Noob with Acura, planning on buying 2g TL-s
#81
You lose tons of power in using lower grade, You notice this more in the hwy when you want to overtake the car wont have any pull at all.
Also before you consider using lower grade: You don´t save any money using lower grade gas because the car tends to lower its MPG due to the timing used in order to burn regular gas. This has been discussed several times before in the forum, there is a huge thread on it too. The car is already very efficient on Premium for a V6 too..
Also before you consider using lower grade: You don´t save any money using lower grade gas because the car tends to lower its MPG due to the timing used in order to burn regular gas. This has been discussed several times before in the forum, there is a huge thread on it too. The car is already very efficient on Premium for a V6 too..
#82
Ironically, I use a 93 on my 89 Celica as it bogs down when I use an 87 octane... The 3sge engine is a high revving engine thus needing premium gas... on the other hand, our 2012 Odyssey only gets an 87 octane since it was bought...
Yeah, if you guys are getting at least 22 on a mixed for a 3.2l, 24v, V6 engine, thats that's pretty impressive... I remember back when it was a notion to say that V6 engines are guzzlers...
Yeah, if you guys are getting at least 22 on a mixed for a 3.2l, 24v, V6 engine, thats that's pretty impressive... I remember back when it was a notion to say that V6 engines are guzzlers...
#83
You lose tons of power in using lower grade, You notice this more in the hwy when you want to overtake the car wont have any pull at all.
Also before you consider using lower grade: You don´t save any money using lower grade gas because the car tends to lower its MPG due to the timing used in order to burn regular gas. This has been discussed several times before in the forum, there is a huge thread on it too. The car is already very efficient on Premium for a V6 too..
Also before you consider using lower grade: You don´t save any money using lower grade gas because the car tends to lower its MPG due to the timing used in order to burn regular gas. This has been discussed several times before in the forum, there is a huge thread on it too. The car is already very efficient on Premium for a V6 too..
I always use premium which is 93 around here. The other day the attendant (nj they pump it) put in regular after I said super. I noticed the car felt a kind of sluggish the few times I was passing on the highway. Looked later at the receipt and noticed it said regular. It definitely de tunes and will get lower mpgs.
#84
This happened to me in México since they all Pump the gas in there? just 2 flavors: Regular 87oct and Premium 91oct.
The service guy put around 20 bucks worth of regular (I was empty) and I was going to a hilly road next.. Tried to overtake a guy in an up level road at 60mph?? Jesus Christ the car would not even move when I dropped to 4th.. It was like I lost 3 cyl or something.. short to say it was embarrassing...
Picture this > I had to further drop to 3rd to get some action and the screaming engine when I was barely faster than the car I was trying to overtake our faces meet half way and I was trying to look the other way.. Kinda like every day Honda Civic ricers do.
The service guy put around 20 bucks worth of regular (I was empty) and I was going to a hilly road next.. Tried to overtake a guy in an up level road at 60mph?? Jesus Christ the car would not even move when I dropped to 4th.. It was like I lost 3 cyl or something.. short to say it was embarrassing...
Picture this > I had to further drop to 3rd to get some action and the screaming engine when I was barely faster than the car I was trying to overtake our faces meet half way and I was trying to look the other way.. Kinda like every day Honda Civic ricers do.
#85
P1750
Owner pulled the codes out today and told me the code was P1750... Ive read around the forum what this code is and it pertains to the shift solenoid... there are no other codes but this one... i know the tranny needs to be replaced eventually... is this the culprit why the owner feels some slippage when the car warms up?
#86
Change the fluid???
I still contend, change the trans fluid with genuine Honda ATF. Do a 3x3 drain and fill. At most, you're out $50. At best, the car shifts better and you drive it for another 10,000 miles or more until you decide what you're going to do. I had a 2002 Honda odyssey that was shuddering between 2nd and 3rd when you drove it like a granny. I did a 3x3 drain and fill and it ran just fine for another 20K, until I sold it.
#87
I should be off for spring break the week after next and most likely getting the car at that time. I will certainly look into doing the drain/fill and some cleaning on the solenoid filter and see if I can get more life out of the transmission before I can save enough, and find the right AV6 part.
#88
I should be off for spring break the week after next and most likely getting the car at that time. I will certainly look into doing the drain/fill and some cleaning on the solenoid filter and see if I can get more life out of the transmission before I can save enough, and find the right AV6 part.
I changed my transmission fluid in July 2013. It was pretty black before, I estimated that it hadn't been changed since the transmission was replaced in 2005 (That's 110,000 miles. Needless to say, it was way overdue). 9 quarts of Honda ATF-DW-1 from my local Honda dealer was right around $80.
I got nearly 20,000 miles out of the fluid (failed September 12 2015) change but bear in mind that was highway miles (I drove the car half way across the state on a regular basis to get too and from school). To be honest my transmission was probably on its last leg before I changed the fluid, but the fluid probably extended its life. However the car wasn't throwing any transmission codes until right before failure.
If you're already getting death codes (P0730, P0740, P1750) it's likely that the damage is already done and changing the fluid and cleaning the solenoid screens will do little to nothing because clutch particles are already everywhere inside of the unit, gumming up the works.
