orgnlprankster7

can it be done? and can any ol place do it?

denverdandb

sure, if you want some unreliable, dangerous brakes. Buy some slotter crossdrilled ones instead, doing it yourself or to rotors not designed to be drilled or slotted usually causes the discs to crack or chip or explode when your going fast. Just take a hit in the wallet and do it right. on the other hand, im sure theres someone out there irresponsible enough to do it for you, at a nominal fee too.

CL-S6

iTrader: (3)

If you read his sig healready has cross drilled and slotted roters, EBC Rotors. I think he wantsto know if he could cut them when they get warped/worn. yes it can be done but alot of shops wont do it. you gotta ask around or make phone calls to your local shops.

fsttyms1

You mean having them turned? If so yes it can, many places wont or dont have the equipment to. Call around and ask.

CL-S6

iTrader: (3)

Thats the word I was looking for in my reply... lol

orgnlprankster7

lol yea not cut turned. ill call around,hopefully it will just last me till i get some good racingbrake rotors. EBC rotors suck, they are loud as hell and only have 6k miles on them and are warping

01tl4tl

Thats pretty unusual to warp at 6k
Are you sure thats the problem and not the pads

OR- as just happened to my car:
While installing new pads and rotors recently, used correct tool
to retract caliper piston -heres where it went bad-
SHOULD have cleaned the outer piston surface BEFORE I retracted it.
Some junk from outside got inside and a few k miles later I get a
steering wheel shake on braking over 45mph.
Inspected RF rotor and saw the wear was not equal across the face of rotor
Pulled caliper, replaced $45, Re- grease every moving part/contact area of caliper to pad- and even back side of wheel, Bleed Brakes, Everything test ok at low speed
Wait till cover of darknes- and did the high speed pad re-bed to deglaze, and take off the small ridge that had formed on outer edge of Hawk HPS pad.

Problem solved

01tl4tl

That also means this weekends project is to pull the other calipers and clean, inspect and re-grease
Some of us put a lot of wear on parts, I got the $10 tub of synthetic caliper grease- might as well do all the cars as post winter maintenance.

orgnlprankster7

i know its not the pads because they have about 1k on them, i replaced the shitty ones that came with the rotors orignialy, prostop or somthin. it very well could be the caliper since the brake fluid wasnt changed as often as it should have been, and i pushed the piston back with my hand(i guess i shouldnt have done that) i have been looking at the legend calipers, i just hvae to go to napa and see if they have them. i figure i will just get the legend calipers some quality rotors and pads all around(im still runiing horibly warped stock rears) and then flush with some valvoline synthetic fluid and ill be set for summer

01tl4tl

While you are at NAPA- buy the rear rotors and install them- the American made ones not the imports, under $20 each and AAA members get discount
Hawk HPS pads are at Pepboys

I dont know for sure which caused the problem- the never been flushed before brake fluid dislodged something bad- (that I am happy to have out of the system,) or the debris from outside got inside. Either way, a caliper fixed it!

The Legend/NSX dual piston calipers sound fun- maybe when I get the SS brake lines

denverdandb

Still highly unreccommended. Cross drilled and or slotted rotors are usually designed for that specific application. (Ive seen this in the forums other places) and drilling holes or slotting them compromises the integrity of the single piece of metal (rotors) we're talking about. Usually, (most hopefully) slotted or drilled rotors come consructed of a single part, which is forged or molded as is, nothing is removed except for slag. Rotors which have been slotted or drilled after manufacturing usually suffer from cracking or fragmenting (fragmenting = going fast enough or stopping hard enough to shatter, crack or explode your rotors, however highly unlikely that is.) the same reason that SCCA and NHRA include scatter shield rules for some parts (I.E. clutch, brakes on some cars...), how would you like that blasting apart at 6000 rpm and splintering your legs, or some unlucky spectator (Or, gasp, the person you were racing against!). Im not saying you shouldn't do it, but work within the constraints of your budget and be safe at the same time. I've seen crappy rotors and clutches blow up, they peirce engine blocks just as well as they seek out people around the car, when they go they take out the wheel around them and usually cause general mayhem (depending on how fast you're going, but would you want to have the experience anyway? I think not!)

My terribly drawn out explaination aside, just do you and your pocketbook a favor and buy brakes and parts you know to be good, or better!
-p

EDIT: Having them turned will cost far less, and you should get some good mileage out of them. Tolerances will get low, but you should get fair life out of them afterwards. just to play the devils advocate, i'd say spring for some new ones instead.