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I have a 2002 TL with a 2008 TL tranny that was put in by the Acura dealer about 15 years ago, and it worked beautifully all these years. But recently, I thought that the transmission went out.
About 9 months ago, I was driving down the highway, and the transmission just slipped out of gear. I pushed the accelerator down, and it just acted like it was in neutral. The engine just revved. So I figured it might be just that one gear. So I shifted down. It was in gear for 5 to 10 seconds, and then slipped. I kept downshifting thinking it might just be certain gears. But all of the gears seemed to be having issues.
I was able to get it off the highway. I did have to stop at a light, and then I was able to drive the car a little bit more. But when I had to go up a hill, it started slipping a lot. So I just pulled over and had it towed.
It’s been sitting for the past 9 months. I recently revived it, bc I was going to sell it. But in the process of getting it ready for sale, I just thought I would try driving it up and down the driveway.
I was able to drive it up and down the driveway about 10 times before it started slipping (maybe it slips when it heats up?).
So based on what I just said, do you think it’s possible that I can just drain 3qt of ATF, and fill it, and have the car start working again like others on this forum have done? Do I need to change the filter as well?
Or do you think it needs a solenoid? If so, which one?
I have never changed the transmission fluid since I bought the car in 2007 with 60k miles on it. It now has 161k miles on it.
Btw, I did smell the transmission fluid right after the slipping event, and it did smell burnt.
My mechanic said he had a customer who changed their transmission fluid, and the transmission died a week later, bc he had not changed the transmission fluid in a long time. But I think he had a ATF flush done as well. So maybe the pressure from the flush caused the tranny to go kaput.
That’s why I never changed the ATF in my TL when my car was still working, bc I had not changed it since I bought the car, and based on what my mechanic said, I thought it might have messed it up. But based on what I have been reading, it might be the fix I’m looking for.
What’s a money light? Do you mean the check engine light? The check engine light is not on. The only warning light that’s on is the SRS light, which has to do with the air bags. That light has been on for a while.
What’s a money light? Do you mean the check engine light? The check engine light is not on.
Furthermore, one would think that with the encountered 'slipping' scenario(s) you outlined above, there would be, hopefully, a triggered check engine light with specific transmission related OBD codes to help point any diagnostic attempt in the right direction, for instance, like a 'solenoid' as you asked.
However, since the malfunction indicator light is not illuminated, as you confirm, it is very difficult to really know what is going on viewing 'text' over the internet.
Originally Posted by macselite
I have never changed the transmission fluid since I bought the car in 2007 with 60k miles on it. It now has 161k miles on it.
Btw, I did smell the transmission fluid right after the slipping event, and it did smell burnt.
I'm not trying to 'beat you up' here, just trying to understand you correctly, you never 'checked' the ATF level or regularly 'changed' / maintained the ATF based on what your mechanic said below?
My mechanic said he had a customer who changed their transmission fluid, and the transmission died a week later, bc he had not changed the transmission fluid in a long time.
Originally Posted by macselite
That’s why I never changed the ATF in my TL when my car was still working, bc I had not changed it since I bought the car, and based on what my mechanic said, I thought it might have messed it up. But based on what I have been reading, it might be the fix I’m looking for.
As a result, over 15 years & 100K miles later, the ATF is still the original fluid the dealer installed when the 2008 TL gearbox was transplanted in 2007 / 08 when you purchased the car from the Acura dealer?
That's incredible!
So, yeah. It would probably be a good idea, due to the lack of OBD codes, to attempt an ATF & filter change.
Though, I would do a 3X3 using Acura DW-1 ATF to get the majority of the current 'burnt' smelling ATF out.
For example: 9 Quarts for HONDA Automatic Transmission oil Fluid ATF DW1 Acura Sterling | eBay
Search around online for 082009008, you may find it a little cheaper,
P.S.
Try to get the SRS light fixed, as soon as possible, since you are / were driving around without an active airbag system.
That may be a 'good' thing, though, especially if you have not had the defective steering wheel airbag inflator replaced?
