- sorry I didnt mention it before
I suggest you check the camfibrillator and carbshaft bushings carefully
This requires 2 beers
It may also need the center muffler bearing, which was easier to replace with the engine out- sorry I didnt mention it before
#70
jrd- based on the new information from your laptop sitting on the motor:
I suggest you check the camfibrillator and carbshaft bushings carefully
This requires 2 beers
It may also need the center muffler bearing, which was easier to replace with the engine out- sorry I didnt mention it before
I suggest you check the camfibrillator and carbshaft bushings carefully
This requires 2 beers
It may also need the center muffler bearing, which was easier to replace with the engine out- sorry I didnt mention it before
In all seriousness now I've run in to a problem...when trying to line up the tdc marks on the cams and crank, i can't get them to align by turning crank (this is on the installed new engine). How bad is this? Does this indicate that the engine had been running out of time? If so, that would make me think that this on would have damaged valves. Should I mark and xfer to new belt, or should I just go through the steps in the Acura manual for installing a new one with all TDC marks aligned?
#72
they dont run long if the belt has skipped a tooth during failure
Noisy and runs like crud,,,would bend valves on first rotation of the crankshaft after belt or pulley failure--if an intake is open - an one is for sure at all times,,,bang smash bend destroy
Noisy and runs like crud,,,would bend valves on first rotation of the crankshaft after belt or pulley failure--if an intake is open - an one is for sure at all times,,,bang smash bend destroy
#73
Got er all lined up. Much easier with that stupid accessory pulley and lower timing cover off. Old water pump was cracked...new one installed. All is well. Just slap a few things back on tomorrow morning, fill er up with coolant, and drive away!
JR
JR
#74
So it's official. I'm screwed. Everything back together, runs great except for that coolant leak. I was really hoping that it was just overflow coming out one of those little vents on the water pump, but obviously not. There's coolant leaking from around the water pump area and also dripping from around the little access panel to the transmission / drive wheel. I can't see where exactly the coolant is coming from, but from where it is ending up makes me think that i either need to look for a cracked block somewhere or hope that it's a head gasket....this really sucks!!!
#75
Keep the covers off and look with it running. Did you get a new water pump or reuse the one off the other engine? Did you make sure you had all the seals in place (like where it connects to the cross over tube?)
#77
I had concerns about overheating when you said coolant was running out~
The weep hole on the water pump is not an overflow- its only to let fluid out and cause a warning to you of its rubber internal seal failure
The weep hole on the water pump is not an overflow- its only to let fluid out and cause a warning to you of its rubber internal seal failure
#78
Well I got word from the shop today that my problem is a rear head gasket. I guess that's good because I don't have to remove my entire engine to fix that, right? Has anyone done this replacement before? Any words of advice or tips and tricks?
The service manual says not to reuse the little metal gaskets underneath the intake manifold. I had taken the manifold apart and cleaned it up pretty good before we installed the engine and i just reused the old ones. Is that against the rules? I figure that since I'm going to be tearing the top out and replacing gaskets I might as well do it right and keep this thing running another 20k miles like after my last service.
Oh yah, a "while you're at it" list would be helpful. You know, "while you're at it" why don't you change the DFO chip...
The service manual says not to reuse the little metal gaskets underneath the intake manifold. I had taken the manifold apart and cleaned it up pretty good before we installed the engine and i just reused the old ones. Is that against the rules? I figure that since I'm going to be tearing the top out and replacing gaskets I might as well do it right and keep this thing running another 20k miles like after my last service.
Oh yah, a "while you're at it" list would be helpful. You know, "while you're at it" why don't you change the DFO chip...
#79
Yes, but it's not...I don't think...I hope...
Used the new one that was installed in the old engine that was only started once to determine that the valves were bad.
Used the new one that was installed in the old engine that was only started once to determine that the valves were bad.