dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Yesterday night I was going to Rite Aid and leaving our complex the TL was hesitating to accelerate. Didn't think any of it and push the pedal down further. When leaving Rite Aid it was doing it again.

I drove it for awhile, stop and go, it shift smoothly through all the gears, I had a new tranny put in in 2006 or 2007 and it was the redesign one.

Earlier yesterday it did rain alot and I drove through some big puddles fairly fast.

During the hesitation there is no vibration or sputter.

Thoughts?

SEANcanBEAT

iTrader: (1)

was it raining out that day?

Gabru678

iTrader: (1)

Maybe just some water?
DO you have a CAI?
I drove through a heavy puddle once and got some water in but after that it dried out and was fine.

3.2TLc

I would'nt panic just yet.....Let it dry out and see if the problem happens again. You should slow down for big puddles ! Ha, hah ....any lights or codes ?

01tl4tl

egr system been cleaned?

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Yes, it was
No, but I did removed the resonator like 6 years ago.
Slow down?!?!?! The undercarriage needed a good cleaning.
No lights, It hesitated a little yesterday and Sunday night. I bought it to the office today and will leave the car here rest of the week and drive the TSX.

I cleaned it at 150k, along with new NGKs. Current mileage is 171k

SEANcanBEAT

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like it gets a little moist in the distributor cap, my car does the same thing when it rains very hard

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Hmm now that I think about it, could it be possible that the air filter got wet, and as it warming up a little water was getting in?. Ill have to open it up and check now.

3.2TLc

Hey SEANcanBEAT..... Say what ?

I've had trouble with moisture in the disty cap back in the day, but come on now......!
Go pop your hood and take a pic of the distributor cap so we know what you're referring to.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Lol we have six distributor caps

01tl4tl

iirc early 99s had old school ignition- cap rotor wires and only 1 coil!

but good effort sean,,
for your car buy a new distributor cap GASKET= its a thin oring made to keep water and dust out of the ignition,,goes between cap and dist.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Did not know that Tom
How have you been, well I hope.

01tl4tl

hey dnd--mostly been on the 2 wheel honda

Has prob fixed itself? possible wet cai filter would draw funny,,remove filter and clear any hidden water

its worth cleaning the TB air plate- just in case,,crud does build up on it daily
get both sides and edges
carb cleaner or deep creep, wipe up runoff or it will really run funny!!
expect roughness at first start after that cleaning

how long has the thermo kit been on,,ever retorque the manifold bolts???,,some have found them loosened 1/4 turn! after 500 miles
in the old days we always went back and retorque stuff after some heat cycle and miles
metals stretch,,thats part of torque is the correct amount of stretch being exerted on the bolt

pull a few spark plugs for reading of system function overall


adjusted the valves?

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Looks like problem has fixed it self, hope the steam cleaned out the engine I bought the thermo a very long time ago, I think it was the same time when everyone here was buying them..So at-least 4 years. I re torqued everything when I cleaned the egr last time.

I should change the oil soon shouldn't I??? I have been using 5w30 amsoil in the TL, and since the new Acura and wifes CRV takes Ow20, I was going to order a case of 5w20 from amsoil. At this age should I switch to 5w20; I am in WV(one more year!!!) now so I am not worried about the heat.

01tl4tl

if you want to,,
20 was spec a few years- when they were using it to fool CAFE standards,
then it went back to 30, which overall is better protection for the moving parts
0 or 5w 20 wont hurt your TL at any mileage

when kris took his apart at 200, the cyl walls still had factory honing marks!
barely broken in at 200,000 miles
I dont thing we have to worry about high mileage oil~

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Update, no more hesitation. So I do think it was a wet filter.

I did seafoam through the gas tank and Vac line, defiantly saw a improvement. I usually do seafoam in vac line every six month. This time it had been a year+....

Also Tom years ago you said there was another vacuum line, this was the one that is on the side on the throttle body you were talking about right, because the one on back of the engine only did 3 cyls.. ?

01tl4tl

correct
the one to use is not a line, its the actual nipple that comes out of the area of TB to Manifold connection,,its only line with a hose clamp on it- on top of the engine

solid 20+ inches of vac there will make a tornado of seafoam- sucking it from the container or spray can version (deep creep) when applied from 1 inch away ..science at work!

do NOT use brake booster, or other vac lines on side of engine compartment, rear lines etc
They do not get all 6 cyls,=,very bad for one side clean other side dirty,,
a driver side line along the fender was wrongly used in old diy
until someone here researched the pathways inside the manifold !

hopefully everyone now uses the one `seafoam diy specifically 03 but works for all years`

the easy way to seafoam ---for those new to working on the engine-- and not needing instant cleaning of pistons-carbon (say,for diagnostics)

buy 2 cans, add 1 at just under half tank= 8 gallons
drive ,,more than 30 minute trips work best

next tank when down to 8 gal- add 2nd can
Done