View Poll Results: how much motor oil do you pour in your 3.2 engine?
4.7 quarts
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24
37.50%
5 quarts
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40
62.50%
Voters: 64. You may not vote on this poll
how much motor oil do you pour in your 3.2 engine?
The following users liked this post:
webmastir (09-23-2012)
The following users liked this post:
webmastir (09-23-2012)
#5
Senior Moderator
I for the entire life of my car have always poured in 5 full quarts. I never messed around with the 4.7
Trending Topics
#8
you guys know its ONLY the atf that reads `between the dots` right???
the engine oil should be at full/upper line or dot!!! not between them! thats LOW
Oil is the lifeblood of the engine~
if your body doesnt do well 1 pint low on blood after a donation,,(approx same 5 qts blood in human body)
How do you think the engine likes being twice, or more, that amount low,
and the heavy demands still put on it to lubricate fast moving parts, and especially to protect the smashing together of parts at several thousand times per minute (rpm)
4.7 with filter is book spec,, will hold 5 no prob- no issue of foaming in the oil pan or other freakiness that mass overfilling will cause
AGREE with prefill the oil filter at least halfway!!!-so the oil soaks into the paper element.
full with oil tends to spill during install~
This way at engine start, the oil pressure builds quickly, completes the filter filling and goes on to lube the engine-
OR you are running the engine pretty much `dry` the whole time you wait for the oil light to go out!!
NOTE to all `5qt` jug buyers
ck actual capacity of jug on label!!!, I noticed the other day it says `5.28 us quarts` on the nextgen (recycled) oil I bought
thats a little too much to throw in,,,
-my opinion...1/4 qt over full mark= no biggie..1/2 qt over= a bit of a worry~
so the last bit in the jug is kept around for the kids cars-or the lawn mower oil change
the engine oil should be at full/upper line or dot!!! not between them! thats LOW
Oil is the lifeblood of the engine~
if your body doesnt do well 1 pint low on blood after a donation,,(approx same 5 qts blood in human body)
How do you think the engine likes being twice, or more, that amount low,
and the heavy demands still put on it to lubricate fast moving parts, and especially to protect the smashing together of parts at several thousand times per minute (rpm)
4.7 with filter is book spec,, will hold 5 no prob- no issue of foaming in the oil pan or other freakiness that mass overfilling will cause
AGREE with prefill the oil filter at least halfway!!!-so the oil soaks into the paper element.
full with oil tends to spill during install~
This way at engine start, the oil pressure builds quickly, completes the filter filling and goes on to lube the engine-
OR you are running the engine pretty much `dry` the whole time you wait for the oil light to go out!!
NOTE to all `5qt` jug buyers
ck actual capacity of jug on label!!!, I noticed the other day it says `5.28 us quarts` on the nextgen (recycled) oil I bought
thats a little too much to throw in,,,
-my opinion...1/4 qt over full mark= no biggie..1/2 qt over= a bit of a worry~
so the last bit in the jug is kept around for the kids cars-or the lawn mower oil change
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 06-06-2011 at 10:23 AM.
The following users liked this post:
webmastir (06-07-2011)
#9
you guys know its ONLY the atf that reads `between the dots` right???
the engine oil should be at full/upper line or dot!!! not between them! thats LOW
Oil is the lifeblood of the engine~
if your body doesnt do well 1 pint low on blood after a donation,,(approx same 5 qts blood in human body)
How do you think the engine likes being twice, or more, that amount low,
and the heavy demands still put on it to lubricate fast moving parts, and especially to protect the smashing together of parts at several thousand times per minute (rpm)
4.7 with filter is book spec,, will hold 5 no prob- no issue of foaming in the oil pan or other freakiness that mass overfilling will cause
AGREE with prefill the oil filter at least halfway!!!-so the oil soaks into the paper element.
full with oil tends to spill during install~
This way at engine start, the oil pressure builds quickly, completes the filter filling and goes on to lube the engine-
OR you are running the engine pretty much `dry` the whole time you wait for the oil light to go out!!
