Keyless remote (keyfob)
01-08-2010, 10:05 PM
#1
Racer
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Keyless remote (keyfob)
i have a 1999 acura tl and when i bought the car it just came with the key rather than a key and keyfob.
i've heard to just purchase one off ebay, but what kind should i buy for my year (1999)?
i've heard to just purchase one off ebay, but what kind should i buy for my year (1999)?
01-08-2010, 10:13 PM
#2
i think most people say that it has to have the same FCC # on the back in order for it to work (somebody else will have to tell you that number, mine is an 03 with memory seats [each remote is linked to a memory seat position], so proably a completely different number)(which kinda limits your choices to the factory remotes)
01-09-2010, 11:10 AM
#7
go ask the dealer which fob you need
there are a few for gen2 as things changed
Chances are you need version A or 1 as my guess for a 99
there are a few for gen2 as things changed
Chances are you need version A or 1 as my guess for a 99
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01-09-2010, 08:57 PM
#8
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well do i go by what jterrorc just told me because i see a lot of those keyfobs on ebay and selling at $25, and $5 shipped. so now i know the fcc id, should i go and purchase or definitely go to the dealer?
im sure all models came with keyless entry including my tl.
im sure all models came with keyless entry including my tl.
01-09-2010, 09:33 PM
#11
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well i'm about to purchase the keyfob off ebay. i'm sure there is a transmitter and my model came with a keyfob but the leasing company or the previous owner lost it. question, where is the transmitter in the car, do i just program it at the drivers seat or point the keyfob in a particular direction?
01-09-2010, 09:40 PM
#12
they can actually be lost quite easily, think about how many times people lose their keys
and then somepeople just get a replacement key without the keyfob, because they are too cheap for a new fob
from the drivers seat and you have to actuate the locks, turn the key on and have the door open and such, so along that line following a procedure; give me a sec to look it up
and then somepeople just get a replacement key without the keyfob, because they are too cheap for a new fob
from the drivers seat and you have to actuate the locks, turn the key on and have the door open and such, so along that line following a procedure; give me a sec to look it up
01-09-2010, 09:45 PM
#13
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lol cool. I mean the keyfob is $65 out the pocket by the link you provided, so what's the big deal?
people are just lazy and cheap nowadays. i bet the leasing company said "oh well, a consumer lost it, good up for sell" lol
i will buy one now off ebay $25, shipped in good condition.
people are just lazy and cheap nowadays. i bet the leasing company said "oh well, a consumer lost it, good up for sell" lol
i will buy one now off ebay $25, shipped in good condition.
01-09-2010, 09:45 PM
#14
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES: ^This system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter will be erased.
^Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode.
1.Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2.Within 4 seconds, press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Make sure the transmitter is aimed at the receiver in the passenger 5 multiplex control unit.
3.Within 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4.Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times. Use the same transmitter used in step 2.
5.Within 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6.Within 4 seconds, press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button again.
7.Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on each transmitter you want to program. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you push each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code.
8.Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
also it says here that the remote is only for the 99's
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...1=&inputstate=
NOTES: ^This system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter will be erased.
^Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode.
1.Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2.Within 4 seconds, press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Make sure the transmitter is aimed at the receiver in the passenger 5 multiplex control unit.
3.Within 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
4.Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times. Use the same transmitter used in step 2.
5.Within 4 seconds, turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6.Within 4 seconds, press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button again.
7.Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on each transmitter you want to program. Make sure the power door locks cycle after you push each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code.
8.Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
also it says here that the remote is only for the 99's
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...1=&inputstate=
01-09-2010, 10:03 PM
#15
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thanks for the instructions, dude. i will bookmark this thread. I just purchased a keyfob off ebay. I made sure it was fcc: kobutah2t and it should be here within a few days.
1999, 2000, 2001 all are the same models. Just they had a newer engine but the body style was the same until 02 and 03 when they did the revision to the face of the car and changed the tail lights to clear.
1999, 2000, 2001 all are the same models. Just they had a newer engine but the body style was the same until 02 and 03 when they did the revision to the face of the car and changed the tail lights to clear.
(let alone tranny wise)
01-09-2010, 10:13 PM
#17
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yeah i left out the tranny, those outrageous, horrendous 5 speed trannys!
