DIY: ThermoBlok Spacers install / EGR cleaning
#361
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...DSCF0002-1.jpg
The connector circled on the top of the screen, what is that for? i took the plug out but left the piece on the manifold. I got it wet with water and throttle body cleaner :S im putting everything back together tom
The connector circled on the top of the screen, what is that for? i took the plug out but left the piece on the manifold. I got it wet with water and throttle body cleaner :S im putting everything back together tom
#362
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
intake air temp sensor, make sure to completely dry it inside then just reconnect it, you will proably be just fine with it
below is optional:
also spraying some electronic parts cleaner in the plug, to be on the safe side, to help prevent corrosion from ever happening
also a little die-electric grease would not hurt ethier
below is optional:
also spraying some electronic parts cleaner in the plug, to be on the safe side, to help prevent corrosion from ever happening
also a little die-electric grease would not hurt ethier
#364
can anyone help, when i start my car it revs high around 2200 rpm after 5 seconds and revs up and down. i checked and everything is connected and i dont see how i can plug hoses in the wrong spot hose is to short or is a different size. My air intake sensor did get wet with water but i let it dry over night.
#366
where is the idle adjustment screw
#367
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
the idle control valve is on the bottom of the tb, and idle adjustment screw is a 3/8" or so screw with a slot in it for a flat head screw driver, also on the tb (should be pointing towards the driverside)
but by the sounds of it, you never "actually touched" the tb,
but first question was the battery ever disconnected during the cleaning process, if not might be worth it, to force the computer to relearn the idle quicker (the cleaning of the egr can change the a/f mixture and such)
if it was disconnected, i think the idle screw might be misadjusted, should be adjusted so the idle valve averages about 50% duty cycle or so
but ethier way it sounds like the computer just needs to relearn the idle speed
but by the sounds of it, you never "actually touched" the tb,
but first question was the battery ever disconnected during the cleaning process, if not might be worth it, to force the computer to relearn the idle quicker (the cleaning of the egr can change the a/f mixture and such)
if it was disconnected, i think the idle screw might be misadjusted, should be adjusted so the idle valve averages about 50% duty cycle or so
but ethier way it sounds like the computer just needs to relearn the idle speed
#368
is the idle screw covered by a grey rubber cover? i have a 1999 tl and its on the top of the tb. and no i didnt remove it or adjust it while i cleaned the TB. let me quickly pull the d/c the battery
#371
did you take the manifold off complete with the TB attached?
then turned it upside down and all around getting the water out of it?
Followed the DIY here?
May have stirred up stuff and the Idle Air Control underneath- the bottem side of the TB itself
You need to remove the TB from the manifold in order to clean and drain the manifold
Otherwise you are trapping crud inside--and getting cleaner and water in the TB throat
the mouth of the manifold is the attachment of the TB, and you should run water thru it to rinse out the crud and carb cleaner residue- do a few times to get it all from the hidden spots
Then turn and shake with mouth down to drain
If thats your problem:
remove TB from manifold or remove manifold and start over doing it rigth-
turn TB over and remove 2 screw from round cover plate- remove rubber disc and clean everything you can see
reassemble and torque to spec
should fix you right up!!
Have seen that somehow a vac line gets crossed with a coolant line and the engine has real problems running
recheck everything against the DIY pics- which are of a 99
Do NOT get into any adjustments of anything- fix whats wrong and causing the problem
then turned it upside down and all around getting the water out of it?
Followed the DIY here?
May have stirred up stuff and the Idle Air Control underneath- the bottem side of the TB itself
You need to remove the TB from the manifold in order to clean and drain the manifold
Otherwise you are trapping crud inside--and getting cleaner and water in the TB throat
the mouth of the manifold is the attachment of the TB, and you should run water thru it to rinse out the crud and carb cleaner residue- do a few times to get it all from the hidden spots
Then turn and shake with mouth down to drain
If thats your problem:
remove TB from manifold or remove manifold and start over doing it rigth-
turn TB over and remove 2 screw from round cover plate- remove rubber disc and clean everything you can see
reassemble and torque to spec
should fix you right up!!
