Did some work on my 03 tl-p.
10-16-2015, 06:33 AM
#1
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Did some work on my 03 tl-p.
I have been a long time lurker but never made an account so this is y first post. I have a 2003 tl-p that I bought at 170k miles for 1500 from my father and he did all his own maintenance( oil changes, timing belt and spark plugs awhile back). Ran just fine original transmission( no blue bolt and survived 180k now). Recently has been misfiring occasionally so I decided since its been about 100k miles since its last tuneup I would do some work on it. First thing I did was look at the timing belt and it still looks new so maybe he did that more recently than I thought. I decided a few days ago I would do a valve adjustment on it since it was never adjusted even til now. The most mechanical work I had was installing a turbo into a da9 integra however it was mostly just bolt ons.
Since I was taking off the intake manifold to get to the valves I cleaned out the egr passage ways and replaced the spark plugs. 180k miles with no valve adjustment was a little scary. Got everything apart and took the 2 valve covers off and saw the front one was almost factory new looking. The front cylinders really only had 2 loose valves on intake side and the exhaust side had 1. The back side of the engine was a different story. The inside of the cover was burnt amber from burning oil so I knew something was wrong there. Sure enough all exhaust valves were too tight and cylinder 1 and 2 intakes were too loose. But oddly... Cylinder 3 intake valves were WAYYY too tight.
Adjusted everything to spec and slapped her back together, reset ecu and took her for a spin to the gas station. Let me tell you I had a buddy in the car with me when we went to the gas station and we got sucked into the seats when I gave it a little gas. I had the biggest grin on my face and he was even surprised at the difference compared to before. I have never been happier working on a car and the car feels so smooth now. It purrs like a kitten and I'm sure it hasn't been this healthy in a long time. Feels like a brand new car.
I have some pictures however I'm posting from mobile so I am not sure how to post them.
Since I was taking off the intake manifold to get to the valves I cleaned out the egr passage ways and replaced the spark plugs. 180k miles with no valve adjustment was a little scary. Got everything apart and took the 2 valve covers off and saw the front one was almost factory new looking. The front cylinders really only had 2 loose valves on intake side and the exhaust side had 1. The back side of the engine was a different story. The inside of the cover was burnt amber from burning oil so I knew something was wrong there. Sure enough all exhaust valves were too tight and cylinder 1 and 2 intakes were too loose. But oddly... Cylinder 3 intake valves were WAYYY too tight.
Adjusted everything to spec and slapped her back together, reset ecu and took her for a spin to the gas station. Let me tell you I had a buddy in the car with me when we went to the gas station and we got sucked into the seats when I gave it a little gas. I had the biggest grin on my face and he was even surprised at the difference compared to before. I have never been happier working on a car and the car feels so smooth now. It purrs like a kitten and I'm sure it hasn't been this healthy in a long time. Feels like a brand new car.
I have some pictures however I'm posting from mobile so I am not sure how to post them.
10-16-2015, 11:11 AM
#3
good job! Just to make sure you caught the various threads with important information:
You did use the correct $8 each NGK spark plugs?
and the egr passage and ports INSIDE the length of the intake manifold-
you removed the egr valve to reveal the 2 openings- and poked a wire coat hanger, lubricated by 3 cans of carb cleaner- thru the entire passage until cleared.
So it was clear from the 2 holes THRU inside passage to the far end of manifold and larger exit port.
Plus each cylinder has an EGR port that gunks up
Next project to complete your major service:
To clean the fuel system and remove carbon buildup that is certain to exist on the piston tops and intake valves,
Buy 2 cans of Seafoam -Walmart has for $7some and Oreillys had it for close to that on sale.
Add 1st can to just under half tank = 8 gallons , for a 2 oz per gal fuel mix
Thats max allowed cleaning strength
Drive however you want!!
When next tank is down to 8 gallons- add the 2nd can to gas tank
Drive as desired. Heat and Time are seafoams friends- trips over 30 minutes work best
This 2 can method is direct from Seafoams tech guy Jim D. as the best way to do it.
