Replacing EGR Valve
02-22-2005, 03:13 AM
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Check engine light ouT!!!!
Hey guys...long time since I posted last. Anyway, I was inspired by this thread today, and I decided to take the plunge by trying and getting rid of my damned check engine light that has been pissing me off for about 2 yrs now...That's right 2friggin years!!! Here is my story. Pretty long, but worth the wait cuz I solved this problem WITHOUT taking much apart.
At around 75000 miles, my check engine light came on, took it to the dealer, and it was the EGR error code that came up on the comp. Dealer quoted $450 for the repair...I said screw it, it's not going to harm the car if it's the EGR. So, I just drove with the annoying light on for 2 yrs.
Anyway, after reading this thread, I went to my friends station, and was ready to take apart the EGR, and replace it. Anyway, my friend's dad suggested I take baby steps at trying to solve this problem, so he explained that the idle control unit can sometimes get dirty and malfunction. Normally, they would replace the entire part, but he suggested I simply spray some carb cleaner with the throttle bottle exposed while revving the engine a few times.
I said, ok, let's give this a try since it's so easy. I exposed the throttle body by removing the air filter cover COMPLETELY off, and found a small notch that seemed to be directly going to the idle control unit at the bottom. One thing I observed was that the engine would die when I took off the air filter cover, and when revved a few times, the RPM would go up, but settle down at a VERY low RPM...Barely keeping the engine alive. We proceeded with the carb cleaner sprays into the throttle body, and revving in between sprays. I would say we did this about 5 times. Next we sprayed directly into the notch to the Idle control unit, and revved some more about 3 times. RPM was higher!!!!
I could not beleive how easy the solution was. I went into the car, and looked at the gauge cluster, and the damned Check engine light was out!!!!!!!! I thought it was too good to be true, so I turned off the engine and started it back up, and the light was still out.
In the past, when I would disconnect the battery to try to turn the Check engine light off, the light would be off for about half a mile, and it would come right back on, so I figured this was the same case. My friend's and I drove around to the mall, and to eat, and the light STAYED off. We drove about 30 miles, and the light was still off.
I also notice that when starting the car warm, the idle doesn't dip and vibrate like it used to. It stays constant.
Well, that's my experience with this problem. CARB CLEANER. I hope this helps some of you guys, and for those concerned about taking things apart, this is a good start, I would say. For now, I am a happy camper, I just hope the damned light doesn't come back on soon. If it does, I'm going to try what I did again, and hope that it works. I currently have 147,000 miles on my 99 TL, and I have had ZERO problems with my car. I guess I got lucky. The only problem was the EGR thing, and I got rid of that, so far.
At around 75000 miles, my check engine light came on, took it to the dealer, and it was the EGR error code that came up on the comp. Dealer quoted $450 for the repair...I said screw it, it's not going to harm the car if it's the EGR. So, I just drove with the annoying light on for 2 yrs.
Anyway, after reading this thread, I went to my friends station, and was ready to take apart the EGR, and replace it. Anyway, my friend's dad suggested I take baby steps at trying to solve this problem, so he explained that the idle control unit can sometimes get dirty and malfunction. Normally, they would replace the entire part, but he suggested I simply spray some carb cleaner with the throttle bottle exposed while revving the engine a few times.
I said, ok, let's give this a try since it's so easy. I exposed the throttle body by removing the air filter cover COMPLETELY off, and found a small notch that seemed to be directly going to the idle control unit at the bottom. One thing I observed was that the engine would die when I took off the air filter cover, and when revved a few times, the RPM would go up, but settle down at a VERY low RPM...Barely keeping the engine alive. We proceeded with the carb cleaner sprays into the throttle body, and revving in between sprays. I would say we did this about 5 times. Next we sprayed directly into the notch to the Idle control unit, and revved some more about 3 times. RPM was higher!!!!
I could not beleive how easy the solution was. I went into the car, and looked at the gauge cluster, and the damned Check engine light was out!!!!!!!! I thought it was too good to be true, so I turned off the engine and started it back up, and the light was still out.
