chris03tl

Going to need a new timing belt in my TL shortly. Ive found a local shop I trust to do the work and they are willing to let me bring my own parts.

What kit should I look for? Is all OEM still the best to go with? I know Ive seen references to other brands (Gates, Asin(?), etc). Just want to be sure I get the best quality I can because it will probably be the only time this gets done on this car. I also wasnt sure if mixing and matching components might get better results (i.e. aftermarket tensioners if the Honda ones tend to die early, etc)

Thanks in advance.

-Chris

victus1

Aisin TKH001. It comes complete with the 5 oem parts you need to replace. I installed this kit 6 months ago. I also changed the 2 accessory belts and serpentine tensioner while at it.

cheekoo

search this forum for " WholesalePartsGuy" he was selling kits for cheaper... i got mine from him

chris03tl

Saw that a while ago, PM-ed him. Thanks.

3.2TLc

Yeah, make sure that you get all the other misc parts, while you're in there, it's only a matter of the parts expense.....not much more work effort at the time it's torn apart.

As Victus1 suggested, do the accessory drive belts and hoses while they're already off !
Maybe even a new Honda T-stat for good luck ! Adjust valves, clean intake, new plugs, ......ya know ya don't want bothered for another couple of years, so do the PM now !

chris03tl

T-stat, hoses and coolant replaced over the summer (i know the coolant needs to be drained as part of timing belt, but the car was tending to run hot so I had to resolve that right away).

New plugs shortly after. Did the Seafoam thing through the intake (right before changing the plugs), but havent pulled the intake to clean it (and the EGR) out. Havent adjusted valves yet either....probably due, not sure if I want to do it myself or not.

I think the drive belt tensioner is making noise, so Ill be having that replaced at the same time. Other than that, both drive belts, timing belt tensioner and pulleys (regardless of condition), water pump and timing belt. Ill get the cam and crank seals just to be sure but if there is no evidence of leak they wont be replaced.

Gabru678

iTrader: (1)

Do any of our vendors have anything like this?
I feel like buying from them as they support our little community here

Yikes

As to my understanding, your valves don't really need adjusting unless they're being noisey.

01tl4tl

thats incorrect--noisy to the human ear and noisy to a mechanics stethoscope are two different things..
all that really matters is distance measured at adjuster to arm at the valve

we have a very tight clearance engine..tight valve to piston clearance in normal operating conditions..without factoring in carbon buildup on piston top and intake valve edges
Having the valves on spec is critical to max mpg and power-smoothness etc
at 105 they are supposed to be `inspected and adjust as needed`
should read: `slide the feeler gauge in the space - is it correct? great! move to the next one
Is it off .002 thats enough! adjust that one--its needed~

remember the full egr passage cleaning of intake manifold and TB/IACV cleaning while its off for access to valve covers
Helps to lube inside throttle/cruise control cables too
replace PCV as maitenance $8

Yes some of our sponsors do have a package deal listed in `the black market`--`sponsored sales` threads,,or look at Vendor list link at top of pages--next to log out box
wholesalepartsguy is one dealer with approx 350$ 105kit parts special,,will adjust included parts to your needs,,cam seals addtl as they dont often need them based on their shops average..
do get new valve cover gaskets, tb spacer gaskets (2)

the ashi kit noted by another ziner is RUMORED- I have no proof only what I read from a ziner=,,to be the actual oe part maker and part,,without the price markup of the big A on the outside of the box

iirc there were pics of the removed and new and they looked the same

01tl4tl

good idea to seafoam the oil with 1/2 can, then change it before the service/valve adjustments
that way everything in that system is spotless, camshafts clean etc
makes for a more accurate adjustment
smart to vac port or fuel tank method a week before the service
get the other parts clean and ready!

careface

Another vote for the AISIN kit. Just had the Tbelt, Valve Adjustment and Motor Mounts replaced this summer. Tech really liked the kit, said he was putting parts that were same/similar to what was coming off. I recommend Goodyear Gatorback belts as well since they have to come off. RockAuto has the kit, belts and gaskets you need. You could also go OEM for your gaskets as well. And do recommend the valve adjustment. My intakes were within spec but exhaust were all out. Recommend NGK Iridium IX plugs if you havent done that yet as well. I like seafoam through vacuum port behind the TB. I only use Chevron Techron in my gas as a fuel system cleaner. Has been working great so far. ( I believe the side mount also has to be moved/unbolted while doing the T-belt, might as well get a new one if it is being moved. Again I recommend OE mounts. Had a terrible experience with aftermarket mounts. )

careface

Here are a couple of shots from under my valve cover during adjustment. This is at 98K miles.

chris03tl

Wow, that is a good looking 98K mile old engine!!! From what I can see through the oil opening in mine its a little varnished, but nothing to complain about.

