Got my car back from the trans shop today
#1
Got my car back from the trans shop today
Sup guys, well I haven't driven it to much yet, but so far it seems to shift better, and there isn't a huge clunk when going into reverse. Parts replaced according to invoice were; torque converter, master kit, linear solenoids, filter, hub, drum(3rd), pressure plate, and new honda atf-z1 fluid. Sound about right? updates should be included. final total was $2241
#2
thats a good deal and what they should have replaced
IMO on break in:
do an ECU reset with clock fuse #13 passenger side footwell or dash end- just to know its cleared and ready for retraining
Clean the TB intake plate with carb cleaner, lube throttle spring mechanism and possibly lube cable if needed
first 500 miles drive gentle throttle to normal-- so it learns your shift points and style
no redline rpm- no racing!-
be nice as the rubber, metal parts, and fibers get to know each other.
500-1000 miles drive normal to aggressive- use of SS and D5 D4(in stop and go traffic or hills) to know the selenoids and microswitches all work properly in traffic and cruising
If its going to break anything it should within the 1000 miles
After that, drive as desired and get on a fluid change program early,, maybe 10-15k miles a 3 qt or full change and stay on it
Check for leaks- you never know!
Enjoy- it will get smoother with break in
Anyone else getting trans done-
suggest rear engine main seal at same time- 10$ part requires trans removal to reach and keeps oil in the engine~
recently did the `wet clutch` on my bike and now understand the TL auto trans clutch issue,,they are basically the same build of fiber friction plates which cause the clutch to be engaged
Wear those down and it no longer hooks up
I feel much way more power getting to the ground with new clutch- VT1100C Honda shadow,,,dyno run after next oil change (to remove any loose metals and fibers from new parts)
IMO on break in:
do an ECU reset with clock fuse #13 passenger side footwell or dash end- just to know its cleared and ready for retraining
Clean the TB intake plate with carb cleaner, lube throttle spring mechanism and possibly lube cable if needed
first 500 miles drive gentle throttle to normal-- so it learns your shift points and style
no redline rpm- no racing!-
be nice as the rubber, metal parts, and fibers get to know each other.
500-1000 miles drive normal to aggressive- use of SS and D5 D4(in stop and go traffic or hills) to know the selenoids and microswitches all work properly in traffic and cruising
If its going to break anything it should within the 1000 miles
After that, drive as desired and get on a fluid change program early,, maybe 10-15k miles a 3 qt or full change and stay on it
Check for leaks- you never know!
Enjoy- it will get smoother with break in
Anyone else getting trans done-
suggest rear engine main seal at same time- 10$ part requires trans removal to reach and keeps oil in the engine~
recently did the `wet clutch` on my bike and now understand the TL auto trans clutch issue,,they are basically the same build of fiber friction plates which cause the clutch to be engaged
Wear those down and it no longer hooks up
I feel much way more power getting to the ground with new clutch- VT1100C Honda shadow,,,dyno run after next oil change (to remove any loose metals and fibers from new parts)
#3
B A N N E D
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,657
Likes: 3
From: The grande.. Riverdale NJ.. Hopefully moving to skyline village in Lincoln park NJ..yes dirty jersey
That was a great DEAL.. did u get any warrenty with the trans?
I got my whole tranny rebuilt (IT did not move) for $1000 more then u paid but got 3/36 warrenty!
I got my whole tranny rebuilt (IT did not move) for $1000 more then u paid but got 3/36 warrenty!
#6
B A N N E D
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,657
Likes: 3
From: The grande.. Riverdale NJ.. Hopefully moving to skyline village in Lincoln park NJ..yes dirty jersey
Most only gave 12/12 warrenty..
I picked the guy that knew his stuff and took his time talking to me and explaining the process and then listening to what i had to say..
I did get upgraded parts and a tranny cooler and amsoil synthetic ATF..
I guess that what i get for living 10 min from manhatten $10,000 property taxes and $1000 more for a tranny rebuild!
#7
01tl4tl I accelerated a little to pass slower moving traffic on the hwy, this shouldn't hurt should it?
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#9
#10
to be technical: there are steel `pressure` plates and friction plates alternated in a stack for each gear
It works opposite of a manual trans with its DRY clutch plate/disc
which disengage the trans and seperate the power from the trans
On AT,, the clutches keep it engaged!
One of the problems is not enough room for enough plates in the stack to handle the TL power in 2-3rd
The other problem is not enough oil flow to those same plates to keep them cool and have a long lifespan
Revving to pass is fine and suggested too!!--I said gentle to normal
to be sure everything gets used to being at different speeds and demands
Just keep under from 6000rpm till 500 miles and avoid full throttle off the line where its putting extra strain on new parts for that same mileage- do use some throttle when you feel like it- just no fullout full throttle in each gear to redline and slap shift it racing on the new trans is all
Use SS up to about 5000 but not at max rpm up and down limits
Your trans shop may say just drive it and dont worry- but readers of my post know my tendancy to be cautious first, then have fun
example: get the brakes 500 miles of use before really putting your life on the line with them or the car may enter your fave turn backwards~...one last time
It works opposite of a manual trans with its DRY clutch plate/disc
which disengage the trans and seperate the power from the trans
On AT,, the clutches keep it engaged!
One of the problems is not enough room for enough plates in the stack to handle the TL power in 2-3rd
The other problem is not enough oil flow to those same plates to keep them cool and have a long lifespan
Revving to pass is fine and suggested too!!--I said gentle to normal
to be sure everything gets used to being at different speeds and demands
Just keep under from 6000rpm till 500 miles and avoid full throttle off the line where its putting extra strain on new parts for that same mileage- do use some throttle when you feel like it- just no fullout full throttle in each gear to redline and slap shift it racing on the new trans is all
Use SS up to about 5000 but not at max rpm up and down limits
Your trans shop may say just drive it and dont worry- but readers of my post know my tendancy to be cautious first, then have fun
example: get the brakes 500 miles of use before really putting your life on the line with them or the car may enter your fave turn backwards~...one last time
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