In the past, when I would disconnect the battery to try to turn the Check engine light off, the light would be off for about half a mile, and it would come right back on, so I figured this was the same case. My friend's and I drove around to the mall, and to eat, and the light STAYED off. We drove about 30 miles, and the light was still off.
I also notice that when starting the car warm, the idle doesn't dip and vibrate like it used to. It stays constant.
Well, that's my experience with this problem. CARB CLEANER. I hope this helps some of you guys, and for those concerned about taking things apart, this is a good start, I would say. For now, I am a happy camper, I just hope the damned light doesn't come back on soon. If it does, I'm going to try what I did again, and hope that it works. I currently have 147,000 miles on my 99 TL, and I have had ZERO problems with my car. I guess I got lucky. The only problem was the EGR thing, and I got rid of that, so far.
02-22-2005, 05:30 PM
#44
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by hemoglobin23
Hey guys...long time since I posted last. Anyway, I was inspired by this thread today, and I decided to take the plunge by trying and getting rid of my damned check engine light that has been pissing me off for about 2 yrs now...That's right 2friggin years!!! Here is my story. Pretty long, but worth the wait cuz I solved this problem WITHOUT taking much apart.
At around 75000 miles, my check engine light came on, took it to the dealer, and it was the EGR error code that came up on the comp. Dealer quoted $450 for the repair...I said screw it, it's not going to harm the car if it's the EGR. So, I just drove with the annoying light on for 2 yrs.
Anyway, after reading this thread, I went to my friends station, and was ready to take apart the EGR, and replace it. Anyway, my friend's dad suggested I take baby steps at trying to solve this problem, so he explained that the idle control unit can sometimes get dirty and malfunction. Normally, they would replace the entire part, but he suggested I simply spray some carb cleaner with the throttle bottle exposed while revving the engine a few times.
I said, ok, let's give this a try since it's so easy. I exposed the throttle body by removing the air filter cover COMPLETELY off, and found a small notch that seemed to be directly going to the idle control unit at the bottom. One thing I observed was that the engine would die when I took off the air filter cover, and when revved a few times, the RPM would go up, but settle down at a VERY low RPM...Barely keeping the engine alive. We proceeded with the carb cleaner sprays into the throttle body, and revving in between sprays. I would say we did this about 5 times. Next we sprayed directly into the notch to the Idle control unit, and revved some more about 3 times. RPM was higher!!!!
I could not beleive how easy the solution was. I went into the car, and looked at the gauge cluster, and the damned Check engine light was out!!!!!!!! I thought it was too good to be true, so I turned off the engine and started it back up, and the light was still out.
In the past, when I would disconnect the battery to try to turn the Check engine light off, the light would be off for about half a mile, and it would come right back on, so I figured this was the same case. My friend's and I drove around to the mall, and to eat, and the light STAYED off. We drove about 30 miles, and the light was still off.
I also notice that when starting the car warm, the idle doesn't dip and vibrate like it used to. It stays constant.
Well, that's my experience with this problem. CARB CLEANER. I hope this helps some of you guys, and for those concerned about taking things apart, this is a good start, I would say. For now, I am a happy camper, I just hope the damned light doesn't come back on soon. If it does, I'm going to try what I did again, and hope that it works. I currently have 147,000 miles on my 99 TL, and I have had ZERO problems with my car. I guess I got lucky. The only problem was the EGR thing, and I got rid of that, so far.
At around 75000 miles, my check engine light came on, took it to the dealer, and it was the EGR error code that came up on the comp. Dealer quoted $450 for the repair...I said screw it, it's not going to harm the car if it's the EGR. So, I just drove with the annoying light on for 2 yrs.
Anyway, after reading this thread, I went to my friends station, and was ready to take apart the EGR, and replace it. Anyway, my friend's dad suggested I take baby steps at trying to solve this problem, so he explained that the idle control unit can sometimes get dirty and malfunction. Normally, they would replace the entire part, but he suggested I simply spray some carb cleaner with the throttle bottle exposed while revving the engine a few times.
