RC99TL

It's getting colder here in NJ and when I first start the TL I get a loud growl from the PS pump.
The shop manual says this is normal for 3-4 minutes when the outside temps go down -and while it does take a bit longer than that to quiet down- when the fluid gets warm all is ok.
My friend who owns a top-notch repair shop says by replacing the o-ring on the return side
of the pump inlet helps as it reduces air getting sucked in while trying to pull the cold, thick fluid. I am going to replace the o-ring and replace the fluid and see what happens.
Can anyone chime in on this?

bruistopher

I get a growl sound coming from the belt side of the engine when it's cold also. It remains loud even warmed up.

First first I thought it was the power steering. Then I heard the noise come from the tensioner area. If I leave it idling it's loud. If I drive at higher RPM it goes away. Plus when I'm observing the tensioner itself. I seen a little wobbling going on when it's idling. I believe the bearings in the tensioner itself is going bad and needs replacement. I'm planning on replace it next month or soon with the serpentine belts too.

Try to check your tensioner and see if there is any wobbling at idle. My engine sounds like a turbo at traffic lights and idling lol

ou sig

mine was very loud last winter so I got the pump rebuilt - like you say just all new seals basically. fixed it 100%

soria

Is a PS pump rebuild mainly just new seals? I noticed you can buy these kits.

Anyone know which seals are generally replaced in this diagram? Id like to get an idea of how difficult this would be to do myself.



Thanks

soria

After a quick search I answered my own question (I should've known better...)

For those wondering, the magic parts are 19, 20, 21, 15, 3, & 14. This is according to resident guru/Acura god, fsttyms1.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...2&postcount=17

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
The link below may also help your rebuild:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...17b400&theater

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ when the 3G side often see this and hence am commenting on this thread....

Symptons:
1> Noise from the PS Pump area
2> You will see bubbles in the PS reservoir....this means there is some leak....

Fix:
Adding a O-ring to the reservoir....

Check this thread out for more details:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/diy-105-power-steering-whine-fix-754586/

soria

I may try that first. It's the same part # for both cars. I hope it works. Thanks!

I wonder why it seems to be more of an issue in the 3G than the 2G, when they share most of the same PS components - hmm...?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ the TL had a problem where the PS hose had to be replaced (there was a recall)

when the dealers did this they either forget the oring or something gets messed up and they were asking $$$ for a new pump....thats when this thread came into existence....

try it out....its only 1$

soria

Yea I'll definitely give it a try, thanks.

I'm going to check for bubbles in my reservoir tomorrow morning.

RC99TL

Definately the pump making noise and there are bubbles in the reservoir so tomorrow new fluid and o-rings.
Report back later.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Perfect....

you dont need new fluid btw....only the o-ring would suffice

RC99TL

Okay, new o-ring, new acura fluid + MORE NOISE!
I think the pump which is a non-acura rebuild is just going bad. it only has about 20 thousand on it.
It took a long time to warm up and quiet down and it now still makes noise when turning the steering when not moving.
Rats!

01tl4tl

how tight is the belt?
acuras ps pump needs it run looser than a normal car
the aftermarket one may be the same

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

When you do a flush the PS Pump makes a ton of noise, since you just had it run dry....

this is how i do it:
1> do a flush
2> turn the car off
3> start the car and turn the steering lock to lock (pushes new fluid thro the system)
4> check level and add fluid....

the noise is usually gone by then....you have to make sure you dont wanna run the PS reservoir dry, else there will be some noise until that air bubble gets out of the system....

RC99TL

belt is ok and the pump was properly bled of any air.
I think either the pump is going bad or the slight leak at the pinion shaft where it exits to the steering column

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ do you still see bubbles in your reservoir after the new o-ring ?

RC99TL

Just a bit at the center of the swirling whirlpool. Figures it was not enough to be cavitating the pump but I may be wrong.
I am off between Christmas and new years and will be bringing it to my friends shop.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

did you switch out any other seals.... ?

RC99TL

nope.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ try switching other seals before you go replacing the pump

Gabru678

iTrader: (1)

Hey wow this same issue started with my moms Odyssey and the noise come only when I Turn the Wheel and doesnt go away after a few minuets like OP said so I am going to Replace some seals as well should work right? And I'm pretty sure they share the same J32 series engine as the 99 TL?

RC99TL

So here is the update:
I started to get a LOUD groining at start up- yikes!
Recently, I purchased a new p/s reservoir as the original had collapsed the filter screen at the bottom of the tank. This issue started with what I think was a non-Honda steering fluid after a p/s pump replacement. With the engine off and turning the wheel I began to get a leak from the seal at the valve body. After flushing the system (with 4 bottles of HONDA p/s fluid) the groan is gone as is the heavy low rpm steering and what- so far- is the leak.

soria

I tried to change the inlet o-ring today, but found the p/s belt to be in the way. There's no room in the 2G to fit any sort of wrench or socket. In the 3G, the belt is angled away from the bolt.

I'm going to try again tomorrow after removing the belt/pulley.

RC99TL

Yeah, unfortunately you have to loosen and remove the belt then after removing the inlet hose flip the pump up to get access to the bolt holding the inlet nipple. And getting to the pump mounting and adjusting bolts is a squeeze as well.
Now I get just a bit of noise depending on steering angle at idle. Up the rpm or wheel straight no noise. I still think it is the failing seal on the valve body sucking in air.
It is much better BUT let this be a lesson - USE ONLY Honda fluid!

soria

I'm going to replace the P/S hose clamps with the better screw type, do a fluid flush, and maybe replace the inlet hose. If that fails I'll go ahead and remove my pump and replace all the seals and o-rings.

RC99TL

Here's my take: I do not believe that a suction induced air leak is the main cause for the noise. The pump is pulling fluid from a near a pint of fluid. If there is no air in the fluid (from either an abundance of air entering the system or extreme heat fostering frothing) the pump must be cavitating for another reason. The shop manual says this is normal in cold temps and if the wheel is turned while the car is stationary. I believe at our 2nd Gen status this is normal. So I guess replacing 12 year old 190 thou parts shouldn't get me upset.

soria

Yes, the manual states it's normal to experience noise for 2-3 minutes in cold temperatures. However, my pump never made this noise before so I refuse to accept lol! Plus, the noise hangs around for much longer than 2-3 mins. The manual may state this because Acura knows eventually the seals will deteriorate?

If the noise doesn't go away I'll just learn to live with it. As long as the pump does it's job. I'm not experiencing any steering issues or leaks, just the noise.

RC99TL

Learning to live with it...