Since there are no warning lights, maybe what I did today will help. I just took it for a drive today, and for the first 7-10 min, it shifted and drove fine. But once it got up to temperature, it started slipping. And after a few more minutes, it would not engage in any gear at all. I tried all 5 gears. So I had to coast home.
If it had internal damage, wouldn’t it be slipping all of the time, and not just when it warmed up?
I never checked the level of the transmission fluid, nor did I ever change the transmission fluid. Yes, it’s the same fluid that the dealer put in when they replaced the 02 tranny with an 08 tranny back in 2007 / 08.
I know! After what I found out through my research, I’m amazed as well!
It’s not because of what my mechanic said that I didn’t replace the transmission fluid. It’s bc I didn’t know you were supposed to change it. I had another Acura a couple of cars before this one (it was an Integra), and that lasted for 212,000 miles without changing the transmission fluid.
I was thinking of doing the 3x3, but there are 2 schools of thought.
Doing a 3x3 will make it better
Since this is the same fluid that was put in back in 2007 / 08 by the dealer, it will be thicker and may have some metal particles in it (I didn’t see any on the dipstick), which will cause friction, which will help it to grip better and not slip. And when that’s replaced with fresh clean oil, and the metal particles are removed, it could make it slip more than it is now.
Thoughts?
Also, would Lucas Transmission fix help? I’ve heard that it could help, and I’ve heard it could make things worse.
Thanks for the links.
You’re right about getting the SRS light fixed. I just figured that it was the same as driving an older car that doesn’t have any airbags.
Your mechanic is an idiot. You will be lucky if a change in fluid fixes it but leaving the old fluid in only will continue to make the problems worse. Once the fluid starts to breakdown it heats up, once it heats up too high it starts to turn into a varnish that will cause seals to fail, clutch plates and metal plates to stick and slip, This starts when the fluid gets to about 240 F or so, depending on the specific formulation. I would change the fluid and do as DPO1TL recommended on the solenoids screens.
Adding anything other than the proper amount of transmission fludi is a waste of money unless you know your transmission is working.
Honestly, 100k isn't "life or death" for a transmission. As stated you should clean the internal solenoid screens, also change out the filter in the return line (side of the transmission) and change the fluid.
If it works good for a few days, THEN go ahead and add a supplemental product if you so wish. Honestly, LubeGuard red is well-known to be a "good" additive, so my personal suggestion would be that. No idea on teh Lucas product.
But, again, only clean screens, change filter and change the fluid to the proper fluid.
Just a thought:
I have an automatic '03 CL-S, it has a previous owner rebuilt factory transmission 'time bomb' currently installed.
If it was 'performing' like yours currently is, this is the DIY action plan I would approach in my drive way.
If you are a non-DIY type , then at least you'll have an idea of what's involved here in trying to salvage a slipping automatic over the internet.
Purchase all of the needed supplies to accomplish the job.
(Brake clean; minimum of nine quarts of DW-1 ATF; external filter et al.)
1) Run the car to operating temp. to heat the old transmission fluid, preferably limp it through the gears trying not to get stranded.
2) Drain the ATF (first indicator of possible damage) with the car on a level surface.
You already confirmed it smelled 'burnt', how does it look in the drain pan?
Once you remove the magnetic drain bolt, you will observe (second indicator) how much metal clutch pack debris will be present. Take a picture, post it in this thread.
3) While ATF is draining, thoroughly clean (third indicator) all solenoid screens as suggested above.
Pictures speak a thousand words!
4) Change the external 25450-P4V-003 filter (fourth indicator).
Another good time for a picture!
5) Replace drain bolt, find the fill bolt & start the FIRST of THREE successive total ATF changes.
Drive the car through the gears, during each ATF change interval, trying not to get stranded.
Mentally gauge if there is a difference?
Rinse and repeat the other two ATF changes.
Hopefully, the cumulative effect of all the 'hard work' above in cleaning the solenoids / screens; changing the external filter & the minimum 3X3 ATF changes will bring you enough joy so that a new transmission assembly will not be necessary.