I said, ok, let's give this a try since it's so easy. I exposed the throttle body by removing the air filter cover COMPLETELY off, and found a small notch that seemed to be directly going to the idle control unit at the bottom. One thing I observed was that the engine would die when I took off the air filter cover, and when revved a few times, the RPM would go up, but settle down at a VERY low RPM...Barely keeping the engine alive. We proceeded with the carb cleaner sprays into the throttle body, and revving in between sprays. I would say we did this about 5 times. Next we sprayed directly into the notch to the Idle control unit, and revved some more about 3 times. RPM was higher!!!!
I could not beleive how easy the solution was. I went into the car, and looked at the gauge cluster, and the damned Check engine light was out!!!!!!!! I thought it was too good to be true, so I turned off the engine and started it back up, and the light was still out.
In the past, when I would disconnect the battery to try to turn the Check engine light off, the light would be off for about half a mile, and it would come right back on, so I figured this was the same case. My friend's and I drove around to the mall, and to eat, and the light STAYED off. We drove about 30 miles, and the light was still off.
I also notice that when starting the car warm, the idle doesn't dip and vibrate like it used to. It stays constant.
Well, that's my experience with this problem. CARB CLEANER. I hope this helps some of you guys, and for those concerned about taking things apart, this is a good start, I would say. For now, I am a happy camper, I just hope the damned light doesn't come back on soon. If it does, I'm going to try what I did again, and hope that it works. I currently have 147,000 miles on my 99 TL, and I have had ZERO problems with my car. I guess I got lucky. The only problem was the EGR thing, and I got rid of that, so far.
the fact that that worked is, well amazing. the parts that are clogged dont get touched by the carb cleaner. taking off the upper intake and cleaning the EGR passages is the real solution and VERY easy.
The reason the dealer wants so much is a redesigned part (the egr isnt cheap) to keep it from happening.
02-23-2005, 12:43 AM
#45
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I think I jinxed myself, by saying "so far" at the end of my post....The check engine light came on again earlier today. BUT this has been, by far, the longest it's been off. I guess I'll be taking off the upper intake next, and cleaning it out. Do you think the EGR actually has to be replaced, or do you think simply unclogging the ports will do the trick, and turn off the check engine light? Thanks guys.
02-23-2005, 06:52 AM
#46
Instructor
Originally Posted by hemoglobin23
I think I jinxed myself, by saying "so far" at the end of my post....The check engine light came on again earlier today. BUT this has been, by far, the longest it's been off. I guess I'll be taking off the upper intake next, and cleaning it out. Do you think the EGR actually has to be replaced, or do you think simply unclogging the ports will do the trick, and turn off the check engine light? Thanks guys.
02-23-2005, 09:06 AM
#47
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Southern
Unclogging the ports will do the trick, the EGR valve itself is not faulty. Think of it as having clogged arteries, a quadruple bypass is all that is usually required, replacement of the heart is not necessary.
02-23-2005, 03:47 PM
#48
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When the light came on did it just come on or did you guys feel the car act funny like it was going to turn off, rpm's were to low, didn't want to start, reason i ask is because my light came on ofter doing all those things, runs fine but light is still on. Does this have something to do with an engine misfire.
02-23-2005, 03:49 PM
#49
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by chilifrost
When the light came on did it just come on or did you guys feel the car act funny like it was going to turn off, rpm's were to low, didn't want to start, reason i ask is because my light came on ofter doing all those things, runs fine but light is still on. Does this have something to do with an engine misfire.
02-23-2005, 05:30 PM
#50
Flyin' and Drivin'
Thread Starter
Well I took off the plastic piece above the engine today and took one look at this sucker.... there isn't any way in hell I can do that. I dont know the first bolt to take off. Damn I'm such a pussy.
02-23-2005, 06:52 PM
#51
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Comet2404
Well I took off the plastic piece above the engine today and took one look at this sucker.... there isn't any way in hell I can do that. I dont know the first bolt to take off. Damn I'm such a pussy.
02-23-2005, 08:09 PM
#52
Instructor
Originally Posted by Comet2404
Well I took off the plastic piece above the engine today and took one look at this sucker.... there isn't any way in hell I can do that. I dont know the first bolt to take off. Damn I'm such a pussy.