the engine oil should be at full/upper line or dot!!! not between them! thats LOW
Oil is the lifeblood of the engine~
if your body doesnt do well 1 pint low on blood after a donation,,(approx same 5 qts blood in human body)
How do you think the engine likes being twice, or more, that amount low,
and the heavy demands still put on it to lubricate fast moving parts, and especially to protect the smashing together of parts at several thousand times per minute (rpm)
4.7 with filter is book spec,, will hold 5 no prob- no issue of foaming in the oil pan or other freakiness that mass overfilling will cause
AGREE with prefill the oil filter at least halfway!!!-so the oil soaks into the paper element.
full with oil tends to spill during install~
This way at engine start, the oil pressure builds quickly, completes the filter filling and goes on to lube the engine-
OR you are running the engine pretty much `dry` the whole time you wait for the oil light to go out!!
what happened to the oil in the passages that can not get past the pressure releave value and drain back into the oil pan, DRY don't thing so paranoid more likely, shurely not an issue by anymeans, doesn't really make much difference if the filter is full, empty or parcially full, there still is an oil film on the surface unless you've run some type of cleaner through it to remove the oil film and if you did then you really are not staying on top of the maintenance and why you have to use a cleaner to remove the sludge buildup.
#11
ok not physically DRY but by any industrial standard, empty
you are not lubricating properly until decent oil pressure is obtained,
the tiny amount of oil left in the engine--and a dry filter-which takes time to fill BEFORE any oil gets thru it and to the engine... isnt much protection
With all your years in research, certainly you can attest that the majority of engine wear takes place at startup,,and a start without oil in the filter is several seconds of pain and scratching going on inside~
you are not lubricating properly until decent oil pressure is obtained,
the tiny amount of oil left in the engine--and a dry filter-which takes time to fill BEFORE any oil gets thru it and to the engine... isnt much protection
With all your years in research, certainly you can attest that the majority of engine wear takes place at startup,,and a start without oil in the filter is several seconds of pain and scratching going on inside~
#14
2006 NBP TL MT6/ 02TL-S
I have had other cars where pre-filling the oil filter made a big difference-motors where you'd hear some bad things before the oil pressure built up if you didn't. I do it mainly as a precaution. With today's synthetic oil, it's probably not a big factor, especially if it doesn't sit and drain a long time.
However, if the idea of pre-filling an oil filter brothers you, you are prefectly free not to do it that way. I can't see jumping 01tl04tl over a harmless suggestion though..
However, if the idea of pre-filling an oil filter brothers you, you are prefectly free not to do it that way. I can't see jumping 01tl04tl over a harmless suggestion though..
#15
Now if you don't change your filter every time, use cheap oil and wait extended periods between oil changes then you are creating a sludge issue and creating problems and need the extra pressure to make it through the clogged oil passages.
#16
2003 TL-p
i put in what it takes to get to the full mark, which is about 4.6 quarts every time. my engine never burns oil so it stays there for the whole drain interval. as for filling the filter i just fill it up to the to the top once, and let it get absorbed before i spin it on. iv never dumped all 5 quarts in, but it probably doesn't hurt anything.
#21
#22
its more about the high level in the oil pan, contact with moving parts like rod ends, how that can aerate/foam the oil and lose its abilty to lubricate
a tick over the max line on the TL is ok,,there is some safety margin built into that just like everything else
a tick over the max line on the TL is ok,,there is some safety margin built into that just like everything else
#23
pressure issues- ck pcv valve on rear valve cover,,it should have a shaker inside that moves freely
When that clogs up it cause seals to leak in a major way,,recent story by ziner on that subject, rear main leaking, pcv replaced and no more leak!!
When that clogs up it cause seals to leak in a major way,,recent story by ziner on that subject, rear main leaking, pcv replaced and no more leak!!
#24
Drifting
you guys know its ONLY the atf that reads `between the dots` right???
the engine oil should be at full/upper line or dot!!! not between them! thats LOWOil is the lifeblood of the engine~
if your body doesnt do well 1 pint low on blood after a donation,,(approx same 5 qts blood in human body)
How do you think the engine likes being twice, or more, that amount low,
and the heavy demands still put on it to lubricate fast moving parts, and especially to protect the smashing together of parts at several thousand times per minute (rpm)
4.7 with filter is book spec,, will hold 5 no prob- no issue of foaming in the oil pan or other freakiness that mass overfilling will cause
AGREE with prefill the oil filter at least halfway!!!-so the oil soaks into the paper element.
full with oil tends to spill during install~
This way at engine start, the oil pressure builds quickly, completes the filter filling and goes on to lube the engine-
OR you are running the engine pretty much `dry` the whole time you wait for the oil light to go out!!