Glad I own a 4 speed, after this car i want a silver 3rd generation tl! probably will try out a manual version too! those are awesome!
Glad I own a 4 speed, after this car i want a silver 3rd generation tl! probably will try out a manual version too! those are awesome!
01-09-2010, 10:20 PM
#18
just saying that the body may be the same, but underneth it can be completely different,
surprisingly my pos 5-speed has lasted 107k for me (with the previous owner putting 101K on it
and i work on one of those at work
(but is non-navi 
)
one time i drove it, whoopsies i did not mean for the traction light to come on, on dry pavement
biggest complaint i would have about it, is that the clutch is a little touchy, it is kinda like an on-off switch
surprisingly my pos 5-speed has lasted 107k for me (with the previous owner putting 101K on it
and i work on one of those at work
(but is non-navi )one time i drove it, whoopsies i did not mean for the traction light to come on, on dry pavement
biggest complaint i would have about it, is that the clutch is a little touchy, it is kinda like an on-off switch
01-09-2010, 10:38 PM
#19
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that's why its best to always look at the right parts numbers because stuff might be different under as you said. i will remember that.
and my 4 speed is still riding and i have 98k and still original.
i'm so jealous dude!!! you got to drive my favorite car ever. I want a 3rd gen bad dude! navi needs to be installed because it sets off the whole interior of the car. it matches well with the front console and the climate controls, its just slick all around.
clutch on and off switch...yuck! not a good feeling!! i thought it was smooth engaging!
you work at a private honda shop or something? did you do your own 105k service by the way?
and my 4 speed is still riding and i have 98k and still original.
i'm so jealous dude!!! you got to drive my favorite car ever. I want a 3rd gen bad dude! navi needs to be installed because it sets off the whole interior of the car. it matches well with the front console and the climate controls, its just slick all around.
clutch on and off switch...yuck! not a good feeling!! i thought it was smooth engaging!
you work at a private honda shop or something? did you do your own 105k service by the way?
01-09-2010, 10:52 PM
#20
they are definetly not like other honda clutches with smooth engagement, idk why
as said they are knida like an on-off switch, the engagement point is very small when compared to other hondas, you do kinda get use to it, cause i have gottin kinda use to it, when i pull it in
independent shop that specilizes in japenese cars (but the majority of our work is Subaru, with Toyota/Lexus right behind that)
105k, yeah i did it for the previous owner at 90k, so it was done a long time ago (i've worked on my car since it has had about 40k on it, with the shop i work at working on it since 7k, so i have ALL the maintence records on mine; so literally since it's first oil change 
)
as said they are knida like an on-off switch, the engagement point is very small when compared to other hondas, you do kinda get use to it, cause i have gottin kinda use to it, when i pull it in
independent shop that specilizes in japenese cars (but the majority of our work is Subaru, with Toyota/Lexus right behind that)
105k
, yeah i did it for the previous owner at 90k, so it was done a long time ago (i've worked on my car since it has had about 40k on it, with the shop i work at working on it since 7k, so i have ALL the maintence records on mine; so literally since it's first oil change )
01-09-2010, 11:11 PM
#21
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now that's where i want to work at. an independent shop that specializes in japanese cars. just because i like hondas/acuras, toyotas/lexus. working there and at the hospital (being a nurse) will be awesome
congrats on your 105k service. doing it on your own. i'm handing honda or acura the one grand and they can do it for me this time but next 105k interval its my turn to do it or it might not be lol because i might get that 3rd generation tl.
but maybe the 6spd clutch in the 3rd generation is something that has to grow onto you. You know just like you said, you were so use to the hondas clutches!
I personally like the honda clutches also. i drove a 5spd prelude and loved it! talk about engaging clutch feel
congrats on your 105k service. doing it on your own. i'm handing honda or acura the one grand and they can do it for me this time but next 105k interval its my turn to do it or it might not be lol because i might get that 3rd generation tl.
but maybe the 6spd clutch in the 3rd generation is something that has to grow onto you. You know just like you said, you were so use to the hondas clutches!
