DIY for 745 side markers
03-13-2004, 02:03 PM
#1
DIY for 745 side markers
Mods, can you sticky this somewhere for a while?
BMW 745i/iL Side marker DIY Install Guide by Darkshear
03/13/04
Summary:
This DIY will help guide you through installing the BMW 745i/iL side markers on your TL. Please be aware that due to the nature of this type of modification, it is recommended that you consider having this professionally done to avoid any mistakes. This is a very volatile procedure and requires patience, experience with the tools used, and a hefty set of balls.
DISCLAIMER:
Obviously, due to the nature of this type of mod, I cannot be held responsible for errors made by myself, or by you. The measurements, tools, and methods I used here worked for me, and worked well. They may not be the fastest, most efficient, or even the proper ways to do this, but the result for me was perfect. If you have ANY doubt you can do this, don’t continue reading this.
ESTIMATED TIME:
Approx 1 to 1 ½ hour PER marker.
PARTS NEEDED:
These are the BMW part numbers for the stuff you need:
Clear side markers (they include the amber bulbs):
(1) 63-13-6-906-393
(1) 63-13-6-906-394
Wires:
(2) 61-13-0-006-665
(2) 61-13-0-005-199
Plug Housing:
(2) 61-13-8-365-340
TOOLS NEEDED:
1: Dremmel
2: Metal cutting discs for the dremmel
3: Carbide Cutter for dremmel
4: 10mm wrench
5: Flat head screwdriver
6: large nose pliers
7: Sharpie marker
8: 4 Tap-in clips
9: A drill with a very sharp bit
10: A metal file
11: 4 or 5 feet of extra wire
12: 4 “butt connectors” or equivalent
13: A car jack
14: At least 1 cold beer, 2 recommended.
Step 1:
Begin by measuring and marking where it is that you are going to cut. I used a sharpie to mark my cutting area.
The holes dimensions are as follows:
The holes are 13/16” from the fender line.
The larger hole is 1 ¾” from the fender/door line.
The larger hole is 1 5/16” long, and 9/16 tall.
The smaller hole is 1 9/16” from the larger hole.
The smaller hole 7/16 long, 4/16 tall.
Refer to the image for a better example:
CAUTION:
Since the 745 side markers have a very thin gasket, cutting these holes even 1/16” too large will result in water leakage, visible cut marks when the markers are on the car, and the side marker will be loose. I recommend cutting slightly below your marks and using the carbide cutter to slowly and gradually open the hole up to where it needs to be. If you over cut, your screwed.
Step 2:
After marking the outline of your holes, use the metal cutting disc on the dremmel to cut out the majority of your large hole. For the smaller hole, use the drill bit to create a hole large enough to use the carbide cutter tool to widen the hole. After your holes are created, use the carbide cutting tool on your dremmel to fine tune the holes. Make them just barley large enough to fit the side markers. As said before, there’s no room for error, so go SLOW!!! I would even recommend shaving the plastic on the side marker before experimenting with widening the holes. When you’re done, it should look something like this:
CAUTION:
Make DAMN sure you get all the metal shavings, some large, some very very small, off the body panels. It takes about 12 hours for them to rust in to the body panel and fuck up your paint.
Step 3:
Use the metal file to smooth out the holes, especially the side where the metal clip on the side marker is. This will allow easy removal and installation of the side marker.
Step 4:
Assemble the wires to the plug housing, this is pretty straight forward and should be easy. Since the wires are not longest than 12 inches, you will need to use your extra wire laying around to lengthen them, so that they will reach the headlights. I used butt connectors to lengthen the wires. Insert the wire in to the larger hole, and direct the wire over the top of the wheel well splash guard. This was fairly easy for me as the wire I used was fairly flexible and heavy so I was able to do it without removing the wheel well splash guards. Hang the connecter off to the side like so:
Step 5:
Jack the car up, and remove the corner splash guard. There are 2 clips, and 1 10mm bolt holding the guard to bumper. Use the flat head screwdriver to remove the clips, but be careful because old clips are very brittle and can break very easily. This will allow you access to the wire you just tossed up front, and access to the headlight turn signal wiring.
BMW 745i/iL Side marker DIY Install Guide by Darkshear
03/13/04
Summary:
This DIY will help guide you through installing the BMW 745i/iL side markers on your TL. Please be aware that due to the nature of this type of modification, it is recommended that you consider having this professionally done to avoid any mistakes. This is a very volatile procedure and requires patience, experience with the tools used, and a hefty set of balls.
