Sup people? I have a 2003 TL-S. I've changed my brakes a few times already, and it's always been warped.... major vibrating when stepping on the breaks. I heard this was a problem with our rotors. The last time I changed out the pads, the mechanic said that it's going to be the last time he can resurface the rotors since it'll be too thin..

Since I have to replace my rotors, my question is, are there any rotors out there i can get to avoid warping? thanks!

 

did you do a search? this topic has been covered at least 99,472 times since January 2008......there are tons of options. Check our vendors excelerate or mrheeltoe.

or look in my signature for the parts you should buy.

 

once again..

RacingBrake ftw..

 

If you wanna go the cheaper route...

r1concepts.com

if you got money to spend...go with Racing Brake

 

I am surprised they were able to resurface them more than once-
but not surprised at how easily they re-warp once you start removing metal from the surface
Its fairly well known on here that 2nd set of pads and its time for rotors

 

Since I've had the car, I've actually changed it out the pads twice..So they resurfaced it twice to the best of my knowledge.

Hey 01tl4tl, I know you did the legend brake upgrade. It's a very big difference right?

 

not a VERY BIG difference but it is a difference.

 

thanks jjashaa. is there a reason why people would get different sets of rotors for the front and back?

 

match the looks..

lol

i love the racingbrake slotted rotors in the front..

but for rear.. they have slotted and drilled.. so i would opt for the rotora slotted rear just to match the looks with the front..

that just my reason dunno about the others. haha

 

If you are interested, here is what the R1Concepts rotors look like.

 

the legend calipers are well worth the money at 75$ each
Looking at some pads that have marks from both types caliper, so much more total area and pressure spread across the pad back- plus the middle finger on the outer pressure bars
Your cars calipers are probably due for an overhaul anyway, and for the same price as replacement TL calipers...

SS brake lines ~ 120$ improved the pedal feel in all conditions- doesnt expand when pressure is applied,
Watch the hose while someone pumps the brakes,, simulate bleeding them
Yikes!!! now look at a car with SS- no motion

The front brakes do 70% of the braking force/torque, so you want to run the really good stuff there
there are a few brands that visually match the RB fronts and have good mettalugry- Their side slots go the opposite direction of many others

The rears have enough force now, and any more would just encourage the rear end to step out in the corner. The front/rear brake bias valving is pretty good on the car as is

your shop was trying to help you out financially and just resurface, not understanding the weak nature of the stock TL rotor and how it gets worse with the shake after resurface

The named stuff on here is all you will ever need- the rotors and pad compound choices based on how you normally and in extreme conditions- will be driving
Fit the parts to you~

 

Do yourself a favor and avoid the eBay rotors. If you're on a limited budget (aren't we all these days? ) and looking for good stock replacement rotors, I'd suggest Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors. The quality is top notch, good metallurgy, good price, and it also has painted hubs and outer edges to prevent the ugly rusted look. I've had them on my car for over a year now and my brakes work very smooth, no vibrations whatsoever. Good luck with whatever you use.

Click here - Raybestos Advanced Technology

 

thanks guys

 

Let me know what you are looking for, I can see what i can get you drilled \ slotted, blanks, whatever.

 

Welcome new sponsoring vendor brakemotive!! Those people make acurazine happen for us every month!

What brands can you get for us Jim? on the low, mid, and high end examples

 

racingbrake rotors

 

Hello Jim,

I'm looking for front and rear rotors for my 2000 Acura 3.2TL. I'm a little lost in all of the options and was hoping you could answer some of my questions.

I see your listings on your Ebay store as well as several other brake vendors that have brakes that look very similar and a little less expensive. R1Concepts, top_brakes, brakelabs, brakemasters.

What is different about your rotors from them? I see the brakemotive listings mention SAEJ431 metallurgy. Is that uncommon? What do you think they are using.

Other vendors tout the diamond patterned slots because they supposedly don't accumulate debris at the ends. Yours claim round is better because they don't get smaller with wear. The diamond patterns look more difficult to produce so it seems strange that they would choose to machine them that way if they didn't think they were better.

Are your rotors available slotted but not cross-drilled? Respected members in this forum have poo pooed the cross-drilling. Any comments?

I'm not an aggressive driver by this board's standards. I'll never be on a track or race anybody. I'm dealing with stop and go suburban traffic and the occasional ermergency stop. I'm looking for safe, won't warp smooth, quiet, long lasting, dust free. In that order, not super performance.

Would your rotors pair well with Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads. I've seen good reviews of those and they have an integrated shim which sounds superior to me.

Last for now, are the prices on the Ebay store the same you will quote me in a PM, or do we get even better deals here on Acurazine?

 

price info should be requested by PM, the vendors dont sit on the threads all day~

Good blank face rotors are the way to go for basic normal driving
Basic pads to match the rotors will stop the car fine
All the nonsense about which way side slots point and what shape etc etc,,,thats great if you get the pad heat to temp limit,,, and need the special outgassing relief ports,,
otherwise its all bling to the street driver

 

my EBC Ultimaxx Rotors were pretty cheap and no warping after a year so far. I use Akebono ProACT pads all around.

A major cause of rotor warping is improper lug nut torque. 80 lbs is what our wheels should be torqued down to. I was at a place getting food and next door was a rim shop..i cringed when I saw a S430 getting some dubs put on and dude was using an impact wrench for a very long time on each lug and told the owner "these muhfukkas ain't gettin' took by no one" damn I love ATL

 

I'm glad to read your EBC rotors have held up- I just installed some myself. Did you buy the blanks? Which pads did you choose?

Thanks for mentioning lug nut torque/tightening sequence. It should be mentioned often.

On a related note, I noticed when I had mine off that a very small portion of one of the rotor retaining screws (which had been partially removed previously by whoever) was ever so slightly protruding from the hub so I ground it down... Definitely something to watch out for.

 

No need to worry, the two screws that hold the rotor in are pretty pointless.

 

I know, my point is it could been a cause for the rotor not to clamp down squarely against the hub.

 

Thanks, good advice, I will PM him. I started the post as a PM and decided to put it in the thread because I figured others would be interested in the answers too. I imagine there are a lot of folks who have the same questions.

So which are the cheapest blanks that are equal or better than OEM and won't "warp".

 

See post #12.

 

Are the Raybestos about $70 for a front pair? We don't have Kragen in the Portland, OR area. Is there another chain that probably has them?