I personally like the honda clutches also. i drove a 5spd prelude and loved it! talk about engaging clutch feel
01-09-2010, 11:28 PM
#22
and we hardly will even touch european cars;only for a few select customers will we touch them
and it was on someone else's bill too
i think part of the reason is that it is a LUK clutch :shakehead that it is touchy
any vehicle that has a exedy/daiken clutch (which geneally make honda's other clutchs, with alot of the other japenese clutches also) geneally seem to have a nice clutch
i also like subaru's manual too, pretty smoth engagement (maybe not as much as other honda's), but what i really like about them is that they have a really low first gear, so you barely even/if at all have to rev them to get going, which more then makes up for the slightly rougher clutch, also i think any of honda's v6 clutches are made by LUK
and it was on someone else's bill too
i think part of the reason is that it is a LUK clutch :shakehead that it is touchy
any vehicle that has a exedy/daiken clutch (which geneally make honda's other clutchs, with alot of the other japenese clutches also) geneally seem to have a nice clutch
i also like subaru's manual too, pretty smoth engagement (maybe not as much as other honda's), but what i really like about them is that they have a really low first gear, so you barely even/if at all have to rev them to get going, which more then makes up for the slightly rougher clutch, also i think any of honda's v6 clutches are made by LUK
01-12-2010, 04:20 PM
#23
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and we hardly will even touch european cars;only for a few select customers will we touch them
and it was on someone else's bill too
i think part of the reason is that it is a LUK clutch :shakehead that it is touchy
any vehicle that has a exedy/daiken clutch (which geneally make honda's other clutchs, with alot of the other japenese clutches also) geneally seem to have a nice clutch
i also like subaru's manual too, pretty smoth engagement (maybe not as much as other honda's), but what i really like about them is that they have a really low first gear, so you barely even/if at all have to rev them to get going, which more then makes up for the slightly rougher clutch, also i think any of honda's v6 clutches are made by LUK
and it was on someone else's bill too
i think part of the reason is that it is a LUK clutch :shakehead that it is touchy
any vehicle that has a exedy/daiken clutch (which geneally make honda's other clutchs, with alot of the other japenese clutches also) geneally seem to have a nice clutch
i also like subaru's manual too, pretty smoth engagement (maybe not as much as other honda's), but what i really like about them is that they have a really low first gear, so you barely even/if at all have to rev them to get going, which more then makes up for the slightly rougher clutch, also i think any of honda's v6 clutches are made by LUK
fries, i think i might get a old integra from somewhere that has a manual tranny and work on it as a project. your motivating me to work on manual trannies now!
01-12-2010, 05:36 PM
#24
6 speed manual 2g TL 
with an Exedy/Daiken clutch
http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/Clutch_Specifications
with part # HCK1007,(i can't link directly to it sadly)
all v6 clutches should interchange (as far as i know) with the correct flywheel from that year/model of car
with an Exedy/Daiken clutch http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/Clutch_Specifications
with part # HCK1007,(i can't link directly to it sadly)
all v6 clutches should interchange (as far as i know) with the correct flywheel from that year/model of car
01-12-2010, 05:48 PM
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i think most people say that it has to have the same FCC # on the back in order for it to work (somebody else will have to tell you that number, mine is an 03 with memory seats [each remote is linked to a memory seat position], so proably a completely different number)(which kinda limits your choices to the factory remotes)
01-12-2010, 06:36 PM
#27
(can't read this section) ...........8501021819
(can't read this section) ...........G8D-444H-A
that is all the numbers off the back of it and how they look on it (and the (can't read this section) is because the section is worn away from the keyring swivaling around on it)(also don't mind the periods, they are just spacers)
also this is for memory seat position #1, i have the other remote too for Memory #2 also, but the soon to be wifey has it on her keyring, and she's not home right now
so i don't know if the FCC ID # is different or not
but if anything the logical way to renumber it would be to make the A at the end of the ID to a B instead
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-12-2010 at 06:39 PM.
