Street Spirit

I've yet to get a response from EBC Brakes themselves, so I'm wondering if anyone has the exact bedding instructions when installing (Rotora Slotted +) EBC Greenstuff. I know each manufacturer lists slightly different instructions. My box of EBC did not come with any info.

Installation is happenin' next week.

Thanks guys.

Chet03TL-S

Straight from Tirerack regarding every manufacturer they sell.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/...rocedures.html

Street Spirit

Thanks for the link! ....Weird - cuz they only suggest holding off on hard braking for the first 500 miles or so... Yet other places suggest the whole 'stop-from-at-this-speed' then 'stop-at-this-speed' type stuff.

?

TeknoKing

Thats my setup, I warmed up the pads a little, while softly braking at highway speed, then I did like 4-5 times hard braking from like 50-20mph.....right after drove for 20 mins to cool them off and thats it.... I just wanted to get that Break-In Residue on the Pads used-up right I guess...

EBC/Rotora Sick combo, saved my ass a few times already, especially in very wet weather.

Lawaia

Try these steps...(courtesy of DaveZ)

From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.

Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.

If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer.

TeknoKing

I remember reading this (above) on some website which specialized in racing products, and I believe they were describing how to brake-in racing pads....I dont recommend such rough treatment of EBC, ESPECIALLY, with brand new rotors...it is never recommended to have at the same time brand new rotors and pads at the same time...thus I would recommned a little gentler approach...you can do what is listed above, just not so many times, and not to such speeds.

Street Spirit

Thanks again for some more info! I wish EBC would just send me the info themselves, but they don't seem very keen on replying.

The Greenstuff pads are not racing pads (EBC's Redstuff are their version of racing pads) - so the compounds and bed-in might not need to be as rough...but again - I'd love to confirm everything.

And as far as it not being a good idea to switch rotors and pads at the same time - that is actually always recommended (as far as I know!). It's not a great idea to get new rotors and keep your old pads.
I will also be switching out the OEM brake lines for steel lines (when installing the Rotora slotted + EBC Greenstuff next week).

More info always welcomed!