DISCLAIMER:
Obviously, due to the nature of this type of mod, I cannot be held responsible for errors made by myself, or by you. The measurements, tools, and methods I used here worked for me, and worked well. They may not be the fastest, most efficient, or even the proper ways to do this, but the result for me was perfect. If you have ANY doubt you can do this, don’t continue reading this.
ESTIMATED TIME:
Approx 1 to 1 ½ hour PER marker.
PARTS NEEDED:
These are the BMW part numbers for the stuff you need:
Clear side markers (they include the amber bulbs):
(1) 63-13-6-906-393
(1) 63-13-6-906-394
Wires:
(2) 61-13-0-006-665
(2) 61-13-0-005-199
Plug Housing:
(2) 61-13-8-365-340
TOOLS NEEDED:
1: Dremmel
2: Metal cutting discs for the dremmel
3: Carbide Cutter for dremmel
4: 10mm wrench
5: Flat head screwdriver
6: large nose pliers
7: Sharpie marker
8: 4 Tap-in clips
9: A drill with a very sharp bit
10: A metal file
11: 4 or 5 feet of extra wire
12: 4 “butt connectors” or equivalent
13: A car jack
14: At least 1 cold beer, 2 recommended.
Step 1:
Begin by measuring and marking where it is that you are going to cut. I used a sharpie to mark my cutting area.
The holes dimensions are as follows:
The holes are 13/16” from the fender line.
The larger hole is 1 ¾” from the fender/door line.
The larger hole is 1 5/16” long, and 9/16 tall.
The smaller hole is 1 9/16” from the larger hole.
The smaller hole 7/16 long, 4/16 tall.
Refer to the image for a better example:
CAUTION:
Since the 745 side markers have a very thin gasket, cutting these holes even 1/16” too large will result in water leakage, visible cut marks when the markers are on the car, and the side marker will be loose. I recommend cutting slightly below your marks and using the carbide cutter to slowly and gradually open the hole up to where it needs to be. If you over cut, your screwed.
Step 2:
After marking the outline of your holes, use the metal cutting disc on the dremmel to cut out the majority of your large hole. For the smaller hole, use the drill bit to create a hole large enough to use the carbide cutter tool to widen the hole. After your holes are created, use the carbide cutting tool on your dremmel to fine tune the holes. Make them just barley large enough to fit the side markers. As said before, there’s no room for error, so go SLOW!!! I would even recommend shaving the plastic on the side marker before experimenting with widening the holes. When you’re done, it should look something like this:
CAUTION:
Make DAMN sure you get all the metal shavings, some large, some very very small, off the body panels. It takes about 12 hours for them to rust in to the body panel and fuck up your paint.
Step 3:
Use the metal file to smooth out the holes, especially the side where the metal clip on the side marker is. This will allow easy removal and installation of the side marker.
Step 4:
Assemble the wires to the plug housing, this is pretty straight forward and should be easy. Since the wires are not longest than 12 inches, you will need to use your extra wire laying around to lengthen them, so that they will reach the headlights. I used butt connectors to lengthen the wires. Insert the wire in to the larger hole, and direct the wire over the top of the wheel well splash guard. This was fairly easy for me as the wire I used was fairly flexible and heavy so I was able to do it without removing the wheel well splash guards. Hang the connecter off to the side like so:
Step 5:
Jack the car up, and remove the corner splash guard. There are 2 clips, and 1 10mm bolt holding the guard to bumper. Use the flat head screwdriver to remove the clips, but be careful because old clips are very brittle and can break very easily. This will allow you access to the wire you just tossed up front, and access to the headlight turn signal wiring.
03-13-2004, 02:05 PM
#2
Step 6:
Get under there and remove the turn signal bulb. This is done by turning the bulb housing counter-clockwise, and then it just pops out. I used tap-in connectors to tap the wiring for this bulb. At this point, you have to decide wither you want the side markers to flash along with your signals, or to stay illuminated with your parking lights. Since the 745 side marker bulb is a single filament, you can’t have both.
For turn signal operation, tap the Black and Green/Blue wire.
For parking light operation, tap the black and red wire.
I tapped the black and green, for turn signal operation:
Step 7:
Reinstall the bulb in to the housing of the headlight, this is a given. Simply put it in the socket, and turn clockwise until locked.