02-23-2005, 09:05 PM
#53
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Southern
I agree with fsttyms1. This is no harder than cleaning a clogged sink. On the other hand if your tools consist of a cresent wrench and a screwdriver then I would recommend leaving it alone. I believe having the proper tools for the job. The only tools you would require for this job are a screwdriver, metric socket set, and pliers. A digital cammera would help if your memory is bad when you have to put it back together.
02-24-2005, 09:05 AM
#56
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by chilifrost
How do you reset the comp, the rpm's where so low that it just died 3 times till i just gave it some gas, is that just bad gas, car only has 35k.
why it idles so low is the question to ask
as for how long it should take to clog up again, id say about the same amount of time. both times mine took about 75,000
02-24-2005, 11:40 AM
#57
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hey fsttyms,
i noticed you had the entire top on a wood table. do you have to take it apart to that extent to clean the ports? or can you just spray carb cleaner into the ports with the plastic cover off only?
jung
i noticed you had the entire top on a wood table. do you have to take it apart to that extent to clean the ports? or can you just spray carb cleaner into the ports with the plastic cover off only?
jung
03-02-2005, 11:37 AM
#58
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Originally Posted by Southern
The throttle body has passages to sensors which you should remove if you clean it out with carb cleaner. The hidden pockets will cause idle problems if fluid is left in there.
In my case I started by cleaning out the throttle body since it was sticking. Then I progressed by cleaning out the upper intake manifold and finally the lower intake manifold.
After putting everything back together I reset the PCM. With 87K miles my Acura runs and idles like new.
In my case I started by cleaning out the throttle body since it was sticking. Then I progressed by cleaning out the upper intake manifold and finally the lower intake manifold.
After putting everything back together I reset the PCM. With 87K miles my Acura runs and idles like new.
Also does anybody have the torq that should be used when replacing the manifold cover so not to break the gasket. Thinking of cleaning out the upper manifold and maybe the lower this weekend. Any warnings before I go in.
thanks
03-02-2005, 12:00 PM
#59
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by jjpark
hey fsttyms,
i noticed you had the entire top on a wood table. do you have to take it apart to that extent to clean the ports? or can you just spray carb cleaner into the ports with the plastic cover off only?
jung
i noticed you had the entire top on a wood table. do you have to take it apart to that extent to clean the ports? or can you just spray carb cleaner into the ports with the plastic cover off only?
jung
its not hard to remove teh whole thing
03-02-2005, 12:02 PM
#60
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by chilifrost
Is it hard to clean the out the lower intake manifold.
Also does anybody have the torq that should be used when replacing the manifold cover so not to break the gasket. Thinking of cleaning out the upper manifold and maybe the lower this weekend. Any warnings before I go in.
thanks
Also does anybody have the torq that should be used when replacing the manifold cover so not to break the gasket. Thinking of cleaning out the upper manifold and maybe the lower this weekend. Any warnings before I go in.
thanks
03-02-2005, 01:13 PM
#61
Flyin' and Drivin'
Thread Starter
I'm still nervous about the whole thing. From the looks of it I'm gonna have to take out the throttle body too cause it seems connected to the intake manifold. I'll take some pics of it and maybe someone can point out the bolts to take out.
03-02-2005, 01:49 PM
#62
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just unhook the hoses from the TB and leave it connected to the intake manafold when you clean it...with all of this talk, I think Im going to get mine apart during spring break!!! (the last spring break of my life 
) Im about to have to grow up.
) Im about to have to grow up.
03-02-2005, 03:05 PM
#63
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
the lower isnt necessary to clean. just the upper where the carbon build up is.
those pics you postd earlier in this thread aren't showing..
can you post them again?.
or send them to me?.
joseph.longo@global-terminal.com
i want to do this.
