Rear Wheel Bearing
#1
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Rear Wheel Bearing
well, i have done a search on this topic and come up with some good info, but i still need to know if anyone has done a rear wheel bearing change on there own and can help me out with the procedure. I have been getting this awful loud road noise getting the worst around 80 to 90 mph, seems vehicle speed related and it must be from my right rear bearing.
I would luv to this job myself, but i am worried about the parking brake assembly, after taking off the caliper, rotor, do i have to disasseble the parking brake assembly or does it come off as a whole?
Any instructions anyone has got out there would be great, i even have the service manual, but they do not tell you how to do it, they just show a exploded view which can only tell you so much.
thanx for any help.
I would luv to this job myself, but i am worried about the parking brake assembly, after taking off the caliper, rotor, do i have to disasseble the parking brake assembly or does it come off as a whole?
Any instructions anyone has got out there would be great, i even have the service manual, but they do not tell you how to do it, they just show a exploded view which can only tell you so much.
thanx for any help.
#2
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Im not sure how the rear comes off, wether you can get it off in 1 piece or if you have to dissasemble it. (or if you even need to)
Looks like you should be able to remove the (brass cover in the middle) and remove the nut in the middle. Once thats removed the the rear hub piece (part with the lugs) should come off (not sure but you may need a puller???)
Looks like you should be able to remove the (brass cover in the middle) and remove the nut in the middle. Once thats removed the the rear hub piece (part with the lugs) should come off (not sure but you may need a puller???)
#3
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I'm watching this one closely. I need to replace mine too. I've already thrown about a grand into my baby for tires, brakes, turning the rotors, and replacing a broken wheel stud. So if I can do this on my own I'd be grateful!
#4
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Originally Posted by FuzzyNutz
I'm watching this one closely. I need to replace mine too. I've already thrown about a grand into my baby for tires, brakes, turning the rotors, and replacing a broken wheel stud. So if I can do this on my own I'd be grateful!
#5
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feewww
Thats awsome, i am so happy
It should be a piece of cake then because i thought the hub piece was behind the the parking brake, but since it's not, it's basically just a bolt on component, with the addition of a lot of elbow grease.
I am buying the hub assembly today from murrays for 75.99 with a lifetime warrenty, and doing the job this saturday morning, I will take pics as i go along for a diy thread if you guys want.
It should be a piece of cake then because i thought the hub piece was behind the the parking brake, but since it's not, it's basically just a bolt on component, with the addition of a lot of elbow grease.
I am buying the hub assembly today from murrays for 75.99 with a lifetime warrenty, and doing the job this saturday morning, I will take pics as i go along for a diy thread if you guys want.
#6
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Originally Posted by fred3113
Thats awsome, i am so happy
It should be a piece of cake then because i thought the hub piece was behind the the parking brake, but since it's not, it's basically just a bolt on component, with the addition of a lot of elbow grease.
I am buying the hub assembly today from murrays for 75.99 with a lifetime warrenty, and doing the job this saturday morning, I will take pics as i go along for a diy thread if you guys want.
It should be a piece of cake then because i thought the hub piece was behind the the parking brake, but since it's not, it's basically just a bolt on component, with the addition of a lot of elbow grease.
I am buying the hub assembly today from murrays for 75.99 with a lifetime warrenty, and doing the job this saturday morning, I will take pics as i go along for a diy thread if you guys want.
#7
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job complete
Well, i am happy to report that the job is done and it took about 1.5 hours and thats only because i had to beat the rear rotor for half an hour to get it loose to get it off.
1. remove wheel
2. remove caliper
3. remove rotor (might take some beating on with a rubber mallet to loosen up)
4. remove brass cap that covers the axle nut as shown in the picture above, small flat head screwdriver and a hammer did the trick
5. remove axle nut ( I accomplished this with a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a 32mm socket, and nut came off with ease)
6. hub assembly slid right out
7. install new hub assembly and repeat directions in reverse order.
