Is there a good one out? Yes I've done a search. What size is the bleeder screw? I'm about to go buy a wrench, since all I have are sockets.

Also, I bought one of those vacuum bleeders from autozone. Im a little discouraged. I gave it a good several pumps with the hoses firmly attached to the bleeder screw. When I loosen the bleeder screw slightly, I see bubbles galore. What am I doing wrong?

The manual says to remove the screw, clean it, and put teflon tape on it before starting. How the hell do you remove it without getting brake fluid everywhere?? Arrggggg.

 

the bleeder screw is 10MM. if you look in the DIY thread there is a brake DIY that has the bleed order in there. who cares if you lose some fluid. drain the old stuff and replace it with new stuff.

 

Thanks. 2 major questions remain.
1. Where IS this DIY?

2. Why am I getting tons of bubbles when I barely release the bleed screw? My brakes don't have pedal travel issues.

 

because you need to open the bleeder first- use an adapter if the hose doesnt fit perfect tight
then apply vacuum by pumping the handle a few times
Should be a center plastic bottle device with fluid in it- to catch the fluid and bubbles coming out of the caliper

Since its a pressure system little fluid flows out when pedal not being pressed- just gravity fed
BUT
Never heard of needing t-tape on the bleeder screws, and would not use it-

In the brake DIYs should also be instructions for bleeding/flushing the system
The only differance is bleeding infers you expect air bubbles,
while flushing is just getting all the old fluid out and new fluid in

 

NOTE:
Teflon tape is a `once on` useage- if you take apart a fitting or even loosen one with teflon (white) tape on it, you must remove all traces of the first attempt and redo

thats why those directrions are suspect
In normal use:
1 and a half times around the threads -wrapped so its going the same direction as tightening will go- is all you need- not 5 times around!

 

bleed order is very important- LF =driver front, then clockwise around the car
LF RF RR LR
Get 2 qts brake fluid- should take 1 to 1.5 for a complete job and all fresh fluid

Keep going after it looks new- lots of fluid hiding in the ABS control box

 

Never heard of putting teflon tape on bleeder screws either. My vac. bleeder came with sealing grease to put around the top of the container, where it screws onto the lid. Maybe you have a leak because it's not sealed.

 

The air bubbles are more than likely coming from air being sucked in past the bleeder threads. The teflon tape is to minimize this leakage and allow the vacuum pump to work more effectively. I've seen grease or anti-sieze used in a similar manner. Don't worry about the bubbles, the air travels down the threads and out the bleeder without entering the caliper.

 

I was having no luck with the harbor freight vac, until I watched a speed tv show and learned to open the bleeder THEN apply vac- dededeee

and use the rubber connector onto the bleeder nipple for max seal if possible, they must include them for a reason

Its simple once you know how~

 

The air bubbles may also be whats trapped in the bleeder hose. It may take a little bit to get them expelled.

 

I used teflon tape on things for decades and NEVER do you apply it- tighten then release,,, at all-
let alone tighten and release a number of times!!
By then its just a wad of mess

 

 

some special grease on the oring of the center fluid container is a good plan, thats how you create suction- no leaks! and that bottle catches the fluid and bubbles, you empty it between calipers,,sometimes more than once per caliper...mine holds 4 oz fluid

the nipple is only opened 1/8-1/4 turn max- should not be any issue with fluid trying to get out thru the threads - fluid looks for the `path of least resistance`- so the bleeder opeing is that

 

Thank you guys very much for all your input. I know its not rocket science but I just don't want to introduce any air into my otherwise perfect feeling brake system.

So I undo the screw, and THEN pump up the vacuum? I'm doin this one man, so at any point do I need to tap the brakes then? (just flushin the old fluid, not really tryin to expel any air)

Sorry if I'm overcomplicating this. I really do have a decent amount of DIY experience believe it or not.

 

yes- you have it now!-

put the whole rig together- catch bottle -tubes in and out, and vac pump,
Use Clean NEW brake fluid from a `sealed container`, not an already open bottle of fluid.

place tube onto bleeder nipple- some find it better to use a closed end wrench to protect the nipple edges from damage, so place the wrench on- then the clear tubing on the bleeder.
A special brake bleeder wrench is under 10$ at parts stores- maybe less for one with only 10mm on it- made special to grip the part, but a 10mm wrench will do

Open it just barely- I go about 1/4 turn then bring it back to 1/8, so I can make a fast close when I want
Then apply some suction, should only take a few pumps and fluid will flow into the catch bottle between the caliper and the vac device- some fluid needs to be in it to start, to cover the end of the entry tube from the caliper
Once the fluid is clean- close the bleeder and release any vac- remove hose and replace cover on bleeder
No use of brake pedal required at any time

You DO have to watch the level in the catch, and in the master cyl res
Dont let the master run dry or you introduce air!!

Before you start- use a turkey baster- $2 at grocery stores everywhere, to remove MOST --but not all-- of the old fluid from the master cyl res
Dont want to uncover the ports to the lines.
Pour new fluid in slowly to fill master - avoid making bubbles-new fluid will sit on top of old. Do NOT shake bottle of new brake fluid
Replace caps fully on both master cyl (seals system) and the new fluid bottle (prevent spills) (trust me on those)

The TL cap has a tricky `latched feel` on the master cap- where it goes tight then loose-thats locked, get familiar with it before starting as you will be doing it several times.

WARNING DANGER!!!
Spilled-dripped-sprayed or otherwise distributed Brake Fluid (new or old)
EATS car paint-
protect under the master cyl with shop towels or rags you can toss out. Carefully refill the master as needed, (use a clean funnel or carefully hand freepour)
sometimes have to refill it twice on each caliper- if really bad fluid-
One full master worth gets it pretty good flush per caliper on standard brakes- brembos hold more so ..., but do it more for an excellent job.

There are clearly marked min and max lines on the white plastic master cyl res

Pushing extra fluid clean fluid thru after you think its all done wont hurt a thing,
once you open a bottle of fluid you may as well use all of it!
Cant keep brake fluid once opened for more than 6 months- it goes bad - wiki hygroscopic for info on why flushing brake fluid EVERY YEAR is a smart plan

 

You are the man. I will tackle this tomorrow when I change my friend's tranny fluid. I think you have given me enough detail for me to not worry anymore. Much appreciated.

 

You always have your friend if you need to go manual on the thing!
Remember its LF=driver front, then clockwise around the car from overhead or driver view
LF RF RR LR
Wont hurt to go all the way around twice
The front wheels may need to come off for better access to the bleeder, and turn the wheel so its easy to reach.
On the rears you can usually get in with a short wrench and leave the wheel on

When you are done with a session of vacuuming, tighten the bleeder -then release the vac pressure
Be prepared for drips from the hose when moving - keep those rags handy
Carb cleaner gets the slippery off concrete

 

You can watch some youtube video on how to bleed your brake
Sometime better see it done.

 

after the poor instructon for seafoam vids on utube- I dont trust much until I view it myself- so not able to suggest a good one at this point

 

Hey 01tl4tl, I'm planning on purchasing and using the vacuum bleeder kit from Harbor Freight for my brake flush. Is the following the one you purchased from Harbor Freight? It's item# 69328 "Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit" on their website. If so, did it work well for you? Thanks!

 

FWIW I purchased that bleeder this Spring to use on the TL but haven't gotten around to doing it yet. There's no reason it shouldn't work.

 

it works fine...pick the adapter to bleeder nipple, insert tubes as indicated
open valve, apply suction- out comes old fluid and trapped in the container

note: only holds 4 oz so you will empty and refill a few times during each caliper