Just my .
#89
Good point... My commute everyday is very short with stop/go traffic in suburban Northern Virginia. Round trip miles for me is no more than 20 miles... After I found out the price of the DW1, it gave me second thoughts knowing that it is indeed on its way... plus factoring in the price of registration and title for the car which is another $125-130, but that's an expense that cannot be avoided so must be done...
I've been calling some yards and so far, their prices seems to be starting at 1k ballpark for a tranny with at least 80k... Lowest I've found was $750 but that's with at least 110k miles +++...
I've been calling some yards and so far, their prices seems to be starting at 1k ballpark for a tranny with at least 80k... Lowest I've found was $750 but that's with at least 110k miles +++...
#90
Regarding the posts about the transmission...for every poster on here that has a transmission go bad on his 2G TL/CL there are 100 in the outside world that dont come on here but still have the same problems.
Using that logic it is safe to say that there is virtually no TL out there that hasnt been affected by the massive transmission failures. And they still will continue to fail as long as the original crapbox is in the car.
And yes the transmission should last a lot longer than 100k before it fails. It is extremely common for all early 90's Hondas to last 300-400k before the automatic transmission goes out. I have 4 in my family that are like this.
Someone cannot make excuses or ignore that these transmissions are a huge problem since there is plenty of information since these came out in 1999. If you say there is not a problem you are fooling yourself.
Using that logic it is safe to say that there is virtually no TL out there that hasnt been affected by the massive transmission failures. And they still will continue to fail as long as the original crapbox is in the car.
And yes the transmission should last a lot longer than 100k before it fails. It is extremely common for all early 90's Hondas to last 300-400k before the automatic transmission goes out. I have 4 in my family that are like this.
Someone cannot make excuses or ignore that these transmissions are a huge problem since there is plenty of information since these came out in 1999. If you say there is not a problem you are fooling yourself.
#91
Sorry, I am trying to figure out where you are coming from with your statement? Is this a rhetoric question, or have I/ or anyone in the thread mentioned that the tranny on this/these car/s has/have no problem?
AFAIK, the car in referred to in this thread is already giving obvious signs that the tranny is about to give... Thanks for any clarification.
AFAIK, the car in referred to in this thread is already giving obvious signs that the tranny is about to give... Thanks for any clarification.
#93
^ I'd agree with yikes above...actually my post #41 on the top of page 2 said the same thing. You may buy some time but that's about all. Probably not worth the worth of it possibly dying on you at an inconvenient time or place. And the car will be so much better with the AV6 swap
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Yikes (03-15-2016)
#94
So I called my friend who has a shop in his house... He referred me to a JDM importer.... I called, they said they do have an 06/07 Accord Transmission... I asked them if it was from a US market but said everything they sell is JDM but it should be the same either way... and the price point is actually significantly less than the USDM transmission for some reason...
So I called my friend, told him that the Tranny is from a JDM car and shared with him my apprehension... is using a JDM tranny be the same as the USDM??? are they exactly the same transmission code? Thanks!
So I called my friend, told him that the Tranny is from a JDM car and shared with him my apprehension... is using a JDM tranny be the same as the USDM??? are they exactly the same transmission code? Thanks!
#96
When it was suggested to replace the differential output seal, I am assuming it is best to replace both sides?
#98
Diff Outputs.
Driver Side: 91205P0X005
Passenger Side: 91206P0Z005
Trans Input.
Main TC: 91207P7Z003
In any case when you are asking for these on a dealership make them tell you they fit the AV6.
Driver Side: 91205P0X005
Passenger Side: 91206P0Z005
Trans Input.
Main TC: 91207P7Z003
In any case when you are asking for these on a dealership make them tell you they fit the AV6.
#99
Thanks. Funny you mentioned that it should fit the AV6... I was actually putting in the TL as the car so I guess the parts I was seeing was for the TL and not for the Accord... so technically I am buying the seals for the Accord and not the Acura... not sure if there's a difference in part design but good to know indeed.
#100
I think they are the same for both trans but in any case since they are going into the AV6 they should be for the AV6 not the TL trans that its going out..
When I bought mine I asked for the AV6 parts directly.. It all fit nicely.
When I bought mine I asked for the AV6 parts directly.. It all fit nicely.
#101
Advice please...
SO I was suppose to go to the yards today... unfortunately, daddy duties came my way and I was not able to do anything car related... since time is really a constraint, how to do guys feel about purchasing a tranny that you have not personally seen and just having it shipped to your door?
SO I was suppose to go to the yards today... unfortunately, daddy duties came my way and I was not able to do anything car related... since time is really a constraint, how to do guys feel about purchasing a tranny that you have not personally seen and just having it shipped to your door?
#102
I think quite a few folks do have engines/trans shipped without actually seeing in person. I'm sure though they can at least send some pictures so you know if it has the sensors intact and at least looks somewhat clean and hasn't been sitting outside in the rain for months.
#103
Look for aluminum oxidation on the outside case and have them send clean pictures of all the solenoids (Don't worry if one is damaged you can literally swap them between the B7WA and the BAYA)..
