Molding around rear doors?
#1
Molding around rear doors?
I have 99 TL, the molding on the exterior side of the rear doors are coming off, have tried everything to glue it and it doesn't stay on. Have tried 3M double sided tape, JB weld, gorilla glue. Any suggestions??
and the transmission shifter plate how do you change it out and where can you get one??
Thanks
and the transmission shifter plate how do you change it out and where can you get one??
Thanks
#2
Instructor
1.Pop off the frame around the shifter plate
2.twist shift knob off
3. Now you can pull she shifter plate out
I painted my shifter plate and I'm going to buy a new shifter knob but til then i painted it. I clear coated both the knob paint has lasted a week now with no problems.
It looks good in person but in the pic I think it looks took black and the dash looks grayish but its black also. I think u can buy that molding at a auto parts store.
2.twist shift knob off
3. Now you can pull she shifter plate out
I painted my shifter plate and I'm going to buy a new shifter knob but til then i painted it. I clear coated both the knob paint has lasted a week now with no problems.
It looks good in person but in the pic I think it looks took black and the dash looks grayish but its black also. I think u can buy that molding at a auto parts store.
#3
Instructor
The knob is ugly but better then that worn out wooden knob.
Any suggestions on a knob I see a lot with the type s knob. Is that knob stock just wondering? I would't buy unless I had a type s I would feel like a poser lol. Like as if I put type s on my 99 tl-p
Any suggestions on a knob I see a lot with the type s knob. Is that knob stock just wondering? I would't buy unless I had a type s I would feel like a poser lol. Like as if I put type s on my 99 tl-p
#5
Instructor
Some times you have to scuff the surface and clean it real good and that does the trick. Get some sand paper any grit or a scuff pad. scuff or sand the area you need the molding to stick on then clean it with some soap and water. Let it dry good then try the red 3m double sided tape that says super strength
Or something like that its a lot stronger. Good luck hope this helps.
Or something like that its a lot stronger. Good luck hope this helps.
#6
Senior Moderator
B pillar pieces #11/14
Last edited by fsttyms1; 11-08-2012 at 08:32 AM.
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#8
MechEng
iTrader: (9)
use a flathead screwdriver and pry them off. if you break the clips, go to clipsandfasteners.com. all replacement clips are relatively cheap there.
OP, i suggest you do the same. glue does not work.
OP, i suggest you do the same. glue does not work.
#9
Instructor
Is it the rubber weather molding cause you can buy that at an auto parts store or do what i said. Best thing would be to replace. If its the pillars i would just follow the op on how to remove and replace clips.
#10
My bad, I think I described the wrong part. The part I need to replace is actually the gloss black trim around the window. I'm guessing this is actually part of the door and doesn't come off. Would I be correct? Easy to repaint?
#11
Instructor
I think you're describing the black vinyl trim.
I'm currently in the process of slowly replacing mine because it's cracking and peeling. I removed all the weather stripping and used a torch to get it hot enough to peel away. I'd recommend a heat gun because I did get the paint too hot in one spot and bubbled it off. Not a big deal because I am re-applying new vinyl anyway.
It's possible to get it warm enough to get the vinyl off but not the adhesive. That adhesive is practically bulletproof, and rightly so. I failed to get it off in some spots with the heat, figuring I could try alcohol or other solvents. I tried the rubbing alcohol and it just laughed at me. I also tried an acid cleaner I bought at a detail supply store and it didn't budge. Even tried engine degreaser with no luck. I'll have to come back at it with some heat another time.
When working on the rear doors, you'll eventually have to get the smaller window glass out before applying heat for obvious reasons. Which means you'll have to have most of the door disassembled to do it.
I bought a sheet of gloss black 3M 1080 Scotchprint to replace the vinyl. I hope to get pictures of the process, whenever I find the time.
I'm currently in the process of slowly replacing mine because it's cracking and peeling. I removed all the weather stripping and used a torch to get it hot enough to peel away. I'd recommend a heat gun because I did get the paint too hot in one spot and bubbled it off. Not a big deal because I am re-applying new vinyl anyway.
It's possible to get it warm enough to get the vinyl off but not the adhesive. That adhesive is practically bulletproof, and rightly so. I failed to get it off in some spots with the heat, figuring I could try alcohol or other solvents. I tried the rubbing alcohol and it just laughed at me. I also tried an acid cleaner I bought at a detail supply store and it didn't budge. Even tried engine degreaser with no luck. I'll have to come back at it with some heat another time.
When working on the rear doors, you'll eventually have to get the smaller window glass out before applying heat for obvious reasons. Which means you'll have to have most of the door disassembled to do it.
I bought a sheet of gloss black 3M 1080 Scotchprint to replace the vinyl. I hope to get pictures of the process, whenever I find the time.
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