HELP: ABS and TCS lights on solid
10-05-2007, 12:57 PM
#1
HELP: ABS and TCS lights on solid
These lights are on solid when I start the car. A few weeks ago when I hit a pothole or something it went on. It has done this in the past and usually resolves it self every now and then but this time its taking a bit longer.
Car does not feel any different when driving or braking.
Any ideas on how to reset? Also, if i pick up an ODBII scanner, do you think error codes associated with these lights going on would be picked up or would I need a completely different diagnostic for that?
Dealer is $150 for diagnostic alone! owned!
(did a search without much luck)
Thanks!
Car does not feel any different when driving or braking.
Any ideas on how to reset? Also, if i pick up an ODBII scanner, do you think error codes associated with these lights going on would be picked up or would I need a completely different diagnostic for that?
Dealer is $150 for diagnostic alone! owned!
(did a search without much luck)
Thanks!
10-05-2007, 02:14 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
its possible you damaged one of the wheel speed sensors. I dont know if the scan tool will diagnose it(doubtful).
10-05-2007, 03:40 PM
#4
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
I had a similar event happen to me today, i started my car after lunch and the ABS and TCS lights came on, i turned the car off, then back on and they went off, any ideas anyone? (please not the transmission)
10-05-2007, 05:14 PM
#5
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Malayalee King
i think so too...where is this speed sensor located? any DIY?
10-05-2007, 05:59 PM
#6
B A N N E D
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hmm did you move? and are yo u turning your car back to stock
if you hit a pothole hard, you have have damaged or disconnected the ABS harness, and that in turn will shut off the TCS/VSA as well.
if you hit a pothole hard, you have have damaged or disconnected the ABS harness, and that in turn will shut off the TCS/VSA as well.
10-05-2007, 06:06 PM
#7
Just look from the back of the brakes dust shield and find where the black wire is broken or corroded at its connection. That ribbed ring around the axle is where the sensor reads from- to help you locate it
About 45 bucks for a sender unit
Some have been damaged in brake jobs so a good pothole could have snagged it
Then again- maybe its transmission time!
About 45 bucks for a sender unit
Some have been damaged in brake jobs so a good pothole could have snagged it
Then again- maybe its transmission time!
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10-05-2007, 06:08 PM
#8
Lost Soul
Whats the matter? not covered VIN? thats not a real problem- there are ways~~~~
register here with your VIN to make sure
https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/login.asp?brand=acura
Whats the matter? not covered VIN? thats not a real problem- there are ways~~~~
register here with your VIN to make sure
https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/login.asp?brand=acura
10-05-2007, 07:57 PM
#9
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
I am covered, i currently have 85xxx and the transmission was replaced at 79xxx. im currently away at school and the closest acura dealer to me is 241 miles away, sucks huh. hence my confusion
10-05-2007, 08:40 PM
#11
Lost
Dont sweat it- along with the standard 109/7 you also have a warranty just on the replacement of 12 month/10k
If it were to go out- Acura will send a flatbed tow truck to pick it up for you, may even bring the loaner with them!!
If its working smooth now- its probably a winner and will go long past your ownership and the next guy
Dont sweat it- along with the standard 109/7 you also have a warranty just on the replacement of 12 month/10k
If it were to go out- Acura will send a flatbed tow truck to pick it up for you, may even bring the loaner with them!!
If its working smooth now- its probably a winner and will go long past your ownership and the next guy
10-06-2007, 03:22 AM
#14
perfect time for the SS lines to show up- with the wheel off you see everything easy, getting parts on a holiday weekend......
10-06-2007, 05:36 PM
#16
Damn Kiran, sorry to hear that your problem has worsened 
From what is sounds like, you might have to take her in for further diagnosis. You need to stop playing around with your car so much J/K 
Hope things work out.
BTW, are you back on stockies now? Don't tell me you're selling her
From what is sounds like, you might have to take her in for further diagnosis. You need to stop playing around with your car so much J/K Hope things work out.BTW, are you back on stockies now? Don't tell me you're selling her
10-06-2007, 06:07 PM
#18
do the old basic test
normal D5 at 35 and 45 mph light throttle cruise- stomp the gas
what does the trans do- slip slip thunk thunk thud?
engine revs but no forward propulsion in response to throttle-
you may have won a brand newly rebuilt transmission!!
normal D5 at 35 and 45 mph light throttle cruise- stomp the gas
what does the trans do- slip slip thunk thunk thud?
engine revs but no forward propulsion in response to throttle-
you may have won a brand newly rebuilt transmission!!
10-14-2007, 07:25 PM
#22
2nd Gear
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I had the exact same thing happen to my 99TL. Hit a pot hole hard, then the ABS and TCS lights would come on once or twice a day. I drive a few miles, then turn the car off and back on, and everything would be alright until the next morning, when the warning lights would be back on solid. I brought it to a friend who's a mechanic, but his code reader didn't show anything.
I took a chance and swapped out the abs modulator with a used one I got off eBay for $100. My buddy did the work, it wasn't too difficult. We did a thorough brake flushing after. That was 2 weeks ago, and so far everything is working great.
A new modulator is pretty pricey, about $750 - $900. You should probably considered a used one.
I took a chance and swapped out the abs modulator with a used one I got off eBay for $100. My buddy did the work, it wasn't too difficult. We did a thorough brake flushing after. That was 2 weeks ago, and so far everything is working great.