Have seen that somehow a vac line gets crossed with a coolant line and the engine has real problems running
recheck everything against the DIY pics- which are of a 99
Do NOT get into any adjustments of anything- fix whats wrong and causing the problem
#372
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
yeah he wanted to pm me, so i did that a while, and tomorrow he is suppose to be taking off the manifold (with the tb attached, cause never removed in the first place from the manifold) and pulling the iac valve off and cleaning it directly
but yeah guessing that the iac valve may still have stuff inside of it causing it to stick still
but yeah guessing that the iac valve may still have stuff inside of it causing it to stick still
#373
Chamorro
iTrader: (3)
Alright so back to this port cleaning. I just threw a P1399 code today. Car shakes and stutters like crazy! Just did plugs and wires about a year ago. First thought was coils, but I totaly forgot about the EGR valve. Been hearing all about it since i've been a member here but never done anything about it. Is the port the only part you have to clean? I'm assuming the valve itself is a part you can't just spray cleaner into? Can't even drive car until i get this issue resolved. Thanks.
#374
f you have over 70k miles or so it may be egr port cleaning time
The valve is not touched
See the first pages of this diy for pics- 00 and later has 6 ports in the manifold to clean, not the 1 on a 99 shown
Just ram a wire hanger thru, use a toothbrush or similar and spray them clean all the way thru,
rinse and DRY is critical as well as multiple flushings thru the manifold mouth
I dont understand how you can do it right without removing every part from the manifold, all sensors and plates- you can remove the outer plenums for a first class job of cleaning
Will help to seafoam your oil as well as gas and intake manifold- everything will be cruded up of egr was plugged
The valve is not touched
See the first pages of this diy for pics- 00 and later has 6 ports in the manifold to clean, not the 1 on a 99 shown
Just ram a wire hanger thru, use a toothbrush or similar and spray them clean all the way thru,
rinse and DRY is critical as well as multiple flushings thru the manifold mouth
I dont understand how you can do it right without removing every part from the manifold, all sensors and plates- you can remove the outer plenums for a first class job of cleaning
Will help to seafoam your oil as well as gas and intake manifold- everything will be cruded up of egr was plugged
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 01-24-2010 at 11:12 AM.
#375
did you take the manifold off complete with the TB attached?
then turned it upside down and all around getting the water out of it?
Followed the DIY here?
May have stirred up stuff and the Idle Air Control underneath- the bottem side of the TB itself
You need to remove the TB from the manifold in order to clean and drain the manifold
Otherwise you are trapping crud inside--and getting cleaner and water in the TB throat
the mouth of the manifold is the attachment of the TB, and you should run water thru it to rinse out the crud and carb cleaner residue- do a few times to get it all from the hidden spots
Then turn and shake with mouth down to drain
If thats your problem:
remove TB from manifold or remove manifold and start over doing it rigth-
turn TB over and remove 2 screw from round cover plate- remove rubber disc and clean everything you can see
reassemble and torque to spec
should fix you right up!!
Have seen that somehow a vac line gets crossed with a coolant line and the engine has real problems running
recheck everything against the DIY pics- which are of a 99
Do NOT get into any adjustments of anything- fix whats wrong and causing the problem
then turned it upside down and all around getting the water out of it?
Followed the DIY here?
May have stirred up stuff and the Idle Air Control underneath- the bottem side of the TB itself
You need to remove the TB from the manifold in order to clean and drain the manifold
Otherwise you are trapping crud inside--and getting cleaner and water in the TB throat
the mouth of the manifold is the attachment of the TB, and you should run water thru it to rinse out the crud and carb cleaner residue- do a few times to get it all from the hidden spots
Then turn and shake with mouth down to drain
If thats your problem:
remove TB from manifold or remove manifold and start over doing it rigth-
turn TB over and remove 2 screw from round cover plate- remove rubber disc and clean everything you can see
reassemble and torque to spec
should fix you right up!!
Have seen that somehow a vac line gets crossed with a coolant line and the engine has real problems running
recheck everything against the DIY pics- which are of a 99
Do NOT get into any adjustments of anything- fix whats wrong and causing the problem
#377
alright last night i started the car up it was fine for 2min then it started to rev hi low.
I started it up now, gave a couple wot's its running fine. No problems with the revs or anything.Im thinking crud was stuck in the engine and now got cleared out with WOT.
Only thing left is to fix a broken bolt :S. probably do that this week. anyone know the part # and how to fix this? do i just unscrew the bolt?
and thx to friesm2000 and 01tl4tl for their help
I started it up now, gave a couple wot's its running fine. No problems with the revs or anything.Im thinking crud was stuck in the engine and now got cleared out with WOT.
