Adjusting valves
05-23-2009, 01:48 PM
#3
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
Pain in the ass to do!! Will be changing water pump/timing belt and associated parts,valve adjustment,replace rear main seal,oil pressure switch,fix the overheating problem,one upper ball joint and last but not least polish and wax!!!
Now people will tell me that's too much money to put in a 10 year car but it sure beats a new car's 5 year payments!!Mine will be as good as new with all this and 130k KMs..
Now people will tell me that's too much money to put in a 10 year car but it sure beats a new car's 5 year payments!!Mine will be as good as new with all this and 130k KMs..
05-23-2009, 07:48 PM
#4
you are way overdue for the timing belt etc-10 years?!
and the valve adjust is a pain in removing parts- but many are the same as for the timing belt
spend a few loons on a GO-NO GO feeler guage- its the easy way to know if the clearance is set right or not
Read the diy a few times and take lots of digital pics as you remove parts, put bolts in marked bags or marked seperate boxes
Plan on a full weekend- its a full day plus most people are not used to bending over the fender working for several hours straight so break it into 2
and the valve adjust is a pain in removing parts- but many are the same as for the timing belt
spend a few loons on a GO-NO GO feeler guage- its the easy way to know if the clearance is set right or not
Read the diy a few times and take lots of digital pics as you remove parts, put bolts in marked bags or marked seperate boxes
Plan on a full weekend- its a full day plus most people are not used to bending over the fender working for several hours straight so break it into 2
05-23-2009, 07:53 PM
#5
what overheating problem??- has it EVER hit redline or close to it?
or has it been running hot for a while,,,
In that case, before you do anything, run a compression test and depending on its results- a cylinder leakdown test
Often when these cars are overheated even once- 6 months later a head gasket blows
Not a big deal to fix if you do it before other bad things happen- time consuming yes!-
so make sure it appears to be holding solid then proceed
If it needs a head gasket- when you have everything else off- its an easy job to pull - have checked for warpage and cleaned of gasket- yadayda you're done
or has it been running hot for a while,,,
In that case, before you do anything, run a compression test and depending on its results- a cylinder leakdown test
Often when these cars are overheated even once- 6 months later a head gasket blows
Not a big deal to fix if you do it before other bad things happen- time consuming yes!-
so make sure it appears to be holding solid then proceed
If it needs a head gasket- when you have everything else off- its an easy job to pull - have checked for warpage and cleaned of gasket- yadayda you're done
05-23-2009, 10:14 PM
#6
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
what overheating problem??- has it EVER hit redline or close to it?
or has it been running hot for a while,,,
In that case, before you do anything, run a compression test and depending on its results- a cylinder leakdown test
Often when these cars are overheated even once- 6 months later a head gasket blows
Not a big deal to fix if you do it before other bad things happen- time consuming yes!-
so make sure it appears to be holding solid then proceed
If it needs a head gasket- when you have everything else off- its an easy job to pull - have checked for warpage and cleaned of gasket- yadayda you're done
or has it been running hot for a while,,,
In that case, before you do anything, run a compression test and depending on its results- a cylinder leakdown test
Often when these cars are overheated even once- 6 months later a head gasket blows
Not a big deal to fix if you do it before other bad things happen- time consuming yes!-
so make sure it appears to be holding solid then proceed
If it needs a head gasket- when you have everything else off- its an easy job to pull - have checked for warpage and cleaned of gasket- yadayda you're done
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05-24-2009, 12:18 AM
#8
no, lets not jump to extra work- I was only trying to educate on a possible worst case scenario
you should find out exactly why its run hot
is it a radiator prob- water pump leak etc--if it got close but not redlined you should be ok-
check the coolant and oil to make sure they are staying seperate
a compression test will verify all cyls are equal and good- then proceed with the timing belt-water pump yada job
you should find out exactly why its run hot
is it a radiator prob- water pump leak etc--if it got close but not redlined you should be ok-
check the coolant and oil to make sure they are staying seperate
a compression test will verify all cyls are equal and good- then proceed with the timing belt-water pump yada job
05-24-2009, 05:41 AM
#9
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
no, lets not jump to extra work- I was only trying to educate on a possible worst case scenario
you should find out exactly why its run hot
is it a radiator prob- water pump leak etc--if it got close but not redlined you should be ok-
check the coolant and oil to make sure they are staying seperate
a compression test will verify all cyls are equal and good- then proceed with the timing belt-water pump yada job
you should find out exactly why its run hot
is it a radiator prob- water pump leak etc--if it got close but not redlined you should be ok-
check the coolant and oil to make sure they are staying seperate
a compression test will verify all cyls are equal and good- then proceed with the timing belt-water pump yada job
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/overheating-again-726447/
05-24-2009, 11:51 AM
#10
did you ever bleed the air out after t-stat change thread?
