jblaze600

I need to replace my rear 2whl disc brakes and rotors. Goodyear is trying to charge me like 600$ for everything, which is a rip off. I found the rotors online on ebay for a good price. What kind of brake pads should I get?

01tl4tl

stay away from ebay rotor- proven not worth the time to replace again in a year
Get some kragen types if on a budget. They have raybestos and they work fine for regular driving
Its a 1.5- 2 hour job to do the rears- you have to adjust the park brake shoes inside the rotor hub as part of the time.
Not a tough DIY with a few basic tools
goodyear is as bad as the dealer in pricing, go to a local private owner honda/acura import car shop.

jblaze600

Thanks dawg for the advice, do u know the website to check out the kragens?

acutee

kragen dot com

jblaze600

What should I go with the Kragen, EBC, Brembro rear rotors? I"m kinda on a budget but don't mind paying for good rear rotors. Thank ya'll

SodaLuvr

Centric Premium rotors (part # 120.40047) are very good for the money. They are better than the premium Raybestos rotors that Kragen sells, and they often cost much less.

RockAuto sells them for $23.79/each, which is less than what Fast Undercar and Rotorwork charges. I would get the Centric 105 series Ceramic pad (part # 105.05360) from RockAuto as well. All together, it's $72.37 + $15.05 S/H to your location.

This should be a great combo for your budget.

01tl4tl

Soda knows about parts like this- go with his advice
The stores will usually price match its online site
The rear brakes only do 30 percent of the braking force, so no need to get extravagent with them for a normal street driver,
DO invest in great front brakes when you do them.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

If you're looking for more than the just an OE replacement check out ROTORA's slotted or drilled and slotted rotors. I would upgrade the fronts at the same time of the rears so you don't have slotted rears and plain fronts. Some just do the front and not the rear, but usually not the other way around. Combine that with a good set of pads and you will see a significant difference.

https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/rotora-slotted-drilled-slotted-rotors-special-cl-tl-tsx-324531/

jblaze600

u guys are shiznit thanks for the advice

FuriousSam

I am in need of changing out my rear rotors as well and although the ROTORA's rotors looks awesome, I just changed my front rotors last year (got from the dealer) so the next time I need that changed, I'll get it.

How good are the Centric Premium rotors? How long do they normally last compared to the stock ones? Please advise.

Thanks,

-- Sam

SodaLuvr

I just know that Zeckhausen Racing, which is a very respected company with many racing crowds, highly recommends Centric products for daily drivers.

I also know that many of the local mechanics here in town have switched from Bendix and Raybestos to Centric products, and claim that they are of much better quality. They claimed that they have had far fewer comebacks with Centric products.

I personally haven't used the Centric products, but I trust the mechanics that I know, and I think these products must be a lot better than your whitebox Chinese parts. The rotors do appear to be of a decent quality, as they are the only ones that I know of that go through the extra expense of painting the rotor hats and putting on some coating for rust prevention. The price is definitely hard to beat.

01tl4tl

Centric- a partner company of StopTech if I read correctly
Hard to go wrong there~

Gfaze

Raybestos "Advanced Technology" line also does that. They also paint the outer edge of the rotors. I installed the front rotors on my car and they have been great so far.

SodaLuvr

Centric owns StopTech.

FuriousSam

Thank you Soda, ordering them now.

jblaze600

Me too, good advice soda, thanks

SodaLuvr

No problem.

Be sure to purchase some Permatex synthetic caliper grease or CRC synthetic caliper grease from your local parts store. They usually have single use packs available at the counter for a few bucks. Do not use any disc brake quiet for any reason. That stuff can cause the shim from the brake pad to separate.

Scrub the inside of the caliper (don't damage the seal though) until it does not have any dirt, grime or dust on it. Take the caliper mounting bracket, and remove both pad abutment clips. Scrub the bracket too, and wipe it clean with brake cleaner. You want the bracket to be "surgically clean," this is very important for reducing noise. Lube both sides of the pad abutment clips (and the brake pad shim as well) with the caliper grease. This should help keep everything quiet. Be sure to bed-in the pads as well.

SodaLuvr

Did you get them from Kragen?

Gfaze

Yes I did. They're slowly being introduced. The PG Plus/VSM series is being phased out. As stock in the warehouses dwindles, they are being replenished with the new Advanced Technology line. Same goes for the Raybestos Quiet Stops and Super Stop brake pads.

Anotherguy831

I need to change my rotors too and Im debating between changing out all four for the rotora's or maybe centric's slotted on all four. Would anyone here be able to tell me if there is a big differenance between the two? I work at auto parts store and we carry the centrics so I'm familiar with those but just recently bought my tl-p and just doing a full brake job cuz the old owner didn't take too much care of it

SodaLuvr

Centric's Premium rotors are already pretty good, so I'd save your money and go with the Centric rotors since you can get them at a discounted price. Instead, put your money toward the pads. Your pad choice can make a huge difference in braking performance.

ChrisQ1980

With a quote of $600, you should be allowed to call the cops and have them arrested on spot.

$87.42 shipped seems much better. Invite a friend or two over and get the job done. After that you will never have to rely on a shop to do brakes for you again.

