When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
dealer had replaced the the fuel pump prior to selling it to me in March this year.... I guess the float lever broke in the tank? Maybe he just used a dirt cheap part to get it off the lot.
what you see in the pic is 7.8 miles driven after filling up a full tank of gas. I have to just watch the mileage and fill up after X amount of miles for now. I'm guessing I have to replace the entire pump assembly? Could it be something else?
1. Check the No.9 BACK UP LIGHT INSTRUMENT LIGHT (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. (I added to bold to ensure you check this first.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
3. Remove the spare tire lid.
4. Remove the access panel from the floor.
5. Disconnect the fuel pump 5P connector.
6. Measure voltage between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be between 10 and 12.5 V.
• If the voltage is as specified, go to step 7 .
• If the voltage is not as specified, check for:
- an open in the YEL/BLU or BLK wire.
- poor ground (G501).
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
8. Install a 2 ohm resistor between fuel pump 5P connector terminals No.1 and No.2.
9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
10. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F".
• If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate, replace the gauge .
• If the gauge is OK, inspect the fuel gauge sending unit (see page 11-180).
NOTE: The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom on the gauge dial when the ignition switch is OFF regardless of the fuel level. (bold added again)