dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

It took about 4 cans of trottle body cleaner.....OK My car still has rough idle!!!!!! I have new Mounts to.... WTF is wrong with my TL.....

orgnlprankster7

have you changed your spark plugs?

HittingDaLine

what are the miles on the car?

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

i have NGK Iridium IX and replaced them about 3k miles ago..... I ahve 98k on the car...

6spMike

Vacuum leak somewhere.

csmeance

just throwing a guess out, but what about the airfilter? How long ago did you change it? What gas have you been using? Also what type of Oil? Did you put seafoam though a vacum line, gas and/or oil?

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Double checked the vac line, A ok.

Filter KN filter just cleaned it out. Also had a AEM intake.
Changed oil to Mobil 1 with fram Extended guard 1k miles ago
the only gas i use is Shell V power
Once a month a can of seafoam in gas tank and every 3 month through the vac line.

joseph_99tl

u messed up the IAC valve.
it is not supposed to get wet.
did you remove the iac valve before cleaning.
it has a little motor in it.
i bet a buck it's the IAC valve.
replace it.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Yes I took off. Also I only cleaned everything with throttle body cleaner. No water.

orgnlprankster7

you didnt wash everything out? i had to spray a hose in every port for a while to get all the standing TB cleaner and carbon buildup out from the places you can see

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

wouldnt messing the valve up cause the check engine. and also isnt there always coolant circulating through there anyways.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

ok i did a search on other people with idle problems. I seen a lot bad coil threads. Now my question with a bad coil wouldnt the idle be rough enough to throw a CEL. I feel vibration through the seats and steering only. And sometimes its smooth and other times it gets rough, especially with the AC on.

fsttyms1

OUr motors produce come erratic vibration to begin with so some is normal. Even though you replaced your plugs its possible one is bad or not gapped properly. Plus when the AC kicks in you will feel it. It throws a quick big strain on the motor and will cause more of a rough idle. It could be a bad mount(one you didnt replace?)

And no coolant doesnt run through the IAC. It runs Through the Throttle Body in coolant passages. Not the IAC

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

I went ahead and took everything apart today. I am at home and since there is a garage I can really get the cleaning done, and also I decieded on ekeeping the Theroblocks and intalling them.

Going to clean the hell out of everything including the throttle body and all.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

OK so 3 to 4 hours total, with 9 cans of throttle body cleaner, My car does feel smoother. I took a tooth brush and cleaned the throttle body. I also instaled the Thermoblocks. So far all is good, but the idle is not the smoothest but better. Anyways the TL is going to be staying at home all week, so I will be drivnig the TSX around.

I hate this Mod-bug that keeps biting.

fsttyms1

Have you reset the ECU and done the Re-Learn procedure?

01tl4tl

dnd

I would suggest checking the amout of oil you put on the air filter - its easy to over apply- the can does 5 recharges!
And respray the throttle body just in case it pulled some excess oil from the filter- stranger things have happened.

Even new parts fail- its worth looking at the plugs to get a reading

On my TL I replaced the seafoam vac line- it was slightly swollen where it gets dipped in the can. Even taking it loose once can cause a loose seal at the plastic fitting- easy to replace hose with the engine cover off. Then the old school test for vac leaks with a can of carb cleaner- spray suspected connection and listen for idle speed change- if it does, you found a leak

Good Luck

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

issnt this done by unhookin the battery for 30 mins? If not could you point me in the right direction

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

with the Kn and AEM CAI the idle was same.

I checked the vac line and it looks fine visually. I am so glad I cleaned everything at home. Acura was going to charge me $300 for just cleaning.

BUT i do think the part of the vac line that I use to sea foam might be a lil looser.

01tl4tl

visually fine hahahahahahahahah

Spend 2 bucks and replace the suspect line first!

dro_15

can anyone hook me up with the link to clean out the EGR... thanks

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I have it saved. It's a 4 page PDF but I don't remember where I got it from. Do a search and you should find it.

fsttyms1

Go to the DIY sticky on the first page in 2GTL and its in there

dro_15

thanks will do....

AgenaBluTL-S

what is the EGR ?

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

OK some dude around here just got a 2001 CLs with 113k miles on it for $10k. So he asked me to check it out. This car does idle a LOT smoother than mine still. After I change the vac line what eles is left?

fsttyms1

Exhaust Gas Recirculation

fsttyms1

well if you have done every thing we have said maybe its time for a professional (dealer) to look at it.

Its possible 1 plug is bad, or not gapped correctly. Did you double check the gap of each one before install? Maybe buy 1 new plug and 1 coil pack and go 1 cyl at a time and replace both plug and coil and start teh car to see if it makes a difference. If not remove and move to the next cyl.

PenguinQX

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the stupid Q, but what's considered "rough idle"?

Tom Blasing

DP suggestion

Tom Blasing

Or just disconnect the primary lead to each cyl and see if the rough idle gets worse.

fsttyms1

Yea but that may make it even worse and harder to tell which it is. If its a slight vibration and not throwing a missfire code it may be better to just do the one at a time and see if it smooths it out.

fsttyms1

Any thing not smooth or where you can feel the engine stumble, idle

AgenaBluTL-S

so would you suggested me to clean the egr and the throttle body just got my car its a 02 tl-s with 33k original miles? what should I do for my first maintainace thanks

Tom Blasing

I did say to reconnect the leads to the cyl that DOES change the idle. I'm not saying to disconnect the leads and LEAVE them disconnected and go on to the next cyl. That would be ludicrous.

It's the same as your dentist finding a "dead" tooth with an electrical shock. If you don't jump, there's a problem.

fsttyms1

I know that but what im saying is that if its not a misfire now that method will be drastic and he wont be able to tell which one it is because they will all do it. He just has a slight vibration which may be just a plug thats not gapped right or a coil thats wearing out. He has no problem once driving. Thats why just changing out 1 plug at a time or 1 coil pack at a time will tell you if thats actually the problem when you have a very slight vibration. It may not be spark related at all since he didnt say that he is getting a missfire code or the cel to flash when giving it gas. It may be timing off, a bearing, something internal not balanced, or something slightly bent, May be the trans torque converter or possibly a mount (even though you have new ones its possible that one is bad already or that you didnt replace all of them and that one that wasnt is causing the vibration). Every thing needs to be addresses and checked. Hell it may even be normal???
I would start out with one NEW plug and coil gapped properly and work my way around to see if that makes a difference.

VWNOWHONDA

sounds like possible a bad coil pack, but not bad enough to cause a CEL yet, when you rev the motor in neutral do you hear any detonation or pinging