Did you clean the Throttle Body air inlet plate? needs both sides done, carb cleaner and rag required! toothbrush helps severe cases
Access from bottom of TB is the IACV rod- Idle Air Control- another place that needs degunking or idle gets erratic
Regardless of oil change history, add seafoam to oil just before next change
1/2 can to oil and drive 30 minutes, drain oil while warm
You did use the correct $8 each NGK spark plugs?
and the egr passage and ports INSIDE the length of the intake manifold-
you removed the egr valve to reveal the 2 openings- and poked a wire coat hanger, lubricated by 3 cans of carb cleaner- thru the entire passage until cleared.
So it was clear from the 2 holes THRU inside passage to the far end of manifold and larger exit port.
Plus each cylinder has an EGR port that gunks up
Next project to complete your major service:
To clean the fuel system and remove carbon buildup that is certain to exist on the piston tops and intake valves,
Buy 2 cans of Seafoam -Walmart has for $7some and Oreillys had it for close to that on sale.
Add 1st can to just under half tank = 8 gallons , for a 2 oz per gal fuel mix
Thats max allowed cleaning strength
Drive however you want!!
When next tank is down to 8 gallons- add the 2nd can to gas tank
Drive as desired. Heat and Time are seafoams friends- trips over 30 minutes work best
This 2 can method is direct from Seafoams tech guy Jim D. as the best way to do it.
Did you clean the Throttle Body air inlet plate? needs both sides done, carb cleaner and rag required! toothbrush helps severe cases
Access from bottom of TB is the IACV rod- Idle Air Control- another place that needs degunking or idle gets erratic
Regardless of oil change history, add seafoam to oil just before next change
1/2 can to oil and drive 30 minutes, drain oil while warm
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 10-16-2015 at 11:15 AM.
10-17-2015, 10:36 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
good job! Just to make sure you caught the various threads with important information:
You did use the correct $8 each NGK spark plugs? Yes
the egr passage and ports INSIDE the length of the intake manifold Yes
you removed the egr valve to reveal the 2 openings- and poked a wire coat hanger, lubricated by 3 cans of carb cleaner- thru the entire passage until cleared.
So it was clear from the 2 holes THRU inside passage to the far end of manifold and larger exit port.
Plus each cylinder has an EGR port that gunks up. Yes
Next project to complete your major service:
To clean the fuel system and remove carbon buildup that is certain to exist on the piston tops and intake valves,
When next tank is down to 8 gallons- add the 2nd can to gas tank
Drive as desired. Heat and Time are seafoams friends- trips over 30 minutes work best
This 2 can method is direct from Seafoams tech guy Jim D. as the best way to do it. Already done last week
Did you clean the Throttle Body air inlet plate? No
needs both sides done, carb cleaner and rag required! toothbrush helps severe cases
Access from bottom of TB is the IACV rod- Idle Air Control- another place that needs degunking or idle gets erratic
Regardless of oil change history, add seafoam to oil just before next change
1/2 can to oil and drive 30 minutes, drain oil while warm. Did this on my last change but may do it again
You did use the correct $8 each NGK spark plugs? Yes
the egr passage and ports INSIDE the length of the intake manifold Yes
you removed the egr valve to reveal the 2 openings- and poked a wire coat hanger, lubricated by 3 cans of carb cleaner- thru the entire passage until cleared.
So it was clear from the 2 holes THRU inside passage to the far end of manifold and larger exit port.
Plus each cylinder has an EGR port that gunks up. Yes
Next project to complete your major service:
To clean the fuel system and remove carbon buildup that is certain to exist on the piston tops and intake valves,
When next tank is down to 8 gallons- add the 2nd can to gas tank
Drive as desired. Heat and Time are seafoams friends- trips over 30 minutes work best
This 2 can method is direct from Seafoams tech guy Jim D. as the best way to do it. Already done last week
Did you clean the Throttle Body air inlet plate? No
needs both sides done, carb cleaner and rag required! toothbrush helps severe casesAccess from bottom of TB is the IACV rod- Idle Air Control- another place that needs degunking or idle gets erratic
Regardless of oil change history, add seafoam to oil just before next change
1/2 can to oil and drive 30 minutes, drain oil while warm. Did this on my last change but may do it again
10-18-2015, 10:05 AM
#6
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For reference was your rear valves stained vs the fronts? like this: https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-today-895906/
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