Someone said that bleeding the brake lines of air or something would tighten up the pedal. Anyone know how to do this? Or if it's not this what can I do to fix my REALLY mushy brake?

------------------
Y2K Satin Silver/Ebony 3.2TL
AEM Short ram w/ custom CAI conversion | Magnaflow axle-back exhaust | Neuspeed Sport springs(modified: 3.5"F/3"R drop) | BOSCH platinum+4 spark plugs | Acura OE Wing | Mesh grill and bumper | Acura Indiglo Emblem | Mugen badging | Body color door handles | Polarg M12 sidemarkers | Opti-Blue Xenon HB's | Hiper Strobes F/R | 20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint | Razo RA42 Shiftknob | Alloy pedals | Blue neon exterior lighting | Rockford 10" RFP2410 Punch XLC subs | Boss Audio CLR60 600watt 4ch. amp | Escort Passport 7500 Radar/Laser detector

 

This sounds like you have air in the line. First off, the air had to get there someway -- I would check for any fluid leaks around the calipers and all of the connections/hoses/lines before anything. It may be pointless to bleed the brakes if air is going to get in the system again. If you do bleed the brakes, get a buddy -- it's a two man job (like some girls I know)

First, fill the master cylinder up all the way. Then start at the right-rear brake and find the bleeder valve (on the caliper). You need a closed wrench for this. Break the bleeder valve, but DO nOT open it all the way. Now get your buddy to pump the brake pedal a good 3 to 5 times. On the last pump, have your buddy yell to you when he is AT THE TOP of the last pump -- you open the valve then, right before he pumps the pedal to the floor. Have him hold the pedal down all the way until you snug the valve down. Repeat until you see and HEAR nothing but fluid coming out of the valve. Watch out because the fluid will shoot out pretty good. Once you are satisfies, snug down the valve (but not crazy tight!)

Then move to the rear-left, front-right, and finally front-left, doing the above for each. Make sure your master cylinder does not go dry while doing this, because you will lose fluid each time your let the fluid flow. Check it periodically.

I hope this helps, but like I said earlier, the air got in there somehow and will probably get in there again. How old is the car and have you had brake work done before. I hope your pads/rotors are not so worn down that you have to push the pedal that much. Good luck -- did I miss anything here? Any odd things to look out for? I haven't had to bleed my brakes yet, but have done it on many vehicles. I assume bleeding the brakes is essentially the same here.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by Polyman on March 28, 2001 @ ]</font>

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by Polyman on March 28, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

If you have not done anything to your TL this is the normal feel of the brakes.
I had to get use to the feeling. My 94 AccordEX with ABS had a harder brake pedal feel. The TL has a softer pedal feel.

------------------
2000 3.2TL Nighthawk Black/Ebony/Navigation/ Optional Factory Chrome Multi Spoke 16" Wheels/Factory Underbody Kit/Factory Spoiler/Moonroof Visor/Factory 6-CD Changer/Trunk Mat/Factory Black Wheel Well Trim/Clifford IG8000 Alarm System w/add-ons/%51 Tint/Weathertech Floormats /Michelin Arcctic Alpin Winter Tires on Stock Wheels/Factory Car Cover/Factory Gold Emblems Grille & Exhaust Tips

 

Two ways to address this issue, assuming it's not air in the lines. The TL has pretty soft brakes normally, though, which is a "luxury" feature designed in part to mask the pulsation of the ABS.

1- Install firmer brake pads. They compress when you brake, and firmer pads will do this less. Try Metal master pads, or similar racing-style pads. They will leave more dust and squeal more, though.

2- Install steel brake lines. This is where the TL has soft brakes on purpose. The OEM lines expand with the fluid pressure, and thus absorb ABS vibrations. Steel lines will fix this, and I reccomend this mod. Just get it done at a reputable shop, 'cause you want your brakes to be 100%!

------------------
'01 White Diamond Pearl 3.2TL
-Wing, tint, wood and Whistler

 

Exactly what Gomez said..... I plan on doing that late spring, gonna get slotted rotors, high performance pads and stainless steel brake lines...my brakes suck when they get warmed up too much!
Ed

------------------
Acura-TL.com - Forum Moderator

'99 TL Satin Silver/Ebony, Non/Nav, Comptech lowered, Comptech Air Filter Element, Inspire Tails, AEM Brake Pads all around, Comptech Axle Back Exhaust, "Guy Smiley" doll on the dash as my Co-driver...
= ------------------&gt;
Pics of my TL
Pics of my Miata! Wadya think?

 

Bleding brakes with four-wheel discs is lot easier than mentioned above. Simply open the bleeder valve and allow gravity to pull the fluid out bringing with it any trapped air. As soon as you see a soild dripping, close the bleeder vave and move to another caliper. Becaise the TL uses a split system (rr and lf on one circuit and rf and lr on the other, bleed the two pairs before bleeding the other pair.

 

I don't believe this will work. Air is lighter than brake fluid and collects at high points in brakeline, caliper etc. You might get a few drips of fluid but no air. Further, air will replace the fluid that drips out and make matters worse. The proper way to bleed brakes is as described by polyman with one exception. You don't open the bleed screw "just before " the last pump. You pump the pedal several times and hold pressure on the pedal. Open the bleed screw and close it when the pedal almost reaches the floor. Then release the pedal and repeat until no air comes out.

An even better way is to put a piece of hose (tubing) on the bleed nipple and stick the other end into a clean jar of brake fluid. This way you can see the bubbles and are sure that no air goes back in. You can also do the job with one man because you can close the bleed screw after you release the brake pedal. There are also one man brake bleeding sets available at parts stores that have a small hand pump so you don't have to pump the pedals at all.

 

Yeah, that's what I was trying to get at (to no avail) -- defintely open the valve during the downward path of the pedal and NOT before the brake pedal is pushed (as I may have led on to) and close it basically when all of the fluid has stopped flowing out. That is a damn good idea of putting a hose on the valve! Never did that once -- I guess I just like to be a grease monkey!