Spark plug change
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Spark plug change
Im comming up on the 105K mark and its time to change my spark plugs among other things. Im pretty sure my car has stock plugs in it. Has anyone had problems with the plugs being seized up since theyve been there so long? I wouldnt want to break one off in there.
#2
Its not an issue I've ever heard of. Be gentle as you break them loose- but at 13lbs torque its easy, the rear plugs are easier with a 9 inch extension for your socket and use a socket that will grab the plug and pull it out of the deep hole for you
I use piece of vac line on the new plug to lower into place and start the threads
Use small bit of anti sieze for ease of install
NGK Iridiums rule!
I use piece of vac line on the new plug to lower into place and start the threads
Use small bit of anti sieze for ease of install
NGK Iridiums rule!
#4
I changed mine at 70 because I am into max performance from each component
42 bucks for 6 plugs is cheap for the results
Seafoam treatment and burn-off run first
Start with everything fresh
42 bucks for 6 plugs is cheap for the results
Seafoam treatment and burn-off run first
Start with everything fresh
#5
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
use a socket that will grab the plug and pull it out of the deep hole for you
I use piece of vac line on the new plug to lower into place and start the threads
!
I use piece of vac line on the new plug to lower into place and start the threads
!
#6
I know I know- I SHOULD just buy a new socket, and I like to offer alternatives to those with budget tool sets.
What I meant by the type that will pull the plug out- is the rubber insert model.
The newest ones have some sort of magnet to hold the plug instead of rubber.
I used to lose the rubber insert out of mine all the time -deep inside a bmws plug hole
thats really why I went to vac line which I have spares of from other jobs
What I meant by the type that will pull the plug out- is the rubber insert model.
The newest ones have some sort of magnet to hold the plug instead of rubber.
I used to lose the rubber insert out of mine all the time -deep inside a bmws plug hole
thats really why I went to vac line which I have spares of from other jobs
#7
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
I know I know- I SHOULD just buy a new socket, and I like to offer alternatives to those with budget tool sets.
What I meant by the type that will pull the plug out- is the rubber insert model.
The newest ones have some sort of magnet to hold the plug instead of rubber.
I used to lose the rubber insert out of mine all the time -deep inside a bmws plug hole
thats really why I went to vac line which I have spares of from other jobs
What I meant by the type that will pull the plug out- is the rubber insert model.
The newest ones have some sort of magnet to hold the plug instead of rubber.
I used to lose the rubber insert out of mine all the time -deep inside a bmws plug hole
thats really why I went to vac line which I have spares of from other jobs
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#9
any parts store like kragen stocks them, just call around
A store either stocks NGK or they dont- autozone doesnt
If you live in the boonies call Excellerate and he will ship you a set
A store either stocks NGK or they dont- autozone doesnt
If you live in the boonies call Excellerate and he will ship you a set
#12
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by kman03tl
i was wondering if i could do this with a 3 inch spark plug socket rather than 6 inch extension? will i able to get to the back ones? thanks
#16
Thanks to everyone here. I finally got up enough guts to replace my sparkplugs myself. I took a little longer than 30 minutes, but with the lack my mechanical knowledge I was able to complete the task. I changed them at 109 k. I used NGK IX plugs this time. I don't think the plugs have ever been changed. They looked to be the original equipment. I am very happy with the new plugs. Thanks again to the threads. It is a big help. With this website, I may attempt bigger jobs.....
#18
its the same
practice on 1 front plug so you see how everything connects
Then for the rears use a 9 inch or a combined 3 and 6 inch extensions
You will need it to get the rear plugs.
Its straightforward, do the rears first so you save the easy ones for last
use search for details if you need every tool listed for you, otherwise pull the 4 bolts of the engine cover and its side piece
now remove allen head bolts- that is the coil for the plug, now you can use regular plug wrench and remove plug
NGK Iridium IX rock!
Use a little plug anti seize on the threads- easier to install
practice on 1 front plug so you see how everything connects
Then for the rears use a 9 inch or a combined 3 and 6 inch extensions
You will need it to get the rear plugs.
Its straightforward, do the rears first so you save the easy ones for last
use search for details if you need every tool listed for you, otherwise pull the 4 bolts of the engine cover and its side piece
now remove allen head bolts- that is the coil for the plug, now you can use regular plug wrench and remove plug
NGK Iridium IX rock!
Use a little plug anti seize on the threads- easier to install
#21
Be glad you put in the good plugs that will last 100k
the denso needs replacement every 30k
and once on the TL was enough for me!
the denso needs replacement every 30k
and once on the TL was enough for me!
#23
The metal is about the electrode tip- and its a very fine wire
The Iridium is the lastest in trick metals
the Platinums work fine too- per fsttyms1
Both are better than the old stock ones
Just stick with NGK for longer life of plugs
The Iridium is the lastest in trick metals
the Platinums work fine too- per fsttyms1
Both are better than the old stock ones
Just stick with NGK for longer life of plugs
#24
Honda+Blue=My garage
Originally Posted by FamusFace
Does anyone know the main difference(s) between the NGK 1x and the NGK platium and how do the double platium OEMs compare to NGK????
THANKS
THANKS
#26
It says on the box, I thinks its 1/3 to 1/4 after base seats finger tight
Get a feel for it before removing- just a little pull to see how tight the plug is
Remember -- anti sieze applied sparingly to the threads
Get a feel for it before removing- just a little pull to see how tight the plug is
Remember -- anti sieze applied sparingly to the threads
#29
You NGK plugs come pre gapped- there is no way for you to do it correctly- they are not old school plugs
Buy the right stuff Iriduim NGK and enjoy
Buy the right stuff Iriduim NGK and enjoy
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