Yeah send me a pm and Ill remember when I go toget rid of them. Probably toward the end of the year

 

Ok sounds good

 

I replaced my stock rotors and pads with EBC sport, dimpled, slotted, red stuff pads to try and cure what I consider the worst brake pulsing I've EVER experienced in a car. Didn't do the trick. I was looking for a two piston solution but the only thing available was half the price I spent for the car. This is a great solution. I was thinking that going forward (2004) possibly would be required to get a two piston fix. Going back to 1995 is WAY cheaper. My last statement was I would either cure the brake issues at a reasonable cost or sell the car.

My only question is.. Can I use the EBC rotors that I have a bunch of money tied up in with the Legend Calipers? and I'm using the slides, pins, boots off the Legend calipers and bracket (only) from my 2000 TL?

I ordered the Legend calipers off Amazon as soon as I read this post. I can't see how where you remove air from a hydraulic system would make a difference. It's not a gravity feed situation.

There was a TSB on the 2000 TL's that addressed the brake pulsing. Acuras cure was to shave the rotors. I never bough into the theory that making them thinner would solve the problem. It's intrinsic to the 2000 TL's (and a couple of other years I think). I always felt it was caliper, piston related. I'll shop the stainless lines but may opt for rubber. I need to get EBC on the rear before I drop $$ on hoses. I love the car. Eibach pro springs, Tokico HP blues. Next step is Eibach pro sway bar and moog ends. Gotta be able to stop smoothly if your going to go fast. Thanks again for this valuable info. Looking forward to your reply.

 

Two piston calipers aren't going to solve the warping rotor issue It is a nice cheap upgrade and I could actually feel a difference. When you get new rotors and pads you need to follow the manufactures break in procedure. The rotors and pads I got came from the black market under brake motive. They will stand behind there stuff and I have over 10k miles on mine. I've always warped rotors on this car but this combination I haven't been able to and they have taken the most abuse. I've seen where a few people have warped ebc rotors but others have thousands of miles on them

 

my brakemotive rotors are starting to warp and pads are at <50% life. 15K miles on the setup (legend calipers, brakemotive rotors/pads, SS brake lines). they have taken quite a lot of abuse though. pretty satisfied with the performance, just wish they would've lasted longer so i could get rid of the car without having to replace the rotors and pads.

 

I followed the bed in procedure. The TL sits in the driveway unless we are pleasure cruising for the most part. There shouldn't be enough miles or abuse on the EBC rotors to warp. It's either the calipers, the brake lines or both. I've heard mostly good things about EBC. The pads are hard to beat. I may go to a different rotor when these are toast. I'll look a brake motive. The problem with my TL is not hard braking. It's tentative, slowing down from 50 plus but not standing on the brakes where the pulsing is noticeable, not only to me but passengers. 60 plus to zero is no problem and way shorter with EBC over stock. Thanks for the reply.
I'm guessing from your reply that my EBC rotors will work with the Legend calipers

 

As long as they are tl Rotors yes. The only thing you use from the legend is the actual caliper itself. You use tl rotors, pads, mounting brackets, ad everything else

 

Are these the legend calipers? http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...words=FRC10627

 

Yep

 

Awesome price!

 

Also, I've read I need to just swap sides, but other than that, what else?

 

That's it. Just install em. Everything else stays the same.

 

You may need to reuse the sliding bolts. Check out Skirmich's thread:

 

Also all you are using are the calipers themselves. You use the mounting bracket, rotors, and Pads for the 2g tl. The reason why you have to swap calipers to the opposite side is because the legends ran them on the back of strut and we run them on the front.

 

Consider swapping to stainless steel brake lines for an even more improved pedal feel.

 

Should I even spend the extra $100 on the legend calipers? I got new rotors, pads, fluid and stainless lines.

 

Yes some people may say there is no difference between the stock and te legend calipers. I had to swap back to my regular calipers a few weeks after I put them in and I could tell a difference. It has more feel and it felt like it stopped better with the legend calipers.

 

Amazon.com

Best price (at least when I bought a pair) and no core.

