hey guys
ok I am embarrassed to say this because I pride myself on maintenance and keeping up with my car. I do nearly everything myself also - EXCEPT 1 thing. I have never changed my brake fluid...I bought the car with 55k miles on it so I dont know about the 1st owner but I have 184000 miles now with the same stuff in there.

Now I know that you are "supposed" to change it because it can absorb water, lower the boiling point and causing issues stopping - but I have had 0 issues and the pedal feel is still very solid. So I guess I am confused if I should get it flushed out at this point or if by doing so it my cause more issues with other components - by dislodging some built up gunk basically.

if anyone has any real knowledge please let me know because I want to keep the car for another 2 or 3 years but want it to remain safe. if I should just get it flushed and new brake lines put on (costing extra) then I will need to wait another month or 2. but if it is ok to flush it and move on then I may go ahead and do it when I put on my new pads and rotors in a week or so. I guess I can inspect everything when I put the new pads on also but I dont really know what to look for. I figure if something is wrong it will be pretty obvious.

thanks for any help

 

dont flush it, drain it.

then put a new bottle of dot 3!

there is nothing to get "dislodged"

 

^"Drain" probably not the best word. I think I know what you meant though.

OP, I think you should be fine to replace the fluid. Just don't let the reservoir go too low, it'll introduce air into the system.

You're pretty OG, I'm sure you know where all the DIY and information can be found. Good luck!

 

^i'm not myself today, why isnt "drain" the correct term?

you open one of the brake lines and it all drains out.
then you pump the brake pedal and it will push the remaining fluid out of the open brake line.

Never use a machine to "Flush"

then bolt up the brake line, and fill reservoir. proceed to bleed brakes. adding brake fluid to the reservoir

 

ok cool deal that is what I figured just wanted to throw it out there. I will add that to the DYI when I replace the pads/rotors.

 

well of course I got another story from a local Honda/Acura place that replaced my timing belt. He says by leaving it in so long there most likely is sediment/rust and other issues in the system that have settled. so by bleeding it, every time the petal goes to the floor the master cylinder could scrape around in all the gunk and cause it to fail prematurely.

so his recommendation was to not mess with it because it may cause more harm than good. and that is why it is best to replace it every 3 years at least

 

justn--go back and read the diy directions again!!!
NEVER follow what he just said!!!!!!

flush is the correct word- to replace all the existing fluid with new DOT 4 spec
(3 is old spec, 4 covers it and better- most bottles say spec 3/4)
Buy 2 qts, takes 1-1.5 for a good job

you partially empty the master cyl res with a turkey baster
DONT UNCOVER WHERE THE BRAKE LINES ENTER AT THE BOTTEM SIDE
add new fluid slowly- it will sit on top of old

starting at driver front, use either the 2 man pump and hold method- build pressure with 4-5 pumps and hold pedal down, open bleeder, helper keeps pushing on pedal and fluid comes out-
close bleeder-repeat until all new fluid comes out, then several times more to get stuff out of hidden corners...refill master cyl and move to next caliper

it is CRITICAL the pedal never go to the floor,, or you damage the master cyl rod seal

noobs: place a 2x4 under brake pedal arm -limit its travel to 3/4 of the way to floor-
just like in normal braking,,so helper cant hurt the system

special TL bleed/flush order is LF RF RR LR and no other
a machine powered flush is FINE for the TL,,its the trans we dont mess with like that.
brake fluid is not an issue
suction, pressure or manual methods all work to the same end result

Do it BEFORE the brake pad job, so when you push the caliper piston in- it doesnt backwash old fluid around and cause problems
get new fluid in first and solve it before it happens~
Ck lines for cracking, never hurt to replace, but get SS if doing that,,improves pedal and pressure fade from heat expanding the hose

You only think your pedal feels good now
wait till its done right!

 

ooops. sorry if i mis-info'd.

 

that guy is a lazy liar
its important to do now because of the crud!
it wont hurt the master cyl--the crud is in the caliper and will get pushed out when flushed as described above

Left in any longer - caliper seal will get torn and fail , requires replace both sides caliper and probably master by then too = big money for the tech
Or do it now and keep up with it
3 years MAX, 1 year preferred between changes

 

if that tech allows the pedal to reach the floor
RUN far from there and find a place that specializes in brakes for correct info
they will laugh at the idea of doing it manually in 2011
machines are for that job,,tech opens bleeder and lets fluid out

 

ok thanks 01 - he probably just didnt want to run the risk of them doing it and maybe causing an issue with the MC. but like you say if it can be done correctly (keep the pedal off the floor) then it should be fine. I wonder if I should get some extra fluid so I can keep pushing new though the system to clean it out better? Or heck I may just pay the $80ish or whatever it costs and get it flushed at a brake place to be done with it.

I love working on the car myself but now free time is harder to come by so some things are worth paying for

 

based on its age- I would let a brake specialty shop with a vacuum machine
do the job IF you were a non DIYr
Make sure they understand it may have OE 10 year old fluid in it- so it gets a good flushing
not just till the first signs of clean fluid,,keep going until the entire line and calipers worth of fluid has been pushed thru and out

BUT
you plan to DIY the brake job- this adds 5 minutes per caliper to the job

Get 2 qts DOT4, and a hand operated vac pump/brake bleeder at harbor freight tools or sears $25
then you can 1 man the job- see for yourself what comes out and when its done
(clear clean fluid-no bubbles) at that caliper--refill master and move to next one
if you run the res down 2-3 times to the low mark, refill and continue flushing,
that will do all that wheel to your best abilty