NOTE to all `5qt` jug buyers
ck actual capacity of jug on label!!!, I noticed the other day it says `5.28 us quarts` on the nextgen (recycled) oil I bought
thats a little too much to throw in,,,
-my opinion...1/4 qt over full mark= no biggie..1/2 qt over= a bit of a worry~
so the last bit in the jug is kept around for the kids cars-or the lawn mower oil change
the engine oil should be at full/upper line or dot!!! not between them! thats LOWOil is the lifeblood of the engine~
if your body doesnt do well 1 pint low on blood after a donation,,(approx same 5 qts blood in human body)
How do you think the engine likes being twice, or more, that amount low,
and the heavy demands still put on it to lubricate fast moving parts, and especially to protect the smashing together of parts at several thousand times per minute (rpm)
4.7 with filter is book spec,, will hold 5 no prob- no issue of foaming in the oil pan or other freakiness that mass overfilling will cause
AGREE with prefill the oil filter at least halfway!!!-so the oil soaks into the paper element.
full with oil tends to spill during install~
This way at engine start, the oil pressure builds quickly, completes the filter filling and goes on to lube the engine-
OR you are running the engine pretty much `dry` the whole time you wait for the oil light to go out!!
NOTE to all `5qt` jug buyers
ck actual capacity of jug on label!!!, I noticed the other day it says `5.28 us quarts` on the nextgen (recycled) oil I bought
thats a little too much to throw in,,,
-my opinion...1/4 qt over full mark= no biggie..1/2 qt over= a bit of a worry~
so the last bit in the jug is kept around for the kids cars-or the lawn mower oil change
"Remove the dipstick and check the level. It should be between the upper and lower marks." (Pg. 169, 1st column).
I interpret this to mean there is an acceptable range of oil volume that is correct for a particular engine, not an exact amount.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
There should be a film of oil left so engine components shouldn't be dry.
Last edited by totaledTL; 06-08-2011 at 09:54 PM.
#26
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
This is untrue. Read the owner's manual instruction on checking the oil:
"Remove the dipstick and check the level. It should be between the upper and lower marks." (Pg. 169, 1st column).
I interpret this to mean there is an acceptable range of oil volume that is correct for a particular engine, not an exact amount.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
There should be a film of oil left so engine components shouldn't be dry.
"Remove the dipstick and check the level. It should be between the upper and lower marks." (Pg. 169, 1st column).
I interpret this to mean there is an acceptable range of oil volume that is correct for a particular engine, not an exact amount.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
There should be a film of oil left so engine components shouldn't be dry.
I drain out all the oil (as much as it can), and then put in 4.7 quartz. I barely hit the bottom marker on the dipstick. It kinda worries me, but I know i put in 4.7 quartz. I think I'll start putting in 5, probably for the convenience of not having leftover oil in a bottle.
#28
Moderator
Since Ever 5qts Not a Single Issue EVA...
Mobil 1 Syn "Extended Performance" (5W-20) 6qt package and in 5 oil changes I get the 6th change for Free![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
+
K&N "Performance Gold" HP-1004 Oil Filter.
=
75 bucks in local Autozone.
Mobil 1 Syn "Extended Performance" (5W-20) 6qt package and in 5 oil changes I get the 6th change for Free
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
+
K&N "Performance Gold" HP-1004 Oil Filter.
=
75 bucks in local Autozone.
#31
This is untrue. Read the owner's manual instruction on checking the oil:
"Remove the dipstick and check the level. It should be between the upper and lower marks." (Pg. 169, 1st column).
I interpret this to mean there is an acceptable range of oil volume that is correct for a particular engine, not an exact amount.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
There should be a film of oil left so engine components shouldn't be dry.
"Remove the dipstick and check the level. It should be between the upper and lower marks." (Pg. 169, 1st column).
I interpret this to mean there is an acceptable range of oil volume that is correct for a particular engine, not an exact amount.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
There should be a film of oil left so engine components shouldn't be dry.
#32
This is silly.
Drain and replace the filter. Throw in 4 qts. and start the engine. Run for a minute or so and then put in about 3/4 of a qt and then add until your within the marks.
Done.
