DIY: Seafoam on '03 TL-S
#83
OM NOM NOM NOM
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omg, the cops followed me around for a while. hahaha. they pulled me over and asked what's wrong with my car, and i told them i seafoamed. the cop laughed and said have fun and drove off. LOL
#84
Who says there is no smoke!! Just because you cant see it from the mirror inside your tinted windows
As long as you knew that you were not dropping oil, and you were aware the car was smoking...
have fun! gotta love it~
As long as you knew that you were not dropping oil, and you were aware the car was smoking...
have fun! gotta love it~
#85
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Couldn't have been simpler to do.
I guess my car was already in pretty good shape. A couple weeks ago I did 8 oz. in the oil just prior to my oil change (and switched to synthetic as this was my first oil change owning the car). This time I did 8 oz of seafoam through the hose just like directed and took about 5 minutes or so to suck it all in. I did kill the car a few times, but no biggie. Anyway, no white smoke while doing it. I then threw 8 oz. in the tank that was 1/4 full. Waited about 13 minutes, and then went out. Nothing white until I went from about 30 to 60 mph on a country road. Then I left a pretty nice trail of white smoke. After that cleared, only about twice more did I see any trace of smoke, and that was accelerating from 20 to 60 or so. After that, I kept driving as such for about 20 minutes, but no more smoke. Wasn't exactly what I was expecting from my 02 TL-S with over 80K, but like I said, maybe my car was already in good shape and there wasn't much to burn off.
Still, great thread and thanks for making things easy for us non experience seafoamers.
I guess my car was already in pretty good shape. A couple weeks ago I did 8 oz. in the oil just prior to my oil change (and switched to synthetic as this was my first oil change owning the car). This time I did 8 oz of seafoam through the hose just like directed and took about 5 minutes or so to suck it all in. I did kill the car a few times, but no biggie. Anyway, no white smoke while doing it. I then threw 8 oz. in the tank that was 1/4 full. Waited about 13 minutes, and then went out. Nothing white until I went from about 30 to 60 mph on a country road. Then I left a pretty nice trail of white smoke. After that cleared, only about twice more did I see any trace of smoke, and that was accelerating from 20 to 60 or so. After that, I kept driving as such for about 20 minutes, but no more smoke. Wasn't exactly what I was expecting from my 02 TL-S with over 80K, but like I said, maybe my car was already in good shape and there wasn't much to burn off.
Still, great thread and thanks for making things easy for us non experience seafoamers.
#86
thats normal to only get real `seeable` smoke trail when on the power- the idea is to blow out the residue and goo as you heat the engine and run fast moving gas and air thru it.
Thats why the 4000 rpm run to heat things up again and blow them out with pressure- do some 4000-to 5000 blips and push more gas with cleaner in the system.
You say `hose`- did you use the vac port located at the TB - the hose with a clamp comes off and there is a metal nipple- you use a hose on that to dip into the can?
5 minutes putting it in- if you can slow that down to 10- even letting the engine just run for a minute and then more foam- you want it to stay inside, not blow right thru.
Repeat in a month or 2, this time get `Deep Creep` aerosol can with seafoam in it- makes it easy to do.
Make sure you get the TB plate inside- use carb cleaner or TB spray for that. I have posted directions many times- just scroll thru the threads
Repeat in a month or 2 with the gas, 1 can in half a tank, and the vac port- as much of a can as will go in. Then you are set for a year
Thats why the 4000 rpm run to heat things up again and blow them out with pressure- do some 4000-to 5000 blips and push more gas with cleaner in the system.
You say `hose`- did you use the vac port located at the TB - the hose with a clamp comes off and there is a metal nipple- you use a hose on that to dip into the can?
5 minutes putting it in- if you can slow that down to 10- even letting the engine just run for a minute and then more foam- you want it to stay inside, not blow right thru.
Repeat in a month or 2, this time get `Deep Creep` aerosol can with seafoam in it- makes it easy to do.
Make sure you get the TB plate inside- use carb cleaner or TB spray for that. I have posted directions many times- just scroll thru the threads
Repeat in a month or 2 with the gas, 1 can in half a tank, and the vac port- as much of a can as will go in. Then you are set for a year
#87
02 TL Type S ABP
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By hose I meant I bought a two foot section at auto zone and used that.
It might have taken me almost 10. I mean I took my sweet time. I was just saying that I didn't do it real quick and be done with it. I don't think you can really do it quick. It would just kill the engine. Anyway, thanks again for the tips.
