J32a2FTW!

I cant find any decent prices on these... ANyone have some solid links with both front rotors and some decent (EBC or w/e) pads?


Thanks in advance!

Blazin_TL

iTrader: (1)

PM Excelerate, he is a vendor he will hook you up

J32a2FTW!

Good enough.. Thanks!

AcuraBuddy

Worst comes to worst you can always try ebay but then again those prices that Excelerate has seem fine to me and who knows I might get me a set soon.

fsttyms1

Well for starters you cant get Slotted Brembo Blanks. Blanks mean just that. They are standard rotors, no slots, no dimples, no holes. PM Excelerate for Rotora and EBC

nerosurge

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/perf...s/Brake_Rotors

This site has some decent upgrades for our cars

Studio

Drilled and/or slotted = looks

Blanks = performance

Get the brembo blanks if you want awesome brakes. If you want to look cool, get some drilled/slotted rotors and spend more money for less quality.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I thought drilled and slotted rotors were better? Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought that the slots help get the gas out better to allow the brakes to stay cooler for better performance.


Brembo might be better than Rotora, but if you are comparing Rotora drilled and slotted to Rotora blanks wouldn't the drilled and slotted be better?

fsttyms1

Slotted rotors do work better than blanks if your being very aggressive where the slots need to clean the pads and degas. Under normal driving there will be no benifit

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

So, if I am looking to upgrade, and I just do normal city driving, should I get drilled and slotted or just get some blanks? About what price difference am I looking at for the two? I am already PMed Excelerate about some prices and am waiting to hear back from him.

Thanks, Kris.

Studio

If your using the brake pads off your 50's sled I would get slotted and/or drilled. Get the slotted if you like to "feel" and "hear" the slots while breaking ./insert sarcasm.\ of course your giving up precious surface area.

Again if you want less breaking area, and cracked rotors, that absolutly do not cool or help in brake fad, make sure you get those suckers drilled.

Sorry to be so bitter. I just hate how popular slotted/dimpled/drilled/etc rotors are, and how they are always promoted to be so much better then blanks.

fsttyms1

If your doing just normal driving any blank will worl Most go with the Rotora slotted just because of their quality

Studio

Or any race application, blanks are the way to go. Unless you have SUPER cheap pads that produce a lot of heat, or have 13+ inch rotors like a porsche then slotted might be alright.

do you know how much the rotoras are for our TL's of the top of your head? Do they also offer blanks?

fsttyms1

Ive used just about every pad made. I also Auto x and scca event race. I know what rotors and pads do. You arent giving up "precious" braking area. Cracking doesnt typically happen to good rotors till they get old. My last set went 80k before they had any signs of hairline cracks and they saw more track time then most drive in a year.
Slotted for aggressive driving/track driving are better than blanks. For normal driving yes there not going to help.

Oh and mine are whisper quiet

Also its Braking, not Breaking. :

fsttyms1

Im not sure if they offer blanks or not, but they do have just slotted, slotted drilled, and i think they have dimpled?? PM Excelerate. He can tell you

Studio

heh, breaking. Its doesn’t help your argument when you cant spell the subject!

I used to autox my 300lbs cavy for 3 years. I went through a few rotors you could say. From my experience and talking to fellow engineers/car enthusiasts blanks are the best. Now a porsche with a 13" rotor would be incredibly heavy, and the circumference makes the disc spin faster in relation to the wheel allowing them to sacrifice rotor surface.

However, Im still no brake engineer. You can find a couple threads on this subject by googling.

fsttyms1

I know for a fact with the same pad slotted vs blank my tl can go about 5 laps longer at Road America with the slotted rotors before i loose all braking TO me that says that the slotted rotor is deglazing the pad and degassing it far better than the blank

Studio

What pads are you using and what heat range?

How is your TL in ax? thats a lot of car to toss around.

Studio

Excelerate, if you see this

Looking to get a price on front and rear brembo blanks....

Tried to PM but.... "Studio, you do not have permission to access this page. "

Thanks!

fsttyms1

Ive tired most all pads. I typically stick with green stuff. They are easier on the rotors than the reds and blacks. I dont care for axxis. I personally think they suck. My oem pads lasted longer at RA than the axxis did. The tl isnt bad at all. They tend to set up slightly larger tracks around here and it fairs very well. This year should be 10x better with the 6 speed and LSD in it. Plus im going to finally lower it this season too.

fsttyms1

Reply to like 14 more threads. Once you get to 30 posts you can PM and retrieve them

Studio

I agree with axxis, never again... No matter what pads (however non were cheap ones) they would NEVER gas out. Iv seen some brembo blanks go though driving that were sure to warp ANY rotor, but they never did.

Should be a new car out there with that swap and lsd. Is the lsd aftermarket or oem from another model?

Your on stock suspension also?