03-02-2005, 03:56 PM
#64
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Comet2404
I'm still nervous about the whole thing. From the looks of it I'm gonna have to take out the throttle body too cause it seems connected to the intake manifold. I'll take some pics of it and maybe someone can point out the bolts to take out.
joseph_99tl here ya go http://www.acurainspired.com/forums/...showtopic=4003
03-02-2005, 05:16 PM
#65
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
just leave the TB conected to the intake manifold.
joseph_99tl here ya go http://www.acurainspired.com/forums/...showtopic=4003
joseph_99tl here ya go http://www.acurainspired.com/forums/...showtopic=4003
03-02-2005, 05:31 PM
#66
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Originally Posted by joseph_99tl
much thx, fsttyms1
03-02-2005, 05:51 PM
#67
Instructor
Originally Posted by chilifrost
Is it hard to clean the out the lower intake manifold.
Also does anybody have the torq that should be used when replacing the manifold cover so not to break the gasket. Thinking of cleaning out the upper manifold and maybe the lower this weekend. Any warnings before I go in.
thanks
Also does anybody have the torq that should be used when replacing the manifold cover so not to break the gasket. Thinking of cleaning out the upper manifold and maybe the lower this weekend. Any warnings before I go in.
thanks
The torque settings for the upper cover and chamber covers are 12 N-m. The torque settings for the upper manifold bolts is 22 N-m.
03-02-2005, 11:22 PM
#69
Flyin' and Drivin'
Thread Starter
Well I went to Acura Carland Stealership today... and they wanted 400 bucks for a new EGR and intake cleaning. I can get the damned EGR for 170, and clean the shit for free. He told me abou the drill bit, and cleaning out the port. He also said that if his tech did it, that it would take him about 4 hours to take it off, clean it, and put it back together. I'm gonna do the shit myself I just decided.... so do I need any special tools to take this manifold off?
03-03-2005, 07:16 AM
#70
Instructor
Originally Posted by Comet2404
Well I went to Acura Carland Stealership today... and they wanted 400 bucks for a new EGR and intake cleaning. I can get the damned EGR for 170, and clean the shit for free. He told me abou the drill bit, and cleaning out the port. He also said that if his tech did it, that it would take him about 4 hours to take it off, clean it, and put it back together. I'm gonna do the shit myself I just decided.... so do I need any special tools to take this manifold off?
The only tools you will need are: metric socket set, pliers & screwdriver, along with some carb cleaner, rags, stiff brushes, and several hours of your time.
03-03-2005, 09:32 AM
#71
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Recall on Egr Valve
I bought my acura 3.2tl last year, and I didnt know the egr valve was messed up. Someone had took my check engine light out. I now have to pass emmisions and must follow your instructions, but if your car has less than 70 or 80 thousand miles the acura dealership will fix this problem for free. 
I appreciate the site it is very useful.
I appreciate the site it is very useful.
03-03-2005, 01:48 PM
#72
Flyin' and Drivin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Southern
You can save yourself an additional $170 and re-use the EGR valve since nothing should be wrong with it.
The only tools you will need are: metric socket set, pliers & screwdriver, along with some carb cleaner, rags, stiff brushes, and several hours of your time.
The only tools you will need are: metric socket set, pliers & screwdriver, along with some carb cleaner, rags, stiff brushes, and several hours of your time.
hmm.. good point.
04-06-2005, 06:03 AM
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I gotta do this on my TL.
However, it looks like it is hard and I have no idea where to start from. I know you guys said it is easy job, but it looks hard to me. Anyways, do I need to remove the TB that is connected to intake manifold? Take whole thing out after removing all hoses? What about the cable that pulls the Throttle? How do I remove that?
thanks.
However, it looks like it is hard and I have no idea where to start from. I know you guys said it is easy job, but it looks hard to me. Anyways, do I need to remove the TB that is connected to intake manifold? Take whole thing out after removing all hoses? What about the cable that pulls the Throttle? How do I remove that?
thanks.