It might have taken me almost 10. I mean I took my sweet time. I was just saying that I didn't do it real quick and be done with it. I don't think you can really do it quick. It would just kill the engine. Anyway, thanks again for the tips.
#88
the slower the input the better actually- as long as you dont stick the hose all the way into the can and rev the engine so it sucks the can flat.... you are ok!
It takes some driving for the cleaning to keep working and over the next few days and tanks of gas-- it gets better and better
It takes some driving for the cleaning to keep working and over the next few days and tanks of gas-- it gets better and better
#89
NO BP FUEL IN MY
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Just to clear it up,
The smoke is when doing the VAC line correct?
If i wanna do the crank case, just poor it in, ride around for a while before replacing the oil.
Any smoke/side effects to watch for on this one?
Thanks
The smoke is when doing the VAC line correct?
If i wanna do the crank case, just poor it in, ride around for a while before replacing the oil.
Any smoke/side effects to watch for on this one?
Thanks
#90
Three Wheelin'
vac line will cause smoke, in your oil will not. On fresh oil no more then 100miles, on oil towards the end of it's life, just idle and change.
It makes your oil very thin and can cause damage if you drive too far.
I did 100 miles on nearly fresh oil. No problems.
It makes your oil very thin and can cause damage if you drive too far.
I did 100 miles on nearly fresh oil. No problems.
#91
NO BP FUEL IN MY
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Originally Posted by rob-2
vac line will cause smoke, in your oil will not. On fresh oil no more then 100miles, on oil towards the end of it's life, just idle and change.
It makes your oil very thin and can cause damage if you drive too far.
I did 100 miles on nearly fresh oil. No problems.
It makes your oil very thin and can cause damage if you drive too far.
I did 100 miles on nearly fresh oil. No problems.
Ok. Thats why I ask, I wanna change the oil soon, so I figured I'll run it through just before.
Thanks.
#92
the filter being able to catch and hold all the goop thats going to hit it when driven around-- is the more important thing, IMO-
a filter at the end of its 7500 mile life expectancy is not going to do br able to do it-
When it reaches capacity, the bypass valve will open, shutting the filter out of the loop- and all the dirty crud freed up-sludgey mess oil-- continues to circulate- never entering the filter to be absorbed-
Then when you change the oil - the new filter will immedialty be hit by the stuff loose in the system and get filled up-----
Spend 4 bucks on a basic brand filter for the cleaning drive and go for it!!!
Put a new filter on it- drive it 50-100 miles and change oil and filter
In the future you can do it idle in the driveway. But with seafoam being hi detergent oils and allowed to drive on- unlike others which specify no driving- idle 5 minutes--those are made of different stuff
Of course this is all just my opinion and does not reflect the views of acurazine anything disclaimer etc
a filter at the end of its 7500 mile life expectancy is not going to do br able to do it-
When it reaches capacity, the bypass valve will open, shutting the filter out of the loop- and all the dirty crud freed up-sludgey mess oil-- continues to circulate- never entering the filter to be absorbed-
Then when you change the oil - the new filter will immedialty be hit by the stuff loose in the system and get filled up-----
Spend 4 bucks on a basic brand filter for the cleaning drive and go for it!!!
Put a new filter on it- drive it 50-100 miles and change oil and filter
In the future you can do it idle in the driveway. But with seafoam being hi detergent oils and allowed to drive on- unlike others which specify no driving- idle 5 minutes--those are made of different stuff
Of course this is all just my opinion and does not reflect the views of acurazine anything disclaimer etc
#93
YoungatHeart
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have a newbie question about seafoaming...got an '03 TL-S...when taking off the plastic engine cover, there's a black plastic clip on it...does that snap apart?..what's connected to it that I need to be careful about?...sorry, I have no picture of it to post..thanx, guys...I know I can count on someone to help...
#95
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Originally Posted by goldendragon576
there's a clip? I have an 02 and I just unscrew all the bolts and it just slides up. Where exactly is the clip?
it's right in the center of the cover towards the right side as you look at it...
#96
Hey thanks for the DIY. Been looking for some 03 TL DIY on seafoaming with pic forever. Any who so I only need to use about 6oz of seafoam for 1/4 of my gas tank? Went to Autozone to buy some synthetic oil today for an oil change and got a good deal on Mobil 1 Full synthetic oil. 5qt + Mobil1 Oil filter for only 29.99 + tax very cheap imo those oil goes for 7.49 a qt regularly. Also picked up a can of seafoam for 7.99 -_- look like i'm going to return it and get it at walmart for 3 dollar cheaper lol. Thanks for the DIY again.