Drain and replace the filter. Throw in 4 qts. and start the engine. Run for a minute or so and then put in about 3/4 of a qt and then add until your within the marks.
Done.
#33
Moderator
30 Bucks for 5qt of OIL + Filter (FRAM Most likely?) sounds wierd since Mobil 1 EP is one of the most Expensive Oil they sell on Autozone... Even if you say that the filter cost you 6 bucks to 7 that would mean that they let go a qt of EP for 4.5 bucks??? And thats minus Tax too.
I did the math wrong is 67 +/- bucks
MSRP: 1qt Mobil 1 EP: 7.62 + Tax = 9.. ish X 6 = 54
MSRP: 1 K&N HP-1004: 11.44 + Tax = 13 ish
54 ish + 13 ish = 67.... Ish.
MSRP PRICES ARE FROM AUTOZONE
Also:
AMSOIL is PITA to get and Royal Purple is insanely expensive I Dunno how would normally a Person stock either of those.....
Last edited by Skirmich; 06-17-2011 at 05:11 AM.
#34
ALLOWABLE oil range and optimum are very different, as noted by farmdevil
you can get by in school with a C average~
BUT
as I tried to explain before- oil is a major part of the engines life blood-
it lubricates, protects parts slamming, sliding, and whirring together-- several thousand times per MINUTE,,
and provides a substanial amount of the engine cooling by carrying away heat thats radiated to the block
Thats the big issue, the loss of cooling ABILTY from oil when its running in allowable range--versus FULL--Optimum
When the level drops below bottem line--thats big trouble waiting to happen as you continue to drive
(note: any car run low on coolant will be low on oil --as the oil got hotter,,and tries to make up for lost cooling)
(note2) there is a small amount of oil consumed by the engine in normal operation- ring blowby--thats why pressure relief systems are there!
most wont notice if filled with 5 qts,,it will be down to the full line after ~7500 miles
So you were always `covered`
back the the blood analogy, your body contains less than the TL!
When you donate blood (hint-please donate if physically able- it really does save lives!)
they take 1 PINT,,thats how much of a qt???
and that leaves you runing poorly, have to drink juice and eat cookies! (they had me at- free cookies!!) before they even allow you to leave and drive!
Now can you imagine your car and how it feels running lets say 2-3 pints low?
the distance from low to full on dipstick is 1 usa qt (iirc)
With the money most of us have in the car--purchase, mods, tires, 105 maitenance..
it seems reasonable to run all systems at optimum
keep brake fluid changed, coolant too, ps fluid,,all those work better with good full fluid
We are all free to run oil as desired,,as long as you keep it ABOVE the MINIMUM line
Some have a `leave it a runnin till the red light comes on` lifestyle
While others think like good mechanics, or pilots, racers,,people who dont like getting stranded
as usual this is all just opinion with the USDA req. minimum 10% fact
you can get by in school with a C average~
BUT
as I tried to explain before- oil is a major part of the engines life blood-
it lubricates, protects parts slamming, sliding, and whirring together-- several thousand times per MINUTE,,
and provides a substanial amount of the engine cooling by carrying away heat thats radiated to the block
Thats the big issue, the loss of cooling ABILTY from oil when its running in allowable range--versus FULL--Optimum
When the level drops below bottem line--thats big trouble waiting to happen as you continue to drive
(note: any car run low on coolant will be low on oil --as the oil got hotter,,and tries to make up for lost cooling)
(note2) there is a small amount of oil consumed by the engine in normal operation- ring blowby--thats why pressure relief systems are there!
most wont notice if filled with 5 qts,,it will be down to the full line after ~7500 miles
So you were always `covered`
back the the blood analogy, your body contains less than the TL!
When you donate blood (hint-please donate if physically able- it really does save lives!)
they take 1 PINT,,thats how much of a qt???
and that leaves you runing poorly, have to drink juice and eat cookies! (they had me at- free cookies!!) before they even allow you to leave and drive!
Now can you imagine your car and how it feels running lets say 2-3 pints low?
the distance from low to full on dipstick is 1 usa qt (iirc)
With the money most of us have in the car--purchase, mods, tires, 105 maitenance..
it seems reasonable to run all systems at optimum
keep brake fluid changed, coolant too, ps fluid,,all those work better with good full fluid
We are all free to run oil as desired,,as long as you keep it ABOVE the MINIMUM line
Some have a `leave it a runnin till the red light comes on` lifestyle
While others think like good mechanics, or pilots, racers,,people who dont like getting stranded
as usual this is all just opinion with the USDA req. minimum 10% fact
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 06-17-2011 at 09:57 AM.