Only thing left is to fix a broken bolt :S. probably do that this week. anyone know the part # and how to fix this? do i just unscrew the bolt?
and thx to friesm2000 and 01tl4tl for their help
#378
is it a bolt in the manifold?- that will cause a vac leak and idle revving
There are 2 electrical connectors that can get swapped as well- recheck everything
There are 2 electrical connectors that can get swapped as well- recheck everything
#379
and the upper gasket is on right side up? thats a common problem
dave: you have to clean all the way thru the length of the manifold egr passage as well as each port opening- you can pull the valve off and clean the opening there too but the real fix is inside
the PCV system blows crud from the oil/combustion system into the TB inlet hose and back into the engine. EGR blows actual exhaust gas into the manifold for reburning--stupid emissions stuff
The process- especially with the new gasoline- leaves a lot of residue behind
The egr valve is open at all rpm except idle and full throttle-
dave: you have to clean all the way thru the length of the manifold egr passage as well as each port opening- you can pull the valve off and clean the opening there too but the real fix is inside
the PCV system blows crud from the oil/combustion system into the TB inlet hose and back into the engine. EGR blows actual exhaust gas into the manifold for reburning--stupid emissions stuff
The process- especially with the new gasoline- leaves a lot of residue behind
The egr valve is open at all rpm except idle and full throttle-
#380
#381
Chamorro
iTrader: (3)
and the upper gasket is on right side up? thats a common problem
dave: you have to clean all the way thru the length of the manifold egr passage as well as each port opening- you can pull the valve off and clean the opening there too but the real fix is inside
the PCV system blows crud from the oil/combustion system into the TB inlet hose and back into the engine. EGR blows actual exhaust gas into the manifold for reburning--stupid emissions stuff
The process- especially with the new gasoline- leaves a lot of residue behind
The egr valve is open at all rpm except idle and full throttle-
dave: you have to clean all the way thru the length of the manifold egr passage as well as each port opening- you can pull the valve off and clean the opening there too but the real fix is inside
the PCV system blows crud from the oil/combustion system into the TB inlet hose and back into the engine. EGR blows actual exhaust gas into the manifold for reburning--stupid emissions stuff
The process- especially with the new gasoline- leaves a lot of residue behind
The egr valve is open at all rpm except idle and full throttle-
#382
you cleaned with a wire rod- all the way from where the egr valve is thru the manifold and out the port?
the entire length must be clear or exhaust gas pressure backs up in the system
the entire length must be clear or exhaust gas pressure backs up in the system
#383
Chamorro
iTrader: (3)
No, I wasn't that thorough. Removed EGR and cleand part of port i could see from there. It wasn't even that dirty. No serious blockage. Nothing that should be causing this. Especially to just start happening all of a sudden. Not a slow developing problem. Just bam missfire and bad idle, with rough driving.
#384
Chamorro
iTrader: (3)
Alright sry to thread jack. 01tlrtl you can refer to my new thread for all the info:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/missfire-all-cyl-sputter-rough-idle-761172/
Thanks, sry again for jacking.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/missfire-all-cyl-sputter-rough-idle-761172/
Thanks, sry again for jacking.
#385
ok i finally am going to buck up & do this. i just ordered my TB gaskets. first off, why are there 2 (autozone & advanced auto parts said there were 2 necessary) ? i didn't know there was a stock small spacer. anyway, ordered 2 -- will be in tomorrow. im going to clean my ports out tonight though.
couple quick questions i want to ask really quick (and yes i'll read over this entire thread before cleaning)
it this type of carb cleaner OK to use -- bought 3 cans of it:
also, these 8 bolts on this top plate are the ones that are so fragile when torquing them back on, right?
couple quick questions i want to ask really quick (and yes i'll read over this entire thread before cleaning)
it this type of carb cleaner OK to use -- bought 3 cans of it:
also, these 8 bolts on this top plate are the ones that are so fragile when torquing them back on, right?