Then either keep the car or put it up for sale, pronto.
At this time, if one wishes to add an aftermarket ATF additive, it is their choice.
(Personally, I would not. )
Finally, the object of the minimum 3X3 is to flush as much 'debris' out of the transmission and the remaining internal filter; 25420-R36-003 of your 2008 TL transmission.
Don't over think the benefit of added 'friction' of leaving 'metal particles' inside with only one ATF change because the damage is possibly already done.
If my sequence of events is in error or there is anything anyone wants to add, I'm pretty sure they will.
time for one of favorite videos. Does your car make the sound heard in this video as well? if so, then your Torque converter may no longer be functioning properly and you won't be able to obtain the hydraulic pressures for any clean passageways or new fluid to really matter. further; damage may have been done and clutches worn completely if you drove it that way for any lengthy period of time.
I'm still surprised there are no check engine lights or OBD codes. have you tried using a code reader?
Sorry for the delay in getting this done. Been very busy. Thanks for all of the advice. I did exactly as Zeta recommended (drained old transmission fluid, cleaned all solenoid screens, changed the transmission fluid filter). However, I have only done one 3 qt drain and fill. I need to do 2 more. How many miles should I drive between drain and fills? I was able to drive for 6 miles/17 minutes, before it started slipping again. I believe that's an improvement, but I never kept track of the time and distance of travel before. What I stated above was an estimate. So my question is, is it possible that another two 3X3 drain and fills can possibly clear up the problem? Is it possible that enough of the bad oil is still in there that's causing the fluid to overheat, which is causing the tranny to slip?
If that's not possible, what else could it be? I'm attached vids and pics for your reference.
I also cleaned the 3 solenoid screens on the upper solenoid, but I forgot to take pictures of them. They were also quite clean, and did not need much cleaning. They looked exactly like the lower solenoid screen in the picture below after I cleaned them.
Video of me draining the old ATF that has not been changed since 2007 and over 100,000 miles ago
There are 7.6 quarts of fluid in the transmission and torque converter. Judging from the garbage built up on your plug there is a lot of contamination in your system. I would do the other drain and refills as you are only getting about 3 quarts at a time. I would drive it again (a mile or 2, shifting gears 1-5, especially 3rd-4th) and then change the fluid again. You are trying to get the crud loosened up and drained out. You will still have some in the system. If you get no further improvement in distance before slipping then the last chance before replacement is a power flush at a shop that has the equipment. Generally, if the slipping is in one gear only, specially 3rd gear it is time for a new TC and tranny.
is the torque converter (TC) functioning properly? no strange whiny sound? if the TC has failed, you won't get proper line or more importantly clutch pressure for any dependable operation.
is the torque converter (TC) functioning properly? no strange whiny sound? if the TC has failed, you won't get proper line or more importantly clutch pressure for any dependable operation.
No strange whiny sound. And it doesn’t start slipping until it heats up. About to complete my second drain and fill now.
I just drove around after the 2nd drain and fill, and it went farther. Instead of lasting 16 minutes of driving around the block, it lasted over 19 minutes. And instead of lasting for 6 miles, it lasted 7.7 miles. And I was driving and shifting the same way both times. Should I try a 3rd drain and fill? If so, can I do it right now after driving it for 7.7 miles and 19 minutes, or should I drive it more before I do the last drain and fill.? If I should drive it more before doing the last drain and fill, how much more should I drive it?
I called a good transmission place, and he said, based on what I told him, that it would be $5400 to rebuild the transmission. There’s no way I’m paying that. The car is not even worth that much. My goal is to fix it and then sell it. So I’m wondering, is it worth another $40 to do another drain and fill? Is it possible that would fix it, based on my results above? I know Legend2TL said it’s worth it to try it. I’d like to get a consensus on it from everyone. How far should I drive it to give it a chance for the new oil to take effect?
Also, I just bought Lucas Transmission Fix, which has over 6000 reviews on Amazon. Should I just add it to the oil now, since only 1.6 quarts of bad oil is left, or should I do the 3rd drain and fill before adding it?
