clayed & NXTed, but still have scratches
#1
Instructor
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clayed & NXTed, but still have scratches
I need detailer help!! Man, I clayed my car for first time ever yesterday and it worked so awesome at getting the grime off. I put one coat of NXT on, but I still have scratches in straight horizontal lines going down the car...Do I need this thing buffed or something? I want my shine like I see others on this board gettin!!! It feels smooth as hell but I can still see the light scratch. pissin me off too.
JG
JG
#2
Intermediate
Join Date: Apr 2004
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yea, you need to buff out the car with rubbing compound and then after that you need to use finishing compound and buff it also... if you have any other question just post it....
#3
2400 Watts in a TL...Why?
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register at www.autotopia.com they have a "professional detailing" section in thier forum, to discuss techniques, and there was a "product discussion" section as well discussions on all of the products talked about here plus tons more - all the way up to thousands of dollars for wax.
All different car owners too, from Civics and EL's all the was up to Ferraris and Classic Cars.
All different car owners too, from Civics and EL's all the was up to Ferraris and Classic Cars.
#5
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I would think polish/clay/wax. You are supposed to remove your wax coat when applying the clay bar. The polish also removes waxes and finishes(clay), as well as a very thin layer of clearcoat paint. The clay bar meerly fills in very minor paint scuffs and voids with clay while picking up debris.
The philosophy, gents, is to remove AS LITTLE PAINT AS NECESSARY! Rubbing compound is harsh - very harsh! For fine lines, polishing compound and a buffer that prevents burning is the best. Fine lines, that can show up like spider web looking shiny streaks, can be easily removed with a light polishing compound.
For little scratches and touch-ups (like someone scraped a ring or jewlery on the side), that is deep that you can feel with your finger nail, I have used a like using a 2000 grit sand paper and wet sand (and I mean really wet!) the area very gently and with as little area and removal as possible. Then you can buff it to a shine with a polishing compund (not a rubbing compound), then wax.
Remember, a little goes a long way!
The philosophy, gents, is to remove AS LITTLE PAINT AS NECESSARY! Rubbing compound is harsh - very harsh! For fine lines, polishing compound and a buffer that prevents burning is the best. Fine lines, that can show up like spider web looking shiny streaks, can be easily removed with a light polishing compound.
For little scratches and touch-ups (like someone scraped a ring or jewlery on the side), that is deep that you can feel with your finger nail, I have used a like using a 2000 grit sand paper and wet sand (and I mean really wet!) the area very gently and with as little area and removal as possible. Then you can buff it to a shine with a polishing compund (not a rubbing compound), then wax.
Remember, a little goes a long way!
#6
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Here is the link on AutoUtopia on how to remove swirl marks and water spots. http://www.autopia-carcare.com/autopia/inf-swirls.html
It is wash with dawn (although some think dawn should never be on a car), clay bar,another wash, polish (heavy->fine, depending on finish), sealer, wax.
There are some polish/sealers/wax combo's like NXT that do a great job. NXT will only remove very very light scratches in the clear coat though.
claying does not cover up scratches it picks up foreign stuff in the clear coat.
It is wash with dawn (although some think dawn should never be on a car), clay bar,another wash, polish (heavy->fine, depending on finish), sealer, wax.
There are some polish/sealers/wax combo's like NXT that do a great job. NXT will only remove very very light scratches in the clear coat though.
claying does not cover up scratches it picks up foreign stuff in the clear coat.
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