666wokker

Hey guys!

The ol' TL started to make a slight popping noise when turning the wheel not too long ago, got OE struts, so I was thinking the strut bearings were starting to go, also noticed a touch of toe wear on my tires when rotating them....

Took it to my alignment tech today to get it checked real quick, he says my steering knuckle is starting to go..... Would that make the steering pop a little when turning? It dosen't feel like a rack or knuckle issue tho.... it really feels like the bearings, but they don't bind when the car is in the air, just on the ground.....

Sound like my alignment tech is on to something?

Thanks in advance to all who answer

3.2TLc

Hey 666wokker, Do you regularly have all of your car's repairs performed by"your alignment tech" ? Did this tech install the struts for you ? Were the struts bad on top ? This could indeed cause the "popping".


The tire wear could simply be caused by a worn tie rod end. I'd also suggest checking the upper control arm's ball joint which is directly attached to the knuckle. It usually fails before the knuckle itself or the lower ball joint.

The wheel bearing can be checked by supporting the car's effected side up from the ground and grabbing ahold of the top and bottom of the tire, then push in and pull out on it....any slight play would indicate a worn bearing. Watch the top ball joint while doing this. The tie rod end can also be checked by grabbing the tire's sides, then work in and out watching the rod end.

If in doubt, seek another evaluation if you're not sure that your tech is on to something......
other than your wallet !

666wokker

No need to be so demeaning.

I do all my own work on my car, except alignments. I run a large company with a huge maintenance bay.

Every wear part checks out ok, except my struts, they are original. 155k miles. They need replacing.

I think it's the struts, I feel the popping in the frame, not the wheel.... leads me to believe the struts - not to mention the age and mileage - and the fact I've felt this in about 300 taxicabs before..... The only difference is the TL struts aren't binding in the air, just the ground with the weight of the car on them.

Just looking for a few of the old guard here to pipe in, anyone have issues like this before replacement? Just looking to buy a few more months until i get some major side money thru the door..... then it's lowering springs and new struts......

3.2TLc

Hey 666wokker, sorry man...didn't mean to come off abrasively. Often times, tire and alignment shops tend to pad their repairs for profit to the general public. But, running a large maintenance facility along with trained technicians at your disposal.....that changes the situation entirely. You have my apology !

Have your tech pull the strut on the side that's popping. Chances are that it may just be the "top hat" mount or bushings that need to be replaced for now. If you've checked all the other wear parts such as the control arms, ball joints, bushings and sway bar end links, then perhaps your tech is on to something. I don't think that he would want to steer you wrong.

666wokker

It totally feels like the top bearing, but the stumper to me is it isn't binding in the air.

This is the first TL I've owned, hell, never owned an import until now, but always had a fascination with Acura to begin with , and that's pretty much why I question this issue.... I'm well versed, but unfamiliar.

Now if you talk about GM FWD platform....... I could tell you how to re-engineer the whole damn thing....... We put almost 800k on them before we retire it, or it gets wrecked, whichever comes first, heh

fsttyms1

Find a different alignment place.

There are no strut bearings. The shock does not turn with the wheel. Its completely separate from the knuckle.

If you are getting a poping while turning it would be either a ball joint that is worn or the tie rod end. There is physically nothing on the knuckle that turns or would wear out other than ball joints.

As for the tire wear, sounds like you need an alignment due to a little extra toe out

FwC

iTrader: (1)

I think CV axles. Mine popped like crazy after I changed my shocks/springs. I installed duralast gold 4 months ago and am happy with them thus far. They're relatively inexpensive too $120 for the pair with limited lifetime...

666wokker

Awesome, ball joints it is. They pass the prybar test in the air, but they don't on the ground.... Do they have to be load tested to test proper?

Now the question of the century.....

Should I get the press in ball joints, or ante up for the whole wishbone assembly....

I will be eventually lowering the car with springs, not coilovers.....

Fsttyms, did you have to mess with camber when you put your h/r springs in? That will determine what I end up with....

Thanks for the assist!

fsttyms1

No, they can be tested either way BUT its kid of hard to test hem for movement with the tire on the ground. This is why I jack up the car and support it with jack stands. Then I'll lift up on the control arm with the jack to get suspension geometry closer to normal and test.

Press ins are fine, but take a look at the stock control arm bushings and see if they are worn out or have play in them, they too will make a clunking/popping noise. If they do get new control arms. Also check the lower ball joint.

fsttyms1

Oh and no I didn't have to mess with camber but you will be slightly out of spec. Its not a big deal and the car will handle better (with a proper alignment)

666wokker

O.K. .........

Ball joints and tierods are tight as a german virgin.....

Still have that click and pop......

Can feel and hear it telescoping thru the rack, now I'm almost positve it's the knuckle between the rack and steering column....

Gonna throw that $20 hail mary at it tomorrow, will let everyone know


*BTW, fsttyms, thanks for all of your help, direct and indirect! *

3.2TLc

Hey 666wokker, ya may wanna check the cv joints if everything else is good.

666wokker

Finally had a couple hours to tear EVERYTHING down and see WTF is going on..... Still have a clunk when turning the wheel.... Slight shimmy in the steering wheel, like a tire is out of balance....

Ball joints - ripped boot on one, but tight as new.

Tie rods, inner and outer - aged, but tight as new.

CV Axles - aged, but tight as new.

Steering shaft knuckle - looks so good it's like new, didn't even need any grease.


This is about where I flipped out.

Noise still there when turning the steering wheel after disconnecting the rack from the wheel knuckles!

Started looking at the rack itself, REAL HARD.

No movement, mounts solid. Still hear and feel the clunking. Definitely internal to the rack.....

Noticed, tearing through the TL service manual that THE RACK CAN BE ADJUSTED.


Interest piqued......


Turns out, it DID need adjusting! Followed the instructions in the manual for 'Rack Guide Adjustment' to a TEE - Damn car steers like a Corvette now!

No clunk.

No shimmy in the wheel.


So....... For all the suggestions given, thank you, it pointed me into this direction! And if any of you are experiencing anything like this, look into the rack, and try adjusting it before spending a huge load of cash!

3.2TLc

Hey 666wokker, good job sticking to finding a fix !
Sometimes things are not always within the normal wear issues, as you stuck to your guns.

Thanks for passing this info along for future reference !