Ive done the seafoam thru the TB thing, replaced spark plugs over the summer. Ill start doing a regular techron application. The car only gets 91 or 93 octane.

The AISIN kit looks nice, I might hit up RockAuto for the parts in that case, then I can get good belts at the same time. Can find the AISIN kit on Ebay too, not sure how the price compares though.

careface

Rockauto > Fleabay ! If you google , there are usually 5% off coupons floating around on the internet for Rockauto as well. Have you replaced your PCV valve yet ? If not , replace it, then use a quality conventional oil in 5w30 weight flavour with .75 Qts of Marvel Mystery Oil. Should take care of your varnish right up ( replacing the PCV will be the biggest help, MMO will help clean what is already there ). Dont run this mix for more than 3k miles and check for oil level regularly as sometimes MMO will burn off. MMO thins oil out, hence the thicker oil weight recommendation. I have been using primarily Valvoline fluids in my vehicle to great effect. Current fill however is Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 with a Purolator PL14459 filter. Valvoline Maxlife is another oil which keeps things pretty neat and tidy. Techron is currently on sale at Advanced Auto Parts , 2 x 20 oz treatment bottles for $ 13.99 ( regular price is $12.99/ea ). Another excellent fuel system cleaner is Redline SI-1.

victus1

The best price you can get on the 5 oem parts for the timing belt service is from the Aisin kit. And the price of this kit varies too.....so you will have to search for the best price. I got mine from ebay for $210 last year.

chris03tl

Changed the PCV valve over the summer. Just changed the oil yesterday, went with 5w-20 Quaker State full synth (doesnt seem to be too bad an oil, especially for the price).

Next oil change Ill pick up some 5w-30 of something and mix in a little MMO. Then Ill go back to Pennzoil Plat for the car. Its kind of our "beater" car at this point (has the most miles on it), but I guess there is no harm in buying some better oil for it.

Will need a timing belt change around the same time as next oil change so maybe Ill just give the shop all the oil stuff too and let them do it. Never a fan of that though, the few times I had the dealer change the oil I needed to stab the filter with a screwdriver to remove it!

careface

thats why you get either a filter socket or a filter strap ! No mess that way ( well , no more than usual when removing oil filter) . QSUD is a good oil , its Pennzoil's step brother, both are made by Shell. I would use it without worries. Has a good antiwear additive pack. Pennzoil Platinum is more geared towards cleaning. Ive also heard that Pennzoil Ultra is EXCELLENT at cleaning varnish , something to do with extreme polarity of its base stock oils which helps it remove varnish to adhere to metal.

After you are done with your 3k dino oil change interval after timing belt replacement, use Ultra instead to provide the finishing touches to the cleaning job. After that you can switch to QSUD and run 5k~7.5K intervals without any issues. PP in my engine is still extremely clean on the dipstick after 1000 miles of city driving.

chris03tl

I had one of those metal strap wrenches and broke it. I had a filter socket but it wasnt quite the right size.

Considering I never tighten filters down that much I just stabbed the darn thing. That was the last time I let the dealer touch the car and Ive never had a problem since (I just hand tighten the filter and never have any leaks)

Are you supposed to run dino after a timing belt replacement? News to me, I didnt think it would matter much. I use Ultra in my G, unfortunately its the one oil that never seems to be on sale! Walmart is the best deal Ive found for it, $28 for the 5 quart jug

careface

Nah , technically our cars dont call for anything more than Dino. I was recommending dino for your run with MMO to clean varnish. Since it would be a short 3k run, you dont have to waste money running synthetic. I recommend Pennzoil Yellow Bottle or Valvoline Premium Conventional 5w30 + some MMO.

If you have the VQ in your G ( if I am thinking about the same car as you ) then I highly recommend M1 0w40 , GC 0w30 or Rotella T6.

chris03tl

Yeah I have the VQ37HR

I plan on switching to 0w-40 but only after the car is out of warranty. The engine is known for being hard on oil, and if it ever came down to a warranty issue with the engine I dont want Nissan/Infiniti to have any leg to stand on in regards to the oil I put in.

Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30 and a new PureOne oil filter at each change. I drive the car so little I hit 3 months long before 3750 miles (Ive tried to stretch it to 6 months and STILL dont hit 3750 miles). Just changed it last night, in fact.

careface

For much little you are driving the G37 , I highly recommend that you switch to a conventional with a Purolator Classic filter. Ultra + P1 filter for less than 3750 is an absolute waste. You wont notice any additional wear on your engine when your oil change interval is so short. The VQ is hard on oil, its the timing chain beating it up. I have seen excellent UOA on Valvoline White Bottle holding up well to the beating over a short oil change interval. That would be the way to go.