Do you think the Lucas additive will possibly fix it?
I called a good transmission place, and he said, based on what I told him, that it would be $5400 to rebuild the transmission. There’s no way I’m paying that. The car is not even worth that much. My goal is to fix it and then sell it. So I’m wondering, is it worth another $40 to do another drain and fill? Is it possible that would fix it, based on my results above? I know Legend2TL said it’s worth it to try it. I’d like to get a consensus on it from everyone. How far should I drive it to give it a chance for the new oil to take effect?
Also, I just bought Lucas Transmission Fix, which has over 6000 reviews on Amazon. Should I just add it to the oil now, since only 1.6 quarts of bad oil is left, or should I do the 3rd drain and fill before adding it?
Do you think the Lucas additive will possibly fix it?
Based on the color of the fluid and the material on the plug, I'd say your trans is shot.
I agree with thoiboi.
Because the fluid is mixed it is not as simple as I have 1.6quarts left. To get it all out would take many more changes. If you still are slipping it is probably shot. I would have a power flush done instead of a drain and refill.. At that point it is either the tranny or TC. As you know both are expensive if you can't do a rebuild yourself. The option left after that is read the big transmission thread and consider swapping in an AV6 transmission. You are not going to get much for an older car with a bad tranny.
Thanks, guys. I just did the 3rd drain and fill, and I included 32oz of Lucas Transmission fix in the 3 quarts. Fluid drained was fairly clear, and there were no particles on the magnet of the drain plug.
I was able to drive it for 30 min and 11 miles, but it did start slipping again after that. I drove it again this morning, and I was able to drive it for 30 min and 10.4 miles until it started slipping. So the tranny is apparently shot. How much is an AV6 swap, and is there a mechanic in the CT area whom you would recommend?
As Thoiboi posted read the thread, yes it is long, but after you go through it you will have the idea what it takes to do this. Can't help you in CT as I am in CA. Maybe someone in CT will post. My condolences on your loss.
Thanks, Jon. This TL is actually from CA. I bought it out there when I was living out there, and then I drove it cross country. It served me well for almost 17 years. Any idea how much an AV6 swap would be, on average, including labor?
Originally Posted by Jon M
As Thoiboi posted read the thread, yes it is long, but after you go through it you will have the idea what it takes to do this. Can't help you in CT as I am in CA. Maybe someone in CT will post. My condolences on your loss.
Thanks, Jon. This TL is actually from CA. I bought it out there when I was living out there, and then I drove it cross country. It served me well for almost 17 years. Any idea how much an AV6 swap would be, on average, including labor?
I think I paid a total of $1700 to have mine swapped in at the time. That's the total of me buying and ordering the transmission from car-part to the shop, and the labor they charged me combined.
If you can bring the car down to Nashville where I'm at, I'll do it for you on the cheap. But alas, that's a pretty far drive.
I think I paid a total of $1700 to have mine swapped in at the time. That's the total of me buying and ordering the transmission from car-part to the shop, and the labor they charged me combined.
If you can bring the car down to Nashville where I'm at, I'll do it for you on the cheap. But alas, that's a pretty far drive.
Thanks for the info, and thanks for the offer. I can only drive it 10 miles at a time, and then I have to wait an hour for it to cool down. So it would take forever to drive down there. Plus, I’m not even sure it would make it all the way down with this transmission. Where did you buy the parts for it? If it was a website, which website?
Thanks for the info, and thanks for the offer. I can only drive it 10 miles at a time, and then I have to wait an hour for it to cool down. So it would take forever to drive down there. Plus, I’m not even sure it would make it all the way down with this transmission. Where did you buy the parts for it? If it was a website, which website?
You'd probably spend the same amount, if not more, paying for a tow truck to bring it down here versus a shop nearby doing it for you lol. Also, if anyone else is reading this thread and is in TN or near Nashville and needs this swap done, feel free to message me. Gotta get business where I can, y'know lol.