Studio

Got it, thanks!

fsttyms1

Yes, the axxis would never gas out and after 1 hot lap they were fading really bad. Not to mention the brake dust after 1 day there my rims were blacker than my tires
yea i was on stock suspension. I couldnt lower it due to me needing all the ground clearance possible for work. The LSD s stock. It cam in the CL-S 6 speed trans. The LSD makes a HUGE difference in the way it drives thru and out of corners

Studio

Oh ya, you should be able to plant much more power now coming out. Your car was a non type s right? I have a type S, the suspension is tight for a lux sedan, but it still likes to dance when turning kinda quick.

I started off with slotted and drilled, then went slotted which helped overall compared to the slotted/drilled, then I started running blanks, all had the same fade, but I was not warping anymore and to me felt more braking power.

Ya, I think I remember them dusting really bad too. I wouldnt mind if they freakin worked good. Oh well..

Im jealous of the 6speed swap.

AcuraBuddy

you need a few more posts just keep on posting till 30.

fsttyms1

Yea its a Non Type-s Type-S

L3wD

under hard braking pads have the tendency to glaze over causing it not to grip the rotor as good as it could.... i havent autox yet but i will be hopefully this summer in my integra... however i do know that slotted rotors are the best for performance, for cooling, and deglazing the pads..... the drilled rotors are better for cooling than blanks.... and brembo blanks are wayyyyy better than stock brakes... my cousin used to overheat his brakes on his 90 300ZXTT alot... after replacing it with drilled brembos (not sure if they are factory drilled or drilled blanks) he said the braking was 100% better and much less fade.. i dont think he ever lost his brakes after.

Studio

Let me dig around the puter, I have torqe and temp sheets comparing drilled vs undrilled. There was 100% no change in temp, however torqe ratings dropped on the drilled.

I used sloted and blanks, I swear by blanks; however, others swear by slotted. I think I would run slotted if the rotor only had half as many. For some crazy reason I love my braking surface :troutslap

I had to throw the smillie in, been a long time since i have seen a good new on!

fsttyms1

I dont know why you think your loosing braking area, or why you think it will effect it? If it can degas/deglaze or cool due to the 2 it will help you brake better. Why do all High performance rotors come drilled or slotted? Ferrari, porsche, cz06, most race rotors, BBKs. If a blank were better none of them would run drilled or slotted

Studio

CART, IRL, NASCAR, ALMS, WRC, F3000, TransAm, Formula Atlantic, etc. They dont use them.

Why does ferrari or porsche? They need to loss weigh and make them look good. They can do it when your at 12-15" tall. However these tall pretty looking rotors are heavy, and we all know about rotating mass.

Studio

With your stock sus, and before the swap, can you name some of the cars you were runing better times?

When I got the cavy brand new, I tired to autox it. It was a a sad.... sad.... sight. Then I got koni reds, and eibach coilovers.

Studio

double post..... Sorry. I guess I need to get my posts up anyways, eh?

fsttyms1

Aot of them wont allow that type of rotor. They do infact work.

fsttyms1

You mean as far as cars i was beating? It really comes down to drivers.
Maximas, sti (with teh right driver in them they would have beat me as some did) talons,different VWs, grand prix, integras. I spent more time at RA, Gingerman, and Blackhawk (road course racing which i prefer being able to do many laps and faster speeds) There i had lots of fun with a few maximas (one killed me, a friend thats really set up for racing and SCed) 328s and 330s the later were alot harder to beat, that was a drivers race)

Studio

I will stick with my blanks and $$, like I said in my first post, IMO.

However with the driving I do now I no longer need to worry about these issues

The TL is my daily/only car right now, I would be WAY too nervous to take it to an autox track. I need to save my pennies and hunt for a FC

Studio

For sure AutoX is a huge driver race, but come on a lux sedan on stock suspension going up to awd turbo, 330's, etc. Puts a smile on my face!

I test drove a 01 330i before buying the TL. Drag wise, the TL would tear it up. The 330i was a man too!

01tl4tl

Studio

Auto-x racing is a fairly safe way to learn car control. It is all done at low speeds- mostly under 35mph, with lots of back and forth on the gas off the gas on the brakes action in a short, pylon controlled course

You are in a parking lot, with one car at at time going thru the course.

So much safer than on the street

Studio

I knoe its safe, I did it for three years, like I Mentioned earlier. Very rough on the car though.

Studio

Well their are a lot of variables, rotor height, pad size, slot width, and a big one is slot spacing. I will dig up the article but they tested a 11.8 rotor with slots that overlapped while under pad area and ones that didnt. Where the drilled out area is for the slot the pad is not in contact to the disc, so your losing braking area. When you have slots that overlapp under the pad (two slots are in contact with the pad or lack there of at the same time) your losing even more. When they measured the amount of loss of pad to rotor contact was 14%. I till try googling it later tonight if I cant find it on my computer.


Edit. Im going to learn how to spell check before making two posts in a row on this board!