yosarian

I need to replace the rotors on my TL with a pair of Brembos and Akibono ProAct pads. Can anyone recommend a reputable dealer who charges a fair price for normal wear and tear parts?

fsttyms1

tirerack, Excelerate our vendor (not sure if he carries brembo blanks)

drcookie

When I did my research, I found this web site:
http://www.autobarn.net/broerebrro.html

Not sure about the reputation but it has free shipping on order $150 and above.

Hope this helps.

russianDude

I ended up buying Akebono from rockauto.com because it was cheaper than on tirerack.com, but Brembo blanks from tirerack.com.
Also, rockauto has rear akebano pads, and tirerack does not.

01tl4tl

Here is a good link for info on proper tempering of the rotor and bedding of the pads
to obtain max performance and minimum noise- thanks to Excelerate for finding this

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

how do u like the Akebono Proact and the Brembo blanks so far?

yosarian

A funny thing happened on the way to working on my front brakes. I was discussing the job with my mechanic when he pointed out that passenger side rear caliper had much more wear on the pad then the drivers side. It seems I have a frozen caliper. And this frozen caliper has been wearin down the pad AND dragging down my mpg. I now I have to do the backs first- pads, calipers and rotors. I decided screw this, I might as well do all four at once.

So he and I looked the price for parts, both retail and wholesale. He discovered he could me front brembo rotors, akibono calipers with ProACT pads for $300 (wholesale.) He was going to have to call around for rear pads and calipers, because two of his sources were out of stock. And we found a set of ATE rear slotted rotors on tirerack for $25/each.

So this Saturday, it's me, my TL and my wrenches.

01tl4tl

calipers can be found at autozone for a good price
Rear rotors- slots are for looks- they rears only do 30% of the braking-
use slotted fronts when you can~

This is a good example of why proper brake inspections need to be part of normal maitenance you do yourself- trust no one!

The leading cause of caliper faulure is moisure in the brake fluid rust and gets into the little rubber orings in the caliper- = siezed

Flush brake fluid annually- I use Valvoline Synthetic DOT4 in my TL -so do many here
if you bought a car used- do a brake fluid change right away!!
Tell your mechanic the bleed order is LF= driver front, LF RF RR LR
its wierd but true!

yosarian

Well, I was looking for Brembo or Mountain solids for both front and rear, but I couldn't find Mountains in stock and my mechanic got me a great deal on Brembo rotors, rebuilt Akibono calipers and ProAct pads. I am not a big fan of slotted or cross drilled. I have had both and they don't do it for me. I guess part of it is the fact I can't have them turned. But for rear slotted rotors by a name brand that he said was excellent at $25 a pop, when they are done, I toss them with no regrets.

For parts, I don't go to a wash and wax shop for parts. Been burned too many times. I picked up some of the normal stuff - cleaner, PB blaster, etc. and got into a good convo with one of the kids there. But I could not beat the wholesale prices I was getting. I guess when you go to a guy for ten years and throw a bunch of work his way, it pays off.

My problem is that the sliders on the rear right froze and now they are dragging on the rotor, causing my gas mileage to go into the crapper. Driving around today I could hear the pads getting worn down to the nubs. Scrape, scrape, scrape.

I bought the car used in December and I am now having the system flushed once I am finished with the brakes. At his suggestion, I am using ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid. For $12, and higher boiling points is nice, especially the way I drive.

I also got a copy of the TL manual from Helm. Or I should say manuals. I was thinking "Man, I better get something substantial for my money." Holy cow. Well written, documented, easy to follow. They are going to help out alot on Saturday (low 80s and sunny in the DC area. Perfect weather for spending 4 to 6 hours working on the car. I am taking it slow on purpose, since I haven't done brakes in a while.)

My total cost is > then $800, including the flush, for new brakes all the way around. If I bought all the parts myself and brought to him to do the work (which I have done on cars in the past) he would charge me $600 for upwards 4 hours, flush cost included.

Now I have to start saving for 17" TSX OEM rims and Yokohama Avid V4S tires.

I plan on documenting the entire thing as a DIY. Wish me luck this weekend.
Wish me luck this weekend.