In other thread you had done it wrong- as in NOT per the book!!
Cant do things how you want-- when they differ from Acuras method in the owner book.
Do it that way- with cap removed or on-open as directed for each step- takes about 15-20 minutes for all the fan on and off cycles -refilling- etc etc to be done right
MAKE SURE to open the heater core by turning it to full hot- with key on- so it does open- air gets stuck in there
Then do the pressure testing of radiator-cooling system
Blown head gasket does not always make white smoke, that you can see
Do a few basic checks before the water pump timing belt work-
make sure nothing got hurt during the numerous heat cycle problems!!
Did you use a Honda genuine thermostat from the dealer? the TL is very picky about that too- aftermarket brands have their own problmens- go to honda and buy one
Install it and see how the problem is
Are you losing coolant or oil- or one of them is now overfull?
In other thread you had done it wrong- as in NOT per the book!!
Cant do things how you want-- when they differ from Acuras method in the owner book.
Do it that way- with cap removed or on-open as directed for each step- takes about 15-20 minutes for all the fan on and off cycles -refilling- etc etc to be done right
MAKE SURE to open the heater core by turning it to full hot- with key on- so it does open- air gets stuck in there
Then do the pressure testing of radiator-cooling system
Blown head gasket does not always make white smoke, that you can see
Do a few basic checks before the water pump timing belt work-
make sure nothing got hurt during the numerous heat cycle problems!!
Did you use a Honda genuine thermostat from the dealer? the TL is very picky about that too- aftermarket brands have their own problmens- go to honda and buy one
Install it and see how the problem is
Are you losing coolant or oil- or one of them is now overfull?
05-24-2009, 12:38 PM
#11
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
did you ever bleed the air out after t-stat change thread?
In other thread you had done it wrong- as in NOT per the book!!
Cant do things how you want-- when they differ from Acuras method in the owner book.
Do it that way- with cap removed or on-open as directed for each step- takes about 15-20 minutes for all the fan on and off cycles -refilling- etc etc to be done right
MAKE SURE to open the heater core by turning it to full hot- with key on- so it does open- air gets stuck in there
Then do the pressure testing of radiator-cooling system
Blown head gasket does not always make white smoke, that you can see
Do a few basic checks before the water pump timing belt work-
make sure nothing got hurt during the numerous heat cycle problems!!
Did you use a Honda genuine thermostat from the dealer? the TL is very picky about that too- aftermarket brands have their own problmens- go to honda and buy one
Install it and see how the problem is
Are you losing coolant or oil- or one of them is now overfull?
In other thread you had done it wrong- as in NOT per the book!!
Cant do things how you want-- when they differ from Acuras method in the owner book.
Do it that way- with cap removed or on-open as directed for each step- takes about 15-20 minutes for all the fan on and off cycles -refilling- etc etc to be done right
MAKE SURE to open the heater core by turning it to full hot- with key on- so it does open- air gets stuck in there
Then do the pressure testing of radiator-cooling system
Blown head gasket does not always make white smoke, that you can see
Do a few basic checks before the water pump timing belt work-
make sure nothing got hurt during the numerous heat cycle problems!!
Did you use a Honda genuine thermostat from the dealer? the TL is very picky about that too- aftermarket brands have their own problmens- go to honda and buy one
Install it and see how the problem is
Are you losing coolant or oil- or one of them is now overfull?
05-24-2009, 02:49 PM
#12
which switch do you mean?