A new modulator is pretty pricey, about $750 - $900. You should probably considered a used one.
10-14-2007, 10:37 PM
#26
hey I have a similar problem but with a TCS, I would drive and the light would come on solid and stay on untill I turn the car off.Then I turn the car on and the light is off, then it would come on again after a while. I never drove the car with TCS so i dont know the difference between it being on or off so i dont know if the sysem turns on or off or just the light. help haha. how do you do a code reset?
10-14-2007, 11:32 PM
#27
if the light is not on, it means that TCS is active.
when you hit the TCS button it should either turn it on or off.
if you remove the TCS fuse in the engine fuse relay box, for 3-5 seconds,and put it back in it should reset the lights...i havent driven my car again so i'll see if they come back on again
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/tt/tt100410.htm
when you hit the TCS button it should either turn it on or off.
if you remove the TCS fuse in the engine fuse relay box, for 3-5 seconds,and put it back in it should reset the lights...i havent driven my car again so i'll see if they come back on again
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/tt/tt100410.htm
10-15-2007, 11:38 AM
#30
Trolling Canuckistan
Originally Posted by Malayalee King
well that reset didnt hold up too long lol
10-16-2007, 05:39 PM
#32
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The easiest way I know to test them is to floor it to see if the wheels spin, or get on some sand and hit it...same concept though. And for the brakes, get going at a decent speed in a wide open area and slam the brakes...if it skids, obviously not working. Definitely not the technical way of doing it, but it should work. Hope you are able to get this fixed without having to cash in your life savings.
10-16-2007, 10:38 PM
#36
Find a wet street,car wash exit, stop- stomp the gas and see if the TCS light flashes and you feel a brake caliper pulsing as it tries to slow down the spinning wheel
It should only work up to 16mph and then stop automatically
Then satisfied its working, get to 35-45 and full effort brakes- 2 feet if you need, try to push pedal thru the floor as if a nun pushing a baby carriage just popped into the street 20 feet ahead.
I had this happen today going ~20mph and a stopped car 3rd in line in next lane- decided to pull into my right turn lane BRAAAAAKES wow that was fun!
So get going and stomp them= should slow and feel a pulsing big time thru the brake pedal
Keep your foot planted on the pedal
Thats the ABS applying and releasing the calipers very quickly to slow them, will operate different on each side too
Other method- find water on 1 side of the car- dry on the other, then do the stomp test for both systems
You are supposed to be able to steer out of trouble while under ABS braking- thats the whole idea of it-
It should only work up to 16mph and then stop automatically
Then satisfied its working, get to 35-45 and full effort brakes- 2 feet if you need, try to push pedal thru the floor as if a nun pushing a baby carriage just popped into the street 20 feet ahead.
I had this happen today going ~20mph and a stopped car 3rd in line in next lane- decided to pull into my right turn lane BRAAAAAKES wow that was fun!
So get going and stomp them= should slow and feel a pulsing big time thru the brake pedal
Keep your foot planted on the pedal
Thats the ABS applying and releasing the calipers very quickly to slow them, will operate different on each side too
Other method- find water on 1 side of the car- dry on the other, then do the stomp test for both systems
You are supposed to be able to steer out of trouble while under ABS braking- thats the whole idea of it-
10-17-2007, 12:53 AM
#38
No- to test the ABS, I meant- brake like your life and someone elses depended on it!!!
do 2 of those from 45 with warm brakes and see if the pedal goes down-
I know you were playing with the brakes a lot recently- maybe some air in the ABS controller is freaking out the sensor??? stranger things have happened- ask me about the trapped air in my car! finally- no more brake shake
Push the pedal until you feel the tires just on the edge of lockup and then keep pushing like you were an untrained driver in a panic stop, just freak out at 45 and stand on the brake pedal~
the ABS should beg wildly pulsing the pedal under your foot as the car slows
Or, if you can find a strip of water thats on one side of the car and dry on the other, do the brake test there - perfect test conditions- different traction levels
Use a hose on your street if you have to
The TCS working is a good sign at least- the speed sensor appears to be working
do 2 of those from 45 with warm brakes and see if the pedal goes down-
I know you were playing with the brakes a lot recently- maybe some air in the ABS controller is freaking out the sensor??? stranger things have happened- ask me about the trapped air in my car! finally- no more brake shake
Push the pedal until you feel the tires just on the edge of lockup and then keep pushing like you were an untrained driver in a panic stop, just freak out at 45 and stand on the brake pedal~
the ABS should beg wildly pulsing the pedal under your foot as the car slows
Or, if you can find a strip of water thats on one side of the car and dry on the other, do the brake test there - perfect test conditions- different traction levels
Use a hose on your street if you have to
The TCS working is a good sign at least- the speed sensor appears to be working
10-17-2007, 01:22 AM
#40
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If you bring your car to a Pep Boys, Autozone, Advanced Auto, or one of those they usually do OBDII tests for free.
If they don't find anything wrong, I'd do what 01tl4tl said to do. Find a wet patch of road and stomp on the brakes. And for christ's sake don't be approaching stop lights @ 50mph.
If they don't find anything wrong, I'd do what 01tl4tl said to do. Find a wet patch of road and stomp on the brakes. And for christ's sake don't be approaching stop lights @ 50mph.