Puneater

how much will all this cost?

SodaLuvr

The Centric rotors and pads for the rear? Under $100 shipped.

FuriousSam

I ordered it Sunday night and it came today FedEx Ground. Quick shipping, the product looks great, I highly recommend them!

Thanks again Soda!

SodaLuvr

No problem, post some pictures when you do the brake job for everyone to see!

TLS101

What Pads would you recommend...?

acitydweller

i'd go with stock parts personally...

I've never had warped rotors like many here on AZ so I cant relate. I managed to upgrade the front calipers to dual piston ones and the stock brakes have never been better...

SodaLuvr

Depends what you are looking for. OEM (or equivalent) tends to be a good balance between performance, noise, dust and durability. If you want more performance for instance, you will have to give up some in the noise, dust and durability departments. It's a matter of what trade-offs you are willing to accept.

TLS101

How about EBC Green and your recommended rotor?

mmmmmbarb

iTrader: (1)

I got my fronts done a few months ago with some rotora slotted and the RB et300 pads after my brakes have been squeaking.

My rears are still squeaking... I think I overheated them (any comment?), so I need to replace them soon. With your advice I think I'll go with the centrics and the ET300s for the rears. Good pad and rotor combo?

SodaLuvr

No experience with EBC Green. I've heard of people having problems with EBC green an uneven material transfer over on the BMW forums though. It creates a fake "warped rotor" effect.

SodaLuvr

01tl4tl should know more about the ET300s. I'm not sure what kind of pad it is.

indoMFP

Okay, I am in the same boat as I have to get new brake pads. A few questions:
1. Can the OEM rotors (that are on the vehicle now) be machined/resurfaced? I ask due i need new pads, but can I use the old rotors...
2. I am thinking of getting the Centric Front and Rear Brake Discs (parts numbers 120.40046 - front and 120.40047 - rear). Is this right???
3. I need pads also, Soda was recommending the Centric Ceramic pad as well. The part number for the rear is listed above. What pad would you recommend for the front?



I saw this and thought this was a good deal. But my question for this setup is:
1. Is this a little over the top for a vehicle that is only being driven in a commuter application?
2. What kind of pads would one run with this setup?


Is there a major difference in the above two mentioned setups? I am not trying to be cheap, but more economical and don't want to waste money on a products are not going to be used to their full potential..... and to the original thread starter, sorry for the hijack, brotha...

SodaLuvr

1. If the fronts are already warped, then you are better off purchasing new rotors. If they aren't already warped, they'll probably warp soon. The rears can be resurfaced for about $10/each at your local Pep Boys. The last TL rear brake job I did, the rear rotors barely had any wear on them. You should have enough material left to resurface.

2. Yes, those are the correct numbers.

3. Centric 105 series for the front and the rear should be fine. These are just your OE style replacement pads. They will offer NO performance advantage over the OE pads. They are just less expensive, possibly lower dust (no guarantees), and work just as well.

indoMFP

Thanks for the info. I think I am going to go ahead and get just the pads... I don't think the rotors will warp if new pads are installed and they resurfaced.... am I wrong?

01tl4tl

you are wrong
They warp easily anyway and once thinned down more, are less able to shed heat, thus more prone to warping. Many people confuse uneven pad material transfer or buildup as rotor warp. Always do a pad rebed if you know the pads are thick enough but making noises or have a shake on braking.
Caliper lubing at contact and motion points is crucial to a quiet brake system

The RB brand ET300 pads are similar the hawk HPS in intention of use-
the designation 300 means 30 percent track day style useage and 70 percent normal human
the ET500- 50/50
the 300 work very well on my 01TL, more progressive feel with increased pressure effort than the HPS, a bit less dust (and I wax the rims now) and quieter- though I never thought the hawks were noisy until I went to the ET300
They will work with any rotors- they work best with the RB rotors. They were designed to stand up to the material hardenss level of the RB rotor, other pads were not lasting like they should.

Note to all rear brake pad changers- check the back of the new pads for a middle/3rd tab, on the inner pad back, if there- remove with grinder-hawksaw whatever
It is for RSX, not TL CL or TSX- interferes by hitting caliper piston and cocks pad for uneven wear and less surface contact

Note2- rear rotors are cheap- why bother resurfacing them - they are thin already!

indoMFP

Yo, fair enough... I think I am going to go with the Centric setup as I don't think the Rotora setup is cost effective and practical for my style of driving... thanks for the help guys...

SodaLuvr

I would resurface the rears, not the fronts.

The last rear brake job I did on a TL, the rears had virtually zero wear after 70k +. The rear rotors almost never warp so you'd be safe with resurfacing them.

01tl4tl

I like new parts~ the wear may not be visable but the rear brakes have still been heat cycled many many times in 70 to 100k miles. For me, if I am going to the parts store to resurface the rotors, I can buy new ones for slightly more (unless there has been a dramatic preice increase) and be on my way--so thats the way I go.
I also use my brakes in a different way than most- and my fun run is a trip into Yosemite- for those that understand braking needs on a climb to 5000 feet thru the twisties.