#386
no thats an engine decorative cover
Look at the DIY for pics of the actual bolts under that panel- that one comes right off
You will know when you are looking at real engine parts
carb cleaner is carb cleaner- you are fine with that
remember to flip the TB over and clean the IAC under the round cover
Look at the DIY for pics of the actual bolts under that panel- that one comes right off
You will know when you are looking at real engine parts
carb cleaner is carb cleaner- you are fine with that
remember to flip the TB over and clean the IAC under the round cover
#387
added to your thread dave
#388
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#389
no thats an engine decorative cover
Look at the DIY for pics of the actual bolts under that panel- that one comes right off
You will know when you are looking at real engine parts
carb cleaner is carb cleaner- you are fine with that
remember to flip the TB over and clean the IAC under the round cover
Look at the DIY for pics of the actual bolts under that panel- that one comes right off
You will know when you are looking at real engine parts
carb cleaner is carb cleaner- you are fine with that
remember to flip the TB over and clean the IAC under the round cover
#390
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
if so, a little is pretty normal, but if puddleing or something that is really bad then
but normally you can clean the pcv periodically to help avoid excessive pressures inside the motor, basically just take some of the carb spray and spray inside the valve, once clean you should hear it really rattle inside of it (keep cleaning till the rattle does not change anymore)
#391
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inside of it
if so, a little is pretty normal, but if puddleing or something that is really bad then
but normally you can clean the pcv periodically to help avoid excessive pressures inside the motor, basically just take some of the carb spray and spray inside the valve, once clean you should hear it really rattle inside of it (keep cleaning till the rattle does not change anymore)
if so, a little is pretty normal, but if puddleing or something that is really bad then
but normally you can clean the pcv periodically to help avoid excessive pressures inside the motor, basically just take some of the carb spray and spray inside the valve, once clean you should hear it really rattle inside of it (keep cleaning till the rattle does not change anymore)
#392
totally normal for some oil to be in the top, pics in DIY should show it too
Wipe it up and start to work!
Another way to help PCV is run seafoam in the oil and drive 100-200 miles (install new filter first to catch all the stuff that will get loosened in that time) then change oil&filter while engine warm
That will pump some cleaner thru the PCV and clean the rings and lower end oiler parts, plus the VTEC operating parts if you do some 5000 rpm blast
Sludge is everywhere
PCV valve: shoot carb cleaner thru it -shake as said above to test
Be certain the egr path thru the manifold is clear as you can get it
Wipe it up and start to work!
Another way to help PCV is run seafoam in the oil and drive 100-200 miles (install new filter first to catch all the stuff that will get loosened in that time) then change oil&filter while engine warm
That will pump some cleaner thru the PCV and clean the rings and lower end oiler parts, plus the VTEC operating parts if you do some 5000 rpm blast
Sludge is everywhere
PCV valve: shoot carb cleaner thru it -shake as said above to test
Be certain the egr path thru the manifold is clear as you can get it
#393
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
totally normal for some oil to be in the top, pics in DIY should show it too
Wipe it up and start to work!
Another way to help PCV is run seafoam in the oil and drive 100-200 miles (install new filter first to catch all the stuff that will get loosened in that time) then change oil&filter while engine warm
That will pump some cleaner thru the PCV and clean the rings and lower end oiler parts, plus the VTEC operating parts if you do some 5000 rpm blast
Sludge is everywhere
PCV valve: shoot carb cleaner thru it -shake as said above to test
Be certain the egr path thru the manifold is clear as you can get it
Wipe it up and start to work!
Another way to help PCV is run seafoam in the oil and drive 100-200 miles (install new filter first to catch all the stuff that will get loosened in that time) then change oil&filter while engine warm
That will pump some cleaner thru the PCV and clean the rings and lower end oiler parts, plus the VTEC operating parts if you do some 5000 rpm blast
Sludge is everywhere
PCV valve: shoot carb cleaner thru it -shake as said above to test
Be certain the egr path thru the manifold is clear as you can get it
but yes for those engines having a lack of oil changes, it can definetly help though
#394
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totally normal for some oil to be in the top, pics in DIY should show it too
Wipe it up and start to work!
Another way to help PCV is run seafoam in the oil and drive 100-200 miles (install new filter first to catch all the stuff that will get loosened in that time) then change oil&filter while engine warm
That will pump some cleaner thru the PCV and clean the rings and lower end oiler parts, plus the VTEC operating parts if you do some 5000 rpm blast
Sludge is everywhere
PCV valve: shoot carb cleaner thru it -shake as said above to test
Be certain the egr path thru the manifold is clear as you can get it
Wipe it up and start to work!
Another way to help PCV is run seafoam in the oil and drive 100-200 miles (install new filter first to catch all the stuff that will get loosened in that time) then change oil&filter while engine warm
That will pump some cleaner thru the PCV and clean the rings and lower end oiler parts, plus the VTEC operating parts if you do some 5000 rpm blast
Sludge is everywhere
PCV valve: shoot carb cleaner thru it -shake as said above to test
Be certain the egr path thru the manifold is clear as you can get it
Last edited by BlkJ32; 02-28-2010 at 01:31 AM.
