Check engine light got 2 codes
#1
Check engine light got 2 codes
I just purchased a 03' tl with 212k runs excellent,after a few days of driving the check engine came on I went to auto parts store they got 2 codes p1457 and p1740. The p1740 is the trans pressure switch, I checked the fluid and it was pretty brownish but didn't smell burnt. The trans shifty smoothly and has no slips or hard shifts and the trans was part of the Auto trans 2nd gear Campaign according to Acura.com. Any ideas on what is happening or will happen ?? Thanks
#2
kill you till you die
Take it back to where you bought it and question them, they may have reset the ECU so the CEL would disappear until driven enough miles to return. If you don't think thats the case, brown fluid is no good either way. Get some HONDA fluid and swap it out.
#3
its not good news but may not be that bad~
First thing is to do a fluid change with honda dw-1 atf,,from honda dealer (acura charges more for exact same stuff)
you can do a manual method of drain and refill, or if a diy person there is an engine running method
or, the acura dealer has a special procedure and machine that will get all the old stuff out and not hurt the trans in the process
Fluid is reddish when good
at the same time: pressure switch aka shift selenoid can be cleaned or replaced there are 2 we commonly deal with
see our DIY section (3rd item down main list) for help
and a weird one- the egr port and passage system clogs up and needs cleanout every 75kmiles,,(2 hour diy)
will go longer but effects running and may cause freaky codes for trans prob --
when there is none!!
First thing is to do a fluid change with honda dw-1 atf,,from honda dealer (acura charges more for exact same stuff)
you can do a manual method of drain and refill, or if a diy person there is an engine running method
or, the acura dealer has a special procedure and machine that will get all the old stuff out and not hurt the trans in the process
Fluid is reddish when good
at the same time: pressure switch aka shift selenoid can be cleaned or replaced there are 2 we commonly deal with
see our DIY section (3rd item down main list) for help
and a weird one- the egr port and passage system clogs up and needs cleanout every 75kmiles,,(2 hour diy)
will go longer but effects running and may cause freaky codes for trans prob --
when there is none!!
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 01-02-2012 at 06:42 PM.
#4
the 2nd gear recall has nothing to do with our main issue- weak oiling to 2nd and 3rd gear clutches causes early failure
question--do you have proof the `every 105kmiles service` with new timing belt and water pump was done at 210? gets new spark plugs and valve adjust on this one for sure,, as most dont bother with valve adjust at 105
question--do you have proof the `every 105kmiles service` with new timing belt and water pump was done at 210? gets new spark plugs and valve adjust on this one for sure,, as most dont bother with valve adjust at 105
#5
I highly doubt the 2nd 105 service was done so I'm expecting to do it....I have a appointment at my local stealership next week to find out the cause of the codes and multi point inspection
#6
no reason for dealer to get involved
the code ck will cost 1.5 hours `diagnostic fee`= 125-150$ and all they tell you is what the codes mean according to the computer
(but codes are CLUES not diagnosis- a tech must put together all the info to figure out the problem),,, and they cant guarantee replacing certain parts will cure the problem!!!
that `free 28 point inspection` is worth exactly what you paid for it~
they visually ck for major problems that make them easy money yes, but you need a private shop to be your techs on this car = unless you like overpaying for things
We, the members of acurazine, can provide way better info than most shops
here you get the input of thousands of user experiences on the exact car you drive- what codes led to what repair, and can someone DIY the job easily
DIY section is written for the newest noob to be able to handle most jobs
leave it up to the dealer (during slowest time of the year and they need to make $$$$ off every job) and a service writer (a person who has never been a real tech in most cases, just good salesmen)
They will say those codes indicate imminent trans failure = $5000 please!!
We will tell you to replace (based on your miles) the 2 pressure switches and change out all the fluid--for that I might use dealer and their special atf change machine (made for the newer cars with trick trans systems)
NEVER use a regular trans shop and their machine- whch often run dextron3 fluid
= not good for TL trans~
Caution- the concern with a full 7.3 qt change is if crud is holding the clutches together--you just sealed its fate
but if that was the case.. it was going to happen anyway
Do you get any slippage when jumping on it full throttle and hold down?
as if getting on freeway with a semi breathing down your back,
from 25-35mph cruise speed in D5--stand on it
it should downshift cleanly and power up thru the gears- without rpm jump
Find a safe place you can test this 10 times in a row- 25 to 55mph
Dont do it until you have good fluid though!!
that heats the weak clutches- if they are bad it will show
DO replace the external trans filter along with the 2 pressure switches ~$125 in parts
iirc they are called 3 and 4th gear presure switch,,ck out diy section for help
the code ck will cost 1.5 hours `diagnostic fee`= 125-150$ and all they tell you is what the codes mean according to the computer
(but codes are CLUES not diagnosis- a tech must put together all the info to figure out the problem),,, and they cant guarantee replacing certain parts will cure the problem!!!
that `free 28 point inspection` is worth exactly what you paid for it~
they visually ck for major problems that make them easy money yes, but you need a private shop to be your techs on this car = unless you like overpaying for things
We, the members of acurazine, can provide way better info than most shops
here you get the input of thousands of user experiences on the exact car you drive- what codes led to what repair, and can someone DIY the job easily
DIY section is written for the newest noob to be able to handle most jobs
leave it up to the dealer (during slowest time of the year and they need to make $$$$ off every job) and a service writer (a person who has never been a real tech in most cases, just good salesmen)
They will say those codes indicate imminent trans failure = $5000 please!!
We will tell you to replace (based on your miles) the 2 pressure switches and change out all the fluid--for that I might use dealer and their special atf change machine (made for the newer cars with trick trans systems)
NEVER use a regular trans shop and their machine- whch often run dextron3 fluid
= not good for TL trans~
Caution- the concern with a full 7.3 qt change is if crud is holding the clutches together--you just sealed its fate
but if that was the case.. it was going to happen anyway
Do you get any slippage when jumping on it full throttle and hold down?
as if getting on freeway with a semi breathing down your back,
from 25-35mph cruise speed in D5--stand on it
it should downshift cleanly and power up thru the gears- without rpm jump
Find a safe place you can test this 10 times in a row- 25 to 55mph
Dont do it until you have good fluid though!!
that heats the weak clutches- if they are bad it will show
DO replace the external trans filter along with the 2 pressure switches ~$125 in parts
iirc they are called 3 and 4th gear presure switch,,ck out diy section for help
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 01-03-2012 at 11:22 AM.
The following users liked this post:
yeedatoy (01-03-2012)
#7
I called the Acura dealer where the car was serviced and the timing belt was done again at 205k and trans fluid was done at 180k. That could explain why the fluid is brown. I'm getting the fluid changed out and the codes checked Monday at my local dealer. $ 80 for trans fluid change and $120 to go thru the whole car including the code readout , I might just tell them to change both switches and fluid and thats it... Thanks for the advice 01tl4tl
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