You can use a $2 pocket thermometer to see what temp its running at idle, or the temp sensor may be faulty or the fan temp sensor.. to make fan operate, may have quit
You replaced/did all that work after it began overheating or before?
Any change?
Is the driver side fan coming on and off as its supposed to?
and the passenger side fan comes on with the ac?
The water pump is suspect based on years-miles
Look for stain on the bottem of it from the weep hole
You can use a $2 pocket thermometer to see what temp its running at idle, or the temp sensor may be faulty or the fan temp sensor.. to make fan operate, may have quit
You replaced/did all that work after it began overheating or before?
Any change?
Is the driver side fan coming on and off as its supposed to?
and the passenger side fan comes on with the ac?
The water pump is suspect based on years-miles
Look for stain on the bottem of it from the weep hole
05-24-2009, 02:50 PM
#13
was the radiator flushed out inside when you took it off the car?, or taken apart and cleaned by a shop?
or just washed the bugs off it?
or just washed the bugs off it?
05-24-2009, 08:12 PM
#14
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
which switch do you mean?
You can use a $2 pocket thermometer to see what temp its running at idle, or the temp sensor may be faulty or the fan temp sensor.. to make fan operate, may have quit
You replaced/did all that work after it began overheating or before?
Any change?
Is the driver side fan coming on and off as its supposed to?
and the passenger side fan comes on with the ac?
The water pump is suspect based on years-miles
Look for stain on the bottem of it from the weep hole
You can use a $2 pocket thermometer to see what temp its running at idle, or the temp sensor may be faulty or the fan temp sensor.. to make fan operate, may have quit
You replaced/did all that work after it began overheating or before?
Any change?
Is the driver side fan coming on and off as its supposed to?
and the passenger side fan comes on with the ac?
The water pump is suspect based on years-miles
Look for stain on the bottem of it from the weep hole
Why did the the temp gauge drop all the way down and after 5 mins or so it went back up to normal temp??
05-25-2009, 12:00 AM
#15
does the driver side fan work by itself???-
just sitting at idle for a while it should cycle
Thats the primary fan and must be working right- its sensor on the bottem of the radiator is a known failure part
Has it been loosing coolant?
just sitting at idle for a while it should cycle
Thats the primary fan and must be working right- its sensor on the bottem of the radiator is a known failure part
Has it been loosing coolant?
05-25-2009, 02:51 PM
#18
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
After my drive back from work i checked to see if the fan was working. With the a/c on,they both work but when i turn off the a/c,the driver side fan does not go on.I drove with my car for 15 mins and when i came home i waited for another 5 mins but the fan never came on.I guess the fan switch needs to be replaced. Is it under the rad on the 00 TL?
05-25-2009, 03:22 PM
#19
thats not enough test-- both should run with ac-
the test is to let it sit parked running once its warm- till the driver fan comes on and runs then turns off
Should take a few to several minutes depending on air temp, but it will come on and off
If it doesnt, then look at the fan sensor- most years are lower passenger side radiator
the test is to let it sit parked running once its warm- till the driver fan comes on and runs then turns off
Should take a few to several minutes depending on air temp, but it will come on and off
If it doesnt, then look at the fan sensor- most years are lower passenger side radiator
05-25-2009, 03:33 PM
#20
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
thats not enough test-- both should run with ac-
the test is to let it sit parked running once its warm- till the driver fan comes on and runs then turns off
Should take a few to several minutes depending on air temp, but it will come on and off
If it doesnt, then look at the fan sensor- most years are lower passenger side radiator
the test is to let it sit parked running once its warm- till the driver fan comes on and runs then turns off
Should take a few to several minutes depending on air temp, but it will come on and off
If it doesnt, then look at the fan sensor- most years are lower passenger side radiator
05-25-2009, 07:31 PM
#24
1st,, you said you sat a few minutes and it didnt come on
I am asking that you let it run 10-15 minutes as if you were stopped in traffic
The temp will rise a click more towards 1/2- the fan should come on
You can hold 2000 rpm also- that will heat things up fast and kick the fan on
There HAS to be a fan temp sensor somehwere
Otherwise how does the whole thing even work--its temp based?!!