Should have taken 45 minutes but because the rear rotor required some beatin it took 1.5 hours, and mission accomplished, she is as quiet as day one. Gotta love DIY's. Total cost 75.99 for hub asm. 24.99 for craftsman 1/2 drive breaker bar, 9.99 for 32mm socket, reward= priceless!!
Thanx everyone on this forum for your help, especially fsttyms1.
1. remove wheel
2. remove caliper
3. remove rotor (might take some beating on with a rubber mallet to loosen up)
4. remove brass cap that covers the axle nut as shown in the picture above, small flat head screwdriver and a hammer did the trick
5. remove axle nut ( I accomplished this with a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a 32mm socket, and nut came off with ease)
6. hub assembly slid right out
7. install new hub assembly and repeat directions in reverse order.
Should have taken 45 minutes but because the rear rotor required some beatin it took 1.5 hours, and mission accomplished, she is as quiet as day one. Gotta love DIY's. Total cost 75.99 for hub asm. 24.99 for craftsman 1/2 drive breaker bar, 9.99 for 32mm socket, reward= priceless!!
Thanx everyone on this forum for your help, especially fsttyms1.
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#9
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Originally Posted by fred3113
Well, i am happy to report that the job is done and it took about 1.5 hours and thats only because i had to beat the rear rotor for half an hour to get it loose to get it off.
1. remove wheel
2. remove caliper
3. remove rotor (might take some beating on with a rubber mallet to loosen up)
4. remove brass cap that covers the axle nut as shown in the picture above, small flat head screwdriver and a hammer did the trick
5. remove axle nut ( I accomplished this with a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a 32mm socket, and nut came off with ease)
6. hub assembly slid right out
7. install new hub assembly and repeat directions in reverse order.
Should have taken 45 minutes but because the rear rotor required some beatin it took 1.5 hours, and mission accomplished, she is as quiet as day one. Gotta love DIY's. Total cost 75.99 for hub asm. 24.99 for craftsman 1/2 drive breaker bar, 9.99 for 32mm socket, reward= priceless!!
Thanx everyone on this forum for your help, especially fsttyms1.
1. remove wheel
2. remove caliper
3. remove rotor (might take some beating on with a rubber mallet to loosen up)
4. remove brass cap that covers the axle nut as shown in the picture above, small flat head screwdriver and a hammer did the trick
5. remove axle nut ( I accomplished this with a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a 32mm socket, and nut came off with ease)
6. hub assembly slid right out
7. install new hub assembly and repeat directions in reverse order.
Should have taken 45 minutes but because the rear rotor required some beatin it took 1.5 hours, and mission accomplished, she is as quiet as day one. Gotta love DIY's. Total cost 75.99 for hub asm. 24.99 for craftsman 1/2 drive breaker bar, 9.99 for 32mm socket, reward= priceless!!
Thanx everyone on this forum for your help, especially fsttyms1.
#10
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just curious
I thought thats what it was, Would it happen to be that black rubber grommet that fills up the hole thru the rotor, if i remove that there is a hole present , what do i do next to release brake shoe adjuster?
Do you just use a flathead screwdriver?
Do you just use a flathead screwdriver?
#11
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by fred3113
I thought thats what it was, Would it happen to be that black rubber grommet that fills up the hole thru the rotor, if i remove that there is a hole present , what do i do next to release brake shoe adjuster?
Do you just use a flathead screwdriver?
Do you just use a flathead screwdriver?
#12
Did you buy the hub brand new with the bearing included? Is there any reason why you didn't replace just the bearing alone? I would like to do mine but I am afraid I don't have the proper tool for the tasks.
#13
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Originally Posted by acutee
Did you buy the hub brand new with the bearing included? Is there any reason why you didn't replace just the bearing alone? I would like to do mine but I am afraid I don't have the proper tool for the tasks.
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I have no doubt that I can do this,.. but Fred, did you take picts as you replaced the hub? Like for a DIY thread? I am just afraid that I'm going to get into it and get surprised by something. Oh,.. and can you tell (visually) that the bearing was bad after you took it off?