 

There's a couple of other places you just have to be patient and look. I got mine for 80$

 

+1 amazon. Mine were 49 bucks each. No core deposit/return and had all bolts plus the bracket (which you don't use)

 

When I got mine from davesdiscountauto.com it was 80$ including shipping and core charge. I've got about 20000 miles on mine and I'm glad I did it. I do wish i would have done stainless steel brake lines at te same time though

 

Thanks guys. I ordered up. Can I sell the cores?

 

probably but who is going to want to pay for them when you can get remanufactured legend calipers for 40-50 dollars. Not to mention how many miles will be on the ones your taking off.

 

Thanks. Calipers have 73,000 miles on them.

 

If you sell them I would expect maybe 30-40$ tops.

 

Thanks! Where do you think I can sell? Black market?

 

Yes and or Craigslist

 

Can't hurt to try. Maybe clean them up a bit with a wire brush to make them look nicer.

 

Hey guys. Got the calipers today. They look great. Can I paint the calipers with out the brackets?

Also, I have some questions: I got the Russell stainless lines but I think I read that I have to use some parts from the rubber lines- can anyone shed light on this?

Which legend caliper goes on what side? Example: # ending 27 goes on drivers side or 28?

 

There should be an R and a L stamped on them somewhere. The one stamped L goes on the right side. The one stamped R goes on the left side. You can paint them just tape off the piston area and I taped off the bleeders and where the line goes in.

 

Finally got my brakes done today. Here is what I got done

Legend calipers
Front/rear rotors and pads
SS lines
Brake fluid

For those with a similar setup, how is your brake pedal feel? How much fluid did they use?

My pedal feels a bit soft - will it stiffen up?
I have about 3/4 left of the brake fluid I purchased. Should they have used more to flush?

I did the break-in procedure right after picking up the car.

 

The pedal should be somewhat stiff,mine is not soft. If you got 1 quart and they only used 1/4 of it they didn't re bleed the system trapping air inside the lines and/or caliper. Check brake fluid level while you are at it.

 

Soft or Cushy Pedal is AIR in the System... Need to Bleed it Properly.

 

Got my calipers through Rockauto, I got one yesterday (fine) and got the second one today, fucking part was a single piston caliper. I'm sending it back tomorrow and they're going to get me the right one.

 

I hate when that happens what pads and rotors are you going to run and are you going to run stainless steel lines. I didn't run stainless steel lines but wish I would have, they are only like 100$

 

correct bleed order is driver front then clockwise around car
LF RF RR LR
shop may not have done right as its very odd
with new lines and 2 new calipers, a full flush to refill takes approx 1.5 qts DOT4 fluid

all clear clean fluid at each caliper is the goal
some will get the first bit of clean and call it done, but much old fluid remains in the caliper
old fluid contains moisture and causes weak pedal!!
follow pad and rotor instructions on bedding- action for effort at pedal will get stronger
but with SS lines it should always feel firm
if you quick pump twice on the brake pedal does it get firmer?

doh! I JUST REMEMBERED!!!!!!!!!!
when a line has been open on the TL- as in new lines and calipers,,
you MUST do 2 ABS active stops from 45mph to stop
get back up to 45 and repeat full ABS active- swerve wheel on gravel, or wet
pedal must PULSE wildly under your foot

air gets into a hidden ABS place when line removed- only way to get it is the above- right from acura tech book!
use of abs= if 2nd effort was better firmer pedal there was air
rebleed entire system and air will come out at least one line
then it will stop right
NOTE you dont want abs use with brand new brakes- its really hard on them

 

I have a feeling I got this caliper from a ziner, I mean, the box was the correct part #, but the correct part wasn't in the box.

Pads and rotors are going to be the same. I put on Brakemotive's pads and rotors not more than a year ago (<4000 miles anyway) so I"m going to reuse them.

The reason I'm doing this is I'm getting my 04 TL wheels powdercoated, I wanted to have some better stopping power but also have freshly painted calipers, so I figured I'd do it all at once.

Yeah I grabbed some XLR8 SS lines, I'll report how they do.

 

Painting them is a good idea otherwise they will rust up really quick. I might order a set of those stainless steel brake lines after I see how they work for you.

 

Im running something a little similar!

 

Oh You have a Lug nut lost somewhere dude..


Joke Nice 4-Pot!