Replace the bumper splash guard to the way you found it, this is also pretty obvious.
Step 8:
Attach the side marker to its new wiring harness, and install the side markers. This is done by inserting the small notch on the side marker in to the small hole, then pushing the side marker in to the larger hold, where the metal clip with “snap in” and secure the side marker.
If you need to remove the side marker to fine tune this operation, grab it and pull, hard
CAUTION:
Fine tuning this can be deceiving. The markers fit a very special way, so if your having issues getting it in there and you decide to shave a little off one of the holes, quadruped check that your shaving the right place. If you shave that small hole too much, the side marker will be loose.
And here’s your finished product!
If you made it this far, and everything looks good, congrats!!!! In some cases, some people have insulated the side marker with silicone or equivalent to prevent rusting and water leakage on the body panel. I would highly recommend this, as rust will happen very quickly!!!
03-13-2004, 03:24 PM
#4
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Hey do you have any pics from farther away. I wanna see what they look like.
How did you decide on where to mount them? I keep changing my mind, and as you know, it's not something you can change later.
How did you decide on where to mount them? I keep changing my mind, and as you know, it's not something you can change later.
03-13-2004, 07:08 PM
#6
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Darkshear-
i am totally jealous of you right now. that mod looks awesome on your car and it looks like you did a great job on the install as well. i wish i had the balls to cut those holes in my fenders but you got me a little nervous about being 1/16 th off.
anyway, 2 thumbs up to you and thanks for the diy.
i am totally jealous of you right now. that mod looks awesome on your car and it looks like you did a great job on the install as well. i wish i had the balls to cut those holes in my fenders but you got me a little nervous about being 1/16 th off.
anyway, 2 thumbs up to you and thanks for the diy.
03-13-2004, 10:41 PM
#7
i didnt have the balls either, then i figured, hell, worst thing that could happen is that i fuck up and need a new fender. not like the car would explode. but now i know how to do it, and this car has been all about the learning process from the start...
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03-14-2004, 03:26 AM
#9
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F"N A man!!! If my car wasn't leased I would do this hands down!! I like looking stock but not being stock, and this mod accomplishes nothing but that!!! Great JOB!!!
03-14-2004, 04:51 PM
#14
Senior Moderator
mant that looks great! very good write up on it! 
03-17-2004, 12:26 AM
#24
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i wonder how easy it would be to change the bulb if it goes out 
and did you use some adhesion to prevent water from getting in? props for being brave having good measurements and a steady dremel hand
and did you use some adhesion to prevent water from getting in? props for being brave having good measurements and a steady dremel hand
03-17-2004, 09:22 AM
#26
Originally posted by erik
i wonder how easy it would be to change the bulb if it goes out and did you use some adhesion to prevent water from getting in? props for being brave having good measurements and a steady dremel hand
i wonder how easy it would be to change the bulb if it goes out
and did you use some adhesion to prevent water from getting in? props for being brave having good measurements and a steady dremel hand
but if it does die, i can simply jack up the car and remove the wheel well splash guard and change the bulb then. no biggie.
And my hand wasnt so steady
twice while using the carbite cutter, the bit lost its grip and bounced around the small hole, tearing it up. scared the shit out of me. but the hole was still under the "tweaking" stage so all was ok.
10-16-2004, 06:32 AM
#29
Thanks guys! Appreciate the compliment! Glad I could help people... makes me feel special ::sniffle sniffle::: ehehheheh
Just in case anyone wants it:
DIY in PDF
Just in case anyone wants it:
DIY in PDF
The following users liked this post:
Darkshear (03-02-2018)
10-16-2004, 09:50 AM
#32
Senior Moderator
and mine!
10-16-2004, 01:12 PM
#34
woooo!!
Originally Posted by DarkDJ
yeah DarkShear, when u gonna come over and do my sidemarkers?
Originally Posted by fsttmys1
and mine!
Originally Posted by spl1011
ooh ohhh... Me too!! lol...
10-17-2004, 10:26 AM
#37
Originally Posted by Dark DJ
yeah DarkShear, when u gonna come over and do my sidemarkers?
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
and mine!
Originally Posted by spl1011
ooh ohhh... Me too!! lol...
ahahah well DarkDJ is in Cali, so ill do his no problem... Kris, your in fucking wisconsin so your S.O.L.!!! ehhehe and spl1011, you bring the beer and the dremel and ill do it for ya
:P:P:P:P:P