01-13-2010, 01:16 AM
#28
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FCC:......................................E4EG8D-444H-A
(can't read this section) ...........8501021819
(can't read this section) ...........G8D-444H-A
that is all the numbers off the back of it and how they look on it (and the (can't read this section) is because the section is worn away from the keyring swivaling around on it)(also don't mind the periods, they are just spacers)
also this is for memory seat position #1, i have the other remote too for Memory #2 also, but the soon to be wifey has it on her keyring, and she's not home right now
so i don't know if the FCC ID # is different or not
but if anything the logical way to renumber it would be to make the A at the end of the ID to a B instead
(can't read this section) ...........8501021819
(can't read this section) ...........G8D-444H-A
that is all the numbers off the back of it and how they look on it (and the (can't read this section) is because the section is worn away from the keyring swivaling around on it)(also don't mind the periods, they are just spacers)
also this is for memory seat position #1, i have the other remote too for Memory #2 also, but the soon to be wifey has it on her keyring, and she's not home right now
so i don't know if the FCC ID # is different or not
but if anything the logical way to renumber it would be to make the A at the end of the ID to a B instead
01-16-2010, 02:29 PM
#29
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I got the keyfob and it works like a charm i followed the details fries presented in his above post and the car is responding to the keyfob.
it took me 5 minutes to program. The beep is pretty weak on the 1999 model
it sounds like a kid toy. but glad the lights actually flash and the panic button is hilarious and loud!
only thing is it seems to lag kinda. like i can hear the power door actuators click a second after i press the button.
maybe its normal and i'm just being picky
it took me 5 minutes to program. The beep is pretty weak on the 1999 model
it sounds like a kid toy. but glad the lights actually flash and the panic button is hilarious and loud!only thing is it seems to lag kinda. like i can hear the power door actuators click a second after i press the button.
maybe its normal and i'm just being picky
01-16-2010, 04:08 PM
#30
the beep ; it is a seperate speaker (at least on the 03s) that is sitting behind the passenger side fender right infront of the door, so no it is not the horn beeping; wish we could actually program it on the first click , but i just push it twice though (kinda from habit) to make sure to hear that beep, otherwise i dont think it is locked 
remember for that lag, the radio waves from the remote do have to travel through the air and to the car to be "processed", and then every thing actually has to respond to the module controls, so YES YOU ARE BEING PICKY ABOUT the LAG
, personally i have never noticed it
; it is a seperate speaker (at least on the 03s) that is sitting behind the passenger side fender right infront of the door, so no it is not the horn beeping; wish we could actually program it on the first click , but i just push it twice though (kinda from habit) to make sure to hear that beep, otherwise i dont think it is locked remember for that lag, the radio waves from the remote do have to travel through the air and to the car to be "processed", and then every thing actually has to respond to the module controls, so YES YOU ARE BEING PICKY ABOUT the LAG
, personally i have never noticed it
01-16-2010, 10:49 PM
#31
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UPDATE: i purchase the keyfob from ebay ($28) on sunday and it shipped ($5) yesterday so it should be here tomorrow or thursday. it's coming from california!
fries, i think i might get a old integra from somewhere that has a manual tranny and work on it as a project. your motivating me to work on manual trannies now!
fries, i think i might get a old integra from somewhere that has a manual tranny and work on it as a project. your motivating me to work on manual trannies now!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-...item5638d166b7
01-17-2010, 08:26 AM
#32
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@dream54ing: well all I did was type in "1999 acura tl keyless remote" at ebay and I got the search results. Plus mines has all 4 buttons (panic, trunk, unlock & lock) and it has the Acura logo on it. It was $28 because it was in excellent condition also.
@fries: dude I just get really paranoid when it comes to the car. Like my ears hear things and I be thinking something is wrong but it turns out everything is normal
But I only heard the clicking when I was programming the keyfob. When I was inside the car I could hear the door lock actuators working. So its normal
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@fries: dude I just get really paranoid when it comes to the car. Like my ears hear things and I be thinking something is wrong but it turns out everything is normal
But I only heard the clicking when I was programming the keyfob. When I was inside the car I could hear the door lock actuators working. So its normal
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01-17-2010, 11:00 AM
#33
yeah it sucks noticing every little noise and vibration, makes you worry too much, but nice in that you can tell something is wrong before it gets serious
like i think one of my motor mounts is going out, and it is causeing something to rattle inside the driver's door (like one of the lock rods), plus is a slight increase in the vibration in the car, and when going like 25, the car baukes (sp?) ever so slightly but noticeable (basically the engine is just off idle)
like i think one of my motor mounts is going out, and it is causeing something to rattle inside the driver's door (like one of the lock rods), plus is a slight increase in the vibration in the car, and when going like 25, the car baukes (sp?) ever so slightly but noticeable (basically the engine is just off idle)
01-17-2010, 12:15 PM
#34
I bought my remote from eBay I payed like $40.00 bucks I wish I waited before jumping the buy before 2 weeks later they had a bunch listed for like $20.00 bucks lmfao. It worked like a charm, kind of a pain in the ass to get it to work with the car, a lot of key turning required lmfao. It should work if you buy it off eBay, if not you can always return it for full price.