#97
when you go to the zone EXCHANGE the liquid seafoam for its aerosol spray version
DEEP CREEP---it will make your life easy - instead of dipping hose and all that- its a spray can with straw- very easy to control- you can see exactly how much at a time is going in, and-- as a fun science demo--- hold the straw about an inch away from the vac port and shoot dribbles- it will turn it into a tornado as the low pressure suction of the intake grabs it.
I have done 3 cars with this now- and not accidentally stalled the engine in the process!
Note- If thjr engine runs rough - stick your thumb over the vac port and it smooths out- the continue DeepCreep small spray spray- wait spray spray
Done right there will be smoke from the exhaust at about half a can- just keep going slow slow- let it run for a minute- resume
Use about 12 oz of Deep Creep in the vac port and a little on the TB plate to clean it right up! The rest of the can has more uses than you can believe- lubes door locks and hinges- water repellant for engine parts before cleaning engine...read the can!!!-
Veterans will know this is a miracle to have no stalling issues- unless you put way too much in at once, but after the 1st time you know and control it better.
For the most effective use in the gas- considering you dont run the tank empty and its better to run a strong dose longer: to have a cleaning does of 2 oz seafoam to 1 gallon gas- add 1 16 oz can to 1/2 tank of gas.
It will pay you back in performance and mileage
DEEP CREEP---it will make your life easy - instead of dipping hose and all that- its a spray can with straw- very easy to control- you can see exactly how much at a time is going in, and-- as a fun science demo--- hold the straw about an inch away from the vac port and shoot dribbles- it will turn it into a tornado as the low pressure suction of the intake grabs it.
I have done 3 cars with this now- and not accidentally stalled the engine in the process!
Note- If thjr engine runs rough - stick your thumb over the vac port and it smooths out- the continue DeepCreep small spray spray- wait spray spray
Done right there will be smoke from the exhaust at about half a can- just keep going slow slow- let it run for a minute- resume
Use about 12 oz of Deep Creep in the vac port and a little on the TB plate to clean it right up! The rest of the can has more uses than you can believe- lubes door locks and hinges- water repellant for engine parts before cleaning engine...read the can!!!-
Veterans will know this is a miracle to have no stalling issues- unless you put way too much in at once, but after the 1st time you know and control it better.
For the most effective use in the gas- considering you dont run the tank empty and its better to run a strong dose longer: to have a cleaning does of 2 oz seafoam to 1 gallon gas- add 1 16 oz can to 1/2 tank of gas.
It will pay you back in performance and mileage
#98
note on the Mobil1- they changed the names around and used a different cheaper base oil- for the original well loved formula- buy it as mobil1 High Mileage
thats the good stuff
you can run a little seafoam in the oil for 5-10 minutes, in the driveway- warm engine at idle
then immedialty change the oil and filter
thats the good stuff
you can run a little seafoam in the oil for 5-10 minutes, in the driveway- warm engine at idle
then immedialty change the oil and filter
#100
my info is High Mileage
when fsttyms1 gets back from vacation he can verify- or one of the oil experts here- I only go by what I read as I use a different brand
when fsttyms1 gets back from vacation he can verify- or one of the oil experts here- I only go by what I read as I use a different brand
#101
hey 01tl4tl i did return that seafoam but couldn't fine that spraying type at either zone or checker and walmart didn't have any seafoam at all. So i picked up some regular seafoam @ checker because they were cheaper. Anyway I'm going to do it next time my gas tank goes to half i'm going to put half the can (8oz) in the gas tank and full can in the vac line. Bought a 5/16 hose for it. Anyway I bought the Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full synthetic oil, this stuff is actually more expensive than "Royal Purple" full synthetic regularly. They just happen to be on sale =p too good of a deal. I think you're talking about the synthetic blend oils right? I think those are the ones that use cheap base oil.
#102
YoungatHeart
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Hey, fellas....would really appreciate an explanation as to what that black plastic like clip is located on the engine cover....right side, center is the location..thanx all....btw, we're talking '03 TL-S
#103
luan
more in the gas is better than less- 2oz per gallon gas is cleanng doseage- so a can at 1/2 tank is good.
The vac port- the engine seems to struggle once you get about 12 oz seafoam in- there is usually a little left in the can- I add that to the gas tank as well
Anything over 8 oz in the intake vac is for extra dirty engines- 8-12 oz is good for them
at my local zone, Deep Creep is near the seafoam on the wall display but sometimes hidden.