It works with the ac but we need to know if the other system that turns it on and off is working
PM kris- iirc he has an 00
Where does the guage run most of the time- just a click or 2 under 1/2 ?
thats where it should be
If your water pump is really on the last days it could be turning slower- check the t-belt condition if you can-
see if it looks burnt as a belt sliding across a slow pulley would do
Did you say they cleaned the inside of the radiator while it was removed?
I am asking that you let it run 10-15 minutes as if you were stopped in traffic
The temp will rise a click more towards 1/2- the fan should come on
You can hold 2000 rpm also- that will heat things up fast and kick the fan on
There HAS to be a fan temp sensor somehwere
Otherwise how does the whole thing even work--its temp based?!!
It works with the ac but we need to know if the other system that turns it on and off is working
PM kris- iirc he has an 00
Where does the guage run most of the time- just a click or 2 under 1/2 ?
thats where it should be
If your water pump is really on the last days it could be turning slower- check the t-belt condition if you can-
see if it looks burnt as a belt sliding across a slow pulley would do
Did you say they cleaned the inside of the radiator while it was removed?
05-25-2009, 07:31 PM
#25
oooooooooooooh canadian car- all bets are off on how they built those cars 
05-25-2009, 07:35 PM
#26
who at the dealer- the PARTS dept said there is no sensor??
never trust a service writer or even manager to really know every detail of these cars
We spend more time obsessing over them than a typical acura employee has time to
They are making big money working on/servicing gen4 cars now-
and overrevved-blown up gen3 motors and trans
never trust a service writer or even manager to really know every detail of these cars
We spend more time obsessing over them than a typical acura employee has time to
They are making big money working on/servicing gen4 cars now-
and overrevved-blown up gen3 motors and trans
05-25-2009, 08:16 PM
#27
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
1st,, you said you sat a few minutes and it didnt come on
I am asking that you let it run 10-15 minutes as if you were stopped in traffic
The temp will rise a click more towards 1/2- the fan should come on
You can hold 2000 rpm also- that will heat things up fast and kick the fan on
There HAS to be a fan temp sensor somehwere
Otherwise how does the whole thing even work--its temp based?!!
It works with the ac but we need to know if the other system that turns it on and off is working
PM kris- iirc he has an 00
Where does the guage run most of the time- just a click or 2 under 1/2 ?
thats where it should be
If your water pump is really on the last days it could be turning slower- check the t-belt condition if you can-
see if it looks burnt as a belt sliding across a slow pulley would do
Did you say they cleaned the inside of the radiator while it was removed?
I am asking that you let it run 10-15 minutes as if you were stopped in traffic
The temp will rise a click more towards 1/2- the fan should come on
You can hold 2000 rpm also- that will heat things up fast and kick the fan on
There HAS to be a fan temp sensor somehwere
Otherwise how does the whole thing even work--its temp based?!!
It works with the ac but we need to know if the other system that turns it on and off is working
PM kris- iirc he has an 00
Where does the guage run most of the time- just a click or 2 under 1/2 ?
thats where it should be
If your water pump is really on the last days it could be turning slower- check the t-belt condition if you can-
see if it looks burnt as a belt sliding across a slow pulley would do
Did you say they cleaned the inside of the radiator while it was removed?
Now i need to find that fan temp sensor!!
Today it didn't overheat....
05-25-2009, 08:17 PM
#28
UB6IB9
Thread Starter
who at the dealer- the PARTS dept said there is no sensor??
never trust a service writer or even manager to really know every detail of these cars
We spend more time obsessing over them than a typical acura employee has time to
They are making big money working on/servicing gen4 cars now-
and overrevved-blown up gen3 motors and trans
never trust a service writer or even manager to really know every detail of these cars
We spend more time obsessing over them than a typical acura employee has time to
They are making big money working on/servicing gen4 cars now-
and overrevved-blown up gen3 motors and trans
05-25-2009, 10:14 PM
#29
who told you?
a trip to the dealer in person- the parts dept will show you a diagram
Or you can look online for the parts diagram
a trip to the dealer in person- the parts dept will show you a diagram
Or you can look online for the parts diagram
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