01-17-2010, 12:28 PM
#35
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Wow just by your description of a "almost failed motor mount". I'm having the same problem. Well I think all 4 mounts are gone. I know we have a side, front, rear, and transmission. I believe all are shot for my TL. Besides I can feel when the tranny shifts sometimes. Even when I shift in reverse. So that is the trans mount.
I know the front and rear are vacuum controlled and I can hear a vacuum leak a little.
I tested the press foot on gas and brake and watch to see if the engine rises and it does.
Question for mounts: when I change them, do I change them all at once or can I do one at a time.
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I know the front and rear are vacuum controlled and I can hear a vacuum leak a little.
I tested the press foot on gas and brake and watch to see if the engine rises and it does.
Question for mounts: when I change them, do I change them all at once or can I do one at a time.
Sent via BlackBerry
01-17-2010, 12:44 PM
#36
Wow just by your description of a "almost failed motor mount". I'm having the same problem. Well I think all 4 mounts are gone. I know we have a side, front, rear, and transmission. I believe all are shot for my TL. Besides I can feel when the tranny shifts sometimes. Even when I shift in reverse. So that is the trans mount.
I know the front and rear are vacuum controlled and I can hear a vacuum leak a little.
I tested the press foot on gas and brake and watch to see if the engine rises and it does.
Question for mounts: when I change them, do I change them all at once or can I do one at a time.
Sent via BlackBerry
I know the front and rear are vacuum controlled and I can hear a vacuum leak a little.
I tested the press foot on gas and brake and watch to see if the engine rises and it does.
Question for mounts: when I change them, do I change them all at once or can I do one at a time.
Sent via BlackBerry
and my mount is not almost failed, it's just starting to fail
also it is 5 mounts, tranny has two of them
, also normally all the mounts do not all just fail at once, just that a failed mount can cause the other mounts to fail sooner though, so multiple failed mounts are possible
^as said all the failed ones need to be replaced at the same time, or the still good ones might be taken out
also your harsh shifting tranny might be the tranny itself and not the mounts, biggest thing is can you feel vibrations while it is still in a gear and holding the gear (i also know when cruiseing along with the engine at like 1500-2000, it feels funny/sounds funny [kinda hard to describe accuratelly] proably from the mount starting to go bad
also for you i would check out that vacuum leak first before condemning your mounts, cause that vacuum line to the mounts is to soften them up especially with the motor at idle
01-17-2010, 01:04 PM
#37
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Well the harsh shifting only occurs when engine is cold. And Acura states that its completely normal because the engine is warming up.
Now slipping is a different story. Is slipping when the engine rises a few more rpm's and then slams into gear or is it something else?
Wow so there are 5 mounts and I know the front and side mounts are easy to diy but are the others are too? Or you need a shop to do those?
And I don't have a leak I was throwing out a "what if". I forgot to add that in my post.
And that's going to suck to do all the mounts in one sitting! I do feel a slight vibration at idle so I know my side mount is shot? Because the rear and front only work when engine is in high rpms.
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Now slipping is a different story. Is slipping when the engine rises a few more rpm's and then slams into gear or is it something else?
Wow so there are 5 mounts and I know the front and side mounts are easy to diy but are the others are too? Or you need a shop to do those?
And I don't have a leak I was throwing out a "what if". I forgot to add that in my post.
And that's going to suck to do all the mounts in one sitting! I do feel a slight vibration at idle so I know my side mount is shot? Because the rear and front only work when engine is in high rpms.
Sent via BlackBerry
01-17-2010, 01:32 PM
#38
Well the harsh shifting only occurs when engine is cold. And Acura states that its completely normal because the engine is warming up.
Now slipping is a different story. Is slipping when the engine rises a few more rpm's and then slams into gear or is it something else?