You may have to ask them to look it up in the computer, as not all employees know every product they sell
the liquid works fine- just be sure to go very small slow amounts- it will be obvious when you start. Warm engine first with 10 minute drive, and do the after blowout drive as described with 4000 rpm
NOTE: Do NOT rev the engine wildly in the parking lot after foaming- let it idle and stabilize, then slowly drive 2000 rpm till runs smooth- now get some rpm and heat in the thing and exhaust pressure to blow the crud out
more in the gas is better than less- 2oz per gallon gas is cleanng doseage- so a can at 1/2 tank is good.
The vac port- the engine seems to struggle once you get about 12 oz seafoam in- there is usually a little left in the can- I add that to the gas tank as well
Anything over 8 oz in the intake vac is for extra dirty engines- 8-12 oz is good for them
at my local zone, Deep Creep is near the seafoam on the wall display but sometimes hidden.
You may have to ask them to look it up in the computer, as not all employees know every product they sell
the liquid works fine- just be sure to go very small slow amounts- it will be obvious when you start. Warm engine first with 10 minute drive, and do the after blowout drive as described with 4000 rpm
NOTE: Do NOT rev the engine wildly in the parking lot after foaming- let it idle and stabilize, then slowly drive 2000 rpm till runs smooth- now get some rpm and heat in the thing and exhaust pressure to blow the crud out
#104
Ok thanks alot man. I was wondering how to get those spirited drive lol. Do I keep the rpm at 4000 o.o or i just gotta hit that often cuz the car will kinda go really fast if i keep it at 4000rmp o.o i almost never hit that high cuz I don't want to waste gas using the VTec lol only use it once since i got the car cuz I got an urge to try out the VTec power lol and it was really awesome how i just pull off from all the other car.? And the warm engine part do i drive around for a bit get the engine to normal operation temperature? I saw that Deep Creep before somewhere but I couldn't remember where it was but anyway that liquid will do just fine for me. XD from all the reading I think I know how to handle the vac port part. LoL i hope my neighbor won't find it weir my car producing large amount of smoke.
#105
go back and read the instructions on page 1 of this thread-
a few of us worked on this DIY till we thought it was fool proof----
but we get a lot of questions still
On the warm up drive- about 10 minutes of 4000 rpm to get the internals HOT
USE the SS mode of the transmission to hold it in 2nd gear- 45 mph- is that too fast for you? Just push the shifter to the left left from D5 and it will be in manual control up up down shifting- see owners manual for full info
the rev limiter still protects you--- and wont allow a downshift that would cause an overrev! smart transmission~
now its nice and warm!!!
do the foam- take 10 minutes or more to add it for best result, then let it percolate with engine off for 10-15 minutes- you dont want it to cool off!!
follow directions on restart of let idle till smooth- a few minutes, and it will rev a little without rattling noise in the engine.
Drive away using SS mode and hold at 2000 rpm till engine runs like its cleared out most of the stuff- when it will rev to 4000 without complaint - its ready for 4000rpm for 10-15 minutes with some quick trips to 5000 rpm and then back down, you can slow down and speed up with full throttle if you have a safe place for it.
You do not need big speed- just rpm, which makes high exhaust gas pressure and sucks lots of cleaner laden gas into the intake-injectors valves pistons and out it goes
so 2nd gear is the way to go
Make sure to put a can, 16 ounces in 1/2 tank gas before all this- so the gas pumps cleaner at everythingthe whole time
Doing it right makes a differance in the end results
Smoke is relative to exhaust temp in cat- when the hi detergent oils of seafoam hit the exhaust system- you get smoke- surprise!
The carbon crud blowout is a different color- follow a car that you just foamed- its entertaining--to say the least
a few of us worked on this DIY till we thought it was fool proof----
but we get a lot of questions still
On the warm up drive- about 10 minutes of 4000 rpm to get the internals HOT
USE the SS mode of the transmission to hold it in 2nd gear- 45 mph- is that too fast for you? Just push the shifter to the left left from D5 and it will be in manual control up up down shifting- see owners manual for full info
the rev limiter still protects you--- and wont allow a downshift that would cause an overrev! smart transmission~
now its nice and warm!!!
do the foam- take 10 minutes or more to add it for best result, then let it percolate with engine off for 10-15 minutes- you dont want it to cool off!!
follow directions on restart of let idle till smooth- a few minutes, and it will rev a little without rattling noise in the engine.