'Car-part.com'. Not the site with an 's' after part. Most places will only ship to an actual shop, and not your house. So prepare for that. My AV6 transmission I bought with 160k miles on it. Red line it almost every day, and it had 0 issues. So I can confidently say that they are reliable. Currently sitting in my other CL that I converted to an automatic. Trying to sell it, but need to swap over the VSA Yaw sensor still to get rid of that stupid VSA light.
You'd probably spend the same amount, if not more, paying for a tow truck to bring it down here versus a shop nearby doing it for you lol. Also, if anyone else is reading this thread and is in TN or near Nashville and needs this swap done, feel free to message me. Gotta get business where I can, y'know lol.
'Car-part.com'. Not the site with an 's' after part. Most places will only ship to an actual shop, and not your house. So prepare for that. My AV6 transmission I bought with 160k miles on it. Red line it almost every day, and it had 0 issues. So I can confidently say that they are reliable. Currently sitting in my other CL that I converted to an automatic. Trying to sell it, but need to swap over the VSA Yaw sensor still to get rid of that stupid VSA light.
Yes, the cost for towing it would be huge. Lol Thanks for the website address. Some transmissions listed state they have 0 miles on it. What does that mean? Newly rebuilt?
If I remember correctly it is either rebuilt (they usually say that in the description) or it is unknown. If you are considering doing the swap make sure you read that thread. You need to make sure you replace your TC with a new one or that the AV6 comes with one. The drive plate must matchup to the TC (there was apparently 2 different ones that could have been used). As far as your specific question to me concerning cost. I have no idea. When mine went I rebuilt the tranny with the help of a friend. Replaced the TC along with a few other parts. Found the internal tranny filter was partially clogged and a bad gear where the race was damaged. Also, the 3rd gear pack was not getting fluid al through the area. Used a mod kit to increase fluid flow. Parts cost me about $600-$700, including a brand new TC. The labor was a friend and myself.
If I remember correctly it is either rebuilt (they usually say that in the description) or it is unknown. If you are considering doing the swap make sure you read that thread. You need to make sure you replace your TC with a new one or that the AV6 comes with one. The drive plate must matchup to the TC (there was apparently 2 different ones that could have been used). As far as your specific question to me concerning cost. I have no idea. When mine went I rebuilt the tranny with the help of a friend. Replaced the TC along with a few other parts. Found the internal tranny filter was partially clogged and a bad gear where the race was damaged. Also, the 3rd gear pack was not getting fluid al through the area. Used a mod kit to increase fluid flow. Parts cost me about $600-$700, including a brand new TC. The labor was a friend and myself.
OK. Thanks for the info.
I wanted to give you guys an update. Today I just drove around again, and I was able to go 15 miles, driving for 40 min. Any thoughts on why I was able to drive 50% more miles? Is the transmission getting better from the Lucas Transmission Fix? How far do I have to drive for the Lucas Fix to fully do its thing?
I drove it again last night, and I was only able to go 10 miles, driving for 27 minutes, before the tranny slipped. So I’ll take that as confirmation that it’s something physically wrong with the tranny that Lucas cannot fix.
Another issue is the foot well on the driver’s side is wet. So there must be some leak somewhere. I’ve seen condensation on the inside of the windshield before, but when I washed the car a few days ago, I did not see any leak around the windshield on the inside. And when I look around the windshield from the outside, I don’t see any place where there might be a leak. What do you think is causing this?
What do you think would be a fair price for this TL if I sold it as is?
161,415 miles on it
Here are the issues with it: Faded paint, scuffs and dents on exterior, driver's seat has small tear right above the right shoulder of the driver, transmission needs rebuilding or replacing, SRS light is on, rear brake pads need replacing and rotors need turning, foot well on driver’s side gets wet when it rains, and low beam headlights don’t work
Wait wait wait.. going back to the original post, this was a 2008 TL transmission? are you sure? Those things are supposed to be super stout.. how did it die already
11-06-2023, 03:21 AM
Take a picture, post it in this thread. 
to your transmission
