sbuswell

Tonight I installed a spark plug non-fouler on my cat and while I was under there I check out the suspension components to make sure everything was tight. My car has been a little floaty again, well it has been for a while now. It got better when I chnaged the front shocks and lower ball joints, but it's still out of alignment and steering isn't right. I checked the tie rod ends and the driver side one is fine. The passenger side one though had more than play in it. I was able to easily rotate it side to side. I'm pretty damn sure it's completely broken. It wiggled a little bit up and down, but side to side twisting was turning about an inch each way. My question is this: Is it dangerous to drive the car right now and does someone have a DIY on changing the tie rod end. I've never done one before, but it looks easy. Do I have to take off the entire brake assembly and/or more to get to it and do I need to support anything while I remove it?

sbuswell

well I found a DIY on line and it looks very easy. What's the easiest way to grease the boots and what kind of grease would you guys recommend?

01tl4tl

why would you grease the boots? If there is play-- you need to replace the unit with its new grease and boot all ready to go.
Expect the other side of the car to be worn as well.
Measure the distance from bolt center to the adjuster lock nut, set the new one close- so you can drive to get alignment

A jackstand under the frame is a good idea when working with your head or body in the fender or under the car
A Big hammer and a tie rod tool- pickle fork- or press type removal tool- not sure what 99 has
there must be a ziner made diy if you check

sbuswell

yeah. I'll replace both sides anyway, why not. is there is a lot of play do you feel it's unsafe to drive?

FirePR2002

fixed.

serious?

fsttyms1

Im sure it is but i wouldnt do it long

sbuswell

I'm sure the 99's have the same tie rod layout and design as 00-03's. I have a few questions for the ziners that have changed their own ends.

1. What direction does the drivers side end turn and what direction does the passenger side turn?
2. Do you have to support the knuckle while removing the end?
3. How long should i take to do one side of the car?

01tl4tl

1- look at the threads on the existing shaft
2-support the main suspension so it doesnt drop on your hand while beating the joint loose with a hammer!
3-Less than 1 hour

4- measure the distance from the connector pin to a fixed point on the main arm-- a referance to be able to set the new one too-

sbuswell

connecting pin? is that the same as a the cotter pin? Is this harder to do than a full brake job(pads + rotors) or easier?

sbuswell

I replaced the passengers side tie rod just an hour ago. The removal process was very easy amnd only took about 10mins from jacking up the car to getting the old end off. I wasn't 100% on how to correctly put the new end on so I took my sweet ass time and I had the grease the end as the boot was in a bag inside the tie rod end box and not connected to the end. The drivers side end I bought had the boot already connected and greased. There was also a little plug that came with the ends but I couldn't get it to screw into the bottom side of the end where you can squirt in the grease. Not sure what to plug it with. The old tie rod had a lot of play in it for sure. A few things I noticed while changing this were the old tie rod didn't have a castle nut on it and neither does the drivers side. They both just have regular nuts on them and the nuts look pretty old so I'd bet they are the originals. I've never changhed the ends before so I have no reason to believe they aren't original. I reused the nut on old tie rod as it was still in pretty good shape just a little surface rust. After I was done I took the car for a test drive and the steering felt more responsive. It was in the same alignment as before or maybe a little better(it was way out of alignment beforehand). My car still steers into irregularities in the road like dips and bumps though.

I marked the threads and turned the new end on and then tightened the back nut(whatever that nut is called, can't remember). I didn't know how hard to tightened it though so that's question number one.

How tight do you tighten that bolt?
How much do I tightened down the nut on top of the tie rod end itself?
How does an alignment shop align your car based on your tie rods? I assume they don't remove them and turn them in more or less, right?
Do you need to press the new tie rod in somehow?

fsttyms1

Get that fitting screwed in or bring it back. Grease will come out if you dont and it will ruing it. I dnot have the manual here but if its like some of the other ones its like 30-40 ftlbs.
as for the adjusting bolts just get them tight. You WILL have to bring it to an alignment shop to have it done. They will get them where they need to be. The alignment shop turns the shaft in or out which adjusts the length which fixes your toe in/out. Press them into what? they are tapered and the nut pulls them into place.

sbuswell

the fitting screw goes into the bottom of the tie rod right? thanks for the help.

sbuswell

yesterday mornign I replaced the driver side tie rod end and put the grease retaining screw in the bottom of the passenger side end. Overall very easy to do this yourself. It takes longer to change brake pads than to do this. the driver side end was pre greased and had the boot on it so that one took me all of ten minutes to do.

The thing that baffles me is my alignment is perfect now. My car was tracking left badly before and now it tracks perfectly straight. I took it on the highway and was going 80 on a nice straight stretch of road that I drive all the time. My car was tracking left badly before now I can let go of the steering wheel and it tracks straight. I find myself very lucky this happened.

Do you guys think I should still get an alignment even though my cars tracking straight? steering response is also greatly improved by the way.

03aspec

get the alignment done...

Gfaze

You're probably due for one anyways. Besides, an alignment is cheaper than buying new tires prematurely because you didn't want to get the alignment done.

sbuswell

Yeah, you're probably right, but my tires are near their end anyways.

01tl4tl

replace the tires- then get an alignment- do both right away- your tires are wasted

Of course the steering is crisp and doesnt wander or pull~- didnt you notice the parts attached to the ball joints! not to mention they are the adjustment link for toe- as kris said.
If thats a wobllin- how can the tires point in one solid forward direction?
Bet your gas mileage goes up too

sbuswell

nothing is loose now. everything is tight, adjustment bolt's and all. I agree I need an alignment. I was stating that I'm not too concerned about the tires as I need new ones soon anyways. Let me say this nothing could be worse then how off my alignment was before. It is much much better now at least safety wise. I understand the importance of a properly aligned car. Friday I'll get an alignment and in a few months new tires and another alignment. It's all good. I shouldn't have said my alignment ewas perfect because I don't know if it's perfect or not. I was excited because my car is tracking straight apposed to jutting off to the left everytime I took my hand off the wheel.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

I really need to look into this part. The creaking is driving me nuts! and my car creeps to the right. An alignment help but it still creeps.