Drive away using SS mode and hold at 2000 rpm till engine runs like its cleared out most of the stuff- when it will rev to 4000 without complaint - its ready for 4000rpm for 10-15 minutes with some quick trips to 5000 rpm and then back down, you can slow down and speed up with full throttle if you have a safe place for it.
You do not need big speed- just rpm, which makes high exhaust gas pressure and sucks lots of cleaner laden gas into the intake-injectors valves pistons and out it goes
so 2nd gear is the way to go
Make sure to put a can, 16 ounces in 1/2 tank gas before all this- so the gas pumps cleaner at everythingthe whole time
Doing it right makes a differance in the end results
Smoke is relative to exhaust temp in cat- when the hi detergent oils of seafoam hit the exhaust system- you get smoke- surprise!
The carbon crud blowout is a different color- follow a car that you just foamed- its entertaining--to say the least
#106
vtec doesnt engage until ~4700 rpm- may vary slightly by year
#107
lol i never knew about that rev limiter on this car. Just bought it for about 2-3 week now lol. I guess i made the right choice buying it. 36k miles for only 11grand, car was alway taken care of on schedule by Acura dealer. Anyway thanks you for the advice. just waiting for my gas tank to go back to half now. So use SS and stick with 2nd gear? I think i got the whole process now. Thanks again man.
#108
enjoy!
since you are a recent new owner:
Register with acura at 1-800-382-2238 x5, tell them you are the new owner of record and ask about any `recalls open` or warranty extensions on SRS or seatbelts- that type of thing- any past warrabnty repairs made?
and here http://owners.acura.com/registration...erstepone.aspx
you can store the radio and nav security codes there too
you'll want to read the owner manual cover to cover- there are some special tips on seat heater operation- the traction controls- abs brakes, vtec operation- rev limits- shift speed limits--its a very smart car that looks to out-think some drivers~
in case the car didnt come with one- here is the free link- click year then model https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...01_OMANUAL.asp
since you are a recent new owner:
Register with acura at 1-800-382-2238 x5, tell them you are the new owner of record and ask about any `recalls open` or warranty extensions on SRS or seatbelts- that type of thing- any past warrabnty repairs made?
and here http://owners.acura.com/registration...erstepone.aspx
you can store the radio and nav security codes there too
you'll want to read the owner manual cover to cover- there are some special tips on seat heater operation- the traction controls- abs brakes, vtec operation- rev limits- shift speed limits--its a very smart car that looks to out-think some drivers~
in case the car didnt come with one- here is the free link- click year then model https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...01_OMANUAL.asp
#109
thanks man. i'm back with another question. I haven't personally open the engine cover yet but will it look like the 03 TL-S? I have the regular 03 TL. nd thanks for the info on the register. I'm doing it ASAP
#110
and about the repairs on the car, I'm not too sure. There is a service records that come with the car when i buy and it listed everything in there. Mostly just oilchange and that kind of stuff. And the last owner was an old white lady who let her dealer take care of the car on scheduled day. She hasn't missed a single service schedule and it was all performed by Jody Wilkinson Acura. But yeah i should ask about those recall and stuff just to be sure.
#111
Just because the dealer serviced the car and is SUPPOSED to check the VIN every time for recalls- we all know that life is not lived according to the instructions
The engine will look the same regardless of engine- you wont notice the differances and the seafoam procedure is the same
Have fun and enjoy
set your tires at 36 front 34 rear and the car handles much better than 32 all around
The engine will look the same regardless of engine- you wont notice the differances and the seafoam procedure is the same
Have fun and enjoy
set your tires at 36 front 34 rear and the car handles much better than 32 all around
#112
Hey guys, im getting ready to seafoam my 03 TL Type-S which has 75K miles on it. Gonna wait for it to get dark first so the smoke show won't offend TOO many people hahaha!!! I went ahead and warned the wife that if she hears the car running funny and see's ALOT of smoke to not worry it's normal. First off want to say THANKS to everyone involved with this DIY. Very clear instructions.
One question before I start though. Does the Vaccume line mentioned in here get all 6 cylinders?? I read somewhere on this DIY that it only hit 3 of them?????
Also, I bought one 16oz can for the service. Will 8oz to the intake, and 8oz to the 1/4 tank of fuel be enough?
And one last thing, will the spark plugs need to be replaced right away?? I was gonna wait till I hit 100K miles then have them replaced along with the water pump and timing belt. Thanks again guys.
One question before I start though. Does the Vaccume line mentioned in here get all 6 cylinders?? I read somewhere on this DIY that it only hit 3 of them?????
Also, I bought one 16oz can for the service. Will 8oz to the intake, and 8oz to the 1/4 tank of fuel be enough?