#35
#36
Drifting
![2 Cents](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif)
(farmdevil)- "...so no use causing panic in people who read the manual." <--
![Scratch](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/scratch.gif)
Last edited by totaledTL; 06-17-2011 at 09:22 PM.
#37
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (10)
30 Bucks for 5qt of OIL + Filter (FRAM Most likely?) sounds wierd since Mobil 1 EP is one of the most Expensive Oil they sell on Autozone... Even if you say that the filter cost you 6 bucks to 7 that would mean that they let go a qt of EP for 4.5 bucks??? And thats minus Tax too.
I did the math wrong is 67 +/- bucks
MSRP: 1qt Mobil 1 EP: 7.62 + Tax = 9.. ish X 6 = 54
MSRP: 1 K&N HP-1004: 11.44 + Tax = 13 ish
54 ish + 13 ish = 67.... Ish.
MSRP PRICES ARE FROM AUTOZONE
Also:
AMSOIL is PITA to get and Royal Purple is insanely expensive I Dunno how would normally a Person stock either of those.....
I did the math wrong is 67 +/- bucks
MSRP: 1qt Mobil 1 EP: 7.62 + Tax = 9.. ish X 6 = 54
MSRP: 1 K&N HP-1004: 11.44 + Tax = 13 ish
54 ish + 13 ish = 67.... Ish.
MSRP PRICES ARE FROM AUTOZONE
Also:
AMSOIL is PITA to get and Royal Purple is insanely expensive I Dunno how would normally a Person stock either of those.....
You need to learn to stock up on sales. I have over 50 quarts of oil sitting in my garage. Half of that is synthetic, which half of that is Mobil 1 EP. Not to mention a dozen oil filters or so including K&N and Mobil 1 filters. I never buy filter change kits over 30 bucks.
Last edited by aznboi2424; 06-20-2011 at 09:57 PM.
#38
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
Pep boys had a sale recently for royal purple at 55 bucks.
You need to learn to stock up on sales. I have over 50 quarts of oil sitting in my garage. Half of that is synthetic, which half of that is Mobil 1 EP. Not to mention a dozen oil filters or so including K&N and Mobil 1 filters. I never buy filter change kits over 30 bucks.
You need to learn to stock up on sales. I have over 50 quarts of oil sitting in my garage. Half of that is synthetic, which half of that is Mobil 1 EP. Not to mention a dozen oil filters or so including K&N and Mobil 1 filters. I never buy filter change kits over 30 bucks.
I've seen many YouTube videos of people taking apart oil filters. Fram makes some garbage ass stuff, while Royal Purple seemed to be well constructed.
I couldn't find much about Honda filter quality though, so I wanted some info on Honda vs Royal Purple filter.
#39
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (10)
The best is amsoil. Specifically made for long OCIs (oil change intervals). Next would be the bosch distance plus filter (costs 12-15 bucks). Then it would be Mobil/K&N, Fram extended guard (note the model) and Wix/Napa Gold/Purolator PureOne (Wix makes the napa gold and both are comparable to the pureone).
If you don't like frams, I would stay away from the Honda filter. They are made by honeywell, same company that makes fram. Of course they make it to honda's specifications and are better then the typical orange can of death but they still use cardboard endcaps. But then again, while fram has been bashed a lot, you rarely hear of any filter failing, frams included.
For me, I separate filters into OCIs. The better the filter, the longer I can run it in my car. Lower end filters are good for 3-5k, mid level: 6-8k and high quality: 10-15k. Of course this is purely my opinion.
If you don't like frams, I would stay away from the Honda filter. They are made by honeywell, same company that makes fram. Of course they make it to honda's specifications and are better then the typical orange can of death but they still use cardboard endcaps. But then again, while fram has been bashed a lot, you rarely hear of any filter failing, frams included.
For me, I separate filters into OCIs. The better the filter, the longer I can run it in my car. Lower end filters are good for 3-5k, mid level: 6-8k and high quality: 10-15k. Of course this is purely my opinion.
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Karanx7 (06-27-2011)