Wow so there are 5 mounts and I know the front and side mounts are easy to diy but are the others are too? Or you need a shop to do those?
And I don't have a leak I was throwing out a "what if". I forgot to add that in my post.
And that's going to suck to do all the mounts in one sitting! I do feel a slight vibration at idle so I know my side mount is shot? Because the rear and front only work when engine is in high rpms.
Sent via BlackBerry
Now slipping is a different story. Is slipping when the engine rises a few more rpm's and then slams into gear or is it something else?
Wow so there are 5 mounts and I know the front and side mounts are easy to diy but are the others are too? Or you need a shop to do those?
And I don't have a leak I was throwing out a "what if". I forgot to add that in my post.
And that's going to suck to do all the mounts in one sitting! I do feel a slight vibration at idle so I know my side mount is shot? Because the rear and front only work when engine is in high rpms.
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slipping can be what you describe, but that is more of what i would call flaring, slipping would be once the gear is fulling engaged and the rpms rise with out accelerating, and yes ethier way not good
a shop to do the 5 mounts??? NO, but it makes doing that back one (against the firewall) a whole lot easier, but it is still duoable at home
and the tranny mounts are actually quite easy, proably about the same as the front mount if not easier
about the vacuum leak; SURE......
all the mounts in one sitting, not neccesary but preferred (if you go like a day or two in between it will be fine, just not months or weeks), also only the bads mounts are neccessary to do, so if all are bad
then yes they would all need to done thenand all the mounts support the motor at all times, just that the side ones get softer at light loads and idle (plus they are more for preventing the rotation of the motor under load, but they still do support some of the weight of the motor at all times)(that is more of the job of the front and tranny ones to support the weight of the motor, but they do also help prevent the rotation of the motor, just not as much as the side ones)
and you're slight vibration could easiliy be caused by one of the side mounts not going soft enough from say a vacuum leak (so not getting full vacuum, and full softness)(and both mounts could not be getting full softness/vacuum ethier cause they do share a commen vacuum line till it tees off to each one, and that line is not all that big ethier)
01-17-2010, 03:10 PM
#39
Racer
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fluid is still a little too thick from still being cold (think oil, but not as extreme), causeing the harsher shifting, try changeing the fluid again (proably still dirty some)
slipping can be what you describe, but that is more of what i would call flaring, slipping would be once the gear is fulling engaged and the rpms rise with out accelerating, and yes ethier way not good
a shop to do the 5 mounts??? NO, but it makes doing that back one (against the firewall) a whole lot easier, but it is still duoable at home
and the tranny mounts are actually quite easy, proably about the same as the front mount if not easier
about the vacuum leak; SURE......
all the mounts in one sitting, not neccesary but preferred (if you go like a day or two in between it will be fine, just not months or weeks), also only the bads mounts are neccessary to do, so if all are bad then yes they would all need to done then
and all the mounts support the motor at all times, just that the side ones get softer at light loads and idle (plus they are more for preventing the rotation of the motor under load, but they still do support some of the weight of the motor at all times)(that is more of the job of the front and tranny ones to support the weight of the motor, but they do also help prevent the rotation of the motor, just not as much as the side ones)
and you're slight vibration could easiliy be caused by one of the side mounts not going soft enough from say a vacuum leak (so not getting full vacuum, and full softness)(and both mounts could not be getting full softness/vacuum ethier cause they do share a commen vacuum line till it tees off to each one, and that line is not all that big ethier)
slipping can be what you describe, but that is more of what i would call flaring, slipping would be once the gear is fulling engaged and the rpms rise with out accelerating, and yes ethier way not good
a shop to do the 5 mounts??? NO, but it makes doing that back one (against the firewall) a whole lot easier, but it is still duoable at home
and the tranny mounts are actually quite easy, proably about the same as the front mount if not easier
about the vacuum leak; SURE......