#395
before i start unscrewing the main 8 bolts, is it NECESSARY to disconnect the negative battery connection before starting this?
hope someone can answer this quick.
hope someone can answer this quick.
#397
fries- your oil pan and the oil gallies are very different
Run seafoam thru the oil with a fresh filter and see what came out- then you will be converted
the cleaning of the rings etc helps too, my bike gained 200 rpm at idle!
Run seafoam thru the oil with a fresh filter and see what came out- then you will be converted
the cleaning of the rings etc helps too, my bike gained 200 rpm at idle!
#398
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
but that was more sarcastic though, but yeah any motor can use a little cleaning though, and spotty at that
also for the pan, shit drops down to it, from above, so a pretty good indication of the condition of the motor also, and when i am talking clean, i mean it still has the original color where the oil sits (and absolutely not a spec of sludge), there is a little discoloration around where the oil normally sits, but very minimal, and even then very light/thin at that
#399
tear down your motor and look at the rod bearing oil ports- see how small they are and how a little glaze could cause bigger problems
ck www.seafoamsales.com they updated the tech pages - good info on why and how seafoam works
other products have similar results with different methods,
years ago I worked in a shop with the machine that hooks into the fuel lines, and runs on 50/50 mix of gas and seafoam (from big cans!) for 30 minutes- then go blast the crud out
Your car may be a miracle on wheels- run on 87 octane in denver, never need a timing belt etcetc...but for the common folk it wont hurt do a good cleaning of everything
especially those in this thread-
being the DIY thermoblock and EGR port cleaning
It will help to clean everything with this mod or maitenance
E10 gas really is bad for the cars- they were not made for it and it leaves behind a lot of crud
ck www.seafoamsales.com they updated the tech pages - good info on why and how seafoam works
other products have similar results with different methods,
years ago I worked in a shop with the machine that hooks into the fuel lines, and runs on 50/50 mix of gas and seafoam (from big cans!) for 30 minutes- then go blast the crud out
Your car may be a miracle on wheels- run on 87 octane in denver, never need a timing belt etcetc...but for the common folk it wont hurt do a good cleaning of everything
especially those in this thread-
being the DIY thermoblock and EGR port cleaning
It will help to clean everything with this mod or maitenance
E10 gas really is bad for the cars- they were not made for it and it leaves behind a lot of crud
#400
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
tear down your motor and look at the rod bearing oil ports- see how small they are and how a little glaze could cause bigger problems
ck www.seafoamsales.com they updated the tech pages - good info on why and how seafoam works
other products have similar results with different methods,
years ago I worked in a shop with the machine that hooks into the fuel lines, and runs on 50/50 mix of gas and seafoam (from big cans!) for 30 minutes- then go blast the crud out
Your car may be a miracle on wheels- run on 87 octane in denver, never need a timing belt etcetc...but for the common folk it wont hurt do a good cleaning of everything
especially those in this thread-
being the DIY thermoblock and EGR port cleaning
It will help to clean everything with this mod or maitenance
E10 gas really is bad for the cars- they were not made for it and it leaves behind a lot of crud
ck www.seafoamsales.com they updated the tech pages - good info on why and how seafoam works
other products have similar results with different methods,
years ago I worked in a shop with the machine that hooks into the fuel lines, and runs on 50/50 mix of gas and seafoam (from big cans!) for 30 minutes- then go blast the crud out
Your car may be a miracle on wheels- run on 87 octane in denver, never need a timing belt etcetc...but for the common folk it wont hurt do a good cleaning of everything
especially those in this thread-
being the DIY thermoblock and EGR port cleaning
It will help to clean everything with this mod or maitenance
E10 gas really is bad for the cars- they were not made for it and it leaves behind a lot of crud
and yes i know how small some of the passages can be inside a motor, and can be easily plug, peanut lifters really have some small passages to them, like 2-3 specs of dirt across the passage and they are plugged or severely restricted, and then noisy, and not working properly
and that 87, no such thing as that here, geneally only 85 (yes 85), 89, and 91, but yeah only put 91 in mine (and prefer Shell also), but yeah alot of people like to cheap out though, and go for the cheapo gas