04-06-2005, 08:41 AM
#74
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first of all it's not very hard to do if you are at all mechanically inclined and remember where all the hoses & wiring go when your putting it all back together.
you don't want to remove the t/b from the intake mani unless you have the t/b gasket as it is NOT re-useable.
you'll need a torque wrench to re-assemble, the torque specs are on this thread
peace, Jeff
you don't want to remove the t/b from the intake mani unless you have the t/b gasket as it is NOT re-useable.
you'll need a torque wrench to re-assemble, the torque specs are on this thread
peace, Jeff
04-06-2005, 09:17 AM
#75
Senior Moderator
its extremly easy if you know what a socket wrench, pliers, and screwdriver is
Post #4
http://www.acurainspired.com/forums/...showtopic=4003
start off by getting 3 or so cans of SPRAY carb cleaner and acouple small scrub brushes.
if your engine is any thing like the 2nd gen
baisicly you take the plastic engine cover off 4 10-mm bolts. then disconect the battery. they disconect the rubber hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. continue to unplg any thing that goes to the intake (any plugins hoses) then there are 10 10mm bolts on the top plate (the part that sticks up thru the plastic engine cover) oull that straight up being carefull to not damage teh gasket. then there are like 8 bolts (12mm i think, i cant remember off the top of my head) then you are able to pull the upper part of the intake manifold off (double check before you pull straight up that every thing is disconected) then get your self a nice place to work and start cleaning. (stick a bag over the TB before you hose every thing down like in my pic to be safe)
it sounds like alot but its really easy should take about a hrto 2 to do
Post #4
http://www.acurainspired.com/forums/...showtopic=4003
start off by getting 3 or so cans of SPRAY carb cleaner and acouple small scrub brushes.
if your engine is any thing like the 2nd gen
baisicly you take the plastic engine cover off 4 10-mm bolts. then disconect the battery. they disconect the rubber hose that goes from the air box to the throttle body. continue to unplg any thing that goes to the intake (any plugins hoses) then there are 10 10mm bolts on the top plate (the part that sticks up thru the plastic engine cover) oull that straight up being carefull to not damage teh gasket. then there are like 8 bolts (12mm i think, i cant remember off the top of my head) then you are able to pull the upper part of the intake manifold off (double check before you pull straight up that every thing is disconected) then get your self a nice place to work and start cleaning. (stick a bag over the TB before you hose every thing down like in my pic to be safe)
it sounds like alot but its really easy should take about a hrto 2 to do
01-07-2010, 04:37 PM
#77
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So I guess that my port were cleaned about 60,000 miles ago, is it possible that this may be the problem again? its throwing the p1491 code. Or should i just reaplace the egr valve?
01-11-2010, 07:25 AM
#79
Clean out your intake like the DIY shows. I did this two weeks ago and you would not believe how nasty and oily mine was just by taking off the very top cover. See if that fixes your problem with the code first. If you have to change the EGR valve it is VERY easy. I think it's just two bolts and swap out.
01-12-2010, 08:48 PM
#80
Moderator
I now this is off the topic (or i think it is)
but doing a Seafoam does a Huge help to clean the intake Manifold and EGR Valve for people that is not willing to take off the IM nor have the Experience to do it.
i did the seafoam service 3 times in a row for the Intake Manifold and god the car runs just like new the iddle is super smooth and all, so Taking it out and clean it manually will do a greater good? if i try it would i get even more acceleration that i gain from Seafoaming it? im telling this becouse i bought my car Used and it came with the Comptech Supercharger that i dont have any idea how to take it off and by the photos i seen to take off the IM the Supercharger really gets on its way. i even had real trouble trying to find the PCV valve since i was guiding by the Seafoam DIY in here!!
so the difference is not that much greater to even try it?? cuz its that much of a difference lol (the legend is real, Seafoam aint a Scam!!)
but doing a Seafoam does a Huge help to clean the intake Manifold and EGR Valve for people that is not willing to take off the IM nor have the Experience to do it.
i did the seafoam service 3 times in a row for the Intake Manifold and god the car runs just like new the iddle is super smooth and all, so Taking it out and clean it manually will do a greater good? if i try it would i get even more acceleration that i gain from Seafoaming it? im telling this becouse i bought my car Used and it came with the Comptech Supercharger that i dont have any idea how to take it off and by the photos i seen to take off the IM the Supercharger really gets on its way. i even had real trouble trying to find the PCV valve since i was guiding by the Seafoam DIY in here!!
so the difference is not that much greater to even try it?? cuz its that much of a difference lol (the legend is real, Seafoam aint a Scam!!)
Last edited by Skirmich; 01-12-2010 at 08:50 PM.