#16
The rear sounds simple enough as everyone mentioned, but the front won't be easy. You can bang the bearing out but you need to have the press tool to install a new bearing. The rear, the hub and bearing is one unit thus replacing the bearing is replacing the hub that is why it is a simple. I believe the bearings have gone bad on mine partially due to the warping rotors that I did not replace for a long time.
#17
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Yes for the rears, you have to buy a HUB assembly, which includes the bearings pressed in all ready.
And i appoligize but i did not take any pics, i said i was gonna, but i just started doing the job and by the time i really got into it, i forgot, oops, but be assured that this job is a no brainer if you are a little mechanicaly inclined.
i would rate it a 2.5 out of 5.
I even had a hub removal tool that i borrowed from murrays but i didn't even need it because the old hub asm just slid right out, and i could tell it was bad because when i stuck my finger in the bearing and turned it, there was a lot of play in the bearing , sliding in and out, where a new one is suppose to have no play at all!
As far as tools go, about the only special tool you will need is a 32mm socket for the axle nut. everything else is typical, rachet, rubber mallet, 14mm , 12mm, 17mm wrench, 1/2 drive breaker bar. Should only take about 1 hour max.
And i appoligize but i did not take any pics, i said i was gonna, but i just started doing the job and by the time i really got into it, i forgot, oops, but be assured that this job is a no brainer if you are a little mechanicaly inclined.
i would rate it a 2.5 out of 5.
I even had a hub removal tool that i borrowed from murrays but i didn't even need it because the old hub asm just slid right out, and i could tell it was bad because when i stuck my finger in the bearing and turned it, there was a lot of play in the bearing , sliding in and out, where a new one is suppose to have no play at all!
As far as tools go, about the only special tool you will need is a 32mm socket for the axle nut. everything else is typical, rachet, rubber mallet, 14mm , 12mm, 17mm wrench, 1/2 drive breaker bar. Should only take about 1 hour max.
#18
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Checked with NAPA yesterday, but they don't have it in stock AND they are asking $115 for the hub assembly. There are several places online where I've found it for about $85. Any recomendations where I can find a better deal?
#20
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check murrays
I got mine from Murrays discount auto parts for 75.99 with a lifetime warrenty, and it is made by National Hub Assembly (Federal Mogul) Good brand!!
If you guys and gals have murrays in your area i would definetly get it from there.
Check with your local auto parts store or i believe that autozone.com has it for 75.99 but only 1 or 2 year warrenty.
If you guys and gals have murrays in your area i would definetly get it from there.
Check with your local auto parts store or i believe that autozone.com has it for 75.99 but only 1 or 2 year warrenty.
#22
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If you get the hub assembly there is no need to grease anything as it is a sealed bearing asm.
and i found it for 78.23 on autoopartsworld.com with free shipping!!
and i found it for 78.23 on autoopartsworld.com with free shipping!!
#24
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wheel bearing
Well, from a person that just did the job 2 weeks ago, i can 110% tell you that the rear spindle nut is 32mm, i still have my 32mm socket that i bought for 15.99, lol
p.s. That is for a 2000 TL , as it might be different for newer models, but i dought it, best to check with the dealer if you have a newer one!
p.s. That is for a 2000 TL , as it might be different for newer models, but i dought it, best to check with the dealer if you have a newer one!
#26
Burning Brakes
are those the prices for aftermarket bearings?? or does it matter?? cause if i change something that doesn't usually gets changed, i stick to OEM .. i mean i got my OEM bearings for 67$.
i live close to my dealership, and am friends w/ them. they do'nt mind me ordering my parts online and picking them up even though it says "no walk-ins"
http://www.acuraparts247.com/
i live close to my dealership, and am friends w/ them. they do'nt mind me ordering my parts online and picking them up even though it says "no walk-ins"
http://www.acuraparts247.com/
#27
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bearings
The one i got is aftermarket, but it is made by National Hub Assembly which is made by Federal Mogul. They are a A1 top notch bearing maker and they do make tons of stuff for oem applications, so i couldn't go wrong. I would not be surprised if they are not the ones that make the hub asm for our cars!!
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