omg what did i do...
01-13-2010, 10:56 PM
#42
ok so basically you disable any possible way to open your trunk. That little black box is what opens your trunk with the remote and the button in the car and disconnecting the emergency release cable was your last bet but you disconnected that too. Why did you remove that box again?
You're going to have to disassemble that box my friend. There's no other way.
You're going to have to disassemble that box my friend. There's no other way.
01-13-2010, 10:59 PM
#43
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i cant really disable the box haha. i have two subs and 2 amps in the way. i wouldent want to risk hurting those. and i think i can get everything out through that little hole so time isnt perse to much at risk, just i want to get it out. but its not like time critical...i dont think haha.
01-13-2010, 11:01 PM
#44
and you are the one that disconnected it there, so you should know 
,
but on with this:
maybe try taking out your stock sub, it's not like you need it anymore, (and with it out, it will let more of the bass through to the cabin from the trunk), might let you have enough room, depending on how deep the box is, to reach it
OR, you can kill two birds with one stone, an upgrade, with fixing your problem:
,but on with this:
maybe try taking out your stock sub, it's not like you need it anymore, (and with it out, it will let more of the bass through to the cabin from the trunk), might let you have enough room, depending on how deep the box is, to reach it
OR, you can kill two birds with one stone, an upgrade, with fixing your problem:
01-13-2010, 11:07 PM
#45
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the stock sub is out. that hole you see in thet picture to look through is the stock sub hole. and what do you mean upgrade? that box is for my two tens that i upgraded from stock from
01-13-2010, 11:15 PM
#47
1st: maybe get a JDM spoiler, so it will cover up a access hole that you drilled into the top of the trunk (think the third leg), which might let you get a coat hanger down there to pull the lever or whatever you disconnected
2nd: or get a JDM "H" badge/emblem (the full one, not a cut out one [so not like the factory "A"]); and use that to cover up your access hole
both of those options would put you straight above the latch,
but the wing one might be a little too far foward though to get a direct shot, IDK
and the emblem, you would be right above it, but you would have to work around a 90 degree bend though, so a little mirror would help then
and if you do these options, try to work with the smallest hole possible, to make sure they can still get covered up, cause the hole can always be enlarged, and not smaller
then also make sure to seal up the holes really well afterwards, so no water can get in to destoy your amps and subs
so make sure to measure twice and cut/drill once
2nd: or get a JDM "H" badge/emblem (the full one, not a cut out one [so not like the factory "A"]); and use that to cover up your access hole
both of those options would put you straight above the latch,
but the wing one might be a little too far foward though to get a direct shot, IDK
and the emblem, you would be right above it, but you would have to work around a 90 degree bend though, so a little mirror would help then
and if you do these options, try to work with the smallest hole possible, to make sure they can still get covered up, cause the hole can always be enlarged, and not smaller
then also make sure to seal up the holes really well afterwards, so no water can get in to destoy your amps and subs
so make sure to measure twice and cut/drill once
01-13-2010, 11:15 PM
#48
COTM Coordinator
It does actuate the lock but your not going to be able to get it with a pole you would need a light a mirror and something very sturdy to flip the latch. You're gonna have to shine a light in that crack and hold a mirron in there so that you can see where you removed the actuator from so you can see the latch. Then with your sturdy object flip the latch.
01-13-2010, 11:24 PM
#51
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01-13-2010, 11:29 PM
#54
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im not going to go with a spoiler, thats too much out of my budget at the moment. my friend said he got one of his car (not a tl) for 30 bucks from a junkyard. if i can find one for that cost, in NBP, and in good condition, ill go with it. thatd be cheaper/easier than destroying my box.
can someone take a pic of the latch i would have to hit without the actuator on there?
can someone take a pic of the latch i would have to hit without the actuator on there?
01-14-2010, 08:15 AM
#58
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^^^ haha yep. i mean atleast i got my subs working fine for like...two minuites finally before i closed the lid. hahah.
ill see what i can do abotu getting through my box
ill see what i can do abotu getting through my box
01-14-2010, 09:32 AM
#61
Ok...so I understand you messed up the remote way of opening...but the foolproof safety mechanical way of pulling the ripcord to pop the trunk...is that still in there? Because if it is...someone with your same year car should be able to take a picture so you know where to stick your hand to find where to pull.
I don't understand how this happened...or exactly how the thing works.
PS...and I only know this from having installed a tow hitch receiver on my car...you may want to think about possible access from the bottom of the car. If you drill in you will end up in the spare tire well. Obviously you'd be taking a chance but easier to seal up and not visible is always a good thing.
I don't understand how this happened...or exactly how the thing works.
PS...and I only know this from having installed a tow hitch receiver on my car...you may want to think about possible access from the bottom of the car. If you drill in you will end up in the spare tire well. Obviously you'd be taking a chance but easier to seal up and not visible is always a good thing.
01-14-2010, 10:42 AM
#62
PS...and I only know this from having installed a tow hitch receiver on my car...you may want to think about possible access from the bottom of the car. If you drill in you will end up in the spare tire well. Obviously you'd be taking a chance but easier to seal up and not visible is always a good thing.
01-14-2010, 11:48 AM
#63
why can't you just remove the two mounting bolts holding the male portion of the latch to the rear bulkhead, that is the only thing keeping it from opening. I can't see the pictures that are posted Rolls filters all of that here at work. But if you can see the latch then you should be able to use a long screw driver to release it or a long extension to remove the bolts, use a crows foot if you have too.
01-14-2010, 12:40 PM
#67
COTM Coordinator
01-14-2010, 12:43 PM
#68
'13 Hyundai Sonata
01-14-2010, 12:48 PM
#69
COTM Coordinator
Once again, read the thread lol. He can't get into his trunk because there is a ginormous multi million dollar box in the way that can't be destroyed or disassembled or the gods will rid the OP of this world.
01-14-2010, 12:48 PM
#70
The box is big, and locked in place and he has a lot of money in that box and he fears damaging his subs.
I changed my mind. I vote leaving the trunk as is knowing that your $1000 worth of bass is safe in the trunk, even if your car gets stolen.
I changed my mind. I vote leaving the trunk as is knowing that your $1000 worth of bass is safe in the trunk, even if your car gets stolen.
01-14-2010, 02:44 PM
#74
why can't you just remove the two mounting bolts holding the male portion of the latch to the rear bulkhead, that is the only thing keeping it from opening. I can't see the pictures that are posted Rolls filters all of that here at work. But if you can see the latch then you should be able to use a long screw driver to release it or a long extension to remove the bolts, use a crows foot if you have too.
the reason for the JDM spoiler, Mr.HeelToes "Medevil" spoiler, or the JDM "H" badge; to cover up the F***ing hole with the sealent
, so you won't even know it is there, think of it as the beuaty shield that Honda had made for the engine, but for the trunk itself
01-14-2010, 03:43 PM
#79
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