#106
Date has been set
Next on the list is getting the seals and other parts in... to verify, the rear main seal I need to buy is for the TL and not the Accord's right?
Furthermore, anything in specific that I need to inspect,check and replace as necessary once I'm at it?
This will be my first major DIY that involves swapping a transmssion... I think the most advanced job I've done myself was changing suspension components and lowering a car... hopefully this is a project I can get done and won't have to regret in the end...
The timeline that my wife have me was pretty much the whole weekend... keeping my fingers crossed that I get it done in time...
#107
Yes the main rear seal is for the TL (They all fit a ton of J Series Engines anyway).
1.- Once you are at it, Replace the trans filter (You are swapping this part from your TL to the AV6 so its dirty/clogged highly recommended)
2.- Get new ATF DW-1 (You need 9q for full replacement in the AV6).
3.- Get a NEW AV6 TC (This is completely optional).
1.- Once you are at it, Replace the trans filter (You are swapping this part from your TL to the AV6 so its dirty/clogged highly recommended)
2.- Get new ATF DW-1 (You need 9q for full replacement in the AV6).
3.- Get a NEW AV6 TC (This is completely optional).
#108
Ok... so I've been reviewing and reviewing the AV6 swap write up and have some follow-up questions...
-There should be no seal in between the tranny and the engine correct?
-I am somewhat confused on the part where I need to cut the oil jet kit... What kind of hose/connector do I need once I cut this line? I don't want to be cutting lines without knowing where it goes...what does the oil jet kit look like?
-Am I also flusing the coolant before removing the transmission?
-Any further tips I need to keep in mind considering that this will be my first DIY involving a full tranny removal/install; cross member removal, suspension removal etc???
Thanks in advance..
-There should be no seal in between the tranny and the engine correct?
-I am somewhat confused on the part where I need to cut the oil jet kit... What kind of hose/connector do I need once I cut this line? I don't want to be cutting lines without knowing where it goes...what does the oil jet kit look like?
-Am I also flusing the coolant before removing the transmission?
-Any further tips I need to keep in mind considering that this will be my first DIY involving a full tranny removal/install; cross member removal, suspension removal etc???
Thanks in advance..
#110
Less miles are often better but the 127K is a good price/mile ratio if you are tight of money.
What seal between the tranny and the engine? the Torque Convertor is the only thing between the transmission and the engine.
The AV6 does not use the Jet Kit..
No need to flush the coolant, But since you are removing the ATF Warmer expect to top off and burp the radiator from air.
Take your time is the best advice. Also get the transmission mounts once you are in there they are very cheap and easy to replace.
What seal between the tranny and the engine? the Torque Convertor is the only thing between the transmission and the engine.
The AV6 does not use the Jet Kit..
No need to flush the coolant, But since you are removing the ATF Warmer expect to top off and burp the radiator from air.
Take your time is the best advice. Also get the transmission mounts once you are in there they are very cheap and easy to replace.
#111
yup... I figured there's no seal in between...
I was just a little confused about the oil jet line needing to be cut off from the TL tranny as per the write-up... It appears that I need to transplant the said line (not the jet kit) on the the AV6 so I needed to re-connect it somehow with a different size hose? not sure if I also needed to buy the right hose...
Also, do you have the exact part numbers for the mounts? Are you only referring to the tranny mount and not the whole set?
I was just a little confused about the oil jet line needing to be cut off from the TL tranny as per the write-up... It appears that I need to transplant the said line (not the jet kit) on the the AV6 so I needed to re-connect it somehow with a different size hose? not sure if I also needed to buy the right hose...
Also, do you have the exact part numbers for the mounts? Are you only referring to the tranny mount and not the whole set?
#112
The AV6 should not come with the jet kit so the lines will not be used? My trans had the Jet Kit and I didn't touch it, perhaps because I have an external trans cooler and I needed to disconnect the line from the filter to the housing anyway. I am not sure of that step.
I don't have the part numbers from the mounts since I used aftermarket. No need to go OEM on those they are fairly generic. And I only bought the trans mounts not a whole kit.
I don't have the part numbers from the mounts since I used aftermarket. No need to go OEM on those they are fairly generic. And I only bought the trans mounts not a whole kit.
#113
What do you guys think about this? This is somewhat local I can probably check it out on Friday... If indeed it comes with a year warranty, then is it worth the asking price?
06 07 Honda Accord Automatic Transmission SDN 3 0L Vin M 5th Digit 926494 | eBay
06 07 Honda Accord Automatic Transmission SDN 3 0L Vin M 5th Digit 926494 | eBay
#116
i will also try to call the one with 76k miles and see if i can haggle their price down to 750 instead of 950...
#117
I could be wrong but I would think any warranty of 90 days or more would be a plus. I didn't get one so I guess that could be reason mine was a pretty good deal. I took a chance on it and luckily now after about 5k miles so far so good.
#120
At any point in time any 00-03 TL transmission will fail eventually. The original one (doubt any exist), the second gear recall, the blue bolt recall, doesnt matter...they all will still fail in due time. The only one that will give you a decent shot at having a long life is the AV6 transmission.