San diego area, looking for brake pads
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Escondido, CA
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San diego area, looking for brake pads
Hi there im looking for brake pads for my 3.2 2000 tl-p. I would order but I need them right now, do you guys know any shops around the san diego/escondido area that carry performance street pads? I called up autozone, evans tire, and napa but they only carried oem type of stuff. Also, have you guys heard of akebono brake pads?
#2
Call PepBoys for HAWK HPS pads- they usually stock them and should be a store near you.
Also call acurazine vendor Mr Heel Toe in Mission Viejo 92692
phone 1-949-295-1668 if local parts store does not have.
Love my hawks- work in all conditions- you will be happy with the upgrade over stock
Also call acurazine vendor Mr Heel Toe in Mission Viejo 92692
phone 1-949-295-1668 if local parts store does not have.
Love my hawks- work in all conditions- you will be happy with the upgrade over stock
#3
If you need rotors- thinking you have 100k on them?- mrheeltoe has RacingBrake brand
see www.racingbrake.com
look at the one piece rotor for tech details on why these are the thing!
see www.racingbrake.com
look at the one piece rotor for tech details on why these are the thing!
#5
Glad to be of assistance.
Make sure to drive gently with no panic stops for 200 miles, several normal heat and cool cycle on the rotors.
Then do the pad bedding in procedure printed on the HAWK box.
Its a series of repeated slow downs with increasing pedal pressure.
Burns off stuff that has to go and mates the parts
Marcus will give you more complete details
See thread on replacing brakes if doing it yourself.
The rears have the park brake assembly inside the hub- sometimes they get hung up and you have to release the tension lever first.
Good luck
Please do some pics and post so others see the differance in parts
PS If you are at 100k- time for Seafoam treatment and some NGK Iridium plugs
01tl4tl
Make sure to drive gently with no panic stops for 200 miles, several normal heat and cool cycle on the rotors.
Then do the pad bedding in procedure printed on the HAWK box.
Its a series of repeated slow downs with increasing pedal pressure.
Burns off stuff that has to go and mates the parts
Marcus will give you more complete details
See thread on replacing brakes if doing it yourself.
The rears have the park brake assembly inside the hub- sometimes they get hung up and you have to release the tension lever first.
Good luck
Please do some pics and post so others see the differance in parts
PS If you are at 100k- time for Seafoam treatment and some NGK Iridium plugs
01tl4tl
#6
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Thanks for the tips! I'll definetly put some comparison pictures up. Im only doing the front grakes rotors and pads though so hopefully I won't run into too many problems.
#7
Its really easy to do. Look at the threads on changing those parts and make sure to have an "impact screwdriver" to remove those 2 pesky retaining screws- they can be drilled out- not required for reuse- if they are a pain
Make sure you use spray brake cleaner on every surface and hang the caliper from a wire coat hanger or similar idea- to keep it from falling and breaking other things while you remove and install the new rotor
Check the master fluid level before pushing piston back in to caliper- you push- fluid rises
A great tool to buy or get loaner from parts store, is the special tool -like a reverse c clamp -made to push pistons safely
An air compressor is best to remove the bolts for the caliper and bracket- they are approx- dont quote me- 80 -90 foot lbs- check specs
Some use a 3 foot long bar over a 1/2 drive breaker bar to remove them
Take your time, put the wheels back on snugging the lugs up gently 20 foot lbs at a time so as not to cause uneven stress on the new rotors- bring the whole torque up slow and even and you will prevent problems.
Wheel torque 80 ft lbs stock rims
Enjoy!
Make sure you use spray brake cleaner on every surface and hang the caliper from a wire coat hanger or similar idea- to keep it from falling and breaking other things while you remove and install the new rotor
Check the master fluid level before pushing piston back in to caliper- you push- fluid rises
A great tool to buy or get loaner from parts store, is the special tool -like a reverse c clamp -made to push pistons safely
An air compressor is best to remove the bolts for the caliper and bracket- they are approx- dont quote me- 80 -90 foot lbs- check specs
Some use a 3 foot long bar over a 1/2 drive breaker bar to remove them
Take your time, put the wheels back on snugging the lugs up gently 20 foot lbs at a time so as not to cause uneven stress on the new rotors- bring the whole torque up slow and even and you will prevent problems.
Wheel torque 80 ft lbs stock rims
Enjoy!
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#9
Take the time to read the threads on replacing front pads and rotors, there are several more tips and pics- wrench sizes etc
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