Skirmich

Since I didnt take Pics of my Original Install I will now take pics of my Painting + Installation for Future References.


Well I decided to Paint my Legend Calipers since I didnt actually grown fond of the Gunmetal Original Color.


2nd Coating:






I Didnt painted the Piston Area (They Still look Brand New):



This coat is Slowly cooking in the Oven I Will make a 3rd Coat soo If lucky Ill be intalling this suckers this afternoon.

I decided to use Engine Enamel since Caliper Painting isnt working for me, Keeps flaking.



L8ters.

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

yes! black calipers.

whoever is driving my TL now.. they better be enjoying their legend calipers..

01tl4tl

on the bracket- make sure the slider plates that clip in- are clean and relubed -no paint on them where the pads actually slide across

tip to all legend installers; prefill the calipers as able with NEW brake fluid in an oil squirt can
that helps protect the rubber seals on the pistons and displaces air you would otherwise have to get out

flaking paint? how was the prep job of cleaning off crud and oil residue?
brand new, they would have a coating on the surface that carb cleaner or brake cleaner makes quick work of before painting

or do you play race driver and get them really hot?

JterrorC

iTrader: (1)

id say both..

Skirmich

Sooo I kinda back Intalled them without taking Pics DUHH!!!
I prep them with Sand paper + Brake Cleaner.

The OEM were painted with Caliper Paint that kep Flaking again and Again with same procedure as the Legends. They say they hold up- up to 500*F "Intermitent" engine enamel Hold Up to 500*F Continous...


PD: I kinda have Low Pedal feel this time, what the hell could be wrong? Air was bleed and Calipers were pre-Filled before Installing the Lines. It brakes but Pushing the pedal way more than before. Is it Normal? or I did something wrong Before?

01tl4tl

oh I forgot to re-mention,,sorry

any time you have the lines open- like calipers off the car for painting

after you put it back together you MUST do 2 ABS active stops from 45mph
that will force air that made its way in and got trapped in ABS controller,, out into the regular lines--on my car it went to LF -a few bubbles..then braking much improved after a rebleed of full system to be safe

Only way to get it out is to make the abs pump operate!!

Find loose gravel, wet road, anything to break traction--
then while using MAX effort-
I mean both feet on the brake like you are trying to avoid going under a semi truck!!
AND if needed- sharply turn steering back and forth, as if going around a stopped car directly in front of you, and back into your lane

The idea is create unequal traction =wheel speed- between left and right fronts
the brake pedal will pulsate heavily when abs active-- a feeling you can tell for sure!!

the procedure: get to 45mph and stomp and steer to break traction- down to full stop.
then accellerate normally to 45 and stomp the brakes again to fully stopped.

IF the 2nd effort has a firmer pedal feel to it, you had air in the abs
Its now headed for a caliper- LF= driver front is where you start the TL bleed so thats where you start now
LF RF RR LR is the TL order or probs will occur

01tl4tl

what are you on for brake fluid? DOT4? synthetic or reg. name brand?

users report the dot 5.1 makes firmer pedal too, buts its 15+ bucks a qt!

you are running the calipers on opposite side? l on r so the bleeder is at top?

only 500 degrees paint? temps exceed 600 no problem when used hard

Skirmich

Alright 01tl Ill do that for sure!! Hope I dont end up in a tree or something...

Im currently Using Motul DOT 5.1 but I dont do track days or Anything I Just like to normally Drive Real Hard so I rely on Brakes alot more than the Gas..

Yes Im running the Calipers Opposite L < R and R > L.

What Im remembering now is that I only bleed the Fronts and left the Backs like that without bleeding, could that be my Issue? I have to do the full bleeding dont I?

Thanks for the Input!

01tl4tl

answered your own question there did ya!!

LF RF RR LR all 4 all the time

Skirmich

What a Wuss car, You were right 01tl! It needed a Full Bleeding, My pedal is back to Normal. The wierd thing is that No air were Inside it came out crystal clear! But my Pedal is Back to Normal Soooo. Thank you 01tl..

01tl4tl

then you might still have air in the lines
Did you do a real bleed or just a few pump-opens and no air... so it looked good?

Skirmich

Nah I Used a Full Liter of Motul bleed all the Old Liquid Out more than 10 times pump-close on the fronts and like 20 for the backs with the help of my Brother.

All is back to Normal Tough pedal is were it Used to be by Now.

01tl4tl

then the air bubbles came out right away!!! just too fast for you to see it happen

you kept going for an extra good job
if it improved the pedal, there was air somewhere in the system
might have been only in the backs,,or the abs