And one last thing, will the spark plugs need to be replaced right away?? I was gonna wait till I hit 100K miles then have them replaced along with the water pump and timing belt. Thanks again guys.
#113
the spark plugs will be fine as long as you do the after drive burnoff run
for max performance replace plugs more than 70k miles old- they are not perfect anymore~
Get another can- buy DEEP CREEP -seafoam in aerosol spray paint can for ease of application- way better than the hose and dip and sip method
dump the other can in 1/2 tank of gas for best results
The small vac line that goes to the rear side of the manifold is the one NOT to use!
The later pages of DIY show the correct port, located at the TB assembly- it is the only hose with a squeeze clamp and when you remove the hose there is a metal nipple.
Read the diy again, especially the later post pics and you will be fine
warm the engine with 4000 rpm 10 minute drive- use the SS mode of transmission so 2nd gear 45 mph is fine- you just want to make it hot inside the engine- and same thing afterwards- 4000 rpm to heat and blow out crud and goo
But follow the directions about letting it idle a few minutes, then drive 2000 rpm, then the 4000 run and some jumps to 5000 rpm to force extra exhaust pressure
put the stuff in gas first so its at work the entire time
for max performance replace plugs more than 70k miles old- they are not perfect anymore~
Get another can- buy DEEP CREEP -seafoam in aerosol spray paint can for ease of application- way better than the hose and dip and sip method
dump the other can in 1/2 tank of gas for best results
The small vac line that goes to the rear side of the manifold is the one NOT to use!
The later pages of DIY show the correct port, located at the TB assembly- it is the only hose with a squeeze clamp and when you remove the hose there is a metal nipple.
Read the diy again, especially the later post pics and you will be fine
warm the engine with 4000 rpm 10 minute drive- use the SS mode of transmission so 2nd gear 45 mph is fine- you just want to make it hot inside the engine- and same thing afterwards- 4000 rpm to heat and blow out crud and goo
But follow the directions about letting it idle a few minutes, then drive 2000 rpm, then the 4000 run and some jumps to 5000 rpm to force extra exhaust pressure
put the stuff in gas first so its at work the entire time
#114
Thanks... but isn't the pic shown at the top of page 1 and then the pic towards the bottom of page one showing the SAME Vaccume line. They both show the metal nipple once the hose is removed.
#115
And i have the instructions you provided written down downstairs in the basement as far as the drive goes after the seafoam is installed and im going to follow them to a "T". You really seem to know your stuff when it comes to these Acuras. Thanks man!!
#116
well I just did the "seafoam treatment" through the TB Vaccume line and the gas tank. I hardly got any smoke, and the car fired right up after letting it sit for 15 mins. Didn't sputter or anything. Drove like normal right from the get go. Also got no CEL light.. only time I saw any smoke at all was when I first nailed it at about 4000 RPM's but after about 3 or 4 seconds thats all I saw. I put 8oz in the intake through the hose and 8 oz in the fuel tank...
#117
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Just because the dealer serviced the car and is SUPPOSED to check the VIN every time for recalls- we all know that life is not lived according to the instructions
The engine will look the same regardless of engine- you wont notice the differances and the seafoam procedure is the same
Have fun and enjoy
set your tires at 36 front 34 rear and the car handles much better than 32 all around
The engine will look the same regardless of engine- you wont notice the differances and the seafoam procedure is the same
Have fun and enjoy
set your tires at 36 front 34 rear and the car handles much better than 32 all around
#118
if your tires allow 44 at max weight allowed on the tire- then you can safely run 36-38 at the cars actual weight
8 oz foam in the intake vac port is barely enough for a maitenance cleaning-
1st timers need as much of 16 oz as will go in there.
Smoke is exhaust temp related- read my many post on the subject
Also 16 oz in 1/2 tank of gas is going to give best results with that method
I didnt check the pics in this diy- as long as you found a metal nipple going directly into the intake manifold or the Throttle Body area- thats it
You can tell because it has a small squeze clamp on the hose! and 20 inches of vac!!
8 oz foam in the intake vac port is barely enough for a maitenance cleaning-
1st timers need as much of 16 oz as will go in there.
Smoke is exhaust temp related- read my many post on the subject
Also 16 oz in 1/2 tank of gas is going to give best results with that method
I didnt check the pics in this diy- as long as you found a metal nipple going directly into the intake manifold or the Throttle Body area- thats it
You can tell because it has a small squeze clamp on the hose! and 20 inches of vac!!