all the mounts in one sitting, not neccesary but preferred (if you go like a day or two in between it will be fine, just not months or weeks), also only the bads mounts are neccessary to do, so if all are bad
then yes they would all need to done thenand all the mounts support the motor at all times, just that the side ones get softer at light loads and idle (plus they are more for preventing the rotation of the motor under load, but they still do support some of the weight of the motor at all times)(that is more of the job of the front and tranny ones to support the weight of the motor, but they do also help prevent the rotation of the motor, just not as much as the side ones)
and you're slight vibration could easiliy be caused by one of the side mounts not going soft enough from say a vacuum leak (so not getting full vacuum, and full softness)(and both mounts could not be getting full softness/vacuum ethier cause they do share a commen vacuum line till it tees off to each one, and that line is not all that big ethier)
friesm2000 said "...SURE...": look mister, i was not saying mines was leaking sooooo
...well it might be...lol considering i do feel vibration at idle and.....hold on....question-------->--->basically am i suppose to feel shifts or vibrations? no, if you do then your mounts are done.
so that solves my mount problem. all of the mounts need to be replaced. im at 99k and its about time for them to be swapped out for new ones. i went this long on these old ones.
the tranny fluid i did back at 94k but i will do it again to keep fresh fluid in the car. i checked it also the car is pinkish red and it doesn't smell burnt, it smells exactly like tranny fluid. (
i still have that tranny fluid smell in my nose)the shifting on my car is good. like i said when its cold thats when its harsh and it tends to stay in 1st gear longer and the car shifts to 2nd hard and then its goes. it does it one time on cold start up and then after it shifts fine and once its warmed up the car shifts like it should.
01-17-2010, 03:35 PM
#40
so your saying the side mounts are vacuum controlled. because if you think about it logically if one mount is leaking then all the rest are going to suffer (the ones that are vacuum controlled).
friesm2000 said "...SURE...": look mister, i was not saying mines was leaking sooooo...well it might be...lol considering i do feel vibration at idle and.....hold on....question-------->
--->basically am i suppose to feel shifts or vibrations? no, if you do then your mounts are done.
so that solves my mount problem. all of the mounts need to be replaced. im at 99k and its about time for them to be swapped out for new ones. i went this long on these old ones.
the tranny fluid i did back at 94k but i will do it again to keep fresh fluid in the car. i checked it also the car is pinkish red and it doesn't smell burnt, it smells exactly like tranny fluid. (i still have that tranny fluid smell in my nose)
the shifting on my car is good. like i said when its cold thats when its harsh and it tends to stay in 1st gear longer and the car shifts to 2nd hard and then its goes. it does it one time on cold start up and then after it shifts fine and once its warmed up the car shifts like it should.
friesm2000 said "...SURE...": look mister, i was not saying mines was leaking sooooo
...well it might be...lol considering i do feel vibration at idle and.....hold on....question-------->--->basically am i suppose to feel shifts or vibrations? no, if you do then your mounts are done.
so that solves my mount problem. all of the mounts need to be replaced. im at 99k and its about time for them to be swapped out for new ones. i went this long on these old ones.
the tranny fluid i did back at 94k but i will do it again to keep fresh fluid in the car. i checked it also the car is pinkish red and it doesn't smell burnt, it smells exactly like tranny fluid. (
i still have that tranny fluid smell in my nose)the shifting on my car is good. like i said when its cold thats when its harsh and it tends to stay in 1st gear longer and the car shifts to 2nd hard and then its goes. it does it one time on cold start up and then after it shifts fine and once its warmed up the car shifts like it should.
,and for both of the vacuumed controlled ones being stiffer, they share the same contol solenoid/supply line, that line is not that big so not too much can flow through it
FYI- "RED" means sarcastic, just to remind you
feeling shifts, in a perfect world NO, but this is't, so you are going to feel them ever so slightly, but only if you are really paying attention should you
i am at 107K with the origional mounts (for them lasting, kinda depends on previous drivers, with how they like to push the car; ie: little old grandma=long time, cause the car would never be floored, let alone SS mode; somebody younger= not so long with constant WOT and SS mode
feeling vibrations
, no you should not beholding first longer when cold, is the programming of the ecu, to try and warm the engine up that much faster, by revving it that much more
the harsh 1-2 shift is fairly commen, as said part of that is due to the ATF being that much thicker when cold (and lets says as soon as it reaches 50 degrees, it proably has warmed up enough to thin out enough to flow properly through all the passages inside the tranny, where below 50 degrees it is still just too thick to flow properly)(also remember we are talking 1/8 inches or smaller passages for some of them, so not much leeway for the fluid being that much thicker)