Valvoline Conventional 5w30 + Purolator Classic is all you need. Save that extra money for gas to have some more fun in that car ;-)

After your warranty expires, Shell Rotella T6 5w40 is another excellent priced alternative to M1 0w40. Of course all this is mute if Infiniti requires full syn but I dont believe they do.

chris03tl

Yeah, Ive always wondered if I should just go with a cheaper oil. The thing that makes me question it is how dino (or any cheaper synth) will hold up against condensation/acidizing since I drive the car so little. Wear-wise at the rate I drive it I bet anything would work just fine, its once I park it and it sits for days at a time that I wonder if synth is a better choice.

Infiniti doesnt require full synth. Their "ester oil" turned out to be pretty much crap, dino oil + an ester additive pack thats not even as good as whats standard in most decent synth oils.

If I could extend the OCI I think the synth would be well worth it, but while its under warranty I dont really wanna play around.

But the car is definitely fun! My only regret is getting AWD....means I cant have sideways fun in the winter. But from a dead stop the thing just tosses you back in the seat and goes.

careface

VQ is a really clean running engine. You will be fine as long as its a good dino. I recommend VWB because historically have seem to do really well with short trips, fuel dilution and shearing. NAPA has their synthetic on sale for $3.79 a qt if you'd rather stick to syn oil. Same as Valvoline Synpower and is made by Ashland, Valvoline's parent company. $18.95 vs $27.98 for 5 qts of oil. I'd stock up if I were you.

chris03tl

Actually the first oil change I did in the G was to Valvoline Synpower. Didnt know the NAPA stuff was the same. I my just go and stock up, since I never have Pennzoil Ultra on hand anyway.

Thanks for the heads up!

careface

No problem. Glad I could help. Its a good oil and has been getting good reviews over at bobistheoilguy forums. There is a phenomenal UOA of M1 0w40 in a VQ engine in their UOA section with 5000 miles on the run btw, might wanna check it out.

sl33kTL

OEM OEM OEM! FTW!!

Hondapartsunlimited.com

careface

Lol, have you seen the Aisin THK001 kit ?? Comes with the exact same belt and bearings that the car comes oe with. And must less expensive, especially at places like Rockauto. Comes with a well built Water Pump, gasket, tensioner, bearings and a belt.

jedc

Just had mine done with the Aisan kit from RockAuto. My mechanic is an ex-Honda employee who was very impressed with the kit. He claimed it was the same as OEM just as I've heard on here. No reason to pay anymore than this.

bob441

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...tion-_-General
I bought this one because I am in a hurry to see if it the water pump making it run hot REAL fast or I wait and get the gates on amazon??

victus1

You never start by replacing the water pump to diagnose an overheat condition. There are more basic things to check first that are prone to failure/problems....proper coolant level, burping air, thermostat, rad cap, clogged rad, fan(s) not working, hoses, leaks, etc....
And I would only stick with OEM components for timing belt + water pump....not dayco or others.

bob441

ok how do you burp the cars?

bob441

It is full of coolant , and it gets hot really fast like 2 minutes, and is not pumping coolant at all or building any pressure

Skirmich

^ Your water pump is probably toasted (Fins wear out, Bearing Seized) In any case don't drive the car anymore or you will fuck something up.

bob441

thanks I quit driving it when it ran hot and I ordered the gates timing belt kit from amazon

3.2TLc

Yeah, if ya gotta tear it apart....do it right from the git go !!!
Hopefully ya checked all the other causes of overheating and are sure that it's the pump.

Gabru678

iTrader: (1)

Is there any reason to do the PCV valve replacement during the Timing Belt Service?

Or can it not be done at any other time because of some reason?

And as for adjusting the valves, I am just not seeing any difference between the top and bottom pics, am I missing something?
I want to do that during the service but just dont know what I should be looking for.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I think the PCV can be done at any point...
I could be wrong though.

I have this on the agenda very soon too.

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

You can do the PCV any time it plugs into the rear valve cover

bob441

Ok I have a 1999 I am putting a water pump in AND a 2002 I am changing the motor in any pics need to be taken??? I will have 2 cars pulled apart over the next 3 days i have some good pics of a wrecked 1999 I am parting (SOON)

http://s268.photobucket.com/user/rmc...20tl%20wrecked

TLer trash

This is also typical with a stuck closed thermostat. I agree with victus on this one, in that you should have done a little diagnosis first. I'm assuming you were due time wise for the timing belt. I'd put in a new thermostat (oe only) just so you don't have to find out you did the t/belt and pump for